Brown tree and night tigers advice/pointers

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Planky

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Hi so before I get some I would like to get some research from people who have kept these lovely snakes any pointers on how to set up there cage would be appreciated also heating requirements that they require. Basically if u know something then u know more then me, I'd like to know enuf to believe I could keep these snakes properly before I buy some.
 
For might tigers temps like Darwin or Kathrine so31 to 34 and high humidity lots a climbing areas that is my guess oh might want a cool hide to

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Sniper will know more
 
Yeah sniper is pretty knowledgeable I've gotten some good advice from him :) ..

I keep my hot end around 31-32 with hides on both the cool end and warm end giving the snake an option of where to hide. They also love to climb and mine seems to love bundles of vines to hide in. try and feed every second or third day. If u can make sure you get one that is feeding well. Mines a bugger to feed and is actually force fed atm.. I think sniper was in a similar situation and gave me a good tip to use a vibrating food dish that I haven't had a chance to try yet.

Keep in mind these guys are semi venomous although they are rear fanged so would have to have a good chew on u to inject a decent amount of venom. They are know to be "aggressive" and in my experience yes mines very cage defensive and very nippy when in the cage but as soon a u take him out he's a little pussy cat and is actually a pleasure to handle..

Let us know if u have any more specific question.
 
They are pretty easy to keep but are stressed easily so keep that in mind.
I have a hot spot of 30-32 and mist out the whole enclosure 2-3 times a week.
 
The Boiga species is a great step into the "venomous" species of the Aussie herp world, but they can be a handful if you are not ready or them. I can't fault the above advice because that's what I would recommend. In a nutshell though, you want to plan for the below if you are looking at a night tiger/brown banded tree snake.

Night Tigers are not a "pet snake". While they don't mind being handled, they do stress easily and are better to look at rather than take out on a day to day basis. They like a relatively high humidity of 55 to 70% and plenty of hides or foilage as they spend most of the day sleeping and become active in the evenings. If you can offer a tall enclosure with 2 or 3 hides and plenty foilage to hide in, you have won half the battle

Its been touched on, but they can be problematic feeders. My male is a great feeder and eats as long as he is active but outrightly refuses to eat if there is even the slightest thing out of place. My female is a pain and constantly needs stimulation to eat. I can sit there for 45 minutes with a fuzzy rat or smallish adult mouse and a pair of forceps twitching and moving it to pretend its alive and maybe get her to eat it 1 out of 5 times. Eventually I switched to a vibrating dish they use for beardies and crickets and now she has no issue. I feed every 4 to 7 days unless they are shedding.

Whilst they are mildly venomous, don't treat them like a python because of it. Their rear fangs are pretty delicate and damage easily and can put them off their food if hurt in anyway. Their venom is still in debate and like a bee, some folks are just more sensitive than others.

Keep their water fresh. I change mine every three days purely because I watch my male who always has a drink when he comes out of his hide in the evening. I noticed after a while that he ignored his water if it was older than 3 days. Considering his sense of smell was better than mine, I took his word for it and change the water every 3 or 4 days.

Ill find some more info and PM you.
 
Its been touched on, but they can be problematic feeders. My male is a great feeder and eats as long as he is active but outrightly refuses to eat if there is even the slightest thing out of place. My female is a pain and constantly needs stimulation to eat. I can sit there for 45 minutes with a fuzzy rat or smallish adult mouse and a pair of forceps twitching and moving it to pretend its alive and maybe get her to eat it 1 out of 5 times. Eventually I switched to a vibrating dish they use for beardies and crickets and now she has no issue. I feed every 4 to 7 days unless they are shedding.
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I agree with everything you posted Sniper but I would like to add I have had the exact feeding experiences with mine.
Anyone who has not dealt with finicky feeders previously will run into trouble with this species, of that I have no doubt.
 
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quick question im buying one next fornight and if this snake does sink its fangs into what exactly is the poisions affects? and if it bites while its still a hatcho should i worry?
 
on another note is there any way of finding out if you are alergic or will react to its poison before i get the snake?
 
Nope :) You develop allergic reactions over time. Nobody is actually born with an allergy, you develop it. It's really just your immune system trying to kill you :lol:

There's nothing more i can add on the topic of BTS that hasn't been added, except to say I think they make a terrific captive. They can be flighty (like anything) but tend to overcome that shyness and nervousness with age ;)
 
Darwin-Boy, if you somehow do manage to get envenomated considering these are rear fanged snaked that (in general) take a bit to get penetration with their fangs, the general sensation is very similar to a bee or wasp sting in that it burns and is uncomfortable for a time and unless you have a sensitivity to the venom, will not be life threatening at all.

As hatchos, just be prepared that they are not like other snakes at all and are a whole new learning experience in themselves. Fire me a PM if you need anything mate, Im not that far away from you. But in saying that, there are a few folks on this forum who have more experience with these guys than I do and can also help out
 
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can you guys give me an PM about olives im not sure about those either
 
quick question im buying one next fornight and if this snake does sink its fangs into what exactly is the poisions affects? and if it bites while its still a hatcho should i worry?

A "good" bite from a BTS gives me about 2 weeks pain free from an arthritic hip and knee. Strange way to take your medicine I know but it works for me. I dont recommend it though due to the possibility of sensitization leading to possible severe reaction.
 
I have half a dozen night tigers and they all have different temperaments. A couple will eat from my hand whilst holding them with the other, others require a bit of secrecy, and one is highly demanding only eating moving objects... only one is a nutcase and keeps you on your toes whilst handling (it has a 2 minute time limit) one will never bite, the rest are a bit sneaky... but basically they are pretty easy to keep, I have had them for years and have never had a full bite, just a sneaky nibble...
 
Have you let anyone in the medical community know about this?


A "good" bite from a BTS gives me about 2 weeks pain free from an arthritic hip and knee. Strange way to take your medicine I know but it works for me. I dont recommend it though due to the possibility of sensitization leading to possible severe reaction.
 
It's interesting because I know that overseas (Singapore I think) they have developed a new painkiller from cobra venom that is supposed to be 20x more powerful than morphine but with no side effects. Clinical trials are starting this year from memory.

You could be onto something with the BTS.
 
I've also heard of the beneficial properties of BTS venom and arthritis relief. Not sure where I heard it from, might have been Bryan Fry?

Interesting considering the sheer numbers of BTS in Guam. They could make use of them if a bit of research into the venom took place.
 
Some people in the US have been using "Bee Therapy" for all sorts of issues but the people with arthritis say its amazing.... other than the multiple stings part ;)
 
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