lol, also means if they stand in front of the telly u cant see the screen!
not eating isnt stressful, but its bloodly annoying having to throw out perfectly good rodents!!
Help My Snake Isn't Eating!
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lol, also means if they stand in front of the telly u cant see the screen!
not eating isnt stressful, but its bloodly annoying having to throw out perfectly good rodents!!
mysnakesau
Almost Legendary
When I know my snakes are healthy I know to accept it normal to see them go off their food. But I just said goodbye to one who had not eaten for two years. She was a top eater and NEVER knocked back a meal. She first stopped eating at the start of the cooling season, and sometimes it is challenging to get them going again when the weather warms up. But come the beginning of summer and she still had not taken any food, and knowing she was not gravid, that's when I started to worry. Week after week the months rolled over and she still did not accept food. Vet could find nothing wrong. She looked perfectly healthy on the outside, no signs of stress or blockages. However, in the last 6 months before she died, a mass started to swell in her stomach. To look at it you'd think she'd just taken a feed but I knew she was wasting away :cry: and there was nothing I could do for her. Vet put down to a tumor but she was already too far gone to even consider operating to remove the tumour. I had her put down.
So now my yearling jungles have gone off their food while everyone else is still happily filling their bellies. Yeah its most likely normal. Female did have breeders choice stuck up in her jacobs organ or whatever its called, but he has gone off his food, too. Colin suggested I turn my heat back on, yearlings should have 24/7 heat. I have observed improvement in the movement of my boy but as yet I have not tried to feed them. I can't help but worry, after losing my beautiful intergrade, when one goes off their food.
Not writing this to scare the newbies anymore than they are. When you know your temps are right, the only thing you can do is wait for the weather to start warming up again before you start to worry. They won't waste away over winter. But do keep an eye on them. Keep an ear out for their breathing. You want to hear nothing. Watch their habits and note any changes in their behaviour. Normally docile snakes suddenly showing aggression can signal something is upsetting them. Other factors that can cause fasting are enclosure too big, too open, high traffic area stressing them, can see another snake beside them, shadows or if you have two living together, be careful that they aren't trying to eat each other.
Happy herping
So now my yearling jungles have gone off their food while everyone else is still happily filling their bellies. Yeah its most likely normal. Female did have breeders choice stuck up in her jacobs organ or whatever its called, but he has gone off his food, too. Colin suggested I turn my heat back on, yearlings should have 24/7 heat. I have observed improvement in the movement of my boy but as yet I have not tried to feed them. I can't help but worry, after losing my beautiful intergrade, when one goes off their food.
Not writing this to scare the newbies anymore than they are. When you know your temps are right, the only thing you can do is wait for the weather to start warming up again before you start to worry. They won't waste away over winter. But do keep an eye on them. Keep an ear out for their breathing. You want to hear nothing. Watch their habits and note any changes in their behaviour. Normally docile snakes suddenly showing aggression can signal something is upsetting them. Other factors that can cause fasting are enclosure too big, too open, high traffic area stressing them, can see another snake beside them, shadows or if you have two living together, be careful that they aren't trying to eat each other.
Happy herping
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pythonmum
Very Well-Known Member
My Antaresia will stop eating even if kept toasty warm over winter. The stimson goes for about 5 months, the spotted for 3. They barely lose any weight over this time and I have learned not to stress.
Although they are not eating, I do not lower their temperature because I am not breeding them. I let them move to the cooler end if they wish. It is important that new keepers realise that you do NOT turn off the heat when a snake is brumating, but rather shorten the time during which a warmer temperature is offered and drop this a couple of degrees. Turning off the heat source can be fatal. For my breeders, I carefully reduce the 'day' length and slightly lower the 'day' temperature, while allowing a controlled drop at night with a day/night thermostat.
I have always kept youngsters toasty warm and kept feeding them throughout winter. Sometimes just turning the prey the other way can trigger a feeding response (present it back first, instead of feet first). Maybe the new snake is a shy feeder and you need to leave prey outside the hide box, cover the enclosure and uncover it in the morning. Don't hit the snake with the prey! If the snake is not interested in something being dangled and slightly shaken, it will become terrified if you beat it about the face and head with the food. No luck? Try again next week using one of the other suggestions. DON'T try every night!
