Outdoor cage/aviary questions

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David275

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Hi all,

Later on this year i was planning on building some outdoor aviaries/cages in school (it's an Ag school, so there is a very good metalwork setup).
The aviaries/cages would most likely be suited for my future herps such as adult ridge tailed monitors (ackies) or adult carpet pythons.
I have looked at different designs and am curious as to what size mesh schould be used, e.g. wire thickness, width of spacings etc and also how you attached it to the cage, e.g. tack weld, cable tie etc
I understand the concepts of the design such as frame structure but the specefics i'm curious about.

It would be greatly appreciated if you could give me any tips or post your designs and explain the steps and materials you used.

Cheers,
David
 
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i use 'bird aviary mesh' for my young laceys and have never had a problem.. and they are slippery little suckers!. if you want to be extra safe maybe use something called mouse and snake mesh.. i think it is only about a quarter inch squareing.. or smaller. im not sure the size of the mesh i use.. i get it from bunnings :). good luck.. and your herps will LOVE it!
 
For adult snakes I just normally use bird mesh but have used plastic coated cyclone fencing for big adults that want to leave the premises
But for younger ones who are generally more nosey and tend to rub against the mesh I found this plastic mesh that they use in aquaculture to make fingerling cages
Works like a charm and has virtually zero abrasive qualities
Instead of welding or ties I use a strip of light metal riveted/screwed from the inside to out to lock it in place [no sharp bits inside]
I always provide some roof area covered preferably with exterior ply or floor boards; not with metal
Metal can get really hot and create radiated heat problems if used in large flat areas
If you use tubular metal framing you can hide any electricals in there very simply and tidily
Hides up high and down low to give them choices
One top hide and one bottom hide in shaded area, others in sun
Hollow logs by far the prettiest in aviaries
I usually split the log so that I can easily gain access if required by just lifting off the top 1/3rd
Couple of dowels into holes in the bottom section keep the tops securely on
Try to ensure the logs wont 'catch and collect' rain water
Usually pretty simple to do by trial and error
Clay makes excellent floor so long as it doesnt get too wet
Avoid this by using drippers to any plants instead of a hose
A tyre with a bit of dark plastic as a liner then landscaped into place with damp clay makes a great swimming pool
Dark ponds seem to attract less algae blooms etc
Just cut away the top section of the tyre first
Bottom section and the bit that hits the road give plenty of strength for shape
Raise the pond slightly above ground level and taper the base/liner to one point
Silicone a drain plug in place and a pipe to outside the aviary as most snakes love to swim but usually also use it as their toilet so draining to outside is very handy
 
Thanks longqi,you have helped out more people than you know lovey,with your straight forward no crap approach.my son has the same project in tech class,awesum teacher,and he is hoping to make something similar.however me the mummy bear has also gleened much info from you,thanks so much.im all fired up now i know what materials i should start getting.
 
One important thing I forgot to mention is the position of the aviary
The angle of the sun changes pretty dramatically between summer and winter
So if you put it together in winter place your hides where they wont get too hot in summer
 
mine have 6mm mesh, theyre very sturdy and im getting the same guy to put another 3 section aviary at the other end of the yard very soon. (which will get much better sun cos the house wont be shading it.)

i brought everyone in on friday since the sun has moved and theyre only getting 4-6 hours of weak sun at best,...most days they werent getting any cos of the consistantly crap weather.

http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/general-reptile-discussion-42/rennos-finished-145678/

everything is rivetted in mine.
 
Thanks everyone.

Longqi, i was curious how your frame is designed and how you attach the ply wood onto the frame and is it possible for any photos?
 
I was thinking of using wel mesh around 12mm x 12mm. It is strong and easy to weld with

This is the design i was hoping to create. Forget the measurements it's a picture of the internet.
Absco-Aviary-Flat-Roof-Kit-15301FK.jpg
 
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My frame was of galvanised mild steel tube from some greenhouses on the farm that had shade cloth draped over them originally
About 50mm and not light
Square box section or L shape would have been easier and if I did one again I would use that
[unless I find some more free tube]
The corners were mostly the original screw/clamp fittings but some were welded
[Bit of fun for the kids learning how to weld old gal iron tube..??]
On the back and sides I put diagonal braces top to bottom
One brace across the roof
It was strong enough to hold a dance party on
But the bits were free so overkill was ok
Attached plywood using the roofing screws they use with corrugated iron and a screw gun
Used that thin strip of steel for holding mesh in place [the stuff buiders use all the time with evenly spaced holes already in it]
Will try to find some old photos but that was pre-digital days and most of those are in a storage unit in Darwin

Looks great
Go for it
The only thing I would be tempted to change is the amount of steel they could lie against
Sometimes snakes can be bloody stupid
Steel can get really hot
If that roof is all steel I would be tempted to change that to 1/2 ply and 1/2mesh to avoid possible radiated heat
Depending on things like prevailing winds etc is how you will position it
North wind usually hot
South wind usually cold etc
But huge variables depending on your location and local micro-climate so cant help you there
 
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So are you saying that you recommend only the roof to be part ply or the side walls be ply also.
 
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