i live in south-east queensland just above the border of new south whales and thanks for telling me about them not coping on the eastern sea board also i don't know what the eastern sea board is i'm still in school i'm 14.
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I know a bit about geckos i did lots of research before I found out about them being so difficult I was doing a report on them here is what I did.
Barking Gecko (Underwoodisaurus milii)
FACTS AND HOW TO CARE.
This document is full of the research that I have found through google, I will not copy and paste large sections of it except some that I cannot rewrite myself. The links that I have used will be at the end of the document.
Barking Geckos are native to Southern Australia, they are terrestrial geckos(Ground dwelling), from a variety of areas like, wet coastal areas, leaf-covered forests, dry woodlands, to arid scrublands consisting of hard-packed soil(Dirt).
The Barking Geckos (Thick-tailed Geckos) of the family Carphodactylidae live in groups and like to to seek shelter in warm concealed dwellings.
It has been reclassified 22 since its discovery back in 1823. Its scientific name Underwoodisaurus milii was overturned to Nephrurus milii in 1990, then back to U.milii then again to N.milii and is once again back to U.milii and it has been since 2011.
They are also known to be active climbers.
They can grow to around 4 inches from snout-to-vent, with a tail close to that.They can as adults weigh about 14 to 20 grams, some weighing 25 grams.
They are not truly dimorphic, as males and females tend to be of similar size. Preanal pores are absent in males, but their gender is obvious as adult males have disproportionately large hemipenes just under their vent at the underside of the tail base.(Copied as I couldn’t find my own words)
They are great characters full of personality and attitude.
In the wild the geckos have been seen basking in full and shaded sunlight mostly in the afternoon.*
They are a cool climate gecko around the 25-27 degree mark, not tolerating heat above 30 degrees.
Australian barking geckos can be housed in rack systems or in naturalistic terrarium-type habitats. As a general rule, allow a minimum space of 12 inches long by 12 inches wide of surface area per adult barking gecko. Given that they are primarily terrestrial, the height only needs to be 9 to 12 inches tall.(Copied as I couldn’t find my own words)
When the Geckos lay their eggs they will bury them to keep them safe, they won’t stay with them they will just go on their way.
IMPORTANT!: When handling Gecko eggs or any lizard eggs for that matter never turn them over keep them in the position in which they were laid, failing to do this will lead to the air bubble supplying oxygen to the embryo moving and the embryo drowning!(Marking the eggs with texter to show how they were laid will not harm the and will potentially save them from drowning.).
Glass aquariums are quite beneficial, for one when misting the enclosure droplets of water will condense on the walls that the gecko will lick off, and no matter how much water is sprayed the enclosure is unaffected. You do not need lids because the geckos are unable to climb out, also having no lid reduces noise at feeding time, which often makes the geckos hide and, and having no lid provides maximum ventilation.
Since these geckos live in sandy, loamy soil, they don’t have the problem of intestinal impaction like many other species of geckos.So using about half to 1-inch layer or 50% fine-grade, non-silica sand and 50% sifted, sphagnum peat moss (without fertiliser), in the bottom of the enclosure will give a more natural substrate, allowing the gecko to dig and keep appropriate thermal conditions and relative humidity.You must keep the cool side of their enclosure slightly moist by mist with water two to three times a week, letting the gecko lick the water droplets the side walls because they don’t always wants to drink from the bowls.
*Barking geckos eyes are very sensitive and their eyesight weak in bright light so don’t ever expose them to direct sunlight.
They will tolerate small amounts of handling, and when handling the gecko have slow movements, so offer your hand slowly, palm up before picking them up. Do not reach down above them as they may startle thinking it is a predator. NEVER grab their tail, as do all lizards do when threatened they will “drop” their tails and when that happens they become vulnerable to infection.
They mainly eat live crickets and roach nymphs. Do not give them anything bigger than three quarters the size of their head otherwise they may choke, baby should be fed 3-4 small crickets or roaches every other day until they grow to two inches in length, then slightly larger prey every other day until they become full-grown in about 12-18 months. Adults can be fed 5-6 larger crickets or roaches every three days. Barking geckos like variety, they do not like eating from bowls much. They will lick moisture from the walls on the cool side of their enclosure after misting, however if you don’t mist then you must provide a water bowl.
