Lifeless and not eating bearded dragon
- Thread starter brucebeardeddrag
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What is the basking light used for?? Hmmmmmm?????
OK, beardies like it light n bright, a ceramic heat emitter doesn't give off any light, just heat - pet stores luv em, they cost more, less effective for beardies but sure they have their role in some reptiles' life (???). Also, they don't give the ultimate heat required for a beardie, as u can see by only getting temps in the 30's not 40's. With the uv lights, u also need the light bright light to offset the rays given off by the uv to avoid any eye problems (especially)
Your beardie has been "existing" for the past 2 yrs - they're very resilient with any illnesses - doesn't usually show up until life threatening.
So, heat (40-44C, white bright to imitate sunlight) is THE most important factor in beardies being able to digest their food properly. The uvb then comes in with them then being able to absorb the calcium & nutrients from the food.
If u research a little bit into it, preferably referring to books rather than internet options, it's pretty self-explanatory. Common mistake made by many
!
As said, any vet can check for parasites so really good option to get done as well.
Also, it'd be interesting to hear the size & weight of your beardie.
Hope he does well though!!!!! With the basics of heat n uvb sorted, he should pep up in no time.
With food at this stage, just offer the norm - can take a few days for the correct heat/uv to kick in & stimulate normal eating habits.
Forget the thermostat atm, most only go to 30C or so - experiment with the digital & work it out from there (not advice most would agree with)
OK, beardies like it light n bright, a ceramic heat emitter doesn't give off any light, just heat - pet stores luv em, they cost more, less effective for beardies but sure they have their role in some reptiles' life (???). Also, they don't give the ultimate heat required for a beardie, as u can see by only getting temps in the 30's not 40's. With the uv lights, u also need the light bright light to offset the rays given off by the uv to avoid any eye problems (especially)
Your beardie has been "existing" for the past 2 yrs - they're very resilient with any illnesses - doesn't usually show up until life threatening.
So, heat (40-44C, white bright to imitate sunlight) is THE most important factor in beardies being able to digest their food properly. The uvb then comes in with them then being able to absorb the calcium & nutrients from the food.
If u research a little bit into it, preferably referring to books rather than internet options, it's pretty self-explanatory. Common mistake made by many
!As said, any vet can check for parasites so really good option to get done as well.
Also, it'd be interesting to hear the size & weight of your beardie.
Hope he does well though!!!!! With the basics of heat n uvb sorted, he should pep up in no time.
With food at this stage, just offer the norm - can take a few days for the correct heat/uv to kick in & stimulate normal eating habits.
Forget the thermostat atm, most only go to 30C or so - experiment with the digital & work it out from there (not advice most would agree with)
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