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Australian Snakes
Lighting, heating and thermostat for Stimson's python
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<blockquote data-quote="Jonesy1103" data-source="post: 2541744" data-attributes="member: 52060"><p>I reckon you have one of these eh? (See photo)</p><p>(Mine is Exo Terra but I think Reptile One also sell it as the "Desert Lizard Starter" or some similar name with a picture of a frilly under lights on the box; getting a proper grilling from 100w Desert Light and 150w Ceramic Heat Emitter)</p><p></p><p>Sdaji has suggested the plastic tub approach for the hatchling, you will find a lot of images and threads on how to set this up (I have zero experience in this but have read a lot so if you want me to trawl for links I can do so)</p><p></p><p>Regarding what you already have purchased; see photo; this is what my Children's came in, it was an unwanted pet from someone else so I took it as is. After a lot of reading I decided to make it as suitable as possible while I built a proper shelter; I was pretty amateur and working fast because the more I read the more I realised how poorly housed my new pet was!</p><p></p><p>The good news is you can improve this very quickly for cheap; and over time you can really spruce it up for not much more.</p><p></p><p>For a start just check how much of a gap there is around the windows when the doors are shut. The one I have shuts nice and close (ie I couldnt slide a paddle pop stick in any gap; presumably a hatchling would not fit thru either? But you better check for "hatchling sized gaps" anyway.) If its built to a decent quality and not gappy, things should be ok. In any case your hatchling will probably be raised in a Click Clack at the start so escape should not be possible from ze enclosure ve haff described! (Read the last sentence in a German accent)</p><p></p><p> Also now check the top mesh for holes as it is second hand. Its just flywire so easily punctured which could make a "hatchling sized gap". These can be patched with material and sewing kit or any sensible method. I dunno about using Silicone due to fumes; so I usually trim a square of flywire and then use fishing line to sew it on.</p><p></p><p> Inside the enclosure, check where the flywire mesh terminates around the joints etc and make sure there aren't sharp cut edges sticking out (there shouldn't be on a quality build, just pays to check things inside and out).</p><p></p><p>If it doesnt have hatchling sized gaps, broken mesh, or sharp edges, the enclosure described will be OK in my personal opinion. But over time you can make it more suitable, without spending much at all (unless you want to)</p><p></p><p>Things I did to make the all glass enclosure more python suitable;</p><p></p><p>First I put it against a corner wall (thereby closing the back wall and 1 side wall from view). Then the other side I put a picture against; so with 3 sides covered the snake felt a lot less exposed. This will help with the snake feeling secure. Even something simple like hanging towels over all 3 sides will help (without smothering the ventilation). Basically your Stimmy doesn't want to be viewed from all angles.</p><p></p><p>Please of course be mindful of fire hazards and heat collection zones. And yes I have been warned multiple times about letting "raw sunlight" shine thru the box, these things act like a greenhouse basically. So mine was kept inside the house away from the windows, natural daylight gets in but never bright direct sunlight.</p><p></p><p>Even just trimming some decent thickness cardboard rectangles to stick to the back and 2 sides will add a minor amount of insulation and a fair amount of "safe feeling" to the place. And people with an artistic touch can of course add murals to these to make beautiful images of terrain etc.</p><p></p><p>Hides from the petshop aren't necessarily cheap; a flower pot from bunnings with a couple of holes trimmed out achieves the same thing (be mindful of sharp edges). See the DIY sections on this website.</p><p></p><p>Can you send a photo of the electrical bits and bobs on your setup; mine had already been "customised" so I dunno what the factory setup would have looked like. But I had a 25w UVA/UVB bulb and let me say it's bright enough for a 450 x 450 x 600h enclosure by my reckoning. This went onto a regular old Bunnings house appliance timer, providing 10h of light a day.</p><p></p><p>Mine came with a 50w red lamp but they are pretty short lasting and had I known then what I have learnt now I would have done the previously mentioned heat mat setup. I really recommend this approach.</p><p></p><p>I hope this isn't overwhelming or overbearing, it is supposed to come across as friendly hints and tips! But I realise sometimes that the written word on the internet is not the same as a spoken converaation. And remember, snakes are survivors by evolution and nature; give it the right temps and the right feeds and it will thrive in your care; there is already a wealth of knowledge to draw from on this website for those with the time and patience to read thru the backlog in the threads; and there are always gonna be others willing to reply.</p><p></p><p>Happy Herpetology!</p><p></p><p>Hi all! After a re-read of my post I have come back to edit this post, just to set some context</p><p>1) fixed a coupla typo's but there are probably some others</p><p>2) make it absolutely clear that the Hatchling Raising side of things is not what I am commenting on; I am talking about setting up the All Glass enclosure for a Juvenile</p><p></p><p>3)Just to make sure it is clear I am in no way trying to contradict Sdaji or Herptology; my advice relates solely to making the 450 x 450 x 600h all glass enclosure suitable for raising a Juvenile Antaresia (which is precisely the situation I found myself in).