How can i get my boy to eat again after months of coming out of hibernation?

Discussion in 'Herp Help' started by ilovemyboys, Dec 20, 2014.

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  1. ilovemyboys

    ilovemyboys Not so new Member

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    Just wondering if anyone knows how I can get my Darwin to eat again after months of coming out of hibernation? And how will I know if he's still in hibernation or not? He went in hibernation round the start of June.:cry:
     
  2. Prof_Moreliarty

    Prof_Moreliarty Well-Known Member

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    Not something I've really had to deal with before but I would've thought he would be active again by now where are you located what temps is his basking spot ambient air temps and cold end at? What size food are you offering? You could also try tearing the nose of the food to get a bit of scent/blood going.
     
  3. Riffherper

    Riffherper Well-Known Member

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    He should be well and truely out of brumation. Temps should have been bumped up in spring and feeding resumed. Ensure temps are right - allow a hotspot in mid 30's for Darwins - and offer food.
     
  4. ilovemyboys

    ilovemyboys Not so new Member

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    its usually round 27.8 or around 29.7 theres has been times were hes tried to take it but doesn't bother with it. I was trying him on large and he wasn't interested so I brought medium. it looked like he was attempting to eat it before. but goes back and fourth away from it. im located in young NSW. its my first time being a snake owner. the last time he ate was before he went into hibernation. And its being going on since spring started tried to see if he would eat again at the middle of October. but didn't take. he just looks more up the top of his cage. but it looks like he has tempted to eat but doesn't want to.

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  5. Prof_Moreliarty

    Prof_Moreliarty Well-Known Member

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    Is that ambient temp? Have you tried leaving the food overnight? As suggested get his basking spot up to 33-35 then after a week then try again if he doesn't take it straight away leave the food in overnight and cover his enclosure for some privacy.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2014
  6. ilovemyboys

    ilovemyboys Not so new Member

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    [MENTION=40902]Prof_Moreliarty[/MENTION]:There seems to be a bit of blood around the head of the rat, so I'm guessing he has attempted to eat but just doesn't seem interested.

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    Yes, we have tried an over night but they were still there the next day. I have just given him the last rat in the pack as the pack I brought him had 3 in it. but I have been checking on him!!
     
  7. Prof_Moreliarty

    Prof_Moreliarty Well-Known Member

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    When I heat up rodents the head will go red but it's not like their actually bleeding the tearing of nose is a trick I've seen someone else use but havnt had to myself.
     
  8. ilovemyboys

    ilovemyboys Not so new Member

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    he use to eat around the 28+ mark on large before he hibernated

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    ok

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    I just tried to get his food out. and he came racing over so close to. were I wasn't gonna bother trying to get it out. incase he went to bite me, and when I went to check on him he was looking at the lid of his cage
     
  9. Prof_Moreliarty

    Prof_Moreliarty Well-Known Member

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    Seems like he's half interested what are you heating the enclosure with? Might pay to get a it heat gun to see what exact temps are around the cage.
     
  10. ilovemyboys

    ilovemyboys Not so new Member

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    just one of those strobe light things as hes in a fish tank and everytime I used that black globe the lights would either burnout or break. I am trying to save up for a proper enclosure as. ive just turned his light on. plus the heat mat on one side.

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    as he has escaped once so I don't know if hes more interested in trying to find a way out again
     
  11. Prof_Moreliarty

    Prof_Moreliarty Well-Known Member

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    So globe and mat are on same side? When you say strobe light you mean the red IR ones? Is the globe attached to a thermostat? I'd just make sure his hotspot is 33-35 for now leave it another 5-7 days and try again another week won't hurt.

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    Btw glass loses heat really easily
     
  12. ilovemyboys

    ilovemyboys Not so new Member

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    I mean like those big long ones that you can get the florescent ones

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    we are looking into saving up enough to get a better one that can house him as hes over 5ft
     
  13. Prof_Moreliarty

    Prof_Moreliarty Well-Known Member

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    Right so that would be a uv one? Pretty much useless for heat or anything else.
     
  14. ilovemyboys

    ilovemyboys Not so new Member

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    basically . but I've wanted to try the caged light as I got the snake and the tank of my brother. but im not sure if the tank would accept it anhow it would fit into the cage

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    he is currently watching it and guarding it so we see what happens
     
  15. Prof_Moreliarty

    Prof_Moreliarty Well-Known Member

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    How many watts is the mat I've had an adult spotty in 1200l by 600h full glass cage with a 14w mat underneath and a hide over the top of mat and temps in the hide were ample.
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2014
  16. ilovemyboys

    ilovemyboys Not so new Member

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    its a big one but I didn't get a chance to read the size I just put it under the tank on one side
     
  17. Prof_Moreliarty

    Prof_Moreliarty Well-Known Member

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    Cover his enclosure leave him overnight see what happens if he doesn't take keep his temps up and try again in 5 days. Don't panic he will start feeding again just seems like a husbandry issue.
     
  18. ilovemyboys

    ilovemyboys Not so new Member

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    ok. we usually leave him over night anyway in case he does decide to eat. and we just check on him. is this when breeding season usually starts? as I said im very new to snake ownership
     
  19. Riffherper

    Riffherper Well-Known Member

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    That's your issue then. Your temps are WAY too low. The snake is not confident it will be able to digest its food. This is probably why it's shown more interest in smaller items which will be easier to digest. Bump temps up immediately - offer hot spot of mid 30s - not only will the snake eat but it will be much less likely to fall ill due to insufficient heat.

    Reptiles don't really require all that much. Heat is however essential and without it they get sick and die. A heating solution needs to be sorted.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2014
  20. ilovemyboys

    ilovemyboys Not so new Member

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    Ok. I will just go check the temp as it was 28.1 hours ago.

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    I just moved the themestat to the heat mat side so we will see if it moves up
     
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