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New Tank. Heater help.

Miffystein92

New Member
Hey Guys,

I’ve recently just started setting up my Breslin new tank. It’s a custom 1.7x 1.5 tank.

I’m use to using a red heat bulb. Though with the upgrade I purchased a ceramic bulb. And I’m having issues.
As you can see I have a top compartment for the lights and heater.

and I’m finding the bulb has heated the top compartment a lot. And the reflector is incredibly hot. But the tank isn’t.

is it the type of reflector? Or ?
 

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Herptology

Very Well-Known Member
Trusted Seller
this is an inappropriate and EXTREMELY DANGEROUS (HIGHLY LIKELY cause a fire especially on a a wooden setup like that if you leave it like that!!!!) setup for a Ceramic heatlamp!!! you're choking 100s of degrees being emitted in a large radius in a confined space! please please please get a more suitable heat source like the red bulbs u used to use or suspend the heater into the enclosure with a cage around it!
 

Miffystein92

New Member
I’d like to firstly point out.

I use to use red bulbs. I changed as I was getting sick and tired of them constantly blowing. While there cheap I wanted something that would last longer.

- there’s only one bulb used in this tank. The rest are UVB bulbs that are cool to the touch.
- as soon as I first turned it on and could feel the heat, I immediately turned it off. As removed it. And I’m now purchasing a new red bulb which will be considerably better as it reflects the heat downwards.

I didn’t come here to get abused and judged about it being inappropriate, I came here for advice as I had never before used such a bulb and wasn’t sure on how to use them. The tank was built by a furniture builder local to me, out of Australian hardwood. I designed it wanting something to hide all the electrical and lights and to be more spacious for my snake.
 

Pythonguy1

Well-Known Member
I didn’t come here to get abused and judged
Who here is abusing you?
Also, If your using the tank for a snake, I would use floor heating such as a heat cord or mat. Much more efficient, and easy to run than overhead heating.
Oh, and I wouldn't worry about using UV for your snake. It's completely unnecessary.
 

Miffystein92

New Member
You could do what I did and cut a hole for them. It took a little DIY though. More pics in my build thread here

View attachment 331057

This is similar to what I’ve done. I have a top section made to fit the lights in and holes cut for them.

the base board is water proofed and is removable if needed. And the whole enclosure designed for movement as natural wood moves and flex’s.

Ive changed to a red bulb also. Sorry to everyone I was slightly annoyed and snapped. The bulb is a lot cooler than the ceramic but is still hot. So I may be down sizing one of the shades and a smaller bulb. And move the temp cord higher so it’s not required to hot so far. Hopefully they help. Otherwise I’ll have to look to an internal heater.
I’ve attached pictures of the enclosure during the build.
 

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Jonesy1103

Donator
Donator
I’d like to firstly point out.

I use to use red bulbs. I changed as I was getting sick and tired of them constantly blowing. While there cheap I wanted something that would last longer.

- there’s only one bulb used in this tank. The rest are UVB bulbs that are cool to the touch.
- as soon as I first turned it on and could feel the heat, I immediately turned it off. As removed it. And I’m now purchasing a new red bulb which will be considerably better as it reflects the heat downwards.

I didn’t come here to get abused and judged about it being inappropriate, I came here for advice as I had never before used such a bulb and wasn’t sure on how to use them. The tank was built by a furniture builder local to me, out of Australian hardwood. I designed it wanting something to hide all the electrical and lights and to be more spacious for my snake.
Hi Miffy,
I'm new here myself so I can understand how some of the direct feedback can sometimes
I’d like to firstly point out.

I use to use red bulbs. I changed as I was getting sick and tired of them constantly blowing. While there cheap I wanted something that would last longer.

- there’s only one bulb used in this tank. The rest are UVB bulbs that are cool to the touch.
- as soon as I first turned it on and could feel the heat, I immediately turned it off. As removed it. And I’m now purchasing a new red bulb which will be considerably better as it reflects the heat downwards.

I didn’t come here to get abused and judged about it being inappropriate, I came here for advice as I had never before used such a bulb and wasn’t sure on how to use them. The tank was built by a furniture builder local to me, out of Australian hardwood. I designed it wanting something to hide all the electrical and lights and to be more spacious for my snake.
Hi Miffy,
I am new here myself so I understand how some of the direct feedback can sometimes seem intimidating or too forceful but I think it wasnt the case in this instance.

Herpt and Benno were both just concerned about the increased risk you were facing of a "vivarium meltdown" and of course the resultant loss of specimen and potential for greater damage in the household. Putting that aside...

