My 10 month old Jungle has not eaten since April. His last feed consisted of 1 fuzzy mouse. I had thought that perhaps he wasn't eating because I was trying to give him baby rats, however when I tried again with the mice, pinkies and fuzzies. (a couple of times) .. He didn't want a bar of it. He is extremely placid.. has never bitten or snapped at anyone and rarely takes his food from your hand.In the last few weeks he has become quite weak and its getting to a worrying point. Any ideas or recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Baby Jungle carpet feeding trouble
- Thread starter Joel_vell
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luvezit
Active Member
If you are worried take him to a vet. We can't tell how bad he is just from a description.
For now all that you can really do. Is maintain stable accurate temperatures and persist weekly with a variety of food types. I would avoid handling or placing any undue stress on the animal only disturb it for feeding, cleaning and watering.
There are a few questions you could answer to help us help you.
How long have you had the jungle?
What are the temperatures maintained?
Was it feeding well before you got it? If so what was it feeding on?
If you are concerned with the health of your snake your first point of call should be to the breeder you purchased it from (if reliable) or take it down to a reptile vet. If you keep the breeder in the loop with your new jungle you will have more chance of them helping you out if something goes pear shaped.
Hope this helps.
There are a few questions you could answer to help us help you.
How long have you had the jungle?
What are the temperatures maintained?
Was it feeding well before you got it? If so what was it feeding on?
If you are concerned with the health of your snake your first point of call should be to the breeder you purchased it from (if reliable) or take it down to a reptile vet. If you keep the breeder in the loop with your new jungle you will have more chance of them helping you out if something goes pear shaped.
Hope this helps.
Hey Ewan,
Thanks for your reply, your help is appreciated
We've had him since Feb09 he was hatched in Nov 08 he was the smaller of his siblings and the breeder did tell us he was a late starter.
We had been keeping him at 29 degrees celcius but i recently( this week) dropped it down to 27 when i noticed him spending alot of time in his water dish.
The breeder is a reliable bloke and i will call him at a decent hour today. he was feeding on fuzzy mice when we got him we were given a bag by the breeder. We succesfully fed him 2 fuzzy mice, one from our hand and the other we had to leave for him and it was gone in the morning. There is chance he also ate a live skink i put in there but it may have escaped.
We have definitely considered the vet and it is our next port of call.
Thanks for your reply, your help is appreciated
We've had him since Feb09 he was hatched in Nov 08 he was the smaller of his siblings and the breeder did tell us he was a late starter.
We had been keeping him at 29 degrees celcius but i recently( this week) dropped it down to 27 when i noticed him spending alot of time in his water dish.
The breeder is a reliable bloke and i will call him at a decent hour today. he was feeding on fuzzy mice when we got him we were given a bag by the breeder. We succesfully fed him 2 fuzzy mice, one from our hand and the other we had to leave for him and it was gone in the morning. There is chance he also ate a live skink i put in there but it may have escaped.
We have definitely considered the vet and it is our next port of call.
No problems. You're very welcome.
Firstly. No more skinks. It is very important to never feed them other reptiles. It is not necessary.
Next you need to bump up those temps. You need a warm spot of 32degrees C and a cool end of 28degrees C or lower. It is very important that there is an appropriate thermal gradient so the little jungle can regulate its own body temperature to raise its own immune system and so it can continue to feed and digest. If the temps aren't available to digest it simply wont eat.
If you need some help bumping up the temps simply ask and you will find much advice.
How big is this little guy? do you have a good photo you can post up?
Firstly. No more skinks. It is very important to never feed them other reptiles. It is not necessary.
Next you need to bump up those temps. You need a warm spot of 32degrees C and a cool end of 28degrees C or lower. It is very important that there is an appropriate thermal gradient so the little jungle can regulate its own body temperature to raise its own immune system and so it can continue to feed and digest. If the temps aren't available to digest it simply wont eat.
If you need some help bumping up the temps simply ask and you will find much advice.
How big is this little guy? do you have a good photo you can post up?
tenacres1100
Very Well-Known Member
you may find your problems are temp related, I'd UP the temp to 31-33c, and then try feeding it after a few days at that temp, try not to handle it anymore until it's feeding,
I'd also go back to fuzzy mice untill it has a good eating habit
I'd also go back to fuzzy mice untill it has a good eating habit
IMO if you go to the vet it will be a good thing for your piece of mind. See if it is still healthy enough to go on. The vet will also talk to you about temps as will the breeder as generally this is the cause (along with stress) of snakes going off their food.
