New coastal hatchling is not eating after 3 weeks

[Slateman]

Post from OuZo

PostPosted: Nov 13, 2005 - 05:54 PM Post subject: Southern Cross Reptiles Competition on APS
Well as others have said, don't panic yet because 3 weeks isn't long enough to stress too much. Check all conditions in the enclosure are ok like temperatures and gradient, the cage isn't too large and make sure it has enough hides and isn't in an area with too much traffic so it can see you all the time. When offering food, don't offer too often, not more than every 4 days or so so it doesn't get bombarded and stressed with someone going into the cage all the time. Try different sized foods when you offer as some snakes don't like tiny food items, and some don't like a challenge! Took us ages to get our Diamond onto larger rats when he could eat four fuzzies in a row because he just didn't seem comfortable tackling something so big just yet. If worse comes to worst, try scenting with items such as chickens, skinks, other birds etc, but none of that really needs to be done until it hasn't eaten for a while longer yet. We also have a very fussy coastal who didn't eat for a very long time when we got him and find now that placing a pinky mouse in his cage and putting a big piece of black melamine over the top and turning all the lights out works the trick. It's always gone by morning. You can also find that some snakes have different requirements to eat lol. Some like to be hanging from a branch, some like to be in their hide, our little coastal has to have it placed on top of his hide or he won't eat it lol. If he knocks it off he wants another one Laughing

 

[Slateman]

Post by soulweaver

There is a settling in time, so three weeks isn't a huge issue. At first you look at its tail and see what condition it is in. This helps to determine how much time you have to play with before you really need to start panicing.

you need to find out what the snake is doing, if he/she spends a lot of time hiding and not out of their hide, then they could be scared and not happy with the enviroment they are in. So you should explore cage set up.

another thing i would look at is heat, is the temps in the cage setup to suit the coastal, is it too warm, i.e the snake is spending too much time in the cool end, is there not enough heat and the snake is looking for warmth.

after you have satisfied the above i would then start looking into ways of feeding. Some snakes only like to eat when it is dark, some prefer to eat in the middle of the day.

is the prey item too big or too small? i would try different sizes. I would also try mice and rats, as some snakes are fussy when it comes to prey.

I would also find out how the snake ate in the past, and was the snake fed live and not thawed rats/mice. then you might need to feed a live to get the snake eating, and then a thawed one staight after to get the snake to start eating what you want it too eat.

soulweaver

 

[Slateman]

Post by Dicco
PostPosted: Nov 13, 2005 - 06:04 PM Post subject: Southern Cross Reptiles Competition on APS
Ok, as there are many variables I assume that over the past three weeks it has been housed in a click clack or small tub like container and is being tried with pinkie/fuzzie rats.

First check the temps, make sure it's at 31-2 at the hot spot and that there is a cool end for it to retreat to. Make sure that the snake is in an area with minimal traffic and that the enclosure is not too big, and possibly cover part of the enclosure to make the snake feel more secure. It should have access to a hide at the cool end or even more than one in different parts of the enclosure and shouldn't be handled during this time.

Try feeding the snake at night when it is most active and try scenting the rat with a skink first. You could use some small tongs to jiggle the mouse near the snake(but not in it's face)to make it seem alive but don't use your hands, they can be quite intimidating to a tiny snake. If this fails try just putting the rat in and leaving it as the snake may not feel safe feeding in your precence, vary the prey size by adding pinkies and fuzzies as it may think that a certain food item is too small or large and you could also try fresh killed prey.

Just remember that snakes sometimes just need to settle in, these things take time. It's always good to give it a couple of days in between feed attempts too, you don't want to go and panic and push your snake, they will eat when they're ready, by pushing the snake your just stressing it.

 

[Slateman]

Post by danep
PostPosted: Nov 13, 2005 - 06:19 PM Post subject: Southern Cross Reptiles Competition on APS
**** You just get new coastal hatchling it is 3 weeks since you put snake to your new enclosure and snake is not eating.
**** How do you react to this situation?


Firstly check all your temperatures and ensure that you have a good gradient from warm end to cool end. warm end up around the 30 mark and cool end around the 20-25 mark depending on the size of the enclosure.

Ensure the enclosure size is not too large for the new snake.

There will always be a settling in period for the new snake and this can cause them not to eat for a while. Be sure not to handle your new snake during the settling in period.

Ensure the food item is not too large for the snake.

