DIY Bar fridge incubator - How to get heatcord, thermostat probes etc into fridge

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killimike

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I am planning on upgrading from a styro box to a bar fridge incubator. I have bought a 120l bar fridge, and I have the heat cord, thermometer and a PP thermostat. There are heaps of threads on here about the general idea, but I had a question about how exactly to physically introduce the various leads into the inside of the fridge.

There seems to be three options to me:

1. Pass all leads through the door, and use a child-lock type device to keep door sealed

2. Drill a hole through the side of the body, pass leads through then plug it up

3. Pass leads in through vent that is normally connected to compressor

I do not want to do number 1.

Number 3 doesn't involve drilling a surplus hole, but to be perfectly honest I have never taken a fridge apart before. Other threads refer to 'disconnecting/removing the compressor/innards'.... exactly how involved is this, and how is it done?

Or do people just go in straight through the side?

I would appreciate you guys' advice :)
 
Ive drilled 2 individual holes in the side of the fridge for both the heat cord and the thermostat probe to go into. Works fine for me mate.
IMG_4938.jpg
 
I just close the door on my leads and don't have any trouble. Maybe that is because it is a bigger and rather dodgy old fridge, but it seals around the cords.
 
I just close the door on my leads and don't have any trouble. Maybe that is because it is a bigger and rather dodgy old fridge, but it seals around the cords.

Thanks pythonmum! Mummabear does the same thing, only uses a childlock to keep the door closed. Unf with my little bar fridge the door definitely wouldnt stay closed on its own. And I just prefer not to have to mess around with anything to open and close the door... tho it would be make sure the door does come open some how.. decisions decisions! :D
 
I use a wine fridge so I was lucky enough that it had a hole at the bottom for condensation run-off and I passed the cord through there (just ahd to bore it a bit bigger). Another alternative mate which I have seen people do if you don't want to put holes in the fridge is to cut little slits on the door seals themselves and pass the cords through there (hinge side). Just make sure there's enough slack to account for the door swing. I did that for my thermo probe on mine and works fine. The booldy thing still works as a wine cooler when I'm not cooking eggs.
 
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Smithers just suggested the same thing actually RI :) I will actually go look at it and see how it might work. Just in my head tho, the cord I think is gonna be the most trouble is the thermostat probe, they are just so much bulkier than heatcord or thermometer probes. We will see tho!
 
Smithers just suggested the same thing actually RI :) I will actually go look at it and see how it might work. Just in my head tho, the cord I think is gonna be the most trouble is the thermostat probe, they are just so much bulkier than heatcord or thermometer probes. We will see tho!

LOL yeah Brett got that from me hehe... Should'nt be too much of a bother mate as once it's in you can just tape the probe to a rack or the side wall, it won't move to much then. It's not like you'll be swing the door full open anyway so movement of the cords is'nt an issue.
 
There should be a hole down the bottom to allow condensation to drain out (As suggested by Red-Ink). This is what I used in a similar sized bar fridge to get the heat cord in, no need for extra holes. There should be no need to remove the compressor (mine still operates as a fridge if need be).
 
I will definitely look for this condensation drain! Too tempting to go muck about w it right now, but I have that much data to code today...
 
Mike, just drill through the sides or back and then seal the hole(s) with expanda foam.
 
I drilled a hole in the back of mine then just siliconed it up.
3aa92b7c-2134-c84e.jpg



Cheers Brenton
 
I just recently made an incubater exactly like yours and I ran everything through the whole at the back which the gas lines ran through. I then ran the lines down the back and mounted them with wire clips screwed to the back which enables me to easily remove the heat cord if it ever stops etc. By doing this it prevented me making more holes in my fridge to seal and also means all cords etc will be located at the back out of the way. Hooked it all up the other day and tested temps and it sat at 30.5 varying by 0.3 degrees when i opened the door and with the hole not filled in the back (will fill in when all thermometers etc are set up).

2 Quick questions (sorry to hijack thread)
does anyone remove the plugs from the thermostat and heat sord and wire them directly? would this be risky?
other thing is has anyone mounted their thermostat at the back of the fridge where the compressed gas and stuff were in the bottom and if so is it annoying to adjust or is it worth doing?
Cheers Tim
 
:D Only this was more like growing by sharing.....


That would be great, thanks man!

Here you go Mike... (and Smithers)

The condensation run off hole we were talking about, I bore it out a bit bigger to 10mm to fit the heat cord head.
d4db2b3d.jpg


The way the cord is fed through the inc, tape together with aluminium tape.
c9f81e3b.jpg


Thermometer and Thermostat probe placements, white is the thermo and the black on the side wall is the stat.
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How the cords are fed through the door seals (small incision on the hinge side)

inside view
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Outside view
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Both cords on the side of the inc (perfect seal still achieved)
b8a37ee7.jpg


Hope that helps mate.
 
Looks great Red Ink.
JungleGuy - I would not try to wire things up directly for two reasons. The first is that you are being too risky with the electronics. The second is that my incubator thermostat becomes a thermostat for my hatchlings after it has done its job in the incubator. My thermostats move around a fair bit.;)

I also put my temp probe in the egg container so I know exactly what is going on there. They can generate a bit of heat, especially later in incubation, so I monitor them directly.
 
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