Here is some info on general keeping of carpets
Captive Care of Carpet Pythons
by Anthony Caponetto
Part I - Overview
This was written assuming that the reader has some basic knowledge of how to care for snakes in general. If you have kept a snake before, you will most likely have no problem understanding this paper, and the methods/techniques which I describe.
This paper by no means meant to be the ?final word? on keeping Carpet Pythons (Morelia spilota ssp.) in captivity, nor is it meant to sound as if my way is the only way to successfully maintain Carpet Pythons. Other keepers may use alternate methods, and those methods may work flawlessly, but this is what I?ve found to be most convenient, while keeping the animal?s best interests in mind. Everything you read herein is based on my personal experience. If you read something elsewhere that is different, it may work for you or it may not. That said, I have tried other methods of heating, housing, feeding, etc. Some of those methods have worked and some failed miserably. In this paper, I am only going to document what I genuinely believe works most efficiently.
Now let's talk about Carpet Pythons...
In my opinion, Carpet Pythons are one of the easiest and most undemanding species of snakes to care for. But, they are not always the best choice for a new snake owner. Although, most are very docile as adults, hatchlings are often times a bit nippy. That said, if the new snake owner doesn?t mind a couple of nips during the first few weeks, chances are that they will be much happier with a Carpet Python than they would with any other Python.
They are also an excellent animal for the intermediate to advanced snake keeper/hobbyist. Carpet Pythons used to be a fairly expensive snake, but have come down in price in the past five to ten years, probably due to their popularity among breeders. Now, being fairly inexpensive, while getting even more stunning to look at (thanks to selective captive breeding efforts), I expect that they will be seen more and more often in collections. I also look forward to several pattern and color ?morphs? becoming available in the near future.
Note: Throughout this paper, I will refer to Ball Pythons over and over again. I use the Ball Python as an example/reference for three reasons.
1. Ball Pythons are very commonly thought of as a perfect beginner snake (which I tend to disagree with).
2. I currently keep a colony of Ball Pythons, and have owned more Ball Pythons than any other snake. That said, I do know Ball Pythons quite well.
3. Carpet Pythons can be kept in the exact same manner as Ball Pythons?in fact, I keep my Carpets and Ball Pythons in the exact same setup, with the same temperatures, and at the same humidity.
Part II - Common Myths
Unfortunately, I happened to read a lot of what turned out to be false info when I got into Carpets, and I?ve found out by ?mistakes? over the years. A lot of the info on the internet has been floating around the hobby long before the internet became such a widespread tool for herpetoculturists. Although I do touch on some of these things throughout this paper, here are a few that I?d like to make as clear as possible BEFORE you read the rest of this paper.
Carpets need high humidity.
One time I forgot to do my regular ?hose down? of a Carpet Python cage one night during a shed cycle. I thought to myself ?I hope she didn?t try to shed last night, or I?m going to have soak her for hours. Well, the snake did shed that evening?and it was a perfect shed at that. That?s when I learned that constant 75% humidity during a shed cycle is not necessary for a good shed. Just temporarily (for just a few hours per day) raising humidity levels to 70% or so, during a shed cycle is sufficient. Except during the winter months, when the furnace is running, I very rarely mist the cages of my Carpet Pythons until they are going into shed. In fact, in my collection, I see far less shedding problems in Carpet Pythons than I do in Ball Pythons, which are both kept in identical cage setups.
Carpet Pythons are known to be aggressive.
Whenever I see someone selling a nippy yearling (or older) Carpet Python and they play off the snake?s bad temperament by saying that it has a ?Typical Carpet Python attitude,? it really makes me wonder how many Carpet Pythons they?ve really worked with, not to mention, how little they must have worked with that particular animal. Of all the Carpets I?ve worked with, I?d say 95% have been easily tamed down within a week, to the point of being as trustworthy as any Ball Python you?ll ever see. I must say that from my experience, Carpet Python tend to tolerate handling much better than Ball Pythons.
Hatchlings may or may not be nippy, but they are so tiny that their bites rarely even break the skin. As juveniles they tend to calm down and become very docile snakes. Some hatchlings may be puppy tame after the first couple of days that you handle them, while some may take as long as six months to a year to fully calm down. Most of the carpets that I have worked with have calmed down in less than a week of being in my care. Nippy hatchlings and juveniles do not necessarily have to be handled in order to calm down, but it can speed the process up. If you are willing to wait, most nippy Carpets will calm down with size and age without any effort on part of the owner.