He is about 56 cms as of a few weeks ago, there is a less recent pic taken in april... we don't have a good camera.
I just raised the thermostat to 32 degrees, it should now maintain a temp in the 31-33range,and will refrain from handling and or disturbing him unless feeding we are hoping this may stimulate a response by Monday, if not next stop the herp Vet.
Thanks for your help Ewan and TenAcres, we have to leave the comp atm but more replies and responses are appreciated, fingers crossed this might just work.
I just raised the thermostat to 32 degrees, it should now maintain a temp in the 31-33range,and will refrain from handling and or disturbing him unless feeding we are hoping this may stimulate a response by Monday, if not next stop the herp Vet.
Thanks for your help Ewan and TenAcres, we have to leave the comp atm but more replies and responses are appreciated, fingers crossed this might just work.
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GSXR_Boy
Very Well-Known Member
Are you going off the numbers on the thermostat or do you have a thermometer to read the temps? Forget the numbers on the thermostat even exist as it is often inaccurate.
One last thing from me for now. If aren't using a good thermometer to monitor the temps go out and get one today. The dual probe digital thermometers work well but the infrared are the best.
Also you could describe the enclosure (size and design) so we can ensure it has an environment where it will feel safe.
Regards.
Ewan.
Also you could describe the enclosure (size and design) so we can ensure it has an environment where it will feel safe.
Regards.
Ewan.
JAS101
Very Well-Known Member
what state are u in?
maybe a member who is local to u could take a look or even come and see your setup.
i had exactly the same problem with my jungle until a month or two ago.
he would always be in the cold end even though i had turned the thermostat right down and temps in the hot end were down to 26degrees, he would still be active at night, but always rest in the cold end and never take any food i offered.
Just to try something different since he had not eaten for weeks. I put the hide he was always in down the hot end and moved his favorite perch and turned temps right up so the hot end was 31degrees. That night he took a weaner mouse right away.
I came to the conclusion that the snake just liked that end of the tank more for some reason and was not getting enough heat, much the same as i have my favorite spot on my couch....closest to the heater.
he would always be in the cold end even though i had turned the thermostat right down and temps in the hot end were down to 26degrees, he would still be active at night, but always rest in the cold end and never take any food i offered.
Just to try something different since he had not eaten for weeks. I put the hide he was always in down the hot end and moved his favorite perch and turned temps right up so the hot end was 31degrees. That night he took a weaner mouse right away.
I came to the conclusion that the snake just liked that end of the tank more for some reason and was not getting enough heat, much the same as i have my favorite spot on my couch....closest to the heater.
Cheyne_Jones
Well-Known Member
How often are you handling this snake? One of the most common causes of snakes going off their food for new keepers is over handling. I would do as suggested regarding temps and not handle this snake at all until it has had at least 3 feeds in a row.
Wild~Touch
Very Well-Known Member
i noticed him spending alot of time in his water dish.
Have you checked him for mites ???
Have you checked him for mites ???
Colin
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all good advice so far.
mites may be a problem but sometimes animals spend time in the water even when they dont have them.
as said I think temps are your problem and probably keeping him in an enclosure / tub far too big for his age and size. Its been said countless times in mant threads that small snakes do better in smaller enclosures / tubs.
Id put him in a 5 -10 litre tub (max) sitting a third to half on a heat mat hooking up to a thermostat that has the hot end 30-32 degrees. as said you need a thermometer to check these temps are accurate. the dials on thermostats are usually wrong. persoanally Id use no perch at all. just a upside down plant water dish with entrance hole in side as a hide in the HOT end. water dish at cool end, substrate paper towels and the tub air holes I put in the lid above the hot end as hot air rise and will maintain a good heat at the hot end but allow a gradient at the cold end. holes in the sides and not the lid can reduce the thermal gradient and distribute more heat right around the tub.
dont handle him and play with him.. he doesnt need it. just give him a few days at 30-32 and at night when its dark and hes cruising the tub.. offer him a fuzzy mouse thats been thawed in hot tap water and still warm (and wet) the wetness will hydrate him a bit too. I always feed all my animals like this (for years) and never had a problem. they feed better at nigt and when they're cruising and awake. if he takes the mouse dont disturb him and when he starts to eat and swallow the fuzzy.. toss another one in the hot tap water and get ready to feed a second one after hes downed the first. depending on the size of the snake and the food items.. maybe even a third one but not if he looks bloated. two should be fine.
