10 day old murray darlings, still not eating

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Ninox

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3 QUESTIONS
1. my 10 day old murray darlings do not sem interested in pinkies is there any sure way to get them to feed?
2. One has what looks like a swallon eye, full of fluid, possible first sloth problem what should I do, do I try to remove it and releive the fluid?
3. I live in the Lkae Macquarie area, what store would have best price supplies and staff with info?:?
 
Personally l don't even try feeding my hatchies until they are three weeks old or seven days after their first shed/slough....solar 17 [Baden]
 
Personally l don't even try feeding my hatchies until they are three weeks old or seven days after their first shed/slough....solar 17 [Baden]

I second this & if you keep poking food at them before they are ready they can associate the food item with stress etc & then you will have a problem...... leave them alone for 2 solid weeks from now & 75% if not more will smash the food item offered.
 
As said above! I would also be offering them velvets or small weaners. MD's have no problems taking them. I find you get a much better response with a haired animal over a pinkie. I also like to keep a container with warm water in it to heat up the food source, as one starts to cool swap it for a warm one. This method works very well with any hatchies. 10 Days is nothing, let them shed then give them some more time as said above. I wouldn't even stress if they haven't eaten for 5-6 weeks from hatching. Patience is they key!!!
 
i ,personally, don't offer food until they are 5-6 weeks old(3-4 weeks after their first shed)i find they have alot stronger feeding responce by then and most will take their first feed.the nonfeeders i try every 5 days after that.
 
Thanks for the response so far everyone, it has put my mind at ease, I will leave them alone for another 2 weeks yet. Any feedback on questions 2 and 3?

Cheers
 
Question 2: Possibly call a herp vet to come and visit your little guy, so you don't overbear him with transport? I know he may be a bit far, but Dr. Mark Simpson from Sugarloaf is brilliant with reptiles. It would probably be costly though, considering the distance.
And, Question 3: Also, not heaps close... but next to the McDonalds at Warners Bay, near the Ice Skating Stadium is a purpose built reptile and fish store, it would have everything that you require.
Hope this helps.
 
I cannot imagine you having too much trouble getting md's to feed. Morelia are pretty good. You just have to be patient, it is only very early days yet.
 
Quest 2: This is quite probably a blockage in the duct that drains the fluid from under the spectacle into the mouth. Unfortunately, if this is the case then there is a good chance you will lose that snake. A vet can prescribe an ointment, and even remove the eye spectacle (which isn't a great option either) as it will never grow back therefore leaving the eye unprotected for life.
Have an EXPERIENCED HERP VET check this one for you.
Good luck.

PS was this little fella's egg mouldy at all?
 
A couple of eggs ended upmoulded towards the end and most were slightly collapsed. Does the mould potentially lead to problems?

I had 4 eggs, the largest 4 that did not end up hatching and the snakes within the eggs were the largest, but seemed not fully formed. It seemed like the 4 egss in direct contact with the vermiclite failed to hatched, all others on top of the clump hatched. Is it possible the bottom 4 werer starved of oxygen?

Cheers
 
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