How am i suppose to get 24-26c at the cool end of my enclosure when it's 29c outside?

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Jacob3

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Just setting up an enclosure for a spotted python i will be getting once i get everything set up.

I'm using a 7Letre click clack, with a heat mat, thermostat, one thermometer at each end

The hot end is 30.1c which is okay, but the cool end which should be 24-26c is 29.8....... i've also got a thermo next to the enclosure and it's reading 29.7c

So how am i suppose to get the cool end to 25c when it's 29 outside?


Thanks alot guys
 
Put in cooler area of house and place the heat mat under ONLY 1/3 of the tub and your hot end needs to be at floor temp 32/33
 
Exactly my problem. Living in Cairns the temp tends to stay around 29 degrees inside. If you have tiles that helps. I have all my enclosures low to the ground on tiles. When it is quite hot I put cool water in the water bowl or bury a freezer block wrapped in a teatowel in the substrate.

I have timer switches that turn off the heat during the hottest part of the day. I also have a divider in the enclosure that separates the hot and cool end with a 100mm gap from my python to fit through. I have found this is easier to heat and also keeps the cool side from getting too warm.

When I'm home I use the a/c during the hottest part of the day anyway.
 
Living in Townsville, I find I only need to put the heat on my snakes during the hot months when I feed them. I used to fret about the temps, but when the ambient temp is sitting around 30 odd degrees all day long I ensure they've got a large water bowl to cool down in if they need to and I usually just put the heat cords/mats on at night if I've fed them that day because as I've said, the average temps are 30+ anyway during the day. I've had no dramas and my critters are still thriving:)
 
Moving to a cooler part of the house won't work because there no where in the house thats 24-26 on a hot summers day..

I also don't understand how there's suppose to be a 6-8 difference in temperature from one end of the enclosure to the other of a click clack that's only 30-35cm long... the thermometers are only 23cm apart.... that's almost impossible

How does everone else do it? this is turning out to be alot harder than i thought..
 
Get your click clack to a room that's below the ambient temperature outside and then heat the warm end of the click clack. If the room is too hot, try sitting the click clack on a naturally cool surface such as bathroom tiles or marble and then heat from there.

Failing that, try aircon or a fan to keep airflow moving and cool along with a spray of water over the outside of the cool end of the click clack
 
Letting us know your location (town or area) would help, as climate has a huge effect on heating reptile enclosures. The preferred body temperature for a hatchling and young juvenile is 30[SUP]o[/SUP]C. So you want the temperature inside the hide in the middle of the click-clack, to be 30[SUP]o[/SUP]C. The warm end plus 1 or 2 degrees and the cool end minus 2 or 3 degrees. In other words, a thermal gradient of at least 28[SUP]o[/SUP]C to 31[SUP]o[/SUP]C.

Different rooms in a house get to different temperatures when doors are shut and air cannot circulate from one to another. Ambient air temperature within a room also varies with height and proximity to thin walls or windows exposed to direct sun. Hot air rises and so the higher up you go, the warmer the air will be. This effect is increased markedly in rooms without insulation in the roof space above the ceiling, due to heat from the sun coming through the roof. If the roof space is pretty much sealed (i.e. no exhaust vents), the heat build up can be huge and the amount entering rooms through the ceiling goes up accordingly. Concrete and tiles (on concrete) conduct heat into the ground, especially at night, and can be significantly cooler than say table level. These materials also require a lot of heat energy to raise their temperature, which means they are slow to heat up.

Hence the suggestions for placement “down low” or on “concrete” or “tiles”.

The lowest temperature you can in an enclosure is equal to the temperature of the air entering the enclosure.
To achieve a cooler temperature requires some form of cooling. Some methods have already been given.

When water evaporates, it absorbs heat to do, so it has a cooling effect. The rate of evaporation, and therefore cooling, depends on: the surface area to evaporate from; the air movement over the evaporation surface; and the relative humidity. Moisture from the air condenses when it comes in contact with a “body of water”. So in very humid conditions, the effects of evaporative cooling are cancelled out and it is not very effective.

If you live in an environment that is drier rather than humid, the following evaporative cooling methods can be very effective... A water bowl with a quite a large surface area. A piece of hessian draped over the ‘cool end’ and air vents, with the bottom end of the hessian in a container of water (hessian soaks up water by capillary action). Directing a gentle fan on the hessian will further increase its effectiveness. Sheets of sopping newspaper placed on the floor surrounding the enclosure, several metres wide.

If you live in a highly humid environment then the following can help.... Rather than ice packs, fill 2L soft drink bottles with water and freeze. Wrap them in several sheets of news paper, held by a rubber band or two, so they do not melt too quickly, and stand outside of enclosure along the cool end. Invest in a small portable air con.

Blue
 
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