Spencers monitor care sheet

[cris]

There is virtually no information easily available on their husbandry and it is very clear that heaps of ppl are getting them without knowing how to look after them properly(me included when i first got mine).

So yeah the idea of this thread is to construct a care sheet for spencers monitors to help ppl learn to keep these awesome goannas.

 

[dodgie]

Good idea cris.

I spoke to a lot of people before i got mine and every one i spoke to said they were easy to keep,not for me.I am posting alot about my problem animal but i think it may help other people out aswell as me.

Any experts out there.

 

[cris]

Ok i will do up a basic thing and then ppl ad stuff, correct anything incorrect, ask more questions etc.

General info - name: varanus spenceri, Spencers monitor aka plains goanna.
Lives in clay plains in north western qld and east NT. One of if not the strongest burrowing varanids well adapted to digging through rock hard clay. Eats animals that it can kill or vertebrates it can find dead.

housing - A large fish tank (1200(4') or more) is ideal for raising youngsters.
Adults should be kept in a large area either inside or out. IMO 4x2m would be a suitable minimum for an adult, smaller would be ok but not desirable.

You need to provide plenty of hides and its best to give them something to tunnel in, clay soil is best IMO. They will dig alot and you need to make sure they cant dig out. Having the basking lamp over the soil or hide will allow they monitor to sleep in a warm place. Rocks are good but you need to be extremly careful how they are positioned so that the goanna cant be pinned or crushed. Bricks and besser blocks are great because they are flat so they cant wedge under them and they also can hold a fair amount of heat.

They should be provided a very hot basking site around 60C is good(yes that hot, think how hot the ground gets on a hot day...) Unless in a very cold area this basking heat should be enough alone. If kept outdoors in a warm area with full sun additional heating may not be needed but in many cases a basking lamp may be needed for outdoor enclosures.

feeding - various animals... live insects(generally must be live) and various vetebrate snacks.

captive behaviour - Make great captives and generally dont bite(unless they mistake you for food). They can become used to handling but they still hate it and like their own space(like all goannas).

breeding - They lay heaps of eggs up to 35(possibly more) and can reach breeding size in 1 year(? im fairly sure anyway)

 

[cris]

Redited


General info - name: varanus spenceri, Spencers monitor aka plains goanna.
Lives in clay plains in north western qld and east NT. One of if not the strongest burrowing varanids well adapted to digging through rock hard clay. Eats animals that it can kill or vertebrates it can find dead.

housing - A large fish tank (1200(4') or more) is ideal for raising youngsters.
Adults should be kept in a large area either inside or out. IMO 4x2m would be a suitable minimum for an adult, smaller would be ok but not desirable.

You need to provide plenty of hides and its best to give them something to tunnel in, clay soil is best IMO. They will dig alot and you need to make sure they cant dig out. Having the basking lamp over the soil or hide will allow they monitor to sleep in a warm place. Rocks are good but you need to be extremly careful how they are positioned so that the goanna cant be pinned or crushed. Bricks and besser blocks are great because they are flat so they cant wedge under them and they also can hold a fair amount of heat.

Climbing branches are worth adding but not really needed.

They should be provided a very hot basking site around 60C is good(yes that hot, think how hot the ground gets on a hot day...) Unless in a very cold area this basking heat should be enough alone. If kept outdoors in a warm area with full sun additional heating may not be needed but in many cases a basking lamp may be needed for outdoor enclosures.

feeding - various animals... live invertebrates(generally must be live) and various vertebrate snacks.

captive behaviour - Make great captives and generally dont bite(unless they mistake you for food). They can become used to handling but they still hate it and like their own space(like all goannas). A large specimen could cause serious damage so they must always be treated with caution. A 4kg+ goanna holding on and shaking its weight around would not be cool. Being tame doesnt always stop it from biting with a feeding reaction(just like with a snake). Gennerally they will try and crap on you(they have good aim too) if picked up when not used to handling. They will also hiss and whip you a bit and can also scratch either intentionally by digging their claws in or simply by struggling. Basically treat them with respect and you will get along well.

Mine often charge at the door at feeding time jumping and biting at anything that might be food.

breeding - They lay heaps of eggs up to 35(possibly more) and can reach breeding size in 1 year.