Mate I am also doing away with the Red Lamps as they don't last. But Ceramic Heat Emitters dont "shoot heat downwards" like the red lamps so the original design of tank wasnt built to handle their type of heat; it will (as you have observed) concentrate in the dish which will make it hot as, too hot for timber.

I have seen people either
A) put the Heat Emitter in the tank with the appropriate cage and ceramic holder
B) provide extra ventilation or other physical gap between the shroud and the timber (
C) switch to heat cord or mat for effieciency reasons
Post automatically merged:

Sorry, using my phone and the screen has issues

For option B) listed above see pythonguys posts. And you may want to have extra vents for the "heat/cable containment area" of your setup.
For option A) use an appropriately sized cage setup with ceramic globe holder, this would of course be inside the tank area. And the heat would stay in the tank and a well positioned thermostat probe would keep a good gradient
Option C) also requires good thermostat probe positioning but will have less visual impact; however due to the nature of heat mat or cord, the way it places heat etc., usually leads to a need to "remap" your heat gradient management.

I would switch back to Red Globes (as the original design was based on) for now; then select your next path but make the required changes to the system to avoid it becoming hazardous.

Hope I have helped
Post automatically merged:

Geez Sorry,
I meant : option B) check out Harpo's work
 
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Miffystein92

New Member
Hi Miffy,
I'm new here myself so I can understand how some of the direct feedback can sometimes

Hi Miffy,
I am new here myself so I understand how some of the direct feedback can sometimes seem intimidating or too forceful but I think it wasnt the case in this instance.

Herpt and Benno were both just concerned about the increased risk you were facing of a "vivarium meltdown" and of course the resultant loss of specimen and potential for greater damage in the household. Putting that aside...

Mate I am also doing away with the Red Lamps as they don't last. But Ceramic Heat Emitters dont "shoot heat downwards" like the red lamps so the original design of tank wasnt built to handle their type of heat; it will (as you have observed) concentrate in the dish which will make it hot as, too hot for timber.

I have seen people either
A) put the Heat Emitter in the tank with the appropriate cage and ceramic holder
B) provide extra ventilation or other physical gap between the shroud and the timber (
C) switch to heat cord or mat for effieciency reasons
Post automatically merged:

Sorry, using my phone and the screen has issues

For option B) listed above see pythonguys posts. And you may want to have extra vents for the "heat/cable containment area" of your setup.
For option A) use an appropriately sized cage setup with ceramic globe holder, this would of course be inside the tank area. And the heat would stay in the tank and a well positioned thermostat probe would keep a good gradient
Option C) also requires good thermostat probe positioning but will have less visual impact; however due to the nature of heat mat or cord, the way it places heat etc., usually leads to a need to "remap" your heat gradient management.

I would switch back to Red Globes (as the original design was based on) for now; then select your next path but make the required changes to the system to avoid it becoming hazardous.

Hope I have helped

I get that. And I do apologise. I worked hard on getting this enclosure built and it’s a centre piece in the lounge room. So the comments just hit a nerve.

This evening, I’ve been playing with the red lamp. So far it’s working, and Im going to make a few adjustments this weekend that will help.

Though I’m looking at getting some fire retardant sheets/ insulation panel idk what there called to place in the electrical top section. Mostly for peace of mind, but for any chances the heater goes way to hot it’s got the little extra protection. Against burning.

I’m lucky although it’s cold here in SA she was until recently in the garage. So the house is definitely a lot warmer for her and easier to keep the tank heated.
 

Jonesy1103

Donator
Donator
I get that. And I do apologise. I worked hard on getting this enclosure built and it’s a centre piece in the lounge room. So the comments just hit a nerve.

This evening, I’ve been playing with the red lamp. So far it’s working, and Im going to make a few adjustments this weekend that will help.

Though I’m looking at getting some fire retardant sheets/ insulation panel idk what there called to place in the electrical top section. Mostly for peace of mind, but for any chances the heater goes way to hot it’s got the little extra protection. Against burning.

I’m lucky although it’s cold here in SA she was until recently in the garage. So the house is definitely a lot warmer for her and easier to keep the tank heated.
The "new age fibro" is compressed concrete sheet, it looks like fibro but contains none of the asbestos thankfully. I reckon its got a high fireproofing value.


Ask the people in store, but I dont reckon this would burn. But you may have already selected a material.

And yeh I just turfed my last red lamp. At an average of 6-8 weeks a lamp I am off them. But I hope yours work out better!

Cheers
 
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