care sheets needed asap
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dodgie
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This is the only article i have been able to find.I am also trying to find more info.
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INTRODUCTION
The following paper is a brief outline on how to care for monitor lizards in a zoo situation. Because of the wide variety of species within the family, more detailed research will be required by any institution or individual intending to keep specific species to ensure their continued good health through proper husbandry.
OVERVIEW OF THE VARANIDAE
Currently there are 40-50 species recognised, the taxonomy is presently in a state of flux so that no exact figure can be given at this time. There is only one genus, Varanus, although a number of sub genera are recognised, for example the so called Dwarf Monitors are often put in the sub genus odatria.
Australia is home to approximately half the world’s species of monitor lizard, or, as they idea, they are called here, Goannas. The world’s largest lizard is a member of the Varanidae, the Komodo Dragon (Varanus komodoensis). It reaches to between 3 and 3.5 metres in length and around 80kg in weight. Australia’s largest lizard is also a Varanid, the Perentie (Varanus giganteus), reaching perhaps 2 to 2.5 metres and 20kg in weight. The smallest member of the family is Varanus brevicauda, reaching a maximum of 23cm in length and weighing only 20gms. All of today’s monitor lizards are dwarfed by an extinct Australian varanid, Megalania prisca. Fossil records indicate it may have reached 6 metres in length and 650kg in weight. Larger than most saltwater crocodiles, it is thought to have survived until 15-20 thousand years ago.
Monitor lizards are found in Africa, Asia, Australasia and the Pacific Islands, but are absent from most of Europe and the Americas. Their habitat ranges from mangrove and tropical rainforest to arid deserts to which many have become superbly adapted. Most are fast moving predators or scavengers, feeding on a wide range of animals from small insects to, in the case of the Komodo Dragon, large mammalian prey. They are almost totally carnivorous, with the notable exception of Gray’s Monitor (Varanus olivaceous), whose diet is 60% fruit and 40% mollusc.
Monitor lizards appear to have played their part in myth and legend. It is quite possible that the fire-breathing dragon of eastern mythology originates from the yellow, flicking tongue of the Komodo Dragon.
CAPTIVE HUSBANDRY
Which species should be held in captivity? Relatively little is known about monitor lizards, so for the time being we should be concentrating our husbandry techniques on those animals that are already in captivity before bringing in new species from the wild. The smaller the species, the easier it is to house as less space is required. However, many of the smaller species are swift, agile animals and can easily elude the inexperienced handler or cause a painful bite. Larger species, such as Lace Monitors and Perenties, need much larger enclosures and can inflict horrendous injuries with both tooth and claw and should not be handled by inexperienced keepers. A basic rule that is used by some institutions, and the Department of Primary Industries is that inexperienced keepers are not allowed access to monitors in excess of one metre in length.
HOUSING
Ideally the animals should be housed out of doors if the climate allows, although this is not practicable for the display of the smaller species. All monitors are able to climb (even the largest species) and they are prolific diggers, therefore the enclosure walls must be clad or made from a material they are unable to climb (such as sheet metal). The enclosure floor should be constructed to prevent subterranean escape (concrete floor covered by substrate or welded mesh will do). Many species will also jump to freedom (normally as a last resort), therefore cage furniture such as logs, trees, rocks, etc., should not be used too close to the enclosure walls to prevent this method of escape.
The size of the enclosure depends on the size of the animal or animals to be housed, but as a basis rule of thumb, the enclosure should be three times the length of the longest animal long and twice the length of the longest animal wide. Height of the enclosure is obviously not a concern for outdoor displays, however, inside careful consideration must be given to the type of animal being housed. For example, a cage for an arboreal animal will need to be taller to accommodate climbing branches than for a wholly terrestrial or semi aquatic animal. The same principles apply whether the enclosure is on display or off, although for display purposes the enclosure and all cage furniture must be aesthetically pleasing.
HEATING, LIGHTING AND CAGE FURNITURE
As with all reptiles, monitor lizards are ectothermic and, therefore, for species kept indoors or in regions that re cooler than their normal range, supplementary heating must be available.
Heating can be provided by either reflector globes or ceramic heaters. If reflector globes are used, they should be coloured either blue or red by spray painting them with engine enamel (to withstand the high temperatures). This allows the heat source to remain on during the hours of darkness with minimal disruption to the animal’s normal sleeping pattern. The wattage of globe used depends on the size of the cage and the proximity of the nearest basking spot to the heat source. A good temperature range is a hot spot of 45C and a cool area of no warmer than 30C. This range allows a good gradient for the lizards to choose their own preferred temperature. These parameters may need to be adjusted depending on the species being kept.
Not much is known of the need or effects of ultra violet radiation on monitor lizards, but as they are active, diurnal animals, it should be assumed that some exposure would be beneficial. This can be achieved by using dedicated reptile fluorescent lamps and/or regular sunning.
