Malaysia, Taman Negara

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moloch05

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Greetings everyone,

This is the start of what will be a very large post with lots of photos. I will be adding to it every day or two for quite awhile so that the photos will span multiple pages.

I spent six nights last week at Taman Negara, a huge national park that is located in the centre of peninsular Malaysia. This is one of my favourite places and I have visited it a number of times. Taman Negara protects the largest extent of untouched rainforest that remains on the peninsula. I had hoped to include photos of numerous species of reptiles but these proved to be difficult to locate. I did find what I think to be many interesting animals and I will post photos of these.

This region of Southeast Asia is thought to have someone of the oldest of all rainforests so it is not surprising that diversity of about everything is high. I photographed nearly 80 species of butterflies in those few days all within 9km of Kuala Tahan, the park headquarters. I saw another 30+ species that were not cooperative for photos. At night, I found many strange and beautiful moths at lights around the accommodation area. Invertebrates were abundant within the forest and I found many during both day and night walks.

June is a month that is about midway between the dry months of the start of the year and the monsoon of Oct-Dec. I experienced some rain each day and on a couple of days, there were heavy afternoon downpours. Trails were wet and slippery but I saw few frogs at night and also very few mosquitos. Leeches, though, were numerous and a nuisance. My socks were often dripping with blood after an all-day forest trek.

Taman Negara has an excellent infrastructure. Tracks were well marked so there was no need for a guide. I loved to walk many kms into the forest. Once I walked beyond 2-3 kms from the headquarters, I rarely saw any other humans on the track. If I remained quiet and listened, I could hear the special animals of the park. I loved to hear the beautiful melodic songs of the White-handed Gibbons that sang each morning. Sometimes, I heard the loud “whooping” of Siamang, the largest member of the Gibbons. Other sights and sounds included the calls of Great Argus, Banded/Garnet Pittas, Rhinoceros/Helmeted Hornbills and various mammals. Taman Negara has a healthy population of Tiger, Leopard, Asian Elephants, and a large forest buffalo, Malay Tapir, Sun Bear and others. Unfortunately, most of these are shy. Footprints or piles of dung (elephant) were usually the only indication that the large animals were in the area. I sometimes heard growls of unseen mammals and then heard them run deeper into the forest but rarely saw the source of the racket. Once I had a fright when I heard a loud grunt followed by the sight of a Bearded Pig that bolted across the trail a few meters in front of me.

My trip to Taman Negara began with a 3-hour bus trip from Kuala Lumpur to Kuala Tahan. At Kuala Tahan, there was a break for an hour followed by a 3-hour boat trip up the Tembeling River to the park headquarters at Kuala Tahan. I stayed in a hostel at the Mutiara Resort that is situated on the border of the national park. This was excellent value and it included a buffet breakfast at the resort's restaurant. The hostel was air-conditioned so was comfortable for sleeping at night. Temperatures at Taman Negara ranged from a high in the mid-30s C to a low of mid-20s C at night. Humidity was always high so a walk in the park felt like a walk in a green house.

... now, the photos.

The best way to reach Taman Negara was by boat from the jetty at Kuala Tembeling.
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The journey upriver initially passed through cleared pastures or areas with secondary growth:
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After about an hour, hills with primary forest came into view:
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After three hours, the boat arrived at Taman Negara:
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These are views of the village that was situated on the opposite bank from the national park. A road has been built to this village but the trip by road is not nearly as scenic as the trip up the river. This village has grown massively since my last visit in 1998. There are a number of floating restaurants and shops on the opposite bank. Water taxis ferried the tourists back and forth between the park and the village.
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One morning, I climbed Bukit Teresik, a hill located not far from Kuala Tahan. The hill was only 400m in height but the climb was a steep and sweaty one. The view from the summit was superb. This is a photo into the centre of the park and of Gunning Tahan, the tallest mountain in peninsular Malaysia. The adventurous can trek to the summit of the mountain but this is a hard 6-7 day trek through the rainforest. Gunung Tahan is the distant peak on the left of this photo:
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I often walked on a track along the Tahan River. This year, the river was muddy for a few days near the park headquarters. There had been heavy rain in the mountains that feed this river and there was obviously some soil erosion underway.
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After a few nice days at the end of the week, the water cleared and looked like tea due to tannins from the leaves. The river was full of fish of the Cyprinid family. Fish like Tiger Barbs and relatives were abundant. This area near Lata Berkoh (a small waterfall 9km from the headquarters) was particular nice.
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Taman Negara is home to the tallest species of tree in Southeast Asia. These trees are called Tualangs (Koompassia excelsa) and they remind me a little of the giant redwoods of California.
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Arachnids and unusual invertebrates

