Herp photography tips

[seumas12345]

i use canon 1d mark III,
90mm f2.8 macro lens and other gear such as 24-70, 70-200 both 2.8
a **** flash that i dont really use that much 430ex
and i use a tourch

but i think camera play a pretty important part though is not the be all and end all. if u can compose and expose an image well then camera only comes down to the quaility and finer details and precision.

as for photoshop, it can only be used to enhance. if the photo is **** in the first place u will never be able to make it great using photoshop!

Fair point. I mean without sounding arrogant, I consider myself fairly creative and I am certainly not technology illiterate. It's just take for instance the pics on the first page. They were just flawless IMO... Obviously I will continue to get better with practise (I have only had my DSLR for a few months), but I'm so keen to get shots like you guys are getting on here. For instance, I spent about 1/2hr shooting butterflies, and about an hour at a creek, and these were the best shots I've come up with. Got any tips/pointers for me?

 

[method]

Equipment it depends, of course you need the right kind of gear to get up close and personal with the wildlife but cheap gear can go along way and be compared to some of the higher end dslr's available. But at the end of the day its the photographer who determains how good the shot will be, both with their knowledge of the the exposures, DOF, shutterspeeds and composition along with of course the photographers own creativity and how willing they are to push it.

Photoshop is just the darkroom fo the digital age and is what is part of the phtography process, and once again it really comes down to the photographers own experience and knowledge which will make a real stunning shot. So yeah, it's deffinatley a part of the photographers process and don't let it put you off when you get a bunch of fools coming in whinging about the use of it. But then again, it has its limits and if to much editing is done eg, removal of objects, too much obvious cloning and just general changes apart from the basics of the original image then really it becomes photo manipulation and you've overdone yourself.

 

[seumas12345]

So pretty much what you guys are saying is that I don't need to go and spend $5000 to get really good shots..? Practise makes perfect, and along with research and patience my shots will get better?? Am I on the right track?

 

[slacker]

So pretty much what you guys are saying is that I don't need to go and spend $5000 to get really good shots..? Practise makes perfect, and along with research and patience my shots will get better?? Am I on the right track?

Your gear should be sufficient, based on what you said a couple of posts ago. Keep shooting...

 

[BrownHash]

I feel that knowing your camera is a good one. Sometimes you wont have a lot of time to take a particular shot (not all herps want to hang around), so it can be important that you know how to use your camera and change settings quickly. It can save you a lot of frustration.

 

[Serpentes_15]

I have a cannon 400d eos with the standard twin lens pack that didn't have the image stabilization

I seem to be having a bit of trouble adusting the depth of field with close up shots. I can literally have soft light behind me, use manual and ajust the aperture to about F16 or something and then will ajust the Shutter speed until the exposure is on 0. Ill also use a bit of flash to allow for slower shutter speed and less chance of camera shake.

It all seems to be going perfect but no matter what i do i can never get that crystal clear and sharp image that is focused throughout the image. I have tried so many things but no matter what i do my photos never turn out like the ones on the first page.

Is it possible that with the standard lenses theres only so much i can do without macro. Is this possibly why i can never get good depth of field with a close up shot.

Anyone else who has this camera or some good advice i would love to hear it before i spend over a grand on lenses.

 

[amazonian]

I have a Nikon D50 with 18-55mm lens.
Which lens would you recomend?

I was thinking an 18-200mm or would I be better with using what I have got + a 55-200mm?

Also what macro lens?
And what else should I look at?

 

[kaylaismyth]

I have a Canon 1000D.. When I get my snake and its comfortable, guaranteed there will be some photos floating around

 

[sweetangel]

I have a cannon 400d eos with the standard twin lens pack that didn't have the image stabilization

I seem to be having a bit of trouble adusting the depth of field with close up shots. I can literally have soft light behind me, use manual and ajust the aperture to about F16 or something and then will ajust the Shutter speed until the exposure is on 0. Ill also use a bit of flash to allow for slower shutter speed and less chance of camera shake.

It all seems to be going perfect but no matter what i do i can never get that crystal clear and sharp image that is focused throughout the image. I have tried so many things but no matter what i do my photos never turn out like the ones on the first page.

Is it possible that with the standard lenses theres only so much i can do without macro. Is this possibly why i can never get good depth of field with a close up shot.

Anyone else who has this camera or some good advice i would love to hear it before i spend over a grand on lenses.

