Where do people stand

Discussion in 'Australian Snakes' started by Reptiles78, Apr 9, 2014.

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  1. Reptiles78

    Reptiles78 New Member

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    Hi
    As winter is getting nearer should I let my spotted python berenate (sorry can't spell) and turn the heat off? Or should I reduce the hours that the heat is on? Or leave it how it is at 12 hrs a day. Advice would be great thanks.:)
     
  2. andynic07

    andynic07 Very Well-Known Member

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    I brumate mine every winter and do so by reducing the heat period from 12hours a day to 8 hours a day. I give it a week after the last feed then reduce the heat period by one hour a week until it is down to 8 hours. I don't believe that there is a need to brumate though, many do not brumate and don't seem to have problems but I also have not had any problems brumating.
     
  3. Reptiles78

    Reptiles78 New Member

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    Ok thanks I will do that slowly reduce the heat. He is due for a feed on Saturday I will do it after that.
     
  4. andynic07

    andynic07 Very Well-Known Member

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    Make sure the meal is fully digested before you reduce the heat though.
     
  5. Reptiles78

    Reptiles78 New Member

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    Ok will do thanks
     
  6. Trimeresurus

    Trimeresurus Guest

    If you don't need to and don't fully understand it, don't bother with it, your snake could just end up sick if you cool too hard.
     
  7. Reptiles78

    Reptiles78 New Member

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    oh ok I don't want him to get sick so your saying leave it as it is
     
  8. AllThingsReptile

    AllThingsReptile Very Well-Known Member

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    Brumation is only really necessary if you intend to breed
     
  9. butters

    butters Well-Known Member

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    It's a single snake, won't be breeding so why bother?
    safer for the snake if you just continue as normal with no real cool down.

    If it was a pair and you wanted to breed them then it may be beneficial but in this case I wouldn't bother.
     
  10. Reptiles78

    Reptiles78 New Member

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    Ok thanks guys I won't worry about it he just a single snake with no plans to breed him.
     
  11. bdav70

    bdav70 Guest

    I've currently got a stimsons hatchie that's almost 4 months old, he's got a heat cord that's 32-34 degrees on the hot end which is running 24-7, is this recommended approaching winter? I figure while he's still a hatchie constant heat on the warm end is the way to go, though I had been meaning to ask, anyone got any experience and/or better ideas on this?


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  12. butters

    butters Well-Known Member

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    As for the thread poster if you aren't going to breed it then don't cool it. As it's a hatchling too it's much better for the snake if you don't. Just keep things the way they are and both you and the snake will probably be happier.
     
  13. Becceles

    Becceles Guest

    I didn't change anything for my stimmie male last year and he went into brumation (?) on his own accord. He didn't eat from April until October and was no worse off because of it.
     
  14. Lawra

    Lawra Come here Squishy! Subscriber

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    My snakes are all over 12 months old now so I'm looking into brumation.

    I've often seen keepers suggest that brumation is only necessary if the intention is to breed them...

    From what I've read, wouldn't brumation be beneficial regardless since it's natural and encourage longevity?

    I'm a total newbie and have been thinking I'll just leave the heat as it is since their enclosures are big enough that there will continue to be a thermal gradient if they so choose to cool down.

    In saying that, I am in QLD and our minimum winter temperature is about 15 degrees.

    Can someone offer some advice regarding my concept of this whole thing - is it acceptable or do I have the wrong end of the stick completely?
     
  15. Umbral

    Umbral Very Well-Known Member

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    If your enclosure has a decent heat gradient it may just find the right spot and go into brumation regardless of what temp the hot spot is.
     
  16. andynic07

    andynic07 Very Well-Known Member

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    I don't brumate any snakes under 12 months of age and provide them heat 24/7. Some snakes will cool themselves anyway when it comes to winter as Lawra and Umbral suggested with the shorter light period and cooler ambients. I have heard that it has a lot to do with the photoperiod and some people have bred reptiles out of season by controlling this completely.
     
  17. Lawra

    Lawra Come here Squishy! Subscriber

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    Bah! That just makes me think of battery hens.
     
  18. andynic07

    andynic07 Very Well-Known Member

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    Sort of but not quite, I am sure the people keep their snakes in the same conditions as they would but control the environment. I am not sure what purpose this would serve as I don't think it would be advisable to get two clutches per year as there would be a big strain on the female. I think it was just done out of curiosity but do not know the people so can't really comment as to why.


    Edit: Also on the battery hen comment, there could also be some parallels drawn to feeding year round and not brumating. Not that I have anything against doing that nor do I think it is cruel or harmful.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2014
  19. Lawra

    Lawra Come here Squishy! Subscriber

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    [MENTION=34534]andynic07[/MENTION] chill man :) it's just the first thing that came to mind, a passing comment if you will, not meant to offend or pass judgement on anyone.

    Perhaps we should look to the elders in our community who have been keeping longer than the average 20-30 year life span of pythons for what health trends they have noticed in brumating/non brumating reptiles.
     
  20. andynic07

    andynic07 Very Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I wasn't getting upset or offended. Just making sure the facts were clear that I don't think the people who were trialing this thought I was insinuating that the snakes were kept in bad conditions.


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