Spider 1: This was an interesting little jumping spider.
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Spider 2: I don't think that I have ever seen a yellow spider before. This was a big spider that was lowering itself from a tree. It was about at face height when I almost walked into it one night. Once disturbed, it turned and climbed back to the branches.
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Spider 3: Spiders like this were numerous on the forest floor:
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Spider 4: This one had an unusual pattern on the abdomen:
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Whip Scorpion: I saw of few of these on the ground and on trees at night. These were wary and quick. They were hard to approach for photos.
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Termites were abundant. I often came across trails like this:
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This pentatomid was huge:
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I don't know the family but these grasshoppers were shaped much like the monkey hoppers.
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This bizarre fly was one of my favourite sightings. Unfortunately, I only saw this single individual and managed to take one quick photo before it vanished.
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Caterpillar 1:
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Caterpillar 2:
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Caterpillar 3:
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Caterpillar 4: This one appears to have met an unpleasant fate.
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Centipede:
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Giant Millipede:
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This is an Asian member of family Derbidae. What a strange face!
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A big Reduviid:
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Planthoppers:
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Another really strange Hemipteroid:
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Cerambycid?
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That sure is great photography with well written narrative. Those bugs are amazing!
I look forward to your next installment. Thanks for sharing your adventure with us.

By the way, what lens and flash did you use for the close-ups of the inverts?
They're awesome pics with extra-ordinary detail.
 
could you swim in the water or is that a no-no? looks beautiful over there!!
 
Thanks very much, Bushman. At night, I normally used a Canon 100mm macro with a diffused 480EX flash. During the day, I mostly used a Tamron 18x250mm zoom lens. It is not as sharp for macros but it is much more versatile and it is easier to frame the animals.

Townsvillepython and Ausherps,
The water was clear and beautiful near the end of my trip. These rivers are draining from the uninhabited wilderness of the national park and are safe for swimming. I would love to go back again with an underwater camera. This fish diversity was great and many were colourful. Some of the species like Rasboras and Barbs are used as freshwater aquarium fish.


Regards,
David
 
Mantids, Katydids, Cockroach and Gingers

I think the the following mantid was one of the most interesting insects that I encountered. I found this one on the night of my arrival. It was climbing up the wall of a cabin. If it had been in the leaf litter or on a dead branch of a shrub, I probably would not have spotted it at all. What amazing camouflage!
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Mantids were abundant and diverse. Most were either green or brown and rather typical in appearance.
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Others had more usual shapes:
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This one was a juvenile that stood with it abdomen curled up and forward. I think that it is a juvenile of the same species as the above mantid.
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... I love the eyes of this one. Oriental?
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This mantid was tiny. When I first spotted it, it was standing upright in a normal mantid posture. When it realized that I was looking at it, it lay flat and looked much like a tiny stick on the leaf.
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Katydids were also abundant. I saw the largest katydid that I have ever encountered one morning near the reception of Mutiara Resort. It was green but had a standard sort of shape. The only thing odd was its enormus size.


This was the most common katydid that I saw around lights at night:
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... another species:
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... and another. I should have taken a dorsal shot since this one was much wider than most katydids.
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... a different looking katydid:
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This cockroach was huge. I found it and others on the trunks of trees within the rainforest.
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In this humid forest, fungi was everywhere. Some of the fungi were colourful and large like these:
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These lovely fungi remind be of wine goblets.
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... tiny red fungus growing next to some recently fallen fruits.
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Various members of the ginger family were one of the dominant plant of the forest floor. Some of these were flowering.
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... some ginger plants were tall and had broad leaves:
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Wow they are beautiful shots...love them esp. the mantids...i used to have a few pets that were bright green like that!
 
Thank you David. I'll look into getting the Tamron lens, as it's compatible with my Nikon but unfortunately the Canon lens isn't. I've been seeing some great quality photos from Canon lenses lately, so I think it'll be my next choice of camera. Your photographs are amazingly crisp and your work is inspiring.
What camera are you using?
Thanks very much, Bushman. At night, I normally used a Canon 100mm macro with a diffused 480EX flash. During the day, I mostly used a Tamron 18x250mm zoom lens. It is not as sharp for macros but it is much more versatile and it is easier to frame the animals.
...
Regards,
David

This latest installment is awesome as well! I agree that the mantis shots are particularly good. The very low camera angle lends an intimacy to the images that is very engaging. Great work!
 
