Stuck Shed Diamond,

[Iguana]

Hi all,
So my Diamond python has had shed troubles in the past, but nothing like this. He is covered in small and medium patches of retained shed, which is persistent on not coming off.

I left him completely alone during his cycle, and did try to maintain the humidity as high as I could, although it kept dropping down to 55% or so.
I soaked him twice today, one time for 20 minutes, the other time for 1hr and 20 minutes, I then used a towel and a gentle back and forth rubbing motion to try and get the skin off. Some (a small amount) did come off so that confirms that it is stuck shed.
Also mixed small amounts of some of the commercial "shed ease" stuff in the water per instructions, as well as some betadine.

Problem is that a large part of it will not come off, and I am not sure how rough to be with it, I don't want to force it off as i'm guessing that'll just damage his skin.
He isn't keen on being touched too much if at all, and he hates 'bathing', so I am worried about stressing him out too much by all this repeatedly.

Should I just keep soaking and try to get as much off as I can until its all off? Or just wait untill the next shed? He sheds quite often so i'm sure it wouldn't be more than a month or so.
Also I read on a 'reptiles magazine' (I think that's the name) article, that vitamin A deficiency can cause skin and shedding problems, was considering getting a multivitamin into his food somehow, is this overkill?

It's gotten to the point where these problems are very frequent, and this time is probably the worst, I can't figure out what's causing it and what to do next.

Any advice is appreciated,
thanks!

 

[kittycat17]

Not sure if it would help but any chance of pics?

And just general husbandry stuff, does he have plenty to rub against in the tank, do you mist him with water during the shed cycle?
Does he have a water bowl large enough to completely soak in?


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[GBWhite]

The soaking should have removed it. It might pay to try again and leave him in the water until the shad starts to lift. I've placed Camomile tea bags in the water for snakes experiencing a similar problem in the past with good results. Do you provide it with a bowl big enough for it to soak in its enclosure. This also helps maintain humidity as well allow it to soak if the enclosure gets too hot. If it is a continuous ongoing problem then you may have to consider your husbandry technique. If it's eating quality whole food items then a vitamin A deficiency shouldn't be a consideration, I don't think you'll benefit by adding a multivitamin to the food. A pic of the critter and your set up might help.

 

[Iguana]

Thanks for the responses guys,
Will put up pics tomorrow if that's okay, he has been pulled out a few times too many today, and is a bit cranky.

He has a huge a very heavy ceramic water bowl which I have never seen him use except for drinking. Neither of my snakes soak during their shed cycle so I have to mist the tank instead. Also has a variety of sticks, rocks and bark to rub against.
I did mist it quite a lot, but because he has a infared bulb it drys the air out very quickly, was thinking of investing in a fogger instead.

I do suspect it's husbandry, but i'm not sure where exactly i'm going wrong, I have tried just about every method, but it seems this time the 'standard procedure' for shedding has been what caused it.

@GBWhite Yeah I was really hoping a nice long soak would do it, but I suspect he will need another one or two. Will try the tea trick tomorrow, thanks!

 

[Buggster]

Thanks for the responses guys,
Will put up pics tomorrow if that's okay, he has been pulled out a few times too many today, and is a bit cranky.

He has a huge a very heavy ceramic water bowl which I have never seen him use except for drinking. Neither of my snakes soak during their shed cycle so I have to mist the tank instead. Also has a variety of sticks, rocks and bark to rub against.
I did mist it quite a lot, but because he has a infared bulb it drys the air out very quickly, was thinking of investing in a fogger instead.

I do suspect it's husbandry, but i'm not sure where exactly i'm going wrong, I have tried just about every method, but it seems this time the 'standard procedure' for shedding has been what caused it.

@GBWhite Yeah I was really hoping a nice long soak would do it, but I suspect he will need another one or two. Will try the tea trick tomorrow, thanks!

Just remember that even if you never see him soak himself in his bowl, doesn't mean he never does it.
I was convinced my Woma never soaked in her bowl until one day I happened to go in there at 3 in the morning to find her having a nice nap in her bowl!
Talk about a water bed!