</p><p></p><p>4)Pretty sure I haven't tread on anyone's toes here folks but if I have ; Tiarna, be advised Herptology and Sdaji have WAY more experience than me; but I have been lumped with your enclosure before and managed to make a silk purse from a pig's ear. My advice therefore should be limited to the DIY side of things as opposed to the Hatchling Raising side of things</p><p></p><p>Cheers,</p><p>Jonesy</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jonesy1103, post: 2541744, member: 52060"] I reckon you have one of these eh? (See photo) (Mine is Exo Terra but I think Reptile One also sell it as the "Desert Lizard Starter" or some similar name with a picture of a frilly under lights on the box; getting a proper grilling from 100w Desert Light and 150w Ceramic Heat Emitter) Sdaji has suggested the plastic tub approach for the hatchling, you will find a lot of images and threads on how to set this up (I have zero experience in this but have read a lot so if you want me to trawl for links I can do so) Regarding what you already have purchased; see photo; this is what my Children's came in, it was an unwanted pet from someone else so I took it as is. After a lot of reading I decided to make it as suitable as possible while I built a proper shelter; I was pretty amateur and working fast because the more I read the more I realised how poorly housed my new pet was! The good news is you can improve this very quickly for cheap; and over time you can really spruce it up for not much more. For a start just check how much of a gap there is around the windows when the doors are shut. The one I have shuts nice and close (ie I couldnt slide a paddle pop stick in any gap; presumably a hatchling would not fit thru either? But you better check for "hatchling sized gaps" anyway.) If its built to a decent quality and not gappy, things should be ok. In any case your hatchling will probably be raised in a Click Clack at the start so escape should not be possible from ze enclosure ve haff described! (Read the last sentence in a German accent) Also now check the top mesh for holes as it is second hand. Its just flywire so easily punctured which could make a "hatchling sized gap". These can be patched with material and sewing kit or any sensible method. I dunno about using Silicone due to fumes; so I usually trim a square of flywire and then use fishing line to sew it on. Inside the enclosure, check where the flywire mesh terminates around the joints etc and make sure there aren't sharp cut edges sticking out (there shouldn't be on a quality build, just pays to check things inside and out). If it doesnt have hatchling sized gaps, broken mesh, or sharp edges, the enclosure described will be OK in my personal opinion. But over time you can make it more suitable, without spending much at all (unless you want to) Things I did to make the all glass enclosure more python suitable; First I put it against a corner wall (thereby closing the back wall and 1 side wall from view). Then the other side I put a picture against; so with 3 sides covered the snake felt a lot less exposed. This will help with the snake feeling secure. Even something simple like hanging towels over all 3 sides will help (without smothering the ventilation). Basically your Stimmy doesn't want to be viewed from all angles. Please of course be mindful of fire hazards and heat collection zones. And yes I have been warned multiple times about letting "raw sunlight" shine thru the box, these things act like a greenhouse basically. So mine was kept inside the house away from the windows, natural daylight gets in but never bright direct sunlight. Even just trimming some decent thickness cardboard rectangles to stick to the back and 2 sides will add a minor amount of insulation and a fair amount of "safe feeling" to the place. And people with an artistic touch can of course add murals to these to make beautiful images of terrain etc. Hides from the petshop aren't necessarily cheap; a flower pot from bunnings with a couple of holes trimmed out achieves the same thing (be mindful of sharp edges). See the DIY sections on this website. Can you send a photo of the electrical bits and bobs on your setup; mine had already been "customised" so I dunno what the factory setup would have looked like. But I had a 25w UVA/UVB bulb and let me say it's bright enough for a 450 x 450 x 600h enclosure by my reckoning. This went onto a regular old Bunnings house appliance timer, providing 10h of light a day. Mine came with a 50w red lamp but they are pretty short lasting and had I known then what I have learnt now I would have done the previously mentioned heat mat setup. I really recommend this approach. I hope this isn't overwhelming or overbearing, it is supposed to come across as friendly hints and tips! But I realise sometimes that the written word on the internet is not the same as a spoken converaation. And remember, snakes are survivors by evolution and nature; give it the right temps and the right feeds and it will thrive in your care; there is already a wealth of knowledge to draw from on this website for those with the time and patience to read thru the backlog in the threads; and there are always gonna be others willing to reply. Happy Herpetology! Hi all! After a re-read of my post I have come back to edit this post, just to set some context 1) fixed a coupla typo's but there are probably some others 2) make it absolutely clear that the Hatchling Raising side of things is not what I am commenting on; I am talking about setting up the All Glass enclosure for a Juvenile 3)Just to make sure it is clear I am in no way trying to contradict Sdaji or Herptology; my advice relates solely to making the 450 x 450 x 600h all glass enclosure suitable for raising a Juvenile Antaresia (which is precisely the situation I found myself in). 4)Pretty sure I haven't tread on anyone's toes here folks but if I have ; Tiarna, be advised Herptology and Sdaji have WAY more experience than me; but I have been lumped with your enclosure before and managed to make a silk purse from a pig's ear. My advice therefore should be limited to the DIY side of things as opposed to the Hatchling Raising side of things Cheers, Jonesy [/QUOTE]
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Lighting, heating and thermostat for Stimson's python
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