Try scenting the food item with a skink

The best piece of information would be obtained by finding out how the breeder/person you purchased the snake from housed the snake prior to you getting it. That way you can try and recreate the breeders setting as best as possible and hope that the snake will then feed again. Other than that monitor the snake and should it lose condition that would be the time that you need to worry.

I had a hatchling carpet about 2 months ago that ate for the first time since i had it and it went over 3 months without a feed and lost no condition even though constant temp was maintained with a heat mat.

 

[Slateman]

Post by newtosnakes
PostPosted: Nov 13, 2005 - 07:09 PM Post subject: Southern Cross Reptiles Competition on APS
The first thing I can say is - DON'T PANIC. If you stress out and constantly go back and forth waving your head infront of the cage to make sure he is ok, you are only stressing him out more and this will make the situation worse. Check the feeding history (if possible) from the original owner, what, when, how, was he previously eating. Try to recreate the past feeding patterns until you can get the little guy (for purposes of this question, the snake is a he....) to eat.
Obviously, check the temps of the enclosure (with a good quality thermometer) and make sure they fall within the optimum range. (32deg for his basking spot and falling to around 25deg at the cool end).
Is he otherwise showing healthy behaviours? If he has hidden in his hiding places constantly for the last 3 weeks, I would begin to rethink the layout and position within the house of the enclosure. If he is in a high-traffic area and there is no option of moving him until he settles, try covering up a portion of the cage to allow him some peace and quiet whilst he settles into his new home.
Snakes are not like humans, 3 weeks without a feed is not cause for Code Red panic attacks.
Attempt to feed different food items, if mice don't work, try rats. If possible scent with skinks or birds. The option of placing about 5mm of skink tail into the mouth of the mouse is always there to coax him into eating. If feeding thawed, try to leave them over night in the enclosure and then leave the snake in peace. Chances are the bubby mouse will be eaten over night when the snake feels safe and secure. Remember, during and for a little while after eating, snakes are at their most vulnerable. They are not able to get away as fast as normal and therefore will not eat if they feel slightly at risk. Their senses are much more acute than ours!!
Always leave around 3-4 days between offers of food, constantly opening his cage and shoving food items in his face is not going to help the situation.
If the refusal to eat continues to the point where he is beginning to lose condition, take him to a reputable herp vet to ensure there is not an underlying condition.
Is he about to shed? If so, it is normal for him to be off his food for a while.
Patience is a virtue.... Laughing

 

[Slateman]

Post by JandC_Reptiles

PostPosted: Nov 13, 2005 - 09:20 PM Post subject: Southern Cross Reptiles Competition on APS
COMPLETE ANSWER?

CHECK ENCLOSURE DETAILS:
Use smallish click clack type enclosure with a hide as the snake will feel more secure. Check temp & gradient making sure these are at correct levels. Darken sides of enclosure so the snake feels confined/secure. Place in a room that is low in traffic/noise/light etc

CHECK WITH BREEDER:
Most important, ask if it has previously fed & what on. Live/fresh/frozen thawed? etc. Ask for a chart if the breeder has kept 1.

TRY DIFFERENT METHODS:
Such as placing food item in the hide, under a perch while snake is hanging, on a coil while snake is on floor, teasing, feeding just a tail etc

PHOTOPERIOD:
Check that the light emmitting the enclosure is not excessive (15hrs maximum IMO)

CONTINUE?

HANDLING:
Avoid handling & give the snake a chance to settle into its new enviornment. At 3 weeks it should still be in quaruntine for another week or so anyway. I would wait till it was quaruntined & feeding before handling.

SCENTING:
Brain a pinkie, commercial scents, broth, etc

ASK FOR ADVICE:
Internet forum such as this, A veterinary, A fellow herper/herpers etc

NOW THE DONTS:
Dont scent with skinks, dont feed skinks, dont leave un-eaten food in the enclosure, dont continuously try but give it 4-7 days inbetween. Dont tortue the snake by hitting/scaring it with food. Dont force feed, dont use live food un-attended (if using live make sure they are your own stock that is worm/parasite free)


The correct answer imo would be do not panic, make sure husbandry details are adequate (caging,temps,photoperiod,hide,perch), contact the breeder you purchased it from & ask him/her more about the snake in question. Continue trying to feed the appropriate food items at weekly intervals. Avoid handling etc,. Ask many people for advice if you dont know...