What substrate are you currently using? Some substrates hold moisture better than others, especially when you put a nice deep layer of the stuff.

I know you're trying your best to soak your snake several times a day, but personally if you suspect stress, or are doing this too often you might be hindering instead of helping.

My snakes get soaked once for about 30 mins when they first start displaying signs of shed (blue eyes, dullness) and that's pretty much it. I leave them to it and limit handling to the bare minimum- I do a daily hands on check with them all (I've recently obtained a new snake, and despite it being in quarantine I'm on the lookout for any sign of sickness from anyone) but that's it.

The only time I really bothered a snake when they were in shed was when the Woma was 5 days late for a shed (I can usually tell 3 days before she sheds). Her skin was getting very dry and crackly so she had several warm water soaks that day. Next day I got a decent shed (several large pieces, but it all came off).


It can be hard to take a hands off approach when we see our snakes struggling, but more often than not we're a hindrance, not a help!

 

[Chris1]

Soaking plus a generous application of Lucas paw paw ointment (the stuff in the red jar) and a bit more soaking has never failed for me. Be generous with both the ointment and water and it should be off in no time. (Then wipe the very slimy snake down with a paper towel.)

 

[Wokka]

DONT use chemicals profolactycally, including Beterdine. Beterdidine inhibits new cell growth! You can put the snake in a rough wet bag for a while and as it crawls around it will rub the lose skin off. Make sure the wet pag stays warm so you dont chill the snake.

 

[Iguana]

Just remember that even if you never see him soak himself in his bowl, doesn't mean he never does it.
I was convinced my Woma never soaked in her bowl until one day I happened to go in there at 3 in the morning to find her having a nice nap in her bowl!
Talk about a water bed!


What substrate are you currently using? Some substrates hold moisture better than others, especially when you put a nice deep layer of the stuff.

I know you're trying your best to soak your snake several times a day, but personally if you suspect stress, or are doing this too often you might be hindering instead of helping.

My snakes get soaked once for about 30 mins when they first start displaying signs of shed (blue eyes, dullness) and that's pretty much it. I leave them to it and limit handling to the bare minimum- I do a daily hands on check with them all (I've recently obtained a new snake, and despite it being in quarantine I'm on the lookout for any sign of sickness from anyone) but that's it.

The only time I really bothered a snake when they were in shed was when the Woma was 5 days late for a shed (I can usually tell 3 days before she sheds). Her skin was getting very dry and crackly so she had several warm water soaks that day. Next day I got a decent shed (several large pieces, but it all came off).


It can be hard to take a hands off approach when we see our snakes struggling, but more often than not we're a hindrance, not a help!

I am using a mixture of critter crumble, plus coco peat mixed it. But similar to misting, the Infrared bulb just bakes it and takes out all the moisture unfortunately.

Yeah I agree, I think after this round I might have to leave it untill the next shed, it's just not budging at all, and he's getting pretty stressed by the whole process.

I have tried both soaking before shedding and not, I got told to leave them completely alone before shedding, because touching them while they are in that state is also stressful. Last time I did soak before shedding it didn't make a huge difference from what I saw. Dammed if I do, dammed if I don't it seems.
I can never tell when he sheds, he's so inconsistent lol.
It is very hard not to interfere, in this situation maybe I should've interfered more!

 

[Iguana]

@Chris1 I never thought of that, I use it for lip balm but I guess for a dry python it could work well too, may try that method if he allows it! Thanks

@Wokka Yikes I had no idea! Will stop using that immediately, was under the impression it was safe to use. Did also consider the wet bag method, but I am not sure what bag to use, all I have are pillowcases and I read that some fabrics when wet don't allow enough air though and the snake can suffocate.

 

[Iguana]

@kittycat17 @GBWhite
Here are some pics of the critter and setup, plus him in the chamomile tea bath.
I couldn't get a whole body shot so I have taken pics of some of the larger patches, he has these over quite a few spots on his body.

 

[kittycat17]

Are you sure that's skin left from the shed and not damage?


