New.. and need some help/advice =]

[clare]

Hi all. Ive been reading the threads on here for a while now but this is my first post.

Im new to the snake world and need some advice. I have spent quite a lot of time with my mum’s partner’s snakes as well as snake-sitting a 2.5 year old stimson with my partner. I have now fallen in love and im looking at purchasing a Stimson Hatchie in the next few weeks. I have spoken to the people I know who have snakes, but I would like other opinions as well =]

I am familiar with shedding, feeding, cleaning the enclosure, and generally looking after Stimson’s who are fully grown. But I need some advice on looking after a hatchie – is there much difference between looking after a hatchie and an adult?

I have read on here that its better to keep them in a click-clack for the first few months rather than a large cage to reduce stress. Im looking at getting a Reptile one Saburra 60 Wooden Vivarium, is this too big for a hatching?

If I do keep it in the click-clack to start off with, how do I keep the click-clack warm enough? Is a heater mat enough or do I need anything else as well? How long should I keep them in the click-clack? Apart from the obvious (water bowl, heater mat, floor covering, hide) do I need anything else in there or is it best to leave other items (such as plants and logs) until they go in the big enclosure?

I read on here about people using toilet rolls and small boxes as hides. Is this necessary if I have one of the ceramic hide rocks or is the snake less likely to become stressed if it has a few different hides?

Also, Ive been to a few pet shops and they’re charging $399-$499 for stimson’s at the moment. To me, this is excessive when I know some breeders sell them for $200-$250ish.

Any other information on hatchies would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks =]

 

[Bushman]

Welcome the forums and an addictive new hobby.
A Stimson's Python is a good choice for a first snake and you've come to the right place for good advice. I recommend that you do plenty of reading of good books as well.

 

[bigjoediver]

Welcome, if you go to the section called noteworthy threads there is a good guide to building and setting up a click clack with all the info you need.

Joe

 

[OldestMagician]

I'm new to snake keeping but what I've done and works well (if you think your snake wants to climb) is drill a hole each side of the click clack and slide a length of dowel rod through. My bredli hatchling loves it and spends a lot of time on it.

 

[Bluetongue1]

There is some excellent information already available on this site. I will refer you to a couple of highly relevant threads but before I do that, let’s try and answer a few of your questions first...

Young snakes are on the menu for lots of different animals. So they spend the first year or two of their existence in nature trying to acquire a feed without them selves being eaten. They achieve this by staying hidden as much as possible and never venturing too far from cover in their quest for food. A large spacious enclosure is exactly what they do NOT want while little. Even small enclosures with clear plastic or glass sides that afford a clear view of the surroundings, are virtually the equivalent to a large spacious enclosure. The snake has an extensive view and is not going to be happy. Having to move through open areas to drink or search for food will be a last resort and the snake will be stressed while doing so. After a couple of years in nature, or a year in captivity, your snake should have attained sufficient size to make it much less of a target for other animals to eat and its behaviour will change accordingly. Snakes seem to become aware of the fact they too big for many of their previous predators and are no longer stressed by traversing open areas.

Even in a click-clack you need to include a couple of things. Snakes do not have the same gut musculature that we humans have that allow us to move food along the alimentary canal without exercise or movement. Therefore a small elevated forked branch will allow the snake to climb over it and move it gut contents along. Snakes also require an abrasive surface to rub their mouth along when ready to shed. This is normally provided by adding a coarse surfaced rock or a water bowl that has a rough texture on the outside. They need to break the old outer layer of their scales free around the mouth so that it can then turn inside out and slough backwards. The forked branch will also help a lot in removing a slough.

Most care sheets state that you need to provide a hide. I personally believe that for many snakes, especially when young, that you should provide three hides. One at the hot end, one at the cool end and one at the snake’s preferred body temperature in the middle. While many keepers will tell you this is simply not necessary I consider it makes life easier on the snake. If it reduces the stress on your snake it should be done.

With respect to hides, they should be tight fitting. When you examine the retreats that snakes use in nature, there is very little room for movement in most of them. There are three main reasons for this. Firstly, if there is limited access then it provides some measure of protection against would be predators. Secondly, a restricted volume assists in retaining body heat gained elsewhere, often requiring somewhat risky exposure by sunbaking – so it pays to make the best of what has been gained. Lastly, having a small volume of air surrounding them and a restricted connection to the outside, allows the humidity within a refuge to build up. Every exhaled breathe is 100% humid. If the inhaled air is significantly less than this then the snake will be losing moisture. In a semi-arid or arid environment, this can be critical. Bottom line, snakes are really comfortable in really tight retreats/hides. Cardboard rolls or boxes are an inexpensive way to meet the needs described above. Given the zero cost outlay, they are at least worth trying.

With respect to heating, heat cord or a quality heat mats (the flat black variety) of an appropriate wattage, is all that is required, generally positioned under end third of the clickclack.

Those couple of threads I mentioned...
http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/noteworthy-threads-5397/guide-build-click-clack-dial-93266/
http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/australian-snakes-37/antaresia-freaks-96327/?highlight=freaks

Blue

 

[clare]

Wow. I expected a bit of information but this is amazing, it answered all my questions and more, thanks so much! The thread about setting up a click clack was perfect. Blue, the amount of time you put into writing all that to answer my questions is really appreciated. I just have one more question though, how do I know when the snake is ready to be put in a large vivarium? Is it when they reach a certain size or age, or just when the snake has grown and I think its a bit too big for the click clack? I dont want to put it in a vivarium too early and stress it unnecessarily.

 

[12-08-67]

they are great escape artists when first upgraded to their tanks and will scare the crap out of you several times by finding every imaginable and silly spot to explore/hide

 

[Bluetongue1]

You have it. It does vary from snake to snake and some are ready earlier than others to take on the upgrade but a rough rule of thumb is12 to 15 months of age. Apart from size, you should find the behaviour of your snake changing as it spends more time out of the hides and exploring its surrounds. If you upsize too early the snake will let you know by hiding instead of exploring and becoming suddenly defensive and snappy when you go to access it. If this happens, simply pop it straight back in its click-clack for another month or so and then try again. A day in familiar surrounds is all it will take to return it to normal behaviours.

The comment about being Houdini-like is very true. In particular, if you have sliding glass doors on the larger enclosure, then I would suggest a strip of the ‘carpet like’ weather seal between the doors where they overlap when shut. Many a young Stimmie has managed to squeeze through a gap its owner did not think it was capable of.

Clare,
It is apparent that you have already put in a good deal of time and thought on research, as your questions were very clear and very specific. It is a pleasure to be able to provide some small measure of help to one so obviously motivated as yourself. The bottom line is that we would wish to see you enjoying your critter, not worrying about it.

Blue

 

[clare]

Thanks so much for the help! Im feeling more confident now those few questions have been cleared up!