If you are genuinely concerned about having a nippy snake, ask the breeder/dealer if the snake is nippy before you buy it?and make sure that you can trust them. If they tell you that it is nippy, keep looking until you find one that is not. That said, I have to say that 90% of them calm down within just a couple weeks of proper handling, but not always. No matter what anyone says, it really is possible to find a docile hatchling Carpet Python. However, finding a good looking and docile hatchling Carpet Python might be a bit of a chore.
Carpet Pythons are arboreal. Although Carpet Pythons can climb very well, and will make regular use of any branches or perches in their enclosure, it is not really a necessity, and they do just fine with nothing more than a hide box or two (I use long slabs of Cork Bark) and a water bowl.
Part III - Care and Maintenance
Day Time Temperature Gradient:
80-90F Ambient, 95-100F under the basking lamp or over heat source.
Night time Temperature Gradient:
75-80F - Any lower than 75 degrees at night may cause respiratory infections in some animals, although I?ve never seen problems with the cool end of the cage dipping into the low 70?s. I must stress however, that although I?ve never had trouble with them getting into the low 70?s or even high 60?s (power went out briefly one winter), it?s still a good idea to keep them no cooler than 75 F when they are not being cooled for breeding.
Humidity:
People sometimes like to make things more difficult than they are. It's been said that humidity should be kept at around 75-80%. Honestly, I don?t buy it, and I don?t think anyone could convince me that anything over 60% is even somewhat beneficial. Constantly high humidity just promotes bacterial and fungal growth?something I don?t think the animals would appreciate.
I?ve kept Jungle Carpets in screen top ten gallon fish tanks, with a heat pad underneath and a dome lamp on top (a terrible set up for keeping humidity). I never misted them until their eyes turned blue for shedding, and they always had perfect sheds. Those particular Jungles hit four feet in their first year, and fed better than any of my other snakes, so needless to say, they thrived in that ?low? humidity.
I personally, have had no problems in the winter with 40% humidity. In the winter, I mist the cage two or three times per week to temporarily raise it to 60-70% and they do just fine. In summer, spring, and fall, I rarely bother misting my Carpet Pythons? cages until I notice them starting to enter a shed cycle. Once I see their eyes go blue, I?ll mist their cage every day or every other day, and I always get perfect sheds from my carpets?always.
Diet
Feed one to two prey items per week. I sometimes wait ten days to two weeks in between feedings, depending on the size of the meal.
Hatchlings: Fuzzy or Hopper Mice ? (Pinkies have almost always been of no luck to me)
Juveniles: Weanling to Jumbo Adult Mice (or rats of appropriate size)
Adults: Appropriate sized rats preferred, but several mice will be fine.
Feeding:
Carpet Pythons are generally speaking, not problematic eaters, however hatchlings can sometimes be tricky to get started. A picky youngster is not always going to be picky forever. I?ve had Carpets that started out being terribly difficult to feed, and then growing to 4 feet by their first birthday.
Hatchlings
Hatchlings typically prefer a fuzzy mouse over a pinky, which is a relatively large first meal, but don?t worry?we aren?t talking about Corn Snakes here. These are Pythons, and they can handle relatively large meals.
Usually just an assist feeding is all that?s needed. Just poke the fuzzy mouse?s head into the snake?s mouth, hold for a few seconds and then set the snake back down in it?s cage. A lot of times, they will just sit there doing nothing for a few minutes, and then decide to eat the prey, as opposed to trying to spit it out.
On rare occasions a hatchling will completely refuse fuzzy mice, pinky rats, etc. which can make things difficult for the beginning hobbyist. This is why it?s important to make sure that the snake is eating rodents voluntarily before you buy it! In the event that your hatchling will not accept rodents, you may need to scent the prey item with a lizard in order to get it to accept food. Scenting a mouse, means to simply rub the head of the fuzzy mouse along the vent of the lizard. After a couple of feedings, you may try feeding the snake without scenting the mouse at which point you can take the lizard back to the pet store as opposed to killing it. Before you rush out the door to get a lizard, wait a while, as I?ve never once had to do this.
