DIY heat mat.

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to help out everyone trying to find places that sell the corflute....... it was "food grade" he said in the video it could be a clue to who to ring, my little suggestion is call any of the commercial refridgeration companies and see what they can do ;)
 
just picked up a big piece from a local sign shop.. for free. Asked if they had any offcuts =)
 
I'd still like to hear an electricians view on the long term potential risk, I know I'm being probably over cautious but we're talking about an electrically heated wire

I'm a sparky :) don't do it....
 
So what are the risks that you could see with cutting the end Snowman? And how are your trials going, any definitive answer that it works or fails?
 
Mine has been going strong for a couple of weeks now. Even got a little snakey enjoying her new heat source
 
Yeah it's on a thermostat set at 31. I was getting about 34-36 testing it without the thermo and that's just a 15W cord. I reckon the 5mm stuff sounds like it works better because the cord is in direct contact with it so it gets good heat transfer
 
If you use the 5mm coreflute is it possible to cut the plug off the heat cord and then put a new plug on it once it has been thread through? Correct me if I'm wrong but the first part of the heat cord only contains the power and does not produce the heat output, so it should be safe to reattach a plug assuming you know how to do it correctly? Has any one got feedback from using the 5mm coreflute?
Cheers Tim
 
So what are the risks that you could see with cutting the end Snowman? And how are your trials going, any definitive answer that it works or fails?

The risks are varied depending on the person stripping the insulation. Taking the insulation off is like taking the insulation off an extension cord. Electricity flows through the element on the heat cord which is just a higher resistance metal wire. No one should ever tamper with electrical equipment IMO.

My test's with 10mm coreflute went very well. I have a yearling BHP living with it right now. He has a shelf that is 410x410mm which is 35 degrees on top and 28 degrees underneath. He uses both the top and underneath the shelf for basking. I used a 50w cord as I needed something longer to cover a larger heat panel and I left some hanging out to make plugging in a bit easier. I have a pulse proportional thermostat controlling the heat cord, the probe is in a hole I drilled into the shelf. It's could possibly be used without a thermostat, but keeping the temps a bit lower saves electricity. Without a thermostat I recorded the top of the shelf to be 39 degrees in a room that was 22 degrees.
 
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Yeah.... That's what worries me.... "the risk is MINIMAL"
That infers that there is still a risk, however slight !
I just don't think it's worth the risk of removing the insulation so I can use smaller coreflute. I'll wait till I can find the 10mm size. I can't see the point of risking a snake ( or worse my house ) for the $ saving of going smaller coreflute and tampering with the heat cord, and I dare say you'd have no insurance if it was proved that the doctored cord was the cause.
 
If done correctly and used in the correct way, the risk is the same as using the wire normally. Which also has a risk involved

Well put.

That's fair enough though Jax. If you haven't played with electricity much it's scary and if there's a solution that allows you to not do do something you're not comfortable with you might as well take that instead
 
Let's just say I have a healthy respect for electricity and an awareness of the potential for disaster when a 'she'll be right' attitude is applied !

So no, I won't be modifying / trimming any electrical fittings or insulation
 
Let's just say I have a healthy respect for electricity and an awareness of the potential for disaster when a 'she'll be right' attitude is applied !

So no, I won't be modifying / trimming any electrical fittings or insulation

If you aren't comfortable with your knowledge and ability to make it safe I completely agree that you should stick with the method you are confident with.

The 'she'll be right' attitude is never smart with electricity
 
wouldn't the risks involved be significantly less by re-plugging rather than stripping the insulation? does the heat cord just contain 2 internal wires in order to make the circuit?
 
wouldn't the risks involved be significantly less by re-plugging rather than stripping the insulation? does the heat cord just contain 2 internal wires in order to make the circuit?
It has two different kinds of wire that run the whole length of the cord. One is the resistance wire which provides the necessary resistance to create the heat and the other just completes the circuit. It isn't like typical extension cable wiring. Also you don't strip it or do anything to the termination if you do it properly. I just removed enough of the thick part to make it about the same thickness as the rest of the cord. So re-plugging it would be a fair bit more complicated/risky
 
ok, that makes sense so does it heat by induction to the second wire or by resistance?
 
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