Although they are not eating, I do not lower their temperature because I am not breeding them. I let them move to the cooler end if they wish. It is important that new keepers realise that you do NOT turn off the heat when a snake is brumating, but rather shorten the time during which a warmer temperature is offered and drop this a couple of degrees. Turning off the heat source can be fatal. For my breeders, I carefully reduce the 'day' length and slightly lower the 'day' temperature, while allowing a controlled drop at night with a day/night thermostat.
I have always kept youngsters toasty warm and kept feeding them throughout winter. Sometimes just turning the prey the other way can trigger a feeding response (present it back first, instead of feet first). Maybe the new snake is a shy feeder and you need to leave prey outside the hide box, cover the enclosure and uncover it in the morning. Don't hit the snake with the prey! If the snake is not interested in something being dangled and slightly shaken, it will become terrified if you beat it about the face and head with the food. No luck? Try again next week using one of the other suggestions. DON'T try every night!
drinkies
Not so new Member
do problem feeders have any long lasting problems?by all accounts size is the determining factor for maturity,but is there anything developmentally a concern for noneaters?just curious
cement
Very Well-Known Member
And ambient temperature is an important factor in winter. Even though the thermostat will keep the basking area warm the ambient temp will "shrink" the warm end, sometimes you'll have to up the wattage to compensate.
When your hatchling feeds successfully, take its temperature with an infra red temp gun. If it doesn't feed then a quick zap with the gun will tell you if it is too cold or not, regardless of the heat still being on.
A lot of newbies spend to much time concerned with the hot and cold end temps...... the only important temperature... is the temperature of the snake!! This is why an infra red temp gun is so important.
When your hatchling feeds successfully, take its temperature with an infra red temp gun. If it doesn't feed then a quick zap with the gun will tell you if it is too cold or not, regardless of the heat still being on.
A lot of newbies spend to much time concerned with the hot and cold end temps...... the only important temperature... is the temperature of the snake!! This is why an infra red temp gun is so important.
icedmice
Not so new Member
Well I don't feel so bad now, I'm an novice herper, long time herp enthusiast. My pet is an Uluru Woma Python, excellent handler, most gorgeous animal and certainly one I'll always be proud of as my first. He's like a snake with training wheels, so easy even with rodents around the house, I could not have asked for a more ideal pet. He's never been a fussy eater but due to the weather cooling I've let him go longer between feeds. His last feed was rather large anyway.
Today is 1 month since his last feed, I've got to admit I did worry a little. Even though I've read lots of books, spoken to people and yes I realise it is normal. He appears in good condition and I still catch him planning his next great escape! - little ratbag .
Sorta dissappionted I defrosted a rat for nothing . I bought those rats, they weren't cheap! I should start storing a few of my own that develop respitory issues as kittens, but it feels a bit ikky feeding one pet to another. I suppose in a way it won't go to waste and save me money in the long run.
Today is 1 month since his last feed, I've got to admit I did worry a little. Even though I've read lots of books, spoken to people and yes I realise it is normal. He appears in good condition and I still catch him planning his next great escape! - little ratbag
.Sorta dissappionted I defrosted a rat for nothing
. I bought those rats, they weren't cheap! I should start storing a few of my own that develop respitory issues as kittens, but it feels a bit ikky feeding one pet to another. I suppose in a way it won't go to waste and save me money in the long run.
mysnakesau
Almost Legendary
I just wasted 2 mice - jungles didn't eat. Ah well. Such is life.
saximus
Almost Legendary
Haha yeah this is probably the only thing that still frustrates me when they don't eat. I wasted a hopper rat on the weekend too. It's especially annoying when you're rats and mice are in a lull in production
Red-Ink
Very Well-Known Member
On the other side.... I often see... well how should I put this delicately? I see a lot of "well loved" snakes out there, which in my opinion is worse than not eating...
saximus
Almost Legendary
Yeah I agree that can't be very good for them. I'd like to find some reference material on that actually. I am a bit worried my Jungle is getting a little porky but I don't think I overfeed him. So I'm thinking it might have more to do with the fat content of the rats.
Is there a point where the fat content of rats becomes too high and you're better off feeding something else? (say 2 x rats of smaller size).
My Jungle is only on small rats at the moment, but I'm a little worried about upsizing.. From what I've read, problems like fatty liver disease are more of
an issue for BHPs and Womas (as they mostly eat reptiles in the wild), but I guess my question would apply to my Woma, too..
My Jungle is only on small rats at the moment, but I'm a little worried about upsizing.. From what I've read, problems like fatty liver disease are more of
an issue for BHPs and Womas (as they mostly eat reptiles in the wild), but I guess my question would apply to my Woma, too..
