Yearling Jungle not eating

Discussion in 'Australian Snakes' started by DeanoCFE, Mar 3, 2014.

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  1. 123snake123

    123snake123 New Member

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    You could try split head feeding by splitting the mouses head, or put the snake in a small container with air holes and put the container in the closed cage.it could also be a phase that about a year into their life


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  2. DeanoCFE

    DeanoCFE Not so new Member

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    Thanks guys, Im going to try and feed him again tomorrow morning and Ill let you all know how it goes!
    Thanks for all the advice!!!
     
  3. JAS101

    JAS101 Very Well-Known Member

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    I assume your measuring the floor temp and not the air temp ?
     
  4. DeanoCFE

    DeanoCFE Not so new Member

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    I have tried feeding again, tried splitting the head of the mouse as well and he still won't feed, what do i do next? do i try quail or try force feeding?
     
  5. turtle

    turtle Well-Known Member

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    If you have been trying mice then try rats or vis versa.
    Also make sure they are nice and warm when you feed them.
    If this doesn't work try live.

    Cheers, Dan
     
  6. Amynickid

    Amynickid Not so new Member

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    try him on rats, the breeder may have already had him on rats, try scenting themwith chicken or mice even. try different techniques, if he wont strike at it try rowl him up z bit poke his tail/ head every now and then with the food. make it rustle around enclosure, hold it right against his face and move it backwards and repeat. if these dont work. its not your heat. he may be sick. these hides are fine what u have dw. my jungle had the exact one when he was a baby. he was also a poop head to get from mice to rats, he rejected food alot now without fail he eats every week

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    and ys split the head or wound the head so it bleeds. blood nearly always causes a reaction

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    yep defrost in warm water the rats. if that does not work. try live..watch them closely as live feeding could end up with the prey being the predator.... last resort. take to vet.
     
  7. Rlpreston

    Rlpreston Well-Known Member

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    Do not try 'live' feeding! There is especially no need for it in this case! Plenty of safe options to try out!

    Have you tried leaving the prey in over night and covering the enclosure with a towel? Might help if the python is nervous. There are a lot of good suggestions here (and a couple not so good) but assist feeding would be the very last resort for a snake that would otherwise die.

    I had a coastal yearling who would only take quail for a while after going off rats.
    He was seen by a vet who said once they have lost significant weight (he suggested 10%) it is time for drastic measures but before that he offered a shot of B12 to stimulate appetite and took quail two days later.

    I would suggest trying all available pre-killed prey options and perhaps seeing a reptile vet if all fails.

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  8. As Rams says, I think your biggest problem is heat-loss through the top of the tub. It will retain no heat at all, so the air in the tub wull always be at ambient room temperature, which at this time of the year is fairly cool, especially at night. In the absence of disease, Carpet feeding problems are nearly always temperature related. As another member suggested, try covering the enclosure with a towel or something similar to reduce heat-loss through the top.

    And just to reiterate what the previous poster has said... DO NOT resort to live-feeding - a snake which has started on thawed food will not suddenly decide that live food is better.

    Jamie
     
  9. DeanoCFE

    DeanoCFE Not so new Member

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    Thanks for all the help and advice guys! I split the head of the mouse the other night and left it in there for about an hour and when I came back in it was gone! I left him overnight and then checked on him the next day and he had eaten the mouse! IM SO HAPPY NOW!
    Will try and feed him again next week and hopefully he takes it without any hassle!
    Once again guys thanks heaps!
     
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