Cage Furniture depends on the species being kept, arboreal species will need branches to climb on, whilst aquatic species require a larger water source so they can immerse themselves fully. If rocks or other heavy objects are placed in the enclosure, care must be taken that they are resting directly on the enclosure floor and not just substrate. As already mentioned, most monitor lizards are prolific diggers, too much digging under a large rock could cause it to fall onto the animal and kill it.
Water bowls should be included for each enclosure and although many monitors will not drink from their bowls, they do occasionally like to soak in them. Daily misting is also recommended, as many lizards prefer to drink water droplets from their own body and enclosure wall than from the water bowl.
HANDLING
This should be avoided as much as possible. Handling causes stress to both the animal and the keeper and can also cause injury to both. If an animal has to be restrained, slowly and gently are the key words. Sudden movements can startle the animals, causing chaos as they charge around their enclosure trying to escape. For the smaller monitors, grasping their whole body in your hand whilst using thumb and forefinger to control the neck and head, is the best method. For larger species, grasping the animal from behind by the neck and base of the tail simultaneously is recommended. Never attempt to pick up a large monitor by the base of the tail alone. Contrary to popular belief they can swing themselves up and bite you on the hand. Wearing a stout pair of leather gloves, such as welding gloves, whilst handling the larger species is a good idea. This saves your hands and forearms from the deep lacerations some can cause with their claws.
FEEDING
A wide range of food items will be eaten by monitor lizards, from insects such as crickets and hoppers to rats, rabbits and chickens. The smaller species are generally insectivorous, though they will take other prey. If feeding insects such as crickets and roaches, the prey should be no larger than ½ to 2/3 the size of the lizard’s head and dusted with vitamin and mineral powder at least once a week, preferably twice (especially for breeding females). Frequency of feeding depends on the time of year, two to three times a week is adequate for most of the year, whilst daily feeding is recommended during breeding season.
For the larger species, a wide variety of food can be offered. Even the largest species will eat insects, although it is often easier and more efficient to feed rats, mice or chicks. Some institutions feed ‘reptile sausage’, a mix of lean meat, bran, eggs and vitamins and minerals, which is fed to all species. Frequency of feeding again depends on the time of year, once a week is sufficient during the cooler months and twice a week during the warmer months.
BREEDING
Before breeding can be attempted, it is important to condition the animals to be bred. Photoperiod, heat and the availability of food and water all seem to play a part in successful breeding. Prior to the breeding season, the males and females should be separated; the photoperiod, heat, food and water all reduced to simulate an over-wintering period. The time and duration of over-wintering is dependent on the species being kept. Attempt to simulate the natural conditions of the animal’s habitat as much as possible. When the conditioning period is finished, increase heat, photoperiod, food and water and introduce the male to the female’s enclosure. Introducing the female to the make can have serious consequences; the male may be extremely aggressive to the female and could possibly kill her if he sees her as an interloper to his territory.
If mating occurs, it can go on for many days. During mating, provide privacy for the animals as too many disturbances can cause them to abandon mating. Once the female becomes gravid, she will look for a spot to lay her eggs. Providing a nest box containing damp sand is an ideal medium and encourages the female to lay her eggs in a spot where they can be easily recovered. It is wise to remove the male from the female at this point. If she lays her eggs and the male is present, there is good chance that he will dig up the eggs and eat them. A few days before oviposition, the female will commence digging test sites in the nest box and refuse food. This is a good sign that the eggs are about to be laid and the nest box should be checked daily.
INCUBATION
Once the eggs have been laid they should be removed from the nest box for incubation. There are various media in which reptile eggs can be incubated; the method of incubation for monitor eggs varies. Many people incubate in damp vermiculite or perlite, whilst others (especially European breeders) suspend them on a plastic tray above water. Whichever method is used it is important to maintain the correct humidity in the incubation chamber.
Incubation temperature is dependent on species but a good average is to incubate at around 28/29C. The eggs may appear to dehydrate during the first few days; if this occurs, lightly spraying the eggs with water at incubator temperature, will allow them to rehydrate without any threat of saturation. Incubation period can be anything from 70-270 days, depending on species. The larger the species generally the longer the incubation time.
NEONATAL CARE
If incubation is successful, care of the young is the same as for the adults. The neonates will probably not feed for the first two or three days, as they will be using up their egg yolk. The neonates should start feeding on appropriate size food items after this two to three day period and initially food items should be offered daily. Once they have reached a reasonable size, say after six months, their feeding regime should be as for the adults.
CONCLUSION
Monitor lizards make fascinating captives; they are entertaining for the viewing public (especially the larger species) and private keeper alike. Despite the large number of monitors kept in zoos and wildlife parks, there is still a lot to learn of their behaviour and husbandry. It is incumbent on all keepers, both private and those working in institutions, to record their observations and pass these on to others.