Food for your geckos must be dusted with a mixture ultra-fine calcium powder ever 2 or 3 feedings and reptile vitamins once a week.
INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO DUST (BOTH CALCIUM AND REP.VITA)
ut calcium powder in a zip-lock bag or commercial cricket duster and "dust" live food items prior to feeding by shaking them gently in the bag or container until they are coated. Vitamins should be given weekly using the same method.(Copied as I couldn’t find my own words). WARNING: DO NOT FORGET THE CALCIUM AND VITAMIN OR YOUR GECKO WILL BE PERMANENTLY DISFIGURED OR WILL DIE!
You should feed your live crickets on whole grain cereal, oatmeal, squash, pumpkin, sweet potatoes, collard greens, and a slice of red potato for water. Roaches should be fed on high protein food like Ferret food.
And if you are going to add new geckos to your colony you must quarantine it for 30-90 days but preferably 90 days. Failure to do so could end up with the transfer of disease or parasites.
HEALTH ISSUES:
- Intestinal parasites(E.G.Ring worm)
- Metabolic bone disease(Calcium deficiency)
- Dysecdysis(Skin infection from not shedding properly)
- Respiratory infections(Caused by stress, low temp, high humidity and dust from calcium)
- Hypervitaminosis(Too much vitamin A)
LINKS USED:
http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Australian-Barking-Gecko-Care-Sheet/
http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Tips-For-The-Australian-Barking-Gecko/
http://www.hi-tekaquariums.com.au/terrestrial-gecko-care-guide/
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=...DH5QKHfooDH4Q_AUICSgA&biw=1022&bih=1055&dpr=2
A Special thanks to
The Australian Thick-Tailed Gecko Lovers and
Greg Bourke for the help I had from them.
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IfI end up getting one then I wouldn't let it have free range of the house as we have cats my cat I wouldn't worry about it's my mums(he a hunter he once bolted out the door to take on an ibis) i'd worry about but i'd let it run around my room with the door closed is that ok? If I do should I block under my door and chest of draws with my clothes?
[doublepost=1529888351][/doublepost]Mostly my mum persists on me doing more on the project to look at getting one, I won't disobey her so i'm going to research more on it I think it's almost done.
[doublepost=1529892622][/doublepost] . Here is what it is now others some pointed stuff out
Barking Gecko (Underwoodisaurus milii)
FACTS AND HOW TO CARE.
This document is full of the research that I have found through google, I will not copy and paste large sections of it except some that I cannot rewrite myself. The links that I have used will be at the end of the document.
Barking Geckos are found all over Australia, there are three sub species off thick-tailed gecko the underwoodisaurus milii, husbandi, and sphyrurus. They are terrestrial geckos(Ground dwelling), from a variety of areas like, wet coastal areas, leaf-covered forests, dry woodlands, to arid scrublands consisting of hard-packed soil(Dirt).
The Barking Geckos (Thick-tailed Geckos) of the family Carphodactylidae live in groups and like to to seek shelter in warm concealed dwellings.
It has been reclassified 22 since its discovery back in 1823. Its scientific name Underwoodisaurus milii was overturned to Nephrurus milii in 1990, then back to U.milii then again to N.milii and is once again back to U.milii and it has been since 2011.
They are also known to be active climbers.
They can grow to around 4 inches from snout-to-vent, with a tail close to that.They can as adults weigh about 14 to 20 grams, some weighing 25 grams.
They are not truly dimorphic, as males and females tend to be of similar size. Preanal pores are absent in males, but their gender is obvious as adult males have disproportionately large hemipenes just under their vent at the underside of the tail base.(Copied as I couldn’t find my own words)
They are great characters full of personality and attitude.
In the wild the geckos have been seen basking in full and shaded sunlight mostly in the afternoon.*
They are a cool climate gecko around the 25-27 degree mark, not tolerating heat above 30 degrees.