Links
http://mampam.50megs.com/monitors/advice.html
http://mampam.50megs.com/monitors/spenceri.html
http://www.monitor-lizards.net/species/varanus/spenceri.html

 

[richardsc]

great idea cris,u seem to have what id say so far,i havnt kept spencers yet but general monitor husbandry is suitable with regards to them,id treat them like sandies and give them depth to burrow,as they r a burrowing species,thats all id add,looking forward to keeping them though,they sound like great animals

 

[Simon_Archibald]

Spencers are great monitors to keep...amongst the most ferocious when it comes to feeding time. I've kept quite a few, male & female, adults & youngsters and they never fail to launch at food. Considering this, I wonder why they are considered a Class 2 animal in NSW when species such as V.gouldii and V.tristis are Class 1 but in my experience can be quite nervous depending on the individual.

Simon Archibald

 

[dodgie]

Launch for food,i would like to see that.

You have kept them and have had some experience with spencers,are you able to wright up some do's and don'ts it would be appreciated.

I dream of the day that mine decides he will eat well.

 

[Simon_Archibald]

Dodgie,
Alot of what cris wrote (and I only skimmed over it) seems pretty accurate. For juveniles I recommend large plastic tubs (black ones available from the garden section at Bunnings)...floodlamp for heat (100watt) will provide a basking spot of about 50-60 degrees. The rest of the enclosure shouldn't drop below 20 degrees...add some other heating either to the enclosure or the room if temps drop too low.

Red brickies sand is an excellent substrate for burrowing and visual appeal. Rocks and branches provide stimulation as well as allowing the lizards claws to be worn down naturally. Hollow logs should be of a size that allows the lizard to squeeze in and feel secure...they prefer this over any other hide. A small water dish will be utilised but also a light spray with a bottle every 4 days or so will usually prompt the lizards to seek a drink.

Feed every 3 days or so...adult care is all really the same except for the size of the enclosure...front opening enclosures are NOT recommended.

Usually the 2 things that will stop a monitor eating are STRESS or the other being TEMPERATURES TOO LOW. Handling is not really needed or recommended as a usual activity and ensure the enclosure is in an area of the house where not too many people are walking all the time.

Simon Archibald

 

[dodgie]

Thanks Simon
And i forgot to say,Thanks cris.

 

[Tristis]

great idear cris, the only thing i would do is change it from spencers to monitor care sheet as all the basic husbandry is the same and it would apply to almost all captive monitors.
just my 2 cents

 

[herpie boy]

thanks heaps cris for going to the trouble off writting up this care sheet. they are becoming so popular now and its always good to hear opinions and experiences on husbandry.i will be getting mine in a month or so and it has helped alot.

 

[Jonno from ERD]

I have found them to be incredibly bomb proof. I keep mine in a Bunnings 220 litre black tub, with Breeders Choice as a substrate. It's a very simplistic set up, with a 150 watt floodlight providing a ~70 degree basking spot. A small water bowl, and a terracotta hide is the only cage furniture. They gorge themselves on pink rats, chopped liver/heart/brain/kidney, crickets, woodies and occassionaly cat food.

 

[herpie boy]

does anyone know if these guys are on a basic licence in vic

 

[dodgie]

UPDATE ON MY TWO SPENCERS.

My first spencer that i had lots of trouble with(feeding)is now the biggest pig of all she never goes with out a feed and is growing so fast,to fast i think so she is not getting fed as much anymore.

The second spencer is very shy and eats when he feels like it,one week of feeding and two weeks of nothing and not growing very well.

 

[Ella]

Launch for food,i would like to see that.

Itz really quite spectacular to see - especially with a big specimen. Then stand very still and watch as they stop charging and look around in confusion, move slightly and they start charging again - quite amusing. (This has been my experience with only one fella - not sure if they're all the same or if he's just extra special)

 

[Simon_Archibald]

Couldn't agree more Jonno...those black tubs from Bunnings are amongst the best reptile enclosures you can get...versatile for most species of reptile.

Simon Archibald

 

[dodgie]

I have found them to be incredibly bomb proof. I keep mine in a Bunnings 220 litre black tub, with Breeders Choice as a substrate. It's a very simplistic set up, with a 150 watt floodlight providing a ~70 degree basking spot. A small water bowl, and a terracotta hide is the only cage furniture. They gorge themselves on pink rats, chopped liver/heart/brain/kidney, crickets, woodies and occassionaly cat food.

Jonno & Simon could you two post a couple of pic's please to give me/us some ideas.