Young Carpet Pythons can also be picky about the method in which they are fed. Some of mine prefer live fuzzies dangled overhead on forceps, while others prefer pre-killed, while others have to be placed in a paper sack or cardboard box with the food item (pre-killed or non-weaned only), which I then place in the cage overnight. The latter seems to be easier when housing a pair in the same enclosure. Then again, a vast majority of Carpet Pythons will have no preference whatsoever, and will eat no matter what method you happen to use.
Shedding
I very rarely witness any of my Carpet Pythons experiencing difficulties in shedding. Typically, when I notice a Carpet Python entering a shed cycle, I will begin to mist the cage down every other evening. When their eyes actually go ?blue?, I will step the misting regimen up to almost every evening, until the snake has shed. If a Carpet Python does not shed completely, I soak them in very shallow, luke warm water for approximately 30-60 minutes, depending on the severity of the stuck shed. When soaking a snake, the idea is to get their skin hydrated, therefore it is not necessary to completely submerse them in water. Always make sure that the water is shallow enough that the snake does not have to swim to keep it?s head above water. Although snakes are good swimmers, if they are left in water that is too deep, they can become exhausted, and ultimately drown.
Part IV - Carpet Python Housing
? Young Hatchlings
Hatchlings are only usually 10-14 inches long. After hatching, to start them off, it?s been said that it?s best to keep them in a small plastic ?shoe box? sized enclosure, which are approximately 4-8? wide by 10-14? long. I would recommend nothing bigger than that, at least until they have started to accept food on a regular basis.
? Hatchlings to Juveniles
After they have started to feed on a regular basis, you may move them to something a bit larger, such as a 10 gallon aquarium (with a very secure screen top) or even a large plastic "Critter Keeper" type cage.
In rack systems, I?ve housed baby carpets for over a year in Rubbermaid 12 quart containers (approximately 12? x 16?) with great results. For Carpet Pythons up to 5 feet in length, I?d say a 28 quart box (approx. 23? x 16?) would be sufficient.
? Adults
Adult Jungle Carpets and Irian Jaya Carpets should be kept in a cage with a minimum of 5 or 6 square feet of floor space, such as 36" Neodesha or a 3' x 2' Vision cage. Of course, a 4 foot cage would be preferable. As a rule of thumb for Pythons in general, some keepers say that one square foot of floor space per foot in length is optimal, but I think slightly less than one square foot is fine for Carpets, due to their slim build. A 7 foot long Carpet coiled in it?s hide box, will not take up nearly as much space as a 5 foot Ball Python.
? Large Adults
Adult Coastal Carpets will require a cage that?s at least 4 feet long by 24? deep. 18? tall is fine, 24? would be better.
Carpet Pythons are semi-arboreal as hatchlings and juveniles, and even adults will make use of any perch or branches available. This really is not a necessity, but it does seem to help with the general happiness of the snake. With that in mind, if you aren?t housing a dozen of them, you might consider a cage with sufficient height to facilitate climbing. The cage does not have to be extremely tall to accommodate a sufficient perch. A ten gallon aquarium is more than tall enough to make the snake feel far enough off of the ground. With that in mind, some of the smaller plastic sweater boxes are only 3.5 to 4 inches tall, which makes it kind of difficult to provide any kind of perch. This is why I have recommended the plastic "Critter Keeper" type cages, which generally cost less than ten dollars and also provide better security and ventilation than a sweater box. On the other hand, when you have dozens of snakes to house, sweater boxes are much more practical, and they seem to work just fine for me.
Just a thought?The good old 10 gallon tank
You can afford the snake, but not a cage? A ten gallon aquarium with a screen top will work great and only cost you $20, at the very most?and you can pick one up at Wal-Mart on the way home from the reptile show. For an established hatchling (one that?s feeding regularly) to 3.5 foot Carpet Python, a good old ten gallon fish tank with a screen top is really all you need for a cage. Aquariums are a real pain to keep looking good, due to all the glass, but before I started using rack systems, they really worked well in a pinch. If you don?t have a small cage laying around, a good old ten gallon tank ($10) and a screen top ($10) is a great, affordable way to house a new Carpet Python until you can afford a different cage?or until it outgrows the tank. In all honesty, they work fine, so it?s really all your Carpet Python will need until it is large enough to go into it?s adult home. Once they grow out of a ten gallon tank, you may as well start looking at reptile cages, not fish tanks. Larger aquaria are expensive and heavy, not to mention still a pain to keep looking clean. That said, they?re just not practical?especially when you can buy a cage that?s light weight, easier to clean, and built for reptiles at a comparable price.
