Spotted Python

[adam10_1990]

Hi Guys and Gals I'm Adam,

This will be my first post about my first snake that I am buying,


First off i would like to say i chose this due to the fact that it has 99% of the things i will need to start caring for a snake with the snake included.

Basically I have a few Questions and being new i thought this may be the best place to start.
1) Just in case (you never know with people) when/if i buy this snake and enclosure, what do i need to take with me and fill out (I believe a pillow case and breathable container for transport will do) but more on a legality side of things.

2) It says that it is bitey due to lack of attention for 6 months, once I let the snake settle into his new home (being that it will be in its normal enclosure) only giving him the feeding ritual (which the seller said they will go over) what will be the best way of getting him used to being handled again.

3) Im not sure on age or length but can anyone give me some insight roughly how i can figure this out (whether it be from the photo or when i go there in person)

4) any advice for a first timer (yes i have a RWL licence)

 

[shamat]

1. Make sure you are licensed (if where you are requires it). Also get the sellers license details and make sure you fill out your keepers records. This can be done online.
2. let it settle in its new home for a few days. its might be a familiar enclosure, but the view is different. Resist the temptation to handle it. After a few days use a hook to take it out and gently handle it. If it bites, try not to react. It really doent hurt and if you put it back right away it will learn that biting is the way it van be returned to its safe enclosure. the more you handle it the better it will become, but dont overdo it as this will stress it out.
3. no image so cant help.
4. Good. make sure you get the sellers also.

 

[adam10_1990]

Sorry, I posted the link to the add but looks like it didnt work, this is the add below.It does say missing a thermostat but I just bought one last night.

Spotted python with its enclosure complete with hide, water bowl, light cage, wired light fitting. Enclosure DOES NOT come with thermostat. Spotted has a burn scare from previous owner not having a guard around the light. Python loves his food and sheds no problems at all very nice little spotted python. Can be a little bitey due to not being handled much but will settle down fast with handling. Enclosure measures 600 high 620 long 470 deep. Enclosure and stand measure 1270 high. Enclosure is made out of tongue and groove pine which is stained. Enclosure is in excellent condition. Reason for selling is because i just don't have the time for it any more and have to concentrate on my other animals. Must have reptile permit and be sighted on pick up.

 

[Tiffany]

With our spotted's even tho they are used to being handled we still get them out using a hook but once they are out they are fine. They are real pigs tho and will keep eating especially when they are younger. My 4yo will keep hunting even after a hopper and a weaner. Mine is quiet small for a 4yo as she was fed small while younger but she is now growing to the size of her mum (14yo). I find these are great snakes, if handled often they don't bite too much. It has been 2 and a half years since I got tagged by either of our 2.

 

[adam10_1990]

Yeah I planned on getting it with the hook as even though im a 187 cm guy, the tank is 130cm high and then the tank be 60cm deep (down)
I don't think i would be able to comfortably grab him out easily.

Also we he be alright to wander my back yard, there are no chemicals being sprayed, and no animals, just a frangipani tree.

 

[The_Geeza]

U do realise it has a significant scar behind the head

 

[adam10_1990]

U do realise it has a significant scar behind the head

Yes, this is from a previous owner not having a cage around the light, this was mentioned in his advertisement,

Would this cause any medical issues that I should know about?
And once he has settled in I will take him down to a reptile vet to have a full check out to make sure he is healthy,

Like I would with any pet i have owned in the past.

 

[Beans]

If its a scar then it should be okay, because it has healed and is an old wound. I would be mindful of shedding in that area, just check incase sheds get stuck etc. Also Scary tissue I don't think is very good at stretching, so maybe be careful of food sizes?

 

[adam10_1990]

Shedding would be the main thing i could think of, but didnt want to seed that into the discussion,

Apparently he feeds him medium sized rats (which i am getting 2 months worth of from him in the deal)

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Ok so im also worried about heating,

in the pictures i can see it comes with a heating lamp, and i bought myself a "ecotech tc100 advances reptile thermostat with Timer"

Whats my best setup to keep the snake happy, and to keep him alive, does it need to be on at night,

also to make it easy i live in brisbane if that makes it easier for understanding my temp ranges day/night

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Ok, so i picked him up last night,

First thing is he is 3 days into a shed, he has just gone through the milky stage.