Red-Ink
Very Well-Known Member
There's an article on it in one of the old issues of RA by Doc Roc... can't remember the excat vol. or iss. number. I'll dig it up when I get home. I checked their site and it ain't one of the online ones they have there. Maybe contact SXR for a copy of it?
saximus
Almost Legendary
Alright cheers Red I'll see what I can find.
Syner, that's my concern as well. Maybe one of us (you) should start a thread specifically about it
Syner, that's my concern as well. Maybe one of us (you
) should start a thread specifically about it
Red-Ink
Very Well-Known Member
I feed one size down every second feed for my snakes... i.e. if the correct feed is say a weaner rat for their size, I feed 1 weaner then the next feed it's a fuzzy then back to weaner on the following feed and so on... Doesn't hurt them and they seem to be in better condition for it. Hungry by the second feed though, I think it also keeps their feeding response up as well... mine have never refused a meal.
Alright cheers Red I'll see what I can find.
Syner, that's my concern as well. Maybe one of us (you
Done.. Add anything extra you can think of..
http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/australian-snakes-37/upsizing-food-size-vs-fat-164331/
FlippinBirdies
Active Member
Thanks! Was looking for this info.
saximus
Almost Legendary
No, thank you for searching first and not posting another thread about this
FlippinBirdies
Active Member
I am a young herper if 30 is counted as young lol And have only been keeping reptiles for 20 months. I love the stickys here! I have a problem feeder bredli who hasnt fed in 4 month and was losing mass so we (got a prof herper/breeder to do it for me) force fed twice and she has perked right up and is showing so much more interest in her environment and is a lot happier. Ive found this sticky and a few other old threads really helpful in some techniques for next attempts so thank you guys heaps! Fingers crossed she comes good with a bit of perseverance and time
nudge
Not so new Member
I have a spotted python which i have owned for about 4 months. In all that time she has only ever taken 1 feed from me.
We were told she was eating pinkie rats when we picked her up from the reptile shop we got her from.
I know they slow down their eating habits this time of year due to the cold but this is getting silly now.
When she did take the only feed from me she DIDN'T smash it like my other spotteds have done in the past but just took it and swallowed it (she didnt even constrict it at all).
I have tried her on pinkie rats, fuzzy mice, hopper mice and i am now out of ideas as to what to do about her not eating.
I fear she has lost some condition.
She has also not shed at all since we got her.
When we got her she used to either live at the cold end of her enclosure or in her water bowl for days on end and i thought she might have been close to shedding but she didnt.
If anyone has any ideas please let me know.
Thanks
nudge.
An update to my previous post when i came down to the study/herp room this morning i noticed she had shed overnight.
I thought she might have taken a mouse off me but alas she didnt want to know about it.
I even tried putting the cover on her enclosure so she would be in total darkness as i thought she might have been shy but no she still didnt eat.
We were told she was eating pinkie rats when we picked her up from the reptile shop we got her from.
I know they slow down their eating habits this time of year due to the cold but this is getting silly now.
When she did take the only feed from me she DIDN'T smash it like my other spotteds have done in the past but just took it and swallowed it (she didnt even constrict it at all).
I have tried her on pinkie rats, fuzzy mice, hopper mice and i am now out of ideas as to what to do about her not eating.
I fear she has lost some condition.
She has also not shed at all since we got her.
When we got her she used to either live at the cold end of her enclosure or in her water bowl for days on end and i thought she might have been close to shedding but she didnt.
If anyone has any ideas please let me know.
Thanks
nudge.
An update to my previous post when i came down to the study/herp room this morning i noticed she had shed overnight.
I thought she might have taken a mouse off me but alas she didnt want to know about it.
I even tried putting the cover on her enclosure so she would be in total darkness as i thought she might have been shy but no she still didnt eat.
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SamAndNicole
New Member
Same Here BUT!
Sam a Darwin Coastal python is about 14 months old has not eaten for 6 weeks but is still active and seems ok but she is also putting her whole body in her water bowel everyday I have never seen her do this before. My mind is now at rest a little about the eating thing thanks
Sam a Darwin Coastal python is about 14 months old has not eaten for 6 weeks but is still active and seems ok but she is also putting her whole body in her water bowel everyday I have never seen her do this before. My mind is now at rest a little about the eating thing thanks
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