Substrates
Newspaper, Cypress mulch, and shredded Aspen bedding are the most popular substrates for keeping most, if not all species of pythons, and carpet pythons are no exception.
Cypress mulch and Aspen - In my experience, Aspen or Cypress Mulch seem to be even easier than newspaper when housing only one or a few snakes, and are better looking without a doubt.
When Aspen or Cypress are used, it's not necessary to change all of it out, every single time the snake soils a spot. I just remove the part that has been soiled, and then change it all out every couple of months. Aspen and Cypress may also have further benefits, as hatchlings will also burrow under it rather than use a hide box. The only marked difference I?ve seen between Aspen and Cypress, is that Cypress holds humidity better and resists mold growth better in higher humidity, but humidity is not much of an issue with Carpet Pythons, so choose what you like. In my opinion, Cypress is the way to go. It looks better, and is undoubtedly less expensive.
The only downsides that I have found is that Aspen or Cypress mulch tend to stick to water bowls and cage furniture (hide boxes, branches, etc.), and will ultimately end up on the floor, whenever you clean a cages or even change out the water bowls. For that reason alone, I use newspaper whenever possible.
Newspaper- Newspaper is even more economical than Cypress Mulch and may sometimes be more practical to maintain, when housing larger specimens. Personally, I hate having to vacuum the floor every time I clean a cage or change water bowls, so I have switched to newspaper in all of my racks, and even some of my display type cages. Disposable Cage Liners are another great alternative. They are better looking, only one layer is needed, and they are becoming very popular.
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Here?s what you will need?
1. Secure cage.
2. Water Bowl
3. Heat Source(s) ? Under tank heater (heat tape or reptile heating pad) and for some applications, a heat lamp.
4. Hide Boxes
5. Thermometer
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1. Cage - Whatever method of housing you choose, make sure it?s escape proof, or you?ll no longer have a Carpet Python to house in it.
2. Water Bowl - Choose a water bowl that is heavy, so that it doesn?t tip over when your snake is cruising around at night. With Carpets, where you place the bowl within the cage isn?t much of a concern, in my opinion.
Note: Some keepers prefer to place the bowl on the warm end of the cage, in order to increase evaporation, which will equate to higher humidity. Personally, I think that it leads to more rapid bacterial/fungal growth (which means more work for you), and I don?t see any real need for this with Carpet Pythons, with the exception of during shed cycles.
3. Heat Source ? I fully recommend using an under tank heater (which I will refer to as a UTH from here on). Make sure that it takes up no more than 1/3rd of the floor space. I try to keep the UTH at one extreme end of the cage, not in the middle. This will allow the other end of the cage to be cooler, allowing the snake to better control it?s body temperature (thermo regulate) by creating a better thermal gradient. Most commercial UTHs will not require the use of a thermostat or rheostat, however it is still wise to make sure that the temperature on the ?hot spot? (the area directly above the UTH) does not exceed 100 degrees.
In larger collections, it?s more economical to use ?flex watt? heat tape controlled by a thermostat or rheostat. Although heat tape functions in the same manner as a UTH, it is not regulated. This means that, it can get extremely hot. This can cause serious problems, including electrical fire, burns to the animal, overheating, and even death. If using heat tape, be sure to consult with a professional.
In my collection, I use heat tape on a thermostat, and prefer to keep the ?hot spot? at about 90-94 degrees, which will effectively cause the ambient temperatures (in my particular cages) to fall into the proper range.
Use of a heat lamp is completely optional in my opinion, provided the UTH (or heat tape) is providing sufficient heat. If using one, put it over the same end as the UTH, so that the snake can still find a cool spot in the cage, should it wish to do so. Using a heat lamp as the only means of heat will usually cause the air in the cage to become very dry, especially in an enclosure with a lot of ventilation, such as an aquarium with a screen top.
By the way, if you do use a heat lamp or any light at all, make it easy on yourself and get a timer (Under $5 at Wal-Mart), and set it to be on for 12 hours per day and off for 12 hours.
