Enclosure project for my Centralian Python Advice wanted

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Snifter

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Hey everyone, I bought a TV cabinet yesterday to turn into an enclosure Enclosure.jpg and this will be for my Bredli when she grows up as she is only 6months atm but its going to take me ages for what I have planed especially with the DIY fake rock wall.
Any way I'll start with mentioning the plans I have and if anyone see's flaws or cares to suggest improvements that would be much appreciated.
1st off this is solid pine so I am going to give it all a good sand and after adding a dark stain I will add multiple layers of a water-based Polyurethane to prevent ill effects on my Bredli . Would that make it snake safe? Are there better sealants to use?
I will be removing the side walls (not the frame) that divide it into 3 and make it into 1 large enclosure.
I will also remove the shelf above where the TV would sit.
Internal Dimensions would be 1878mm L x 875mm H or 1070mm H if top drawer removed and made into lowered floor x 580mm D narrowing to 450mm at each end.
Much of that space will be used up from fake rock wall feature and logs I add.
I like the idea I saw on youtube of turning the top drawer into a hide and making a hole at the bottom of the enclosure leading to this, then placing a hide over the hole.
Is it worth heating the drawer Hide? or do I leave the heated hide for the top of the enclosure?
Deciding whether it would be worth lining the inside of the enclosure with perspex incase the sealant isn't enough to protect the snake from the pine, but also to prevent the wood from absorbing any excrement, and to make cleaning easier.
I was considering turning the bottom drawer into the hide, and removing the top drawer to lower the floor... what do you's reckon?
Now for the main door Sliding vs Twin Opening ... are they equal with pros/cons ?
With the side doors I will replace the lead light with plain glass.... or should I use perspex?
I will make a fake rock wall / feature with foam that will cover the entire back and sides.
For heating I was going to use a heat cord, unless there is a better option, for the thermostat I'll be using HabiStat Digital Dimming Day/Night timer.
hs_hb_DigitalDimmer.jpg
And unless advised otherwise I was going to use lighting for visual purposes only, using a fluorescent bulb and also one of those moon lights on a timer.
Silly question but if I were to use a different bulb would it possible to have the 'Day Light" dim as it turns off and gradually light up when it comes on? I would do that with the moon light too if possible, even better if I could have it take 15-30min for them to reach full brightness visa/versa.
vent.jpgVentilation i'm looking at 245mmx145mm vents on the sides at the bottom of the warm end and top off cool end, all vents being close to the front if that makes sense?

Sorry for the long post, but I'm interested to hear all your thoughts.

Cheers Jason


 
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I would also consider raising the height of the cabinet to 1800mm-2000mm external dimension to allow more climbing room. And perhaps removing the walls of the cupboards on each sides and obviously remove the drawers all together making the entire cabinet the enclosure. Then remove the face of the cupboard doors and inserting plain glass to match the doors above them.
I could always have a tub under a hide with a hole leading to it for ease when taking the snake out.
Then have a removable fake rock structure hiding the face of the tub.
 
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[MENTION=39803]Snifter[/MENTION] here is a link to one that I did for my adult Bredli who is almost 3 metres. It may give you some tips. Note that i left the top shelf as a shelf & that is where the thermostat etc; live. I also kept the bottom cupboards as cupboards for storage of substrate bags, feeding gear etc; I was going to do a full on background as well but decided against it & am glad i did because my big girl uses EVERY INCH of her house when she is on the hunt. They do look great but you can cut your space by up to half & i didn't want to do that.

http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/general-reptile-discussion-42/glass-v-s-perspex-sliding-210843/
 
I just had a look at your enclosure, looks great and the bamboo looks great and taking up minimal room too.
Seeing as I might remove all the dividing walls I hope to still have more than enough room with the fake rock wall.
Found some large euculiptus branches laying about but they're still green so I'm hoping they'll dry out within the next few months.
 
G'day,

Pictured in my triple block of flats. It uses underfloor heat cords wired together to a thermostat. They are routed into the floor timbers and covered with floor tiles. Used a 4 meter cord for each. (ebay)
Lighting is a simple low wattage halogen downlight for the top two and a caged CFL for the lower one (screwed to the back). The eare wired to a block on the side which has the switch. In winter I can up the temp by leaving the lights on or run them via a timer to ensure they don't overheat the enclosure.

I converted the top and bottom doors to glass and use magnetic latches and keyed swivel locks with a barrel bolt on the inside of each left door. All from Bunnings
Even if the snakes can overcome the magnetic latch, they cant push the doors open. As soon as they release pressure the manets snap back so it 100% secure.

I used laminated glass and roller tracks for the main section and it looks awesome.

My Bredli and Woma are adult and it works well although if I could I'd prefer a bigger space like yours.
My advice on yours would be to keep it simple and make cutouts into the sides of the main part to allow for more room but keep the drawes etc. as they are.

I secured the back peices of ply with builders glue in case the thin metal staples there failed. No need to paint it inside and as you can see the unit looks great with the plain timber and some plastic plants and statue I found on a trip to PNG once. Bredli loves to sit in the statue and bask or wait for her feed.

I use big dog bowls as hides/water and have to place a heavy rck in the Woma's or else he tips in over! He's a weirdo.

Lastly I added casters to the bottom for easy moving.
Its power efficient and my friends say it looks like a nice piece of furniture, especially when the snakes are out in the light.

I've since vacated the bottom one as the cat was taunting the little jungle in there.

Hope this helps mate.


View attachment 306256
 
Hey cheers Gavatron I wonder if an enclosure the size of mine would be same for a Childrens and Bredli to share?
 
Hey guys, I originally was going to modify and extend the size of the TV cabinet shown for my Bredli when she grows larger but due to it's already heavy weight and the difficulty I would have with matching the wood grains when I extend the enclosure I have decided that I will use the cabinet as is (external size wise) for my Childrens python.
My question is... if I were to leave the dividing walls that separate the TV area and the sides that have the glass doors how would I go about ventilation? Each side of the cabinet is 464mm wide, if I were to have a plastic vent on each of the dividing walls and obviously a hole at the same height in the sides of the cabinet would I require a computer fan to pass sufficient air to the vents? I understand too much ventilation will reduce humidity so that's why I am here asking.
My 2nd option would be to as originally planned remove the dividing side walls which would eliminate (possible restrictions to ventilation).
My 3rd and final option would be not only remove the dividing side walls but also the divider directly above the TV section.
Dimensions off each option are- (Reminder this would be for a Childrens Python)
Option 1 : (L) 940mm x (H) 700mm x (D) 580mm
Option 2 : (L) 1,868mm x (H) 700mm x (D) 580mm
Option 3 : (L) 1,868mm x (H) 870mm x (D) 580mm
Note: I will be making fake rock walls for the back and sides, some being basking spots so that will chew up enclosure space and I also plan on having at least a 3rd hide with Sphagnum moss to help with the shedding stages.
So what option would you recommend?

Cheers peps :)
 
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