timthevet
Not so new Member
Reptiles and frogs
Tortoises, lizards, snakes, crocodiles and frogs require special care. Venomous snakes should only be kept by people who are experts at handling them. Most reptiles are shy animals and handling should be minimal. Tortoises should not be tied up on a leash.
Laws
Check with the Flora and Fauna division of CALM for laws under which reptiles and frogs can be kept as pets, regulations about enclosures and licence fees.
For advice contact the Australian Herpetological Society. Recommended reading: "Keeping Reptiles and Amphibians as Pets" by Chris Banks, Published by Nelson.
Food
Snakes-whole twice weekly to fortnightly depending on size but normally feed less often or not at all through winter unless heating is supplied.
Lizards have varying requirements. Skinks are best fed 3-4 times weekly on soft vegetables(green beans, carrot, alfalfa sprouts, parsley) and fruit(dried raisins,figs,oranges,melons) cut into 7mm pieces, boiled egg and up to 5% moistened dog food. Small flowers(dandelions),snails and insects (mealworms) should be used as supplements. Dragons are insectivorous and should be fed 3-4 times weekly (daily for smaller species) on a mixture of crickets, silkworms and mealworms. These
insects must be fed a diet containing 8% calcium, injected with calcium prior to feeding or less optimally dusted with calcium. The insects should be supplemented with the diet for skinks aswell as occasional whole dead hairless mice.
Monitors require weekly feeds(adults) with a combination of whole small
mammals, birds, fish, eggs and raw meat.
Australian tortoises only feed in water and should be fed whole fish(not frozen), adult mice, yabbies, shrimps, worms, insects (prepared as for dragons above) and occasional dog food. Tortoises should be fed daily for jouveniles to three times weekly for adults and less in the colder months.
Frogs are insectivorous and can be fed at dusk with a similar diet to dragons as above with enough food to be eaten between 30minutes and 1hour.
Housing
Substrate can be gravel, paper or artificial turf and furnishings should be provided for hiding/climbing. Waste should be removed daily and cages sterilised with F10 disinfectant weekly-fortnightly. Wire should be avoided as it can cause injuries. Reptiles require a temperature gradient of 5-6 degrees with the middle being the preferred body temperature for that species (ask your veterinarian for this). This should be provided with a heat source outside one end of the enclosure and should ideally be thermostatically controlled. The heat source must be used 24hrs a day and shouldn't provide light so a blue or infra red light are ideal. Light should be provided in the same hours as the sun provides. Indoor animals require an ultraviolet light with 285-315nm plus a blue-green light that are less than 45cm from the animal and not blocked by glass. These globes have expiries and should be replaced. Only animals that originate from the area of the enclosure should be kept outdoors and these enclosures require access to sun and shade. Humidity for arid and temperate species can be provided with a water dish big enough for the animal to bathe in. For tropical species, heavily foliaged enclosures misted twice daily are satisfactory. The cage floor should be dry. Tortoises and frogs require land and water to swim in. You need a filter, an aerator and a heater at one end. The same temperature gradient as above should be provided and should be accurately assessed with a thermometer. The water should be left to stand for 3 days before adding animals and ammonium and nitrates should be regularly assessed with a test kit, especially during the first few weeks. ? of the water should be changed weekly and all food leftovers should be removed immediately after feeding. Outside enclosures for reptiles are only suitable for breeds from the same environment and should have shade, sun and a heat lamp that provides a temperature a few degrees above their preferred body temperature.
Health Problems
Most health problems are due to incorrect temperatures, humidity, housing and feeding.
Problems can occur due to intestinal worms, skin mites and a variety of infections and injuries.
For advice and treatment of sick reptiles and frogs, contact a veterinarian particularly interested in these animals. The local Herpetology Society, the Melbourne Zoo, RSPCA, or the Department of Conservation & Land Management can also provide advice.
Compiled by Dr Tim White, veterinarian
Tortoises, lizards, snakes, crocodiles and frogs require special care. Venomous snakes should only be kept by people who are experts at handling them. Most reptiles are shy animals and handling should be minimal. Tortoises should not be tied up on a leash.
Laws
Check with the Flora and Fauna division of CALM for laws under which reptiles and frogs can be kept as pets, regulations about enclosures and licence fees.
For advice contact the Australian Herpetological Society. Recommended reading: "Keeping Reptiles and Amphibians as Pets" by Chris Banks, Published by Nelson.
Food
Snakes-whole twice weekly to fortnightly depending on size but normally feed less often or not at all through winter unless heating is supplied.
Lizards have varying requirements. Skinks are best fed 3-4 times weekly on soft vegetables(green beans, carrot, alfalfa sprouts, parsley) and fruit(dried raisins,figs,oranges,melons) cut into 7mm pieces, boiled egg and up to 5% moistened dog food. Small flowers(dandelions),snails and insects (mealworms) should be used as supplements. Dragons are insectivorous and should be fed 3-4 times weekly (daily for smaller species) on a mixture of crickets, silkworms and mealworms. These
insects must be fed a diet containing 8% calcium, injected with calcium prior to feeding or less optimally dusted with calcium. The insects should be supplemented with the diet for skinks aswell as occasional whole dead hairless mice.
Monitors require weekly feeds(adults) with a combination of whole small
mammals, birds, fish, eggs and raw meat.
Australian tortoises only feed in water and should be fed whole fish(not frozen), adult mice, yabbies, shrimps, worms, insects (prepared as for dragons above) and occasional dog food. Tortoises should be fed daily for jouveniles to three times weekly for adults and less in the colder months.
Frogs are insectivorous and can be fed at dusk with a similar diet to dragons as above with enough food to be eaten between 30minutes and 1hour.
Housing
Substrate can be gravel, paper or artificial turf and furnishings should be provided for hiding/climbing. Waste should be removed daily and cages sterilised with F10 disinfectant weekly-fortnightly. Wire should be avoided as it can cause injuries. Reptiles require a temperature gradient of 5-6 degrees with the middle being the preferred body temperature for that species (ask your veterinarian for this). This should be provided with a heat source outside one end of the enclosure and should ideally be thermostatically controlled. The heat source must be used 24hrs a day and shouldn't provide light so a blue or infra red light are ideal. Light should be provided in the same hours as the sun provides. Indoor animals require an ultraviolet light with 285-315nm plus a blue-green light that are less than 45cm from the animal and not blocked by glass. These globes have expiries and should be replaced. Only animals that originate from the area of the enclosure should be kept outdoors and these enclosures require access to sun and shade. Humidity for arid and temperate species can be provided with a water dish big enough for the animal to bathe in. For tropical species, heavily foliaged enclosures misted twice daily are satisfactory. The cage floor should be dry. Tortoises and frogs require land and water to swim in. You need a filter, an aerator and a heater at one end. The same temperature gradient as above should be provided and should be accurately assessed with a thermometer. The water should be left to stand for 3 days before adding animals and ammonium and nitrates should be regularly assessed with a test kit, especially during the first few weeks. ? of the water should be changed weekly and all food leftovers should be removed immediately after feeding. Outside enclosures for reptiles are only suitable for breeds from the same environment and should have shade, sun and a heat lamp that provides a temperature a few degrees above their preferred body temperature.
Health Problems
Most health problems are due to incorrect temperatures, humidity, housing and feeding.
Problems can occur due to intestinal worms, skin mites and a variety of infections and injuries.
For advice and treatment of sick reptiles and frogs, contact a veterinarian particularly interested in these animals. The local Herpetology Society, the Melbourne Zoo, RSPCA, or the Department of Conservation & Land Management can also provide advice.
Compiled by Dr Tim White, veterinarian
