Just havin a crack

Discussion in 'DIY Zone' started by Joeblake, Apr 14, 2016.

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  1. Joeblake

    Joeblake Not so new Member

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    Hi ladys and gents

    I built this enclosure recently i will be building 2 more and a hatchie rack aswell. I would like some tips or ideas on improving the design and look of it. I already feel it needs a bottom lip of atleast 50mm for substrate.

    I have used gas struts and kitchen cupboard hinges for the lid so it opes and closes nicely. I also used roller slides form epco for the glass and hooked the light up to a timer and a thermostat for the heat tile it has a 25 w heat cord siliconed to it.

    I think the light is too much as it lights up my study better than my normal ceiling light does.

    Any comments welcome just looking for some help

    Thanks

    20160328_104759.jpg
     
  2. Tinky

    Tinky Very Well-Known Member

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    Just a thought, but it looks like your light is in the middle of the enclosure. You might get a better heat gradient if you had it at one end.
     
  3. Joeblake

    Joeblake Not so new Member

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    Thanks Tinky yes not a bad idea im using a twin fluorescent tube light it does put out some heat but not alot i have also put a shelf in on the right hand side on the nack wall so it shades the cool vent i will loom for a pic
     
  4. jsmith

    jsmith Not so new Member

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    that looks like an awesome enclosure mate.

    with your lighting i guess it depends what snakes you have. but that light is definitely very bright

    Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk
     
  5. Joeblake

    Joeblake Not so new Member

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    Thanks Jsmith its has my stimsons python in it. I think its too bright i will see if i can do something to dull it down or get different tubes for it.
     
  6. jsmith

    jsmith Not so new Member

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    yeh i have a stimson python...only a juv atm but something like this looks amazing for his upgrade enclosure.

    i like the idea of the heat tile

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  7. Joeblake

    Joeblake Not so new Member

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    the heat tile works well im not sure if i should have a heat light for a basking spot aswell ? i think if i did put a heat light in she would come out of her hide a little more.

    the little woma is very happy with her enclosure for now while she is young the exoterra enclosure will be fine while i build a few more enclosures.
     
  8. jsmith

    jsmith Not so new Member

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    yeh even though im an noob. most things ive read is personal preference.

    i like the idea of having a lower wattage heat mat/cord compared to a high wattage globe.

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  9. Wokka

    Wokka Well-Known Member APS Veteran

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    It depends if you are building the cage to look pretty or to work well. A baffle wall in the middle will improve the temperature gradient, and provide a shadow area for the snake to escape the glare from the light, but may make the cage look cluttered and the snake less visible.
     
  10. Joeblake

    Joeblake Not so new Member

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    Thanks Wokka i added a shelf in on the cold side to give her abit more shelter and hide from the light also its fairly warm on top of the shelf i will get pics posted up soon.


    i think the next enclosure will encorporate a baffle wall and a heated section away from the main enclosure sort of a burrow if you like that way i can use the fake turf and also some wood shavings in the hidden section ?

    has anybody got any pics of their setups ?
     
  11. Joeblake

    Joeblake Not so new Member

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    Gday here is an updated veiw on the enclosure
    I have taken out a light tube and that has helped heaps its now looking good and as i said before i have added a shelf on the cool side for abit more shelter pritty happy so far.

    20160422_104354.jpg

    Just a quick look inside the top of the enclosure
    20160422_104838.jpg
     
  12. Striker94

    Striker94 Not so new Member

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    Hey mate
    just curious what timber you used, thinking about starting mymown build
    cheers
     
  13. Joeblake

    Joeblake Not so new Member

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    hey Striker94 16mm malemine its called colour board in bunnings. ;)

    - - - Updated - - -

    Had a crack at a rack set up today its not fitted out yet but you get the idea

    20160425_124231.jpg

    20160425_124212.jpg

    I have two 15m heat cords for this rack but im just fluffing around with ideas at the moment also going to put those tubs on ali angles they have wheels but they dont roll very well on laminate
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2016
  14. Wokka

    Wokka Well-Known Member APS Veteran

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    Ideally you need flat bottom tubs without wheels so they are in closer contact with heat cord. Solid sides and back will provide thermal mass and reduce draft so rear of tubs will stay warm, Also privacy for occupants.
     
  15. Joeblake

    Joeblake Not so new Member

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    So i have been busy doing some mods and installing the heat cord and thermostat.

    Also i have picked up 5 pythons 2 BHPs 2 Stimmos and a Woma.

    20160516_182133.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2016
  16. Burgo89

    Burgo89 Active Member

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    That looks boss [MENTION=42327]Joeblake[/MENTION], what thermostat are you using in the large enclosure?
     
  17. Joeblake

    Joeblake Not so new Member

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    Thanks Burgo89 i use Habistat dimming thermostat with a 25w heat cord under the tile for the main enclosure and a Habistat pulse perportional with a 100w heat cord on the tub rack
     
  18. Ghillies

    Ghillies Not so new Member

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    Hey mate is that a 300x300 tile? What temps are you getting? Have you tested without the thermo? Looking at doing similar with a 400 or 450mm tile
     
  19. Joeblake

    Joeblake Not so new Member

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    Hey bud its a 400x400 tile it gets very hot without a thermostat personally i wouldnt use the heat cord without a thermostat, it does take awhile for the heat to soak through the tile i have it set at 33 at the hottest point hope this helps ;)
     
  20. missie66

    missie66 Not so new Member

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    So I can use a heat may instead of a heat light? What wattage would I need? What temp setting?
     
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