4. Hide Boxes ? These are one of the most important aspects of snake husbandry, in my opinion. Almost all snakes must have somewhere to hide and feel secure. Some owners only use one hide box, and that?s usually on the warm end of the cage. This is a no-no in my opinion, as it gives the animal no choice in temperature (therefore it cannot thermo regulate properly) since it now has to hide on the hot end. If only given one choice of a hide box, most snakes will hide (due to their natural instinct to avoid predation) rather than stay out in the open, where the temperature might happen to be more appropriate. Because of this, I prefer to use a long slab of cork bark that runs all the way from the hottest end of the cage to the coolest end of the cage. You can also place a hide box on each end of the cage, in order to give the snake a cool place to hide and a warm place to hide. Another benefit of using cork bark is that it isn?t as tall, which is preferable to the snake. Snakes actually feel more secure in tight, close quarters. The comparatively tall and roomy commercial hide boxes, used in many collections are not usually the best choice for a hide box.
5. Thermometer ? Obviously, you need a thermometer to measure the temperature. Don?t be a goof and put it on the wall of the cage?unless, of course, you have a unique snake that spends most of it?s time adhered to the wall. I actually keep thermometers in the hide area, so that I can see what temperatures the snake is actually being exposed to.
Part V - General Information
Carpet Python Sizes
Average Size: There are several different subspecies of Carpet Pythons, so I will just touch on the main three, which are by far, the most common in captivity.
? Jungle Carpet Pythons (M. s. cheynei)
These guys reach 5 to 7 feet on average, though the largest females may grow to even 8.5 feet in length.
? Coastal or Queensland Carpet Pythons (M. s. mcdowelli)
These grow the largest. Although some females have been known to grow to 10 or 11 feet in length (and maybe even more), most adults stay in the range of 7-8 feet.
? Irian Jaya Carpet Pythons (M. s. variegata)
The smaller of the three most popular Carpet Pythons. They average around 5 feet in length, although 7 foot females have been said to exist. Males typically top out at around 4.5-5 feet, and females at about 5.5 to 6 feet.
Remember, length is NOT the only factor when considering size. A lot of new keepers tend to stay away from Carpets because they believe that they get too large. Keep in mind, Carpets are long and slender. For example, a seven foot Carpet Python may weigh less than a five foot Ball Python. That said, it really bothers me when people choose something like a Ball Python over a Carpet Python as a first Python, solely due to the fact that they get longer. In contrast, an adult male Irian Jaya Carpet Python may not exceed 4 feet in length, and would be comparable in size to many popular Colubrids, such as Kingsnakes and Cornsnakes.
Buying a Carpet Python
How do I choose a good looking hatchling?
I am extremely particular in choosing my animals, so to me, this is the most difficult part of the process of buying and keeping a Carpet Python. My advice is to never, ever buy a Carpet Python without at least seeing a picture of it. Carpet Pythons are extremely variable in both color and pattern. Add to that, the fact that they change dramatically in appearance from the time they hatch until they are several years old, I like to see pictures of the hatchling?s parents whenever possible. When purchasing a hatchling Carpet Python, I always request to pictures of the parents. This will help you to determine the quality of the color (yellow in Jungles, etc.) as this will not be apparent in hatchlings or even yearlings. I also try to choose the one with the most crisp pattern, whenever possible. I just can?t say it enough. Picking a hatchling Carpet Python can be a crap shoot, so it?s always wise to see pictures of both of the parents.
[/b]How do I choose one that will be a tame adult?[/b]
Again, if you are genuinely concerned about having a nippy snake, ask the breeder/dealer if the snake is nippy before you buy it?and make sure that you can trust them. If they tell you that ALL young Carpet Pythons are nippy, they?re either lying to you, or they don?t know. No matter what anyone says, it really is possible to find a docile hatchling Carpet Python. I?d say 90% of Carpet Pythons will calm down within just a couple weeks of proper handling, but not always. However, finding a good looking and docile hatchling Carpet Python might be a chore.
However, should you end up with a nippy one, I find that letting them bite you repeatedly and NOT putting them back into their cage immediately, will instill in the snake that you really mean them no harm. As I stated in the Common Myths section, you have to remember that a hatchling Carpet Python?s teeth are tiny in comparison to the thickness of your skin, so they will very rarely break the skin. Their bites are literally painless, which is more than can be said about a teething puppy or kitten.
hope it helps
M.S