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Amazing photos Dave, you're lucky to see such a diverse array of inverts. Can't wait till we get to see the reptiles!
 
Ah fanastic! I can't wait for the rest of the photos. I'll be watching this thread intently.

-H
 
Thanks, all.

Bushman, I use a Canon 40D body.

Jordo,
I am afraid that the herp photos from Taman Negara will be a little disappointing. I will have good shots of a few beauties from Fraser's Hill. I will post those once I finish with Taman Negara.

Thanks Henry.


I saw a variety of dragonflies and damselflies along the creeks and trails. Here are a few that I managed to photograph:
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This one had a strange territorial(?) behaviour. Two would hove and face each other and then slowly ascent to a height of 5m or so.
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This one had an odd body shape with wings much longer than the length of the abdomen:
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I only saw these along small streams within the forest. These had lovely wings that were a shimmering green colour in flight:
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Thanks, rockstar_jones.

... now, one of my favourite groups of animals.

I had hoped to photograph a variety of reptiles while at Taman Negara but this proved to be not possible. I suppose that the snakes were waiting on the frogs to emerge and the frogs are awaiting the heavy rains of September. I decided to concentrate on the butterflies that were everywhere. I was just staggered by both the diversity and the numbers. Around noon, I sometimes walked to Lubok Simpon, a sandy bank and swimming area. Butterflies often landed there in large, mixed-species group. The colour was just amazing. Also, if I stood still, the butterflies would land on me and my equipment. It seems that they liked to lick salty things and my clothes, backpack and camera bag were perpetually wet and smelly with perspiration. It felt a little like walking through a butterfly house at a zoo with so many butterflies hovering around me.

I have many butterfly photos to post so will follow the family sequence.

Common Mormon (Papilio polytes) -- I saw a few of these lovely swallowtails everyday.
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Banded Peacock (Papilio palinurus) -- I only saw a single individual of this species. It stopped for a drink by the river just as a boat passed by and produced a big wave. This frightened off the swallowtail and it never returned.
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Common Rose (Pachliopta aristolochiae) -- these were common and beautiful swallowtails with a red body.
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... mating pair:
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Great Mormon (Papilio memnon) -- I saw a few of these each day.
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Common Jay (Graphium doson) -- these were the most abundant swallowtail on sandbanks and rocks in the riverbed.
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A Malay kid took his shoes off and left them near the water's edge. It was not long before the shoes were covered with several species of swallowtails and other butterflies. Swallowtails included a few Common Bluebottles (Graphium sarpedon), many Common Jay (Graphium doson) and one Five-bar Swallowtail (Pathysa antiphates).
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Tailed Jay (Graphium agamemnon) -- These were the least common of the Graphium swallowtails.
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Five-bar Swallowtail (Pathysa antiphates) -- I only saw one of these lovely swallowtails. It was cooperative and it returned over and over to lick the damp sand.
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Green Dragontail (Lamproptera meges) -- What a bizarre swallowtail! It was shaped much like some of the metal marks and that was what I thought that it must be until I looked it up in my references.
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Great pics Moloch :) I also love the 40D+100mm macro combination. I use a 24-105mm for my walkaround, but usually also tote the 100-400mm for the birds. Versatile, but heavy combination..... lol.

I'd be interested in seeing some of the exif data if you have it readily available?
 
far out they are amazing mate !!! stunning photography, always a pleasure looking through your photos, never want them to end :D
i absoloutely love the mantids ( espicially that leaf one ! ) and that pic of the butterflies on your shoes
 
...
Bushman, I use a Canon 40D body.
...
Thanks for answering my camera spec questions.
I know that competency and artistry in using the gear is more critical but knowing what equipment you used to get such great results will give me a fighting chance!
Love your work!
 
Thanks, all.

Chocolate Pansy (Junonia iphita) – These butterflies were common in open areas around the Mutiara Resort.
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Common Lascar (Pantoporia hordonia) – a few seen around the Mutiara Resort and at light gaps in the forest.
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There are a number of very similar “aeroplanes” that overlap in distribution. As you can see, they look almost identical. The main differences have to do with the spots and mid-stripe. I saw these butterflies often and probably encountered additional species. I only recognized the differences when I examined the photos on the computer.


