breeding central netted dragons

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cosmotiger1

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hi guys,

im fairly new to this so i dont know much.

i really want to buy some central netted dragons to breed.
i seen some realy red coloured ones today in a pet shop (unfortunately about 5 years old)

my main question is to breed stock with the nice red colour am i better to look for red breeding stock, or is colouration luck of the draw?

and also how old are they before they breed?

cheers guys
 
i strongly suggest you learn more about the species and reptiles in general and how to keep them before even attempting to breed something
 
so you have never bread for the joy of breeding.

mate ive bred some of the rarest fish in australia for about 10 years, and now i would like to move to a different animal.
for the joy of keeping and breeding.

thanks
 
so you have never bread for the joy of breeding.

mate ive bred some of the rarest fish in australia for about 10 years, and now i would like to move to a different animal.
for the joy of keeping and breeding.

thanks
basically you should start by keeping bearded dragons etc then when you feel your ready aquire some females and attempt to breed. and petshops are not the place to aquire reptiles a private breeder is better.
 
MATE, i dont want to seem rude or anything but im after information on these guys not advise on how i should go about doing everything.

if you dont have anything helpful to add.......
 
if your a first time herp keeper i too suggest going for a beardie or a netted but get experience with keeping before you try and breed. Doesnt matter how many of the rarest aussie fish you have bred keeping and breeding herps is totally different
 
Go for it I say, though preferably not with 5 year old netted's as they arn't long lived. Breeding is a fast learning curve and I prefer that way myself. As for the red, just make sure they are not kept on red desert sand, as that will stain them red, and yes the vast percentage of the offspings colouration will come from their linage.
 
Netteds are fairly simple undemanding lizards suitable for the beginner. You can keep them similar as for advanced hatchling beardies. Sand for substrate, hides made from terra cotta plant pot suacers with a section broken off. Heat cord for heat and a light bulb for light. They dont seem to need UVB, although I do provide this for the hatchlings. Temps up to around 34C. They dont like it too hot. Wont affect them too much it's just they hide. During hot weather they become active at night. As for breeding well that just kind of happens when the mood is right.
Bob
 
cheers guys,
the ones i seen today were on red sand so.....

the reason i mentioned about the breeding fish is that breeding fish (especially some of the rarer ones) is all about giving them the exact environment they would live in naturaly.

same goes with herps, i know its not a matter of getting a heat lamp and presto!!

anyone know how old they are before sexual maturity

thanks
 
thanks bob.

so when the mood is right hey
some candles, barry white, bottle of red????? lol
 
Central Netted Dragon Info

Hi guys,

I suggest checking out my website www.centralnetteddragon.com

One thing I must emphasize is the importance of UVB - I cannot stress that enough! The quality of light provided is also important to get the most natural behaviors and health out of your dragon. That means the widest spectrum possible - I recommend combining a UVB light source (such as a MegaRay or Reptisun 10.0) and a halogen.

Look out for my MegaRay Mercury Vapour lamp review in the upcoming issue of Reptiles Magazine - an amazing product with proven results!

I cannot tell you how many Netteds I've had to care for suffering Metabolic Bone Disease because no UVB was provided. Give your dragon all the calcium you want but it won't absorb it without Vitamin D3 which is synthesized in the skin from exposure to UVB. Without Vit D3 the bloodstream will leach calcium out of the bones (even of previous healthy dragons) to fulfill it's other calcium needs.

Breeding advice as follows -

• Incubator should be set up consistently at 30˚C + 100% humidity (make sure it's set up well before eggs arrive and check that temps don't fluctuate) Don't let temp go below 26˚ or above 32˚ but try to avoid fluctuations by using a thermostat.

• Slightly damp vermiculite mix in small container, press in dents with finger for eggs to sit in

• Place vermiculite container within enclosure (water should be kept in incubator to keep humidity at 100% throughout incubation)

• Collect eggs asap after deposition without turning (females lay 2-6 eggs per clutch)

• Fertile eggs will have a lightly coloured germal disc at the top for a while after deposition - usually yellow, orange or pink

• Incubation time usually 8-11 weeks

I have had a 100% hatch rate of fertile eggs with this technique using a Hovabator which has small holes in the lid for constant gas exchange without reducing humidity, otherwise just lift the lid every now and then. Prior to the Hovabator I used a styrene cooler box with clear acrylic lid cut to size also with a 100% hatch rate of fertile eggs.
 
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