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[Iguana]

Are you sure that's skin left from the shed and not damage?


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It does flake off similar to the way shed does, and there are gaps in the shed skin itself where those patches are, so I think so. Not entirely sure why it's red though....

 

[kittycat17]

Yeah it just doesn't look like retained shed to me, looks more like a healing wound? Maybe from rubbing?


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[Buggster]

Does look kind of like a burn mark...
Like skin, burnt scales may peel away and make it seem like the python is in shed.
I'd stop soaking her immediately and make sure she's in a dryer climate. Put some antibiotic cream on those patches.

The snake itself appears very bright and not at all dull- while there may be patches of her last shed remaining, id put the burns/wounds ahead of them and treat them first.

Humid, warm climate + a wound like that may lead to an infection

 

[Pauls_Pythons]

Certainly looks like damage but could be from the difficult shed as much as from anything else.
Something I got hooked on by a very well known vet was sorbaline for difficult sheds, and it works. Rub liberal amounts into the skin a couple of times during the shed cycle to help the top layer soften.
Longer term question is why does he have problems getting his skin off? Husbandry is normally the cause or minor dehydration issues. Feeding wet food may help.

 

[Iguana]

@kittycat17 @Buggster
I don't think it's a burn, considering that the light is caged (and only on for 4 hours or so) and such. It certainly does look like one and I would think that if this was anyone else's snake, but it's very unlikely. Not ruling it out completely, just combined with the fact that I noticed them several hours after he shed, before the heat light was on, and the previous day his skin was cloudy, but fine.
His enclosure is pretty dry as is but I will make sure that it remains dry until the next shed Will probably change to newspaper.
I also just realized that the picture makes the patches look wet, but they are extremely dry and tough, they aren't open at all just red for some reason. Feel free to correct me if i'm wrong, but if they are dry shouldn't I avoid making them damp and such? With creams and the like.

@Pauls_Pythons Certainly was a difficult shed, the skin came out looking rather hole-y.
Will try sorbaline next shed thanks! Will hopefully help it go smoother.
And to be honest, I have no clue. I have tried many things, a few cycles ago I soaked him twice before he shed, it came out alright but I was told to leave him completely alone during the cycle. So for the last two cycles, I have been misting only. For some reason, maybe because we had a week of hot dry heat, or maybe that I didn't mist him right before he shed, could have caused it. I'm really puzzled as to why but i'm taking a solid guess that it's me not giving him enough humidity. The rats are wet when I give it to him, is that what you mean?
Also I think he may be drinking less water, not sure if that could contribute...
Also am looking into sealing his enclosure and buying a humidifier or fogger.

 

[Pauls_Pythons]

Shouldn't need a humidifier really. Humidity is what it is and pumping it up wont fix the problem.
Soak the food in water .......or you can try injecting water into the food before feeding. If you have access to fresh killed food its another option. I think the moisture in prey items crystallises when kept in the freezer more than a couple of months.

 

[pythoninfinite]

It definitely looks like a burn or an abrasion that has damaged the developing skin beneath the epidermis. You mention that you have lots of sticks etc in the enclosure, sometimes physical damage can be done by sharp or rough objects in the enclosure. What wattage is your heat source? If it is a high wattage globe, even with a cage it may be radiating unsafe levels of heat. A cold and sluggish snake can suffer localised burning very easily if it lies beneath a strong heat source, until it warms up the full body and is cognisant of the risk of overheating. You should always only supply enough heat to reach the desired temps, more than that is risky for a number of reasons.

Jamie

 

[Wokka]

I think Sorbaline is petrochemical derived and can cause skin irritation. That damage doesn't look particularly serious. I would leave it alone without topical treatments and keep it dry. It should repair in the next shed or so.

 

[Pauls_Pythons]

I hear what you saying Wokka but this is approved by the most highly regarded reptile vet in the country. I stand by the use of this product for animals that have problems with skin removal.
Having said that the root cause of the problem needs to be identified or its a never ending process. The product will not fix the problem only help with the symptoms.