CREDIT TO ?
INTRODUCTION
The following paper is a brief outline on how to care for monitor lizards in a zoo situation. Because of the wide variety of species within the family, more detailed research will be required by any institution or individual intending to keep specific species to ensure their continued good health through proper husbandry.
OVERVIEW OF THE VARANIDAE
Currently there are 40-50 species recognised, the taxonomy is presently in a state of flux so that no exact figure can be given at this time. There is only one genus, Varanus, although a number of sub genera are recognised, for example the so called Dwarf Monitors are often put in the sub genus odatria.
Australia is home to approximately half the world’s species of monitor lizard, or, as they idea, they are called here, Goannas. The world’s largest lizard is a member of the Varanidae, the Komodo Dragon (Varanus komodoensis). It reaches to between 3 and 3.5 metres in length and around 80kg in weight. Australia’s largest lizard is also a Varanid, the Perentie (Varanus giganteus), reaching perhaps 2 to 2.5 metres and 20kg in weight. The smallest member of the family is Varanus brevicauda, reaching a maximum of 23cm in length and weighing only 20gms. All of today’s monitor lizards are dwarfed by an extinct Australian varanid, Megalania prisca. Fossil records indicate it may have reached 6 metres in length and 650kg in weight. Larger than most saltwater crocodiles, it is thought to have survived until 15-20 thousand years ago.
Monitor lizards are found in Africa, Asia, Australasia and the Pacific Islands, but are absent from most of Europe and the Americas. Their habitat ranges from mangrove and tropical rainforest to arid deserts to which many have become superbly adapted. Most are fast moving predators or scavengers, feeding on a wide range of animals from small insects to, in the case of the Komodo Dragon, large mammalian prey. They are almost totally carnivorous, with the notable exception of Gray’s Monitor (Varanus olivaceous), whose diet is 60% fruit and 40% mollusc.
Monitor lizards appear to have played their part in myth and legend. It is quite possible that the fire-breathing dragon of eastern mythology originates from the yellow, flicking tongue of the Komodo Dragon.
CAPTIVE HUSBANDRY
Which species should be held in captivity? Relatively little is known about monitor lizards, so for the time being we should be concentrating our husbandry techniques on those animals that are already in captivity before bringing in new species from the wild. The smaller the species, the easier it is to house as less space is required. However, many of the smaller species are swift, agile animals and can easily elude the inexperienced handler or cause a painful bite. Larger species, such as Lace Monitors and Perenties, need much larger enclosures and can inflict horrendous injuries with both tooth and claw and should not be handled by inexperienced keepers. A basic rule that is used by some institutions, and the Department of Primary Industries is that inexperienced keepers are not allowed access to monitors in excess of one metre in length.
HOUSING
Ideally the animals should be housed out of doors if the climate allows, although this is not practicable for the display of the smaller species. All monitors are able to climb (even the largest species) and they are prolific diggers, therefore the enclosure walls must be clad or made from a material they are unable to climb (such as sheet metal). The enclosure floor should be constructed to prevent subterranean escape (concrete floor covered by substrate or welded mesh will do). Many species will also jump to freedom (normally as a last resort), therefore cage furniture such as logs, trees, rocks, etc., should not be used too close to the enclosure walls to prevent this method of escape.
The size of the enclosure depends on the size of the animal or animals to be housed, but as a basis rule of thumb, the enclosure should be three times the length of the longest animal long and twice the length of the longest animal wide. Height of the enclosure is obviously not a concern for outdoor displays, however, inside careful consideration must be given to the type of animal being housed. For example, a cage for an arboreal animal will need to be taller to accommodate climbing branches than for a wholly terrestrial or semi aquatic animal. The same principles apply whether the enclosure is on display or off, although for display purposes the enclosure and all cage furniture must be aesthetically pleasing.
HEATING, LIGHTING AND CAGE FURNITURE
As with all reptiles, monitor lizards are ectothermic and, therefore, for species kept indoors or in regions that re cooler than their normal range, supplementary heating must be available.
Heating can be provided by either reflector globes or ceramic heaters. If reflector globes are used, they should be coloured either blue or red by spray painting them with engine enamel (to withstand the high temperatures). This allows the heat source to remain on during the hours of darkness with minimal disruption to the animal’s normal sleeping pattern. The wattage of globe used depends on the size of the cage and the proximity of the nearest basking spot to the heat source. A good temperature range is a hot spot of 45C and a cool area of no warmer than 30C. This range allows a good gradient for the lizards to choose their own preferred temperature. These parameters may need to be adjusted depending on the species being kept.
Not much is known of the need or effects of ultra violet radiation on monitor lizards, but as they are active, diurnal animals, it should be assumed that some exposure would be beneficial. This can be achieved by using dedicated reptile fluorescent lamps and/or regular sunning.