The scar doesnt look that bad, and owner said he has never had shedding issues with it before, it looks to have healed nicely.

He really likes his hidey rock, an likes to hide at the top of his tank below the door. (dont ask me how he fits but wow.

He is roughly 700 - 800 mm long, and feeds on medium/sub adult rats. Owner fed him these every 1 and a half weeks.

Once he has gone through his shed (so im assuming he has about 6 or so days left) ill feed him, and then wait another two days and begin the "get use to being held phase" (btw how long after a shed should i wait to feed?)

This consits of coming out of his tank every 2 days for 5 mins in my hand (being pulled out by the hook)
After a week ill increase this to 10 mins every second day, and then cut it down to 10 mins every day the week after.

Can anyone see any flaws in this plan or something they can add to aid the process of turning bitey into placid.

 

[86JAP]

You can feed the same day he sheds as long as there weren't any dramas with the shed.

Your handling regime sounds good, you will get a feel about if he will tolerate being handled pretty quick by his behaviour. Is it a dimming or switching thermostat? You should hang the probe down level with the globe and about 100mm to the side from it and measure and monitor the temp directly under it.

I would be slightly concerned about the heating in that enclosure, there doesn't seem to be anywhere he can go to escape the heat and thermoregulate.

 

[adam10_1990]

You can feed the same day he sheds as long as there weren't any dramas with the shed.

Ah awesome, we will see if George (dont know the gender) will take a rat in a few days.

Your handling regime sounds good, you will get a feel about if he will tolerate being handled pretty quick by his behaviour.

So George will tense up if it doesant like being handled?

Is it a dimming or switching thermostat? You should hang the probe down level with the globe and about 100mm to the side from it and measure and monitor the temp directly under it.

Its a switching, but im going to invest in a micro climate B1, with the dimming, currently the probe is about halfway down the back dead center under the light though. Will this affect it?

I would be slightly concerned about the heating in that enclosure, there doesn't seem to be anywhere he can go to escape the heat and thermoregulate.

I plan on getting some heat mats (and getting rid of the heat bulb) for under his tree and keeping his hide as the cooler end, to help him thermoregulate. and changing the bulb to purely light only.

My only issue with the mats is, is that it is a wooden floor, and no where to put it under it, what would be my best option for setting this up? As i assume putting heat mats in the substrate is a no no, i can attach it to the wooden floor but what would the heat transfer be like.

Or should i buy a standard bulb, relocate my heating bulb to the side and have a light in the center?

If this wont work my only other option will be to build my own out of a cabinet i have. which has a long length (about 1.5 m left to right) about 60 cm front to back and about 1.5 m high (which i would not use the whole height). use a Mesh roof thats hinged about 60 cms up, with a heat bulb at one end and a standard light at the other. An i will use glass for the front. but this would be a few weeks in the making.

 

[JAS101]

if your going to use a heat mat then you could make a tiled heat pad [ running a thermostat of course ] they are easy to make and cheap to run .

 

[adam10_1990]

if your going to use a heat mat then you could make a tiled heat pad [ running a thermostat of course ] they are easy to make and cheap to run .

Ooh sounds good, to me that sounds like a tile with a heat pad stuck to the bottom, can you link me to any threads for this?

 

[86JAP]

I can tell if my bredli is not in the mood because she becomes very flighty and just wants to get out of my hands, if she starts this then I just put her back and leave her be.

Good choice with the B1 stat, that is what I'm currently using to control the CHE in my enclosure.

I'll be honest and say I don't know much about spotted's, weather they are aborial, semi aborial or terrestrial but if it were my enclosure i would be moving that centre fitting to one side and placing something with a bit of height under it to bask on. If spotted's are considered more terrestrial then you should be able to swap out the heat globe for a lighting only globe and go with [MENTION=15637]JAS101[/MENTION]`s suggestion of a heated ceramic tile. Just clear the substrate out, put the mat on the floor and place an appropriate size tile on top (thermostat probe to top of tile).