Common Sergeant (Athyma perius)
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Lance Sergeant (Athyma pravara)
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Colour Sergeant (Athyma nefte)
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Jacintha Eggfly (Hypolimnas bolina) -- I saw males along the forest edge on a couple of occasions.
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Wavy Maplet (Chersonesia rahria) – These small butterflies were common in the open areas near Mutiara Resort and at light gaps in the forest.
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Malay Viscount (Tanaecia pelea) – I saw these occasionally within the forest. They often landed on leaves that were sunlit or on the bark of trees. They remind me a little of the (Hamadryas) from the neotropcis.
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Straight-line Mapwing (Cyrestis nivea) – I rarely saw these butterflies except along the Tahan River. They dropped to the sandbars around noon each day.
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Little Map (Cyrestis themire) – This species was usually hard to photograph since it would normally land on the undersurface of leaves.
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Black-tipped Archduke (Lexias dirtea) – I really enjoyed these beautiful butterflies. They seemed to be confined to the forest interior. I usually saw them on the ground or perched on the upper surface of leaves within a meter or two of the ground.
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Archduke (Lexias pardalis) – I only saw these on a few occasions. They were invariably sighted on the forest floor.
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Yellow Archduke (Lexias canescens) – Very similar to the preceding species. This one lacks the green pattern on the lower wings.
butterfly64aLexiascanescensYellowAr.jpg



Horsefield’s Baron (Tanaecia iapis) – Isn’t the first one below stunning? It was an absolutely gorgeous individual that must have just emerged since its wings were in perfect condition. The second photo was more typical of the butterflies that I encountered. This species would either land on trunks or on the upper surface of leaves. It invariably held its wings open when resting.
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Commander (Moduza procris) – I only saw these along the Tahan River when they joined the mixed-species flocks to sip moisture and dissolved salts.
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Tawny Rajah (Charaxes bernardus) – this was a big, fast flying butterfly. I saw it occasionally in the forest where it was hard to photograph. It was much more cooperative when it joined the mixed-species flocks along the Tahan River.
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Cruiser (Vindula dejone) – These were big and beautiful butterflies. They were common at noon on sandbars along the Tahan River.
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Banded Yeoman (Cirrochroa orissa) – I only saw a few of these. The first one below was licking my sweaty camera bag.
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Malay Yeoman (Cirrochroa malaya) – I only saw this species once. It landed on a wet camera bag.
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Rustic (Cupha erymanthis) – I initially thought that this and (C. orrisa) were the same species. They were quite similar and found in the same habitats.
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Jewelled Nawab (Polyura delphis) – I was only able to photograph this tattered individual. I did see a couple of others racing by. This was a big butterfly that was a powerful flier.
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Plain Nawab (Polyura hebe) – I saw a few along the Tahan River and sometimes at flowers near the Mutiara Resort. It was another fast flying species.
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Royal Assyrian (Terinos terpander) -- these were gorgeous butterflies but they tended to remain in shaddy areas within the forest where they just looked to be darkly coloured. If they landed in light gaps, the beautiful colours could be seen.
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Vagrant (Vagrans egista) -- I only saw this species on a few occasions. These photos were taken on a rocky outcrop at the summit of Bukit Teresik.
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Malaysian Leaf Butterfly (Kallima limborgii) -- What an incredibly cryptic butterfly! It was huge and about the size of an Owl Butterfly in the neotropics. When it settled on leaf litter, it was nearly invisible. I only saw these big butterflies on two occasions. They seemed to be the most active at dawn and dusk, just like Owl Butterflies.
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butterfly73bKallimalimborgii.jpg




Grey Pansy (Junonia atlites) -- this was a species of open areas. It had a nice pattern on the upper wings but would not cooperate for photos. I spent most of my time inside the forest so only saw Grey Pansies on a couple of occasions.
butterfly81Junoniaatlites.jpg




Purple Duke (Eulaceura osteria) -- I only saw this species twice. On both occasions, it was perched like this a few meters above the ground. I never saw the upper surface of the wings. On the web, it looks like it would be quite similar to the Commander.
butterfly35cModuzaprocrisCommander.jpg




Mystery 1 -- I saw this butterfly once when I was climbing Bukit Teresik. It has distinctive shape and the upper surface was a lovely blue in flight. I cannot find it on any of the Asian butterfly websites. Seems strange since it was so distinctive.
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Malay Lacewing (Cethosia hypsea) -- I only saw this pretty butterfly once. Its outer wings were more attractive than its inner wings.
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Black-veined Tiger (Danaus melanippus) -- I only saw this in disturbed areas near the Kuala Tembeling Jetty.
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Magpie Crow (Euploea radamanthus) -- many of the crows had beautiful patches of purple on their inner wings.
butterfly41aEuploearadamanthusMagpi.jpg

butterfly41bEuploearadamanthusMagpi.jpg
 
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