Even though i have spent alot of money on my equipment im still not satisfied by the quality!
My boss reconds its a canon thing! :?
The only really good camera that I think is the top of the top is the Nikon D3! I have seen the sharpest most amazing images come out of a D3. a 70 - 200 f2.8 lens or 28 - 70mm f2.8 lens, but that will set you back over $10,000

 

[Fuscus]

Rules for wild herp photographing at night ( according to Fuscus)

:shock: Learn your camera.. I got peed off at the quality of my night shots so I took a piece of rope outside and photoed it with different settings until I was happy with the focal depth.
:shock: Go out often. I try to go every Tuesday night ( as it is my only night free ) and one day a weekend
:shock: Go out in different weathers. Best so far was a hot, humid night with thunderstorms looming.
:shock: Have regular spots or routes. You then learn the best spots and times. I have a regular route that takes me through a number of different habitats.
:shock: You need to know your victims so you can get the best poses.
:shock: You don't need an expensive camera but it helps, you will get a much higher percentage of good shots with a proper rig. Best is a DSLR with a macro lens You can always upgrade the lens/body/flash later. Trouble with this approach is that you always need to upgrade the lens/body/flash :?
:shock: Light is all important. Forget the inbuilt flash get a powerful separate flash. I use a Nikon SB-900 which can fry eggs at 2 meters. As mentioned in the point above you always want to upgrade so the next on the list is http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod226.htm
:shock: A light ring helps a lot. A light ring is something that turns your camera into a very expensive torch, but really helps. They are expensive and the workmanship on the one I have got is less than optimal but I still wouldn't be without it.
:shock: Photo is of my night-herping rig - D100, SB-900, Nikkor 105 Micro, SunBlitz light ring

 

[seumas12345]

In terms of the flash system, is this going to be a better option for me than the light ring?? http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod347.htm

Also, with the flash systems, do you need to use diffusers when taking macro photography??
Thanks for all the tips guys...
Also another question, I understand that lenses that can achieve lower f-stops such as f2.8 are alot better, but the thing is that my macro is f2.8 but that depth of field just doesnt cut it for macro work... I need at least f5.6 to get decent depth of field. Is the only way to fix this problem is to up my flash system?

Furthermore, when I take macro with the auto macro setting (the little flower) it takes pics with very fast shutter speed. However, when I change to A (where everything is adjustable but shutter speed is auto) and I put the same settings as the auto macro shot i.e iso 400, f5.6 it takes the shot with a much slower shutter speed.... why is this?? I thought that because everything is exactly the same it should take the shot with the same shutter speed...?

 

[Fuscus]

In terms of the flash system, is this going to be a better option for me than the light ring?? http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod347.htm

In terms of the flash system, yes. But the light ring is not a flash, it is a torch so you can focus. Notice I have the light ring and a Flash

Also, with the flash systems, do you need to use diffusers when taking macro photography??
Thanks for all the tips guys...
Also another question, I understand that lenses that can achieve lower f-stops such as f2.8 are alot better, but the thing is that my macro is f2.8 but that depth of field just doesnt cut it for macro work... I need at least f5.6 to get decent depth of field. Is the only way to fix this problem is to up my flash system?

For snakes at night up close I use an F Stop of 32, The highest the lens goes. Animals at a distance I drop the F stop

Furthermore, when I take macro with the auto macro setting (the little flower) it takes pics with very fast shutter speed. However, when I change to A (where everything is adjustable but shutter speed is auto) and I put the same settings as the auto macro shot i.e iso 400, f5.6 it takes the shot with a much slower shutter speed.... why is this?? I thought that because everything is exactly the same it should take the shot with the same shutter speed...?

Can't Help - My Nikon does not present that problem

 

[seumas12345]

I think I have figured out what my issue is.... Instead of shooting with Av I should be shooting with complete M (manuel).... I've just tested it out and I can achieve a decent shot at f32, shutter speed 1/125 and it comes out good... I really am not sure what is going on with the Av function on my camera... when I shoot with the Av function and set the apeture to f32 it tries to set the shutter speed to over 30seconds... has anyone else experienced this with canon dslr's??

 

[saratoga]

I have seen the sharpest most amazing images come out of a D3.

thats probably only because a pro was driving it!!

If you go to a restaurant and have a great meal you don't say...wow ...great meal......gee they must have good posts and pans in the kitchen!

A good photographer will take good photos with almost any camera. Having said that the type of camera you have can also make a big difference....once you know how to drive it.

