Woma Python Heating - Cant get cage above 25-26 (hot spot)

Discussion in 'Herp Help' started by steverokh, Jun 12, 2016.

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  1. cagey

    cagey Subscriber Subscriber

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    I waited a month and, as I have a front opening enclosure, I open the glass door and let it come out. As it comes out I support it with my hands until it is free of the enclosure. I normally handle to get the snakes out for major enclosure cleaning. At this time of the year, with snakes brumating I may not handle them for 2-3 months.
     
  2. steverokh

    steverokh Not so new Member

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    Yeah i'll wait about a week, then feed, and then 2-3 days before handling and making it a daily regular 5 minute handle session.
    [MENTION=24657]cagey[/MENTION] - how's your woma cage setup (size, material, lamp/mat/cord?)

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    Another question I have - since my Woma is new, when I get home he just pops his head out of his hide and stares at me for a few mins, this is normal and hes just checking me out right? Hes a little shy to fully come out of his hide, and when I put a snake hook near him, he just crawls back inside. Doesnt look like any aggression (not that I know snake movement very well, but not high up, just pops his head and is about 3-5cm off the ground, no S formation, just a straight neck and putting his tongue out)

    I tried to check for normal Woma behaviour on the site and couldn't find too much, sorry for all the questions!
     
  3. cagey

    cagey Subscriber Subscriber

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    Woma Enclosure.jpg

    Sorry re the delay. The enclosure is 1200x600x600mm. There is a ceramic lamp on the left creating a heated area of 33 degrees (32-34) dependent on the day on the lower left ledge.
     
  4. SKYWLKR

    SKYWLKR Active Member

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    Thats just natural behaviour. When you are at home and you hear a noise outside (especially when its been quiet for some time), what do you do? You open the curtains and look to see whats making the noise. Just like Homer is doing!

    (and dont worry about the snake hook too much. Your hands are way warmer and natural than a metal hook. Dont be afraid!)
     
  5. alichamp

    alichamp Active Member

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    Jamie, I've seen you suggest this a few times now, think you could post a pic of what that setup looks like? The cord/tile sandwich goes inside the enclosure right? How does the electrical chord go through to the outside and the power point? Does the cord connect to a thermostat? Thanks! And sorry for all the dumb questions ;)
     
  6. SKYWLKR

    SKYWLKR Active Member

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    Not dumb. Im curious too. From what I understood... it would be the two tiles bound together not unlike a sandwich, with the heat cord zig-zagging in between them. Then the cord having an exit point through the enclosure wall and then connected to a pulse thermostat?
     
  7. Wokka

    Wokka Well-Known Member APS Veteran

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    For bottom heat you will need about 15-20 watts to provide the temperatures required. I use 13 watt matts and achieve 32C on tiles in melonite cages. I agree wit Jamie that mats probably have more risk than cord although it depends upon quality and since the decisions in this discussion seem to be price driven cord might be a better bet. A cord sandwiched between 2 tiles acts very similar to a mat but has the added advantedge of a more robust non conductive cover over the electrical element and so is less likely to cause fires. You can buy cheap green heat mats which feature in many cages showing scorch marks and burns from shorting out. If you keep wattage to the minimum required to achieve the heat you don't need a thermostat which is a saving on the initial purchase and one less thing to go wrong.cheapest is not best but then again dearest may often be not much better!
     
  8. jsmith

    jsmith Not so new Member

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    as wokka said above its all about the quality you get. i have 5w heat mat (hatchie enclosure) i just ensure it is off the ground (stuck to the bottom of a glass enclosure). in winter in adelaide keeps the enclosure at 30c during the day around 34c. pay for a good one once is my advice

    Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk
     
  9. Raymonde

    Raymonde Active Member

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    you should probably wait 4-5 days after feeding before handling again as it takes some time for them to digest the food item. It does depend on the size of the food but one way to tell is how reactive he is. If he is moving around and looking at you and flicking his tongue is is probably ready to be held. If he is still curled up or hiding and not coming out at all then he is probably still digesting. My woma also often goes into shed mode after some feeds and doesn't like to be disturbed till she has shed.

    they can last a while without food so don't stress about needing to feed straight away.

    Raymonde
     
  10. steverokh

    steverokh Not so new Member

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    I fed him, he took about 3 seconds to take it and about a minute to digest. He is pretty casual though doesnt like being held yet (not aggressive) he just slithers away really quickly if i try to pick him up, so just giving him time to settle and see how mid-week / late next week goes.
     
  11. SKYWLKR

    SKYWLKR Active Member

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    About a minute to digest? Id up the food size one notch. And the fact that he's trying to "escape" your grasp is simple behaviour for a juvenile animal of any species. You'll know when he is ready to be handled like you said, because it will be when your confidence matches his mood.
     
  12. steverokh

    steverokh Not so new Member

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    he was a hungry little woma. Hes 6 months old and I fed him a fully grown mouse. I dont think I need to up his food size haha.. Especially that I have a De Grey Woma (or Pilbara Woma) which grow to a max of 1.2m (smaller than the average bear)

    But yeah once my confidence grows his will too. He's very curious through the glass, but not so much when the glass is open.
     
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