 

[adam10_1990]

I'll be honest and say I don't know much about spotted's, weather they are aborial, semi aborial or terrestrial but if it were my enclosure i would be moving that centre fitting to one side and placing something with a bit of height under it to bask on. If spotted's are considered more terrestrial then you should be able to swap out the heat globe for a lighting only globe and go with @JAS101`s suggestion of a heated ceramic tile. Just clear the substrate out, put the mat on the floor and place an appropriate size tile on top (thermostat probe to top of tile).

Im not to sure on these terms but im assuming from a quick google that terrestrial = floor dweller, arboreal - stay in the trees, and semi arboreal would be a bit of both.

I did a google on spotted and got this info. ****Sourced from http://www.dolittlefarm.com.au/docs/spotted.pdf

They are naturally occurring in and around rocky escarpments and
outcrops, associated open woodlands and grassy plains. They are agile climbers
on rock faces, small shrubs and across the ground, but do not venture into large
trees.

and this


Sub-adult to adult snakes can be housed in a variety of cages with a minimum
size of 500 x 400 x 300 (mm). As they are not a tree climber by nature, tall
cages are not necessary. Timber cages should be favoured over glass, especially
in temperate locations (eg Sydney)
Ventilation in their cage should not be excessive, and so retain a level of heated
air in the cage.

Heat :

Spotted Pythons come from a warm to hot climate, For a sub-adult to adult python, this can be in the form of
heatpad or heatcord for belly heat, and a heat-lamp for radiant heat. A heatlamp
used for older animals will also heat the larger airspace of the cage effectively. Spotted Pythons will seek to keep
their bodies at 30ºC, and so will need temperatures around 34-35ºC at the warm
end and around 26-27ºC at the cool end of the cage.

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I might convert my old tv cabinet to look like the pic, wont be too hard and it gives me the feeling of "look what i made"

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If spotted's are considered more terrestrial then you should be able to swap out the heat globe for a lighting only globe and go with @JAS101`s suggestion of a heated ceramic tile. Just clear the substrate out, put the mat on the floor and place an appropriate size tile on top (thermostat probe to top of tile).

How far above the tile should the thermostat be mounted?

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Scientific name is
Liasis maculosus
Anteresia maculosus

 

[JAS101]

Ooh sounds good, to me that sounds like a tile with a heat pad stuck to the bottom, can you link me to any threads for this?

the tiled heat pad doesn't need to be on the floor , it can be placed on a shelf or at any height you like .
I don't have any links on how to make them as such , but I just get a piece of MDF or plywood [ 6mm thick or so]
get some of that white polystyrene sheeting [ the stuff they use to insulate the bottom of fish tanks ]
glue the polystyrene to the piece of wood . cut a groove in the polystyrene for the thermostat probe , glue the heat mat onto the polystyrene . then glue the tile/s on top of the heat mat . the glue I use is just sellys no more gaps as its easy to work with and can withstand high temps .
the reson why I use the polystyrene as it was in the instructions on the back of a reptapet thermostat packing . and it helps direct the heat up through the tile .

if you can find the heat mat/s with the inbuilt thermostat its an added bonus as it saves spending more money on a separate thermostat . I have been using the above setup in some of my enclosures for the last 4 years with no issues , over the last year or so I have almost converted all of my snake enclosures to the above setup.

 

[adam10_1990]

First Shed!!

Ok so George has been leading up to a shed, but it didnt quite look like he would,

But low and behold he has! Did it somewhere between midnight and 7am.

But he also come out of his hidey hole yesterday arvo for dad and even drank some water in front of us, and this is after we moved his cage to the lounge room from my bedroom ( i had a big cabinet in the way so could put him where i wanted him without a second pair of hands)

Ill feed him friday, and start handling him monday

So proud (being my first snake and all)

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Fed him last night, grabbed him with my hands as i dont have a snake hook yet and he didnt bite so heres hoping,

one issue i had was he "strangled" the rat, then pushed/nosed it about for 10 minutes, but then decided to eat it, is this just a check to make sure its completely dead? as i "tugged" the rat a few times to make him strangle.