Australian barking geckos can be housed in rack systems or in naturalistic terrarium-type habitats. As a general rule, allow a minimum space of 12 inches long by 12 inches wide of surface area per adult barking gecko. Given that they are primarily terrestrial, the height only needs to be 9 to 12 inches tall.(Copied as I couldn’t find my own words)
When the Geckos lay their eggs they will bury them to keep them safe, they won’t stay with them they will just go on their way.
IMPORTANT!: When handling Gecko eggs or any lizard eggs for that matter never turn them over keep them in the position in which they were laid, failing to do this will lead to the air bubble supplying oxygen to the embryo moving and the embryo drowning!(Marking the eggs with texter to show how they were laid will not harm the and will potentially save them from drowning.).
Glass aquariums are quite beneficial, for one when misting the enclosure droplets of water will condense on the walls that the gecko will lick off, and no matter how much water is sprayed the enclosure is unaffected. You do not need lids because the geckos are unable to climb out, also having no lid reduces noise at feeding time, which often makes the geckos hide and, and having no lid provides maximum ventilation.
Since these geckos live in sandy, loamy soil, they don’t have as much of a problem of intestinal impaction like many other species of geckos.So using about half to 1-inch layer or 50% fine-grade, non-silica sand and 50% sifted, sphagnum peat moss (without fertiliser), in the bottom of the enclosure will give a more natural substrate, allowing the gecko to dig and keep appropriate thermal conditions and relative humidity.You must keep the cool side of their enclosure slightly moist by mist with water two to three times a week, letting the gecko lick the water droplets the side walls because they don’t always wants to drink from the bowls.
*Barking geckos eyes are very sensitive and their eyesight weak in bright light so don’t ever expose them to direct sunlight.
They will tolerate small amounts of handling, and when handling the gecko have slow movements, so offer your hand slowly, palm up before picking them up. Do not reach down above them as they may startle thinking it is a predator. NEVER grab their tail, as most lizards do when threatened they will “drop” their tails and when that happens they become vulnerable to infection.
They mainly eat live crickets and roach nymphs. Do not give them anything bigger than three quarters the size of their head otherwise they may choke, baby should be fed 3-4 small crickets or roaches every other day until they grow to two inches in length, then slightly larger prey every other day until they become full-grown in about 12-18 months. Adults can be fed 5-6 larger crickets or roaches every three days. Barking geckos like variety, they do not like eating from bowls much. They will lick moisture from the walls on the cool side of their enclosure after misting, however if you don’t mist then you must provide a water bowl.
Food for your geckos must be dusted with a mixture ultra-fine calcium powder ever 2 or 3 feedings and reptile vitamins once a week.
INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO DUST (BOTH CALCIUM AND REP.VITA)
ut calcium powder in a zip-lock bag or commercial cricket duster and "dust" live food items prior to feeding by shaking them gently in the bag or container until they are coated. Vitamins should be given weekly using the same method.(Copied as I couldn’t find my own words). WARNING: DO NOT FORGET THE CALCIUM AND VITAMIN OR YOUR GECKO WILL BE PERMANENTLY DISFIGURED OR WILL DIE!
You should feed your live crickets on whole grain cereal, oatmeal, squash, pumpkin, sweet potatoes, collard greens, and a slice of red potato for water. Roaches should be fed on high protein food like Ferret food.
And if you are going to add new geckos to your colony you must quarantine it for 30-90 days but preferably 90 days. Failure to do so could end up with the transfer of disease or parasites.
HEALTH ISSUES:
- Intestinal parasites(E.G.Ring worm)
- Metabolic bone disease(Calcium deficiency)
- Dysecdysis(Skin infection from not shedding properly)
- Respiratory infections(Caused by stress, low temp, high humidity and dust from calcium)
- Hypervitaminosis(Too much vitamin A)
LINKS USED:
http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Australian-Barking-Gecko-Care-Sheet/
http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Tips-For-The-Australian-Barking-Gecko/
http://www.hi-tekaquariums.com.au/terrestrial-gecko-care-guide/
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=...DH5QKHfooDH4Q_AUICSgA&biw=1022&bih=1055&dpr=2
A Special thanks to
The Australian Thick-Tailed Gecko Lovers and
Greg Bourke for the help I had from them.