Cage Furniture depends on the species being kept, arboreal species will need branches to climb on, whilst aquatic species require a larger water source so they can immerse themselves fully. If rocks or other heavy objects are placed in the enclosure, care must be taken that they are resting directly on the enclosure floor and not just substrate. As already mentioned, most monitor lizards are prolific diggers, too much digging under a large rock could cause it to fall onto the animal and kill it.
Water bowls should be included for each enclosure and although many monitors will not drink from their bowls, they do occasionally like to soak in them. Daily misting is also recommended, as many lizards prefer to drink water droplets from their own body and enclosure wall than from the water bowl.
HANDLING
This should be avoided as much as possible. Handling causes stress to both the animal and the keeper and can also cause injury to both. If an animal has to be restrained, slowly and gently are the key words. Sudden movements can startle the animals, causing chaos as they charge around their enclosure trying to escape. For the smaller monitors, grasping their whole body in your hand whilst using thumb and forefinger to control the neck and head, is the best method. For larger species, grasping the animal from behind by the neck and base of the tail simultaneously is recommended. Never attempt to pick up a large monitor by the base of the tail alone. Contrary to popular belief they can swing themselves up and bite you on the hand. Wearing a stout pair of leather gloves, such as welding gloves, whilst handling the larger species is a good idea. This saves your hands and forearms from the deep lacerations some can cause with their claws.
FEEDING
A wide range of food items will be eaten by monitor lizards, from insects such as crickets and hoppers to rats, rabbits and chickens. The smaller species are generally insectivorous, though they will take other prey. If feeding insects such as crickets and roaches, the prey should be no larger than ½ to 2/3 the size of the lizard’s head and dusted with vitamin and mineral powder at least once a week, preferably twice (especially for breeding females). Frequency of feeding depends on the time of year, two to three times a week is adequate for most of the year, whilst daily feeding is recommended during breeding season.
For the larger species, a wide variety of food can be offered. Even the largest species will eat insects, although it is often easier and more efficient to feed rats, mice or chicks. Some institutions feed ‘reptile sausage’, a mix of lean meat, bran, eggs and vitamins and minerals, which is fed to all species. Frequency of feeding again depends on the time of year, once a week is sufficient during the cooler months and twice a week during the warmer months.
BREEDING
Before breeding can be attempted, it is important to condition the animals to be bred. Photoperiod, heat and the availability of food and water all seem to play a part in successful breeding. Prior to the breeding season, the males and females should be separated; the photoperiod, heat, food and water all reduced to simulate an over-wintering period. The time and duration of over-wintering is dependent on the species being kept. Attempt to simulate the natural conditions of the animal’s habitat as much as possible. When the conditioning period is finished, increase heat, photoperiod, food and water and introduce the male to the female’s enclosure. Introducing the female to the make can have serious consequences; the male may be extremely aggressive to the female and could possibly kill her if he sees her as an interloper to his territory.
If mating occurs, it can go on for many days. During mating, provide privacy for the animals as too many disturbances can cause them to abandon mating. Once the female becomes gravid, she will look for a spot to lay her eggs. Providing a nest box containing damp sand is an ideal medium and encourages the female to lay her eggs in a spot where they can be easily recovered. It is wise to remove the male from the female at this point. If she lays her eggs and the male is present, there is good chance that he will dig up the eggs and eat them. A few days before oviposition, the female will commence digging test sites in the nest box and refuse food. This is a good sign that the eggs are about to be laid and the nest box should be checked daily.
INCUBATION
Once the eggs have been laid they should be removed from the nest box for incubation. There are various media in which reptile eggs can be incubated; the method of incubation for monitor eggs varies. Many people incubate in damp vermiculite or perlite, whilst others (especially European breeders) suspend them on a plastic tray above water. Whichever method is used it is important to maintain the correct humidity in the incubation chamber.
Incubation temperature is dependent on species but a good average is to incubate at around 28/29C. The eggs may appear to dehydrate during the first few days; if this occurs, lightly spraying the eggs with water at incubator temperature, will allow them to rehydrate without any threat of saturation. Incubation period can be anything from 70-270 days, depending on species. The larger the species generally the longer the incubation time.
NEONATAL CARE
If incubation is successful, care of the young is the same as for the adults. The neonates will probably not feed for the first two or three days, as they will be using up their egg yolk. The neonates should start feeding on appropriate size food items after this two to three day period and initially food items should be offered daily. Once they have reached a reasonable size, say after six months, their feeding regime should be as for the adults.
CONCLUSION
Monitor lizards make fascinating captives; they are entertaining for the viewing public (especially the larger species) and private keeper alike. Despite the large number of monitors kept in zoos and wildlife parks, there is still a lot to learn of their behaviour and husbandry. It is incumbent on all keepers, both private and those working in institutions, to record their observations and pass these on to others.
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