Help with stuck shed

[Chipewah]

Good afternoon members.

I have just in the last two days gotten a 4 month old Carpet Python and it has mostly shed but there are still bits around its tail that haven't properly shed.

I tried to put it in some water (only a few ml deep and warmish water) to help soak its skin as I heard it helps but the snake being very young and new to my residence seemed quite scared and tagged me twice so I put it back into it's cage and have left it alone. I don't want to stress the snake out as he is young, new and I want to handle him in the future so I am wondering what I should do?

Should I just leave him for now and if so, how long should I leave him before I need to do something to resolve the issue?

I know putting a water bowl in the cage helps as it raises the humidity and I have done this but so far the cage in the cool section hasn't got above 28 Degrees Celsius so I am unsure what else to do?

Any assistance would be appreciated.
[doublepost=1521325003,1521265542][/doublepost]No suggestions?

 

[pinefamily]

If you have only just got the python, leave it alone in its enclosure for a few days to a week, only replacing the water or cleaning up any poop. Then try again, with some lukewarm water in the sink.

 

[Chipewah]

Cheers.

That's what I plan to do, now my only other concern is that he hasn't been fed in over a week and I don't want to feed him until he has completed his shed as I have read that it can be bad for them?

The breeder says she normally fed him every Thursday but missed this one just gone due to him shedding. From what I have read snakes and particularly baby snakes should eat every 10 to 14 days (From what I have read they can go longer without) and this coming Thursday will be 14 days. Hopefully 14 days won't be too much for him and he has completed his shed.

Thanks for the reply pinefamily, much appreciated.

 

[TeaganEliza]

Hey mate, just leave him alone for awhile and see if the shed comes off itself, stuck shed won't do harm if it's only a short period of time. If not then try the soaking method again. Don't worry about feeding him until his shed is off, two weeks isn't a long time. If he's a stressed little fella you don't want to risk regurgitation.

 

[Pauls_Pythons]

You can create a humid area in the enclosure by using a damp cloth inside a hide area at the hot end.
This can help soften the slough if the animal decides to frequent the humid area which they normally do.

 

[Chipewah]

He is a great little snake and was fine with my daughter on day one, only snapped at me first up and then two more times when I tried to soak him and help remove the shed. Since then he has been left in his cage and I will leave him there until Thursday and hopefully the remaining shed (Which isn't much and only on his tail) is gone and I can feed him.

I really appreciate everyone's replies.

 

[Bluetongue1]

The term “warm” or “warmish” when applied to bath temperature for a snake tends to ring alarm bells for me. My preference is to use the term “tepid” when describing the appropriate temperature of water for bathing snakes. Even that is not always satisfactory and really I think we should be describing it as “neither warm nor cold to our touch” if we want to get it right. Fort those that are relatively inexperienced in snake keeping I’d recommend using a thermometer. The fact that your snake so activity tried to escape its bath makes me wonder about the actual temperature of the water.

An explanation of the above…
· The preferred body temperature of carpets pythons (and many others) is around 29oC. If their core body temperature rises to above about 32oC they actively seek a cooler environment. Prolonged exposure to temperatures approaching 40oC is likely to be fatal.
· Human core body temperature averages 37oC. Skin temperature is generally a few degrees lower.
· So given the relative nature of the verbal descriptors “warm” and “warmish”, the temperature of water thus described may be as high 35-40oC.
· The long thin body shape of snakes gives them a high surface to body size ratio (i.e. Surface Area : Volume). The smaller and thinner the snake, the higher the SA:V will be, and the quicker the snake will gain or lose heat.