Boyd's Forest Dragon Question

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whytwolf

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Hoxton Park NSW (Sydney area)
Does anyone know where I can find a good care sheet on these little guys?
I'm thinking about maybe starting a collection :D Adding something new to go with my beardies. However, I want to read up on them first ..
Anyone has any good links or info on care/husbandry of ..let me know

PS: I've got 2 pairs of beardies gravid atm :D Hopefully by Jan give or take we'll have HEAPS of orange phase kids :D WOOHOO!!
 
Hi WW,
There are a lot of care sheets avail for angle head dragons, Boyd's care is very similar but they like it a bit warmer. They are totally different than beardeds to care for.
IMO they are also one of the best dragons in Australia and make a fantastic display.
Cheers
Ad
 
Thanks Ad : )

So they are an angle headed dragon - that's what i can look up their care/feeding under? I know they are totally different than beardies - a tropical-rainforesty little guy. I love how they look - they are like a tiny little alien dinosaur :D Quite expensive as well but that's understandable as I found out they only lay like 4 eggs at a time. I just want to read up on them and get a bit more educated on their care and setup and in a couple of months I'll start shopping around for a pair.
 
whytwolf said:
Thanks Ad : )

So they are an angle headed dragon - that's what i can look up their care/feeding under? I know they are totally different than beardies - a tropical-rainforesty little guy. I love how they look - they are like a tiny little alien dinosaur :D Quite expensive as well but that's understandable as I found out they only lay like 4 eggs at a time. I just want to read up on them and get a bit more educated on their care and setup and in a couple of months I'll start shopping around for a pair.

No they are not and their care is completly differant there have been some articals written about them in Australian Reptile mag aside from that speak to the breeder. They are not for beginer Herps.
 
Don't worry I'm not a beginner herp : ) Been looking after them for 5-6 years. Started with iguanas, moved to snakes, and then went to dragons as they are easier to look after. I'm just looking for specific info about these little guys - i've looked a bit on the net and found some info but not enough.....
 
No they are not and their care is completly differant
Can you please expand on this? In what ways do you see how thier care differs?
 
Guys don't argue :D Can anyone point me in a URL direction where I can find info in PDF format or give me a book title. I'm looking for specific care guidelines for this type of dragon.
 
INTRODUCTION
Found throughout North Queensland from Cooktown to Townsville is this rather moderately large lizard of the Agamid family.
Commonly referred to as "Boyds forest dragons", Hypsilurus boydii are a much sort after species within the hobby of herpetology.
Many are drawn to their rather unique looking appearance while many others prefer there easy housing requirements. I have heard many words used to describe this species but I feel the word "prehistoric" says it all, and you may find I use this word on several occasions within this article to describe my view on what I refer to as a "miniture Dinosaur" by appearance.
This species is diurnal & arboreal and is confined to areas of tropical rain forests within its range, where it is often found sitting vertically on small tree trunks (1 - 2m off ground level) waiting motionless to ambush prey that comes within striking distance.

SIZE
This animal reaches an average size of 150mm snout - vent.
Males may exceed this length reaching 160mm & females may be a little smaller reaching only 145mm.
These lizards have rather long tapering tails which are used to help balance & climbing.
Tail lengths average 200% the length of snout - vent length.

APPEARANCE
As suggested its appearance is very "prehistoric" looking due to its laterally compressed body with a large wedge shaped head It has angular canthus rostralis, a continual supraocal ridge, large yellow dewlap edged with enlarged spines, enlarged plates on the cheek, spines ontop of the nuchal crest and a dorsal crest with large pointed scales seperate from the nuchal crest. These lizards are generaly brown or grey above with some specimens displaying a green flush.

HOUSING
Enclosures should consist of adequate ground area as well as climbing space. A 6x3x3 would be suitable for 3 - 5 animals.
Decoration should be chosen to create a similar atmosphere as their natural enviornment, this means alot of plant life to give shaded cover and alot of climbing area. Sphagnum moss will keep humidity levels at the required range as well as make an eye appealing substrate.
Misting every other day will also help with this species regarding humidity and shedding.
A water bowl big enough for them to soak in should be added also.

LIGHTING
Lighting should be shaded to stimulate their natural enviornment.
cover by plant foilage will help in this instance as will shaded mesh cloth purchased from a nursery or garden centre.
UVA/B requirements are not as important as many other Agamid species however it should be provided for their best health.
To achieve this without over heating the animals a UV fluro light should be added or the animals placed outside in the shaded sun.

HEATING
This species generally dosn't thermo-regulate so no extra heat source is needed in captivity as room temps are usually sufficient.
Body temperatures are usually within a degree or 2 of the ambient temps.

DIET
This species will consume many food items in captivity. Most of which are easily purchased or cultivated.
crickets, woodies, roaches, meal worms, grasshoppers, silk worms, earth worms, ants, beetles etc.

BREEDING
The breeding season for this species is Oct - Feb. Mating is rather quick and occurs on the ground although initially they may be in the trees, males will bite the females necks to initiate mating and get them down to ground level ready to display further courtship behaviour. Courtship consists of males displaying themselves by inflating its yellow dewlap to impress females in the hopes of enticing a ready & willing recipient to mate. A laying medium such as moist soil, vermiculite, peat moss or sphagnum moss should be provided in a container at this time for the female to deposit her eggs. Clutch sizes of 1 - 5 have been reported and hatchlings measure 40 - 50mm. The laying process takes 30 minutes and in the wild the eggs are layed 10cm deep at the base of a tree and covered with soil, twigs and leaves. Both the male and female stay close to the eggs at this time and will defend the area from any intruders.

NOTE
Males will combat with rival competitors in a territory.
2 males will flare their dewlaps (similar to courtship behaviour) and will run on there back legs towards each other.
They don't make physical contact as 1 will break and run up a tree. The other will then follow chasing the rival up the tree top.
This will continue from tree to tree untill 1 leaves the territory. It is this reason that only 1 male be housed in captivity unless an extremely large enclosure can be provided.

INFO Taken from www.australiantropicalreptiles.com
 
You may find this site helpful....http://www.wildlife-australia.com/boyd's.htm

whytwolf said:
PS: I've got 2 pairs of beardies gravid atm :D Hopefully by Jan give or take we'll have HEAPS of orange phase kids :D WOOHOO!!
Congrats on the gravid beardies!

Judy www.herptrader.com.au
 
Thanks Trader and JandC - sorry for the late reply, I just was able to get on and check : )

Thanks for the HEAPS of info and the links to check. Thanks for the congrats on my babies that are coming Trader. As we speak she's digging frantically!!! Hopefully by end of week we'll have eggs incubating : )
 
Marc Furbank (AGAMIDAE) did an awesome article for the Reptiles Australia Magazine. I think it was the second or third issue in Volume 1

Simone.
 
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