Almost every good image you see today has been tweaked in photoshop....but all you are really doing is the finishing touches...some sharpening, a bit of colour or light levels.

To end up with a great photo you still need to start with a really good one straight out of the camera!

The biggest problem I see with photos on this site is people not putting consideration into the photo composition and missing the focus.

Have a look at the photos at the start of this thread...all great photos...and the eye is razor sharp in all of them!

Always, always make sure you focus on the eye.....and then perhaps move it off centre to compose a bit (learn the rule of thirds)

If the eye is not in focus you may as well throw the photo straight into the bin!

If you have an DSLR you are best off sticking to aperture priority with reptiles...which means you set the depth of field and the camera controls the shutter speed. But beware of camera shake and always apply this rule.....your shutter speed should be inversely proportion to the length of your lens for a sharp photo!. That means if you are using a 200mm lens...then you should be using a shutter speed of 1/200 or faster for a blur free hand held shot.
If you are using a 60mm lens, then it should be a minimum of 1/60 second.

If photographing outside try to do it early morning or late afternoon when the light is softer, or on an overcast day. This will greatly reduce the strength of the shadows and will be more appealing.

Practice, get to know your camera, practice...... like Fuscus says...even if its on a piece of rope or a plastic snake....so when the real thing comes along you will get it right.

 

[method]

It's doing that because the camera is still technically on auto and it wants to get a correctly exposed image. Personally I wouldnt reccomend shooting anything at f/32 try to mx your self around f/22 or something since at that range you will pretty much have an unlimited DOF. At f/32 the diaphram in the lens is literally tiny and there is barely any light entering the lens and hitting the sensor, so in that mode its telling you to get a correctly exposed image the shutter has to be open for 30+ seconds which is ridiculous unless your shooting dusk/sunrise landscapes or nigh photography.

 

[saratoga]

The larger the aperture number (eg f22) the less light you are letting into your CCD...hence the more exposure time you need!

Each time you close down the aperture(eg go from f16 to f22)...you are halving the amount of light getting to your camera.

So if at f16 you were able to have a shutter speed of 1/100 then if you change to f22 your shutter speed for the same exposure will only be 1/50 second...which may cause your photos to look blurry.

All the aperture stuff is a bit confusing at first because of the way the numbers run.

At f2.8 we say the aperture is wide open and it is letting in the maximum amount of light and you will get minimum depth of field....but a much faster shutter speed

At f22 we say this is a very small aperture because it is letting very little light into the camera...but you will get a big depth of field...but need to use a slower shutter speed.

So the bigger the number, the smaller the aperture, and the less light getting on to your CCD.

So to get the best depth of field in your herp shots(not that you always want that) you need reallly good light so you can use the smallest aperture (say f16 or f22) and that usually means having to use a flash.

 

[seumas12345]

It's doing that because the camera is still technically on auto and it wants to get a correctly exposed image. Personally I wouldnt reccomend shooting anything at f/32 try to mx your self around f/22 or something since at that range you will pretty much have an unlimited DOF. At f/32 the diaphram in the lens is literally tiny and there is barely any light entering the lens and hitting the sensor, so in that mode its telling you to get a correctly exposed image the shutter has to be open for 30+ seconds which is ridiculous unless your shooting dusk/sunrise landscapes or nigh photography.

Method you are spot on! I am almost jumping off the walls at my place. I'm taking pics of frogs, spiders, lizards with almost no light that I've never been able to do before because I've always used Av mode and tried to get a decent depth of field but always suffered as a result because camera tried to set the shutter speed to like 30seconds.... I've now burnt off Av completely and am only going to use M (full manuel)!!!! Woot woot! Man it makes a difference! And being able to shoot at 100 ISO is making the colours incredible too! Thanks for this thread guys!

 

[Fuscus]

Personally I wouldnt reccomend shooting anything at f/32..

If you say so. Attachment was taken at f32

 

[Red-Ink]

G'day guys,

I have a Bachelor of Science in scientic imaging, though i don't do a lot of wildlife photography as most of mine are boring studio stuff and to be honest i don't take much pics these days as i work in a different industry to what I've studied. Feel free to fire any questions at me via PM or here and I'll try and share my expertise where i can.

Here's a pic of a lacey i took.

not exactly wild though it's at Ballarat wildlife park using a point and shoot digicam that i carry everywhere and not my DSLR

 

[seumas12345]

xshadowx what kind of mag torch do you use?? Does it have to be very powerful or is it a case of less is more?