Heat rises, temp gradient - bottom to top?

Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum

Help Support Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Status
Not open for further replies.

MissFord

Not so new Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2011
Messages
32
Reaction score
0
Location
Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia
Having a good one?;)
Heat rises so would it be ok if I had cooler temps down below with a rock hide on the ground an warmer at the top of the enclosure where there will be a hidden hide As well (not too warm of corse, will be using probe and thermostat). It's for a jungle python, I will have heaps of logs for climbing. I think I've come up with a good way to have a shelf where theres a hidden warmish hide and the heat/basking lamp and fluros out of sight but still getting good lighting and heat?? I hope I made sense, any advice on this topic would b great!:) I haven't started enclosure yet but this awesome TV cabinet is waiting, and once I have all my supplies and plans RIGHT I'll smash it! I'm sure you have heard of "THE 6 P's!!!" lol
 
Heat gradient from top to bottom is the sensible way to set up vertical enclosures, as long as they have somewhere warm to go when they're cold and somewhere cool when they're to hot then they're happy. Don't forget to post the pics and I hope you PPPPPP provides a perfect python playroom :)
 
:)lol Thanks jax, well aparently Prior Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance so I want to get it right before I start (my first enclosure build, so exciting haha) but will def take pics once I start... I worked on "The Pacific" as a paint laborer/brush hand and picked up heaps of tricks so I'm most looking foward to doing the backwall!
 
If your basking spot is highly elevated and that is your sole source of heat, bear in mind that the heat will only “sink” to whatever level the highest vent is located. Below that the viv will be whatever the ambient temperature of the room is. Basically you would have two temperature layers with a potentially large difference between them. If you have a vent at the top of the viv, there will be minimal heat build up and temperatures will drop off to whatever the ambient air temperature is fairly quickly as you move away from the basking spot.

A note on vents: The size of a vent and the size and number of holes in it determine the rate at which air can move through it. (Stating the obvious, I realise, but it should be born in mind).

A gradual change or gradient in temperature is really what you want. It’s not hard to achieve, despite what some people seem to think. I would suggest floor heating inside the viv on the same side as the basking spot. This is easily, effectively and efficiently achieved with heat cord. There are some excellent threads on this topic on the forum or, alternatively, I am happy to PM you a “How to make your own” that clearly explains a simple and very effective method. Have two hides set up on the floor in addition to your elevated “hidden” hide. Set your thermostat to the preferred body temp (PBT) for jungles and have the probe in the MIDDLE of the viv on the FLOOR / SUBSTRATE. [Important Note: Check with a thermometer that the thermostat setting is giving you the correct temperature because often their dials can be several degrees out.] Voila! One side of the viv will be above and the other side below PBT and the snake will do the rest, moving between warmer and cooler as required.

Carpets usually feel secure where they can climb to an elevated spot and coil up in fork or the like. If you set up your branches so that you have a spot under the basking lamp and another one two at different distances from it, you may find that most of the time it won’t use the hides. The advantage being that way you get to see more of it.

Don’t use hollow logs. While the snakes love them, you should be able to access your snake at any time and when stuck in a hollow they can be all but impossible to remove. If the animal is sick and hides in there as a retreat, you may not release until it is too late. Alternatively, cut your hollow log in half. A couple of small hinges and simple latch OR a couple of tightened wire loops at each end. Budgie breeding boxes make great practical ‘aerial’ hides even if not terribly naturalistic.

Oh yeah. A lot of reptiles will often bask under temperatures well above their preferred body temperature. So you can afford to crank up the basking spot if necessary.

I hope this is of some help. Your excitement at being able to marry creativity with your newly acquired manual skills comes through loud and clear. It is exciting creating an environment for your charges. Good luck with it and don’t hesitate to ask about anything your not 100% sure on. Someone will be happy to answer.

Blue
 
:)lol Thanks jax, well aparently Prior Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance so I want to get it right before I start (my first enclosure build, so exciting haha) but will def take pics once I start... I worked on "The Pacific" as a paint laborer/brush hand and picked up heaps of tricks so I'm most looking foward to doing the backwall!

If you've had experience with the painting then I expect great results, and I hope you've joined the DIY group so you can post pics and share your knowledge. So make sure you give us a step by step and loads of pics. And most importantly HAVE FUN
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top