sometimes even when given the best care and conditions.. some animals are fussy eaters and may only feed every 2-4 weeks instead of every 5-7 days etc.. so thats why I like to whack a decent feed into these ones. they eventually get feeding more regularly in time.. but some can test your patience.
if the above fails.. what i would do is feed a freshly killed or even live fuzzy (no flaming please) this is the last resort to get stubborn feeders feeding by themselves and usually always works.. i alway follow with a thawed one and from this point on prefer to use thawed,and never live , but sometimes its needed to switch stubborn feeders into feeding mode.
let us know how you go with it all mate and best of luck. cheers
mites may be a problem but sometimes animals spend time in the water even when they dont have them.
as said I think temps are your problem and probably keeping him in an enclosure / tub far too big for his age and size. Its been said countless times in mant threads that small snakes do better in smaller enclosures / tubs.
Id put him in a 5 -10 litre tub (max) sitting a third to half on a heat mat hooking up to a thermostat that has the hot end 30-32 degrees. as said you need a thermometer to check these temps are accurate. the dials on thermostats are usually wrong. persoanally Id use no perch at all. just a upside down plant water dish with entrance hole in side as a hide in the HOT end. water dish at cool end, substrate paper towels and the tub air holes I put in the lid above the hot end as hot air rise and will maintain a good heat at the hot end but allow a gradient at the cold end. holes in the sides and not the lid can reduce the thermal gradient and distribute more heat right around the tub.
dont handle him and play with him.. he doesnt need it. just give him a few days at 30-32 and at night when its dark and hes cruising the tub.. offer him a fuzzy mouse thats been thawed in hot tap water and still warm (and wet) the wetness will hydrate him a bit too. I always feed all my animals like this (for years) and never had a problem. they feed better at nigt and when they're cruising and awake. if he takes the mouse dont disturb him and when he starts to eat and swallow the fuzzy.. toss another one in the hot tap water and get ready to feed a second one after hes downed the first. depending on the size of the snake and the food items.. maybe even a third one but not if he looks bloated. two should be fine.
sometimes even when given the best care and conditions.. some animals are fussy eaters and may only feed every 2-4 weeks instead of every 5-7 days etc.. so thats why I like to whack a decent feed into these ones. they eventually get feeding more regularly in time.. but some can test your patience.
if the above fails.. what i would do is feed a freshly killed or even live fuzzy (no flaming please) this is the last resort to get stubborn feeders feeding by themselves and usually always works.. i alway follow with a thawed one and from this point on prefer to use thawed,and never live , but sometimes its needed to switch stubborn feeders into feeding mode.
let us know how you go with it all mate and best of luck. cheers
Many thanks for the great advice!
We live in QLD at mt nebo just near Brisbane.
His home is a 10 litre tub with the hide recently moved to the hot end.
I was aware of the water dish and mites parallel but his only done it for bout a day and a half and never before or since.
Invested in a 2 probe thermometer that even covers humidity, no longer relying on the thermostat reading.
Will avoid handling him excessively
Will try a pinky and or a fuzzy mouse tonight.
Booked into Brighton vet tomoro morning for peace of mind (George is a much beloved little friend among our household and its guests....possibly the problem)Gonna bring the whole set up for advice and evaluation.
This is a very Efficient and knowledgeable community.
Thanks to all who posted.
Will post updates as they occur and Pictures when we have them!
We live in QLD at mt nebo just near Brisbane.
His home is a 10 litre tub with the hide recently moved to the hot end.
I was aware of the water dish and mites parallel but his only done it for bout a day and a half and never before or since.
Invested in a 2 probe thermometer that even covers humidity, no longer relying on the thermostat reading.
Will avoid handling him excessively
Will try a pinky and or a fuzzy mouse tonight.
Booked into Brighton vet tomoro morning for peace of mind (George is a much beloved little friend among our household and its guests....possibly the problem)Gonna bring the whole set up for advice and evaluation.
This is a very Efficient and knowledgeable community.
Thanks to all who posted.
Will post updates as they occur and Pictures when we have them!
Hey dude any info on little George? Just read through this whole thread was a bit like my jungle i was going by the thermostat numbers to find out that when i got a thermometer the heat was waaay to hot turned it down to 31 - 32 never missed a feed since hope same occured for your little guy
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