Possible re-occuring winter problem?

[Nake]

Hi Guys,

Last year my snake (childrens python) came out the other side of winter/brumation with a bad respiratory infection and what the vet diagnosed as a neurological virus. This virus made her have problems with muscle control (lack of and loss of grip) and she tilted her head to the side. I can't remember the name of it but apparently there are studies being carried out by a bloke in QLD. Apparently a high percentage of snakes dies from it but some, I think it was 5% or something, will survive in captivity. The neurological symptoms subsided once she started eating and summer came round.

Her set-up includes a heat mat and lamp at one end and a UV light. She has water and no heating at the other end.

This year I upped her temp a bit for the coming winter so currently she has an ambient temp of 20-24 (degrees celcius) but spot temps of 19 - 34 (using a 100W heat coil bulb). She is already starting to show mild symptoms (tiny bit swollen round throat) of a respiratory infection and I am worried that this is going to be a yearly thing. Last years vet bills were around the $500 mark and although I am happy to spend this on my snake I was wondering if anyone else has the same problems and if so what are they doing for prevention? Should I up the bulb to a 150W?

Sorry for the essay but wanted to include all details.

Cheers guys.

 

[Pythoninfinite]

If it's only mild swelling around the throat at this stage, it may only be an approaching shed - sometimes this can happen because the nostrils can become a bit blocked, causing a bit of throat puffing.

If the virus was determined to be Sunshine virus (named after the Sunshine Coast where the snakes that it was first isolated in came from), it is a researcher from Perth who is doing this groundbreaking research. Unless full bloods were done, and it was confirmed beyond doubt to be the Sunshine virus, I would be sceptical if it was this disease. RIs can present with a number of differing symptoms.

Keep the temps stable and don't let the animal chill.

Jamie

 

[Waterrat]

Nake, why are you letting your snake to brumate? Unless you're cooling HIM down for breeding, why to lower the temps?

 

[dangles]

Nake, why are you letting your snake to brumate? Unless you're cooling HIM down for breeding, why to lower the temps?

2 of mine are brumating with 12hr light and basking spots of 32 degrees during the daylight time. At night all cooling is off which is prob why with nights already at 0 in the western suburbs of sydney.

 

[Waterrat]

I was asking why to induce brumation instead of keeping them at the same temps all year round. With controlled heating it should be a problem. Is there any REASON for letting them brumate?

 

[Jarden]

Keep temps up all year round mate and you cant go wrong

 

[Nake]

Thanks Jamie - I have not noticed this.

Dangles - yep same case as me but I am only turning the heat off for 5 hours a night as I really didn't want her to feel the winter nights.

Waterrat - I am not cooling/inducing brumation. Last year I had trouble stabilising the temperature as I don't use a thermostat. As stated in my original post, I have upped the temperature this year, but I have noticed that her throat is starting to show signs of puffiness - I am trying to prevent my snake from having to go to the vet, which is what happened last year when she got an RI. I'm am thinking I need to up the wattage some more and get the temps higher. She is moving around a hell-of-a-lot though so I wasn't sure.

This is not about brumation - this is a question about whether anyone else has had similar problems with their snake. Please don't respond unless you've read the post properly - don't just use it for an ego boost. I am after a solution here guys.

Ok thanks Jarden - what I want to know though is - are my current temps high enough?

If I increase the ambient temp I think the spot temp will get too high?

 

[shell477]

This is not about brumation - this is a question about whether anyone else has had similar problems with their snake. Please don't respond unless you've read the post properly - don't just use it for an ego boost. I am after a solution here guys.

Edit: Nevermind. *Sighs*

 

[dragonlover1]

meow

 

[Leeloofluff]

I have a jungle recovering from r.I after I mucked up cooling her for breeding. My advice is keep the heat up year round, make sure temps are right, buy a thermostat, and see the vet. A checkup is cheaper than a full blown course of meds, and will put ur mind to rest

 

[Boidae]

Maybe it's late, but I'm actually having trouble comprehending some of what I'm reading...

 

[Reptar859]

I have a woma recovering from RI and have a heatmat on 24/7 in its hide ATM so he can keep warm at night.He is coming along very well.Have a read through this thread could save you some time at the vet. Good luck.http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/herp-help-38/alternative-reptile-care-167791/

 

[Waterrat]

Waterrat - I am not cooling/inducing brumation. Last year I had trouble stabilising the temperature as I don't use a thermostat.

And you're still not using thermostat this year? What can I say. .......... OMG

 

[5potted]

If the lamp isn't providing enough heat you need to up the wattage. I would highly recommend a thermostat to control the temperature as keeping perfect temperatures is essential to good health and avoiding the vet. I've bought many thermostats off ebay for less than $50 which is much less than the cost of a vet and antibiotics. Also a quick question regarding the heat mat, is this sitting inside the enclosure?

 

[Emilie]

Electricity bill?

;-)

I was asking why to induce brumation instead of keeping them at the same temps all year round. With controlled heating it should be a problem. Is there any REASON for letting them brumate?

 

[5potted]

Just read you're using a 100W bulb, I've had 50W bulbs easily get above 40 degrees, connect it to a thermostat and you should get the desired results (what size is the enclosure?) Also is the bulb pointing downwards or mounted on the side?

 

[Waterrat]

Electricity bill?

;-)

I have a dog but can't afford to by food for him. Should I put him into brumation?

 

[Nake]

If the lamp isn't providing enough heat you need to up the wattage. I would highly recommend a thermostat to control the temperature as keeping perfect temperatures is essential to good health and avoiding the vet. I've bought many thermostats off ebay for less than $50 which is much less than the cost of a vet and antibiotics. Also a quick question regarding the heat mat, is this sitting inside the enclosure?

No the heat mat is one of those that sticks to the bottom outside the enclosure.

Just read you're using a 100W bulb, I've had 50W bulbs easily get above 40 degrees, connect it to a thermostat and you should get the desired results (what size is the enclosure?) Also is the bulb pointing downwards or mounted on the side?

In Sydney in winter?

The thing I don't like about thermostats is (1) If they break you can fry your snake (2) the bulbs don't last as long. This is why I would rather have a stable ambient temp using different wattage bulbs.

The bulb is pointing downward in an enclosure that is 100cm x 50 x 50.

 

[Pythoninfinite]

I have a jungle recovering from r.I after I mucked up cooling her for breeding. My advice is keep the heat up year round, make sure temps are right, buy a thermostat, and see the vet. A checkup is cheaper than a full blown course of meds, and will put ur mind to rest

If the problem is not clear in its presentation, a vet "check" will not tell you anything. When a sympton such as this, with at least several possible causes presents itself, all the vet will tell you is to maintain a good husbandry regime and keep an eye on it. Vets don't have crystal balls (at least none that I know have them ) - there is little they can recommend for reptiles to prevent disease other than good husbandry. Reptiles don't have the same needs such as vaccinations for dog & cats, and vets can only treat reptile disease when it presents as a clear diagnosis.

Jamie

 

[thomasssss]

The thing I don't like about thermostats is (1) If they break you can fry your snake (2) the bulbs don't last as long. This is why I would rather have a stable ambient temp using different wattage bulbs.
.

sorry but i dont get your logic , without a thermostat it is easier to fry your snake as if the ambient temps get to high your globe will continue to heat up to ridiculous heat instead of cutting out , yes if a thermo breaks this can happen but without one its even bloody easier and if you use a dimming stat the globes will last just as long