Enclosures, is bigger better?

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RYLA33

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Hi all,
Just recently purchased my first Stimson python. Very stoked with the little guy.
I've been told to keep a hatchi in a click clack. I would just like to know is there any rule of thumb regarding enclosure size with reference to the size of the snake. or do I up size the enclosure at a certian stage. The little guy seems very inquizitive.... almost as though he could do with a bigger space??
 
I've heard that the enclosure length should be about half the length of the snake that's in it, not sure about depth, and height would depend on whether it's arboreal or not.

Hopefully someone with more of an idea can help.
 
If its a hatchling I recommend keeping it in the click clack for a while at least. Get the little guy feeding well and settled till its a yearling or so and then you can start thinking about a new enclosure. I would think an enclosure measure 700 x 450 x 450 to be absolutely plenty of room for an adult Stimmi.

Sometimes if you move young snakes from their tubs to a cage that is too big they stress out, stop feeding etc etc etc. I just tried to move some yearling Darwins into some adult cages and they cracked the ****s and wouldnt feed. After a few weeks they are back in their tubs and feeding well again. And these yearlings are big, approx 4ft and eating 120gram rats weekly.
 
Just get the heating right - place a couple of hinds in there a foam strip in between the sliding glass and the snake should be fine.
 
Quote From Snake Ranch "Much can be gained by providing your newly arrived hatchling with the opportunity to 'settle in' before any handling or other potentially stressful interaction is undertaken. If conditions are suitable, and privacy is granted, the reptile will adapt very quickly to its new surroundings. On the other hand, if this initial period is interrupted with bouts of handling, or if other factors lead to stress and uncertainty for the reptile, the settling in period can extend indefinitely. Stress in reptiles can be regarded by the keeper as cumulative, with each bad experience (e.g. being handled while frightened) adding to the store of earlier negative experiences. As exciting as a new arrival can be, the hobbyist that respects the needs of the animal and resists the urge to show it off in the initial period of settling-in, will be rewarded with a much better proposition in the long haul.

It is crucial that the hatchling's enclosure is entirely appropriate from the onset - eg with provision of ideal thermal conditions, hiding facilities, water bowl, etc. Deficiencies in the enclosure such as not being escape-proof, being too cold, too hot, too wet, or having inadequate hiding facilities etc, can cause a significant setback. Again, beginners who do not have a copy of Care of Australian Reptiles in Captivity (order from Australian Reptile Park) need to get a copy before going further, in order to gain sufficient insight as to what sort of caging and husbandry procedures will be required.

In enclosures with glass or screen viewing fronts, fast movements by the keeper may frighten the new arrival, and in the case of very nervous specimens, it may be worthwhile affixing a sheet of paper to the outside of the enclosure to block the reptile's view and thereby minimise disturbance. It is best to delay the offer of food for a week or so".
 
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