Smooth Knobtail Gecko Information Thread.

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Damiieen

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The scientific name for the Smooth Knobtail Gecko is Nephrurus levis, and are members of the Gekkonidae-- or Gecko family. Smooth Knobtail Geckos are native Central
and Western Australia. They are terrestrial geckos, or ground dwelling, from varied areas from dry woodlands to arid scrubland consisting of hard-pack sandy soil
strewn with rocks. They live in burrowed shelters they dig in the sand, where they will bury and seal themselves in. Smooth Knobtail Geckos are mainly "nocturnal"
which means they hunt for food at night, and are generally less active during the day.

Description:
Smooth Knobtail are medium-sized lizards with dark to light brown, or hues of orange and red pigment with aberrant patterns of white to yellow raised spots.
The tail is thick and broad with a round ‘knob’ on the tip. The average size of a full-grown adult is up to 3-4” snout to tail tip, with females larger than the
males. Adult females weigh around 25-28 grams, and males at around 20 grams. They have large, cartoon-character heads and eyes, and a ‘bulldog’ appearance of their
bodies.

Housing:
As a general rule, allow about 24 square inches of surface area per adult Smooth Knobtail Gecko. These geckos like to hide in low ceiling cave-like dwellings where
they will dig in the substrate and completely seal the opening. Smooth Knobtail Geckos thrive best when housed individually, and males should not come in contact
with each other or they may fight and become injured. Do NOT house adult Smooth Knobtail Geckos with babies or any other reptile species.

Heating:
All reptiles are cold-blooded and rely on the temperature of their surrounding environment to keep warm or cool. Use an under tank heater (UTH) on one side only
of the Smooth Knobtail Gecko's enclosure, thus allowing them to move back and forth within the enclosure to adjust their own body temperature. This is known as
thermal regulation, and it is critical for their metabolism, digestion, and immune systems. The ideal temperature for Smooth Knobtail Geckos is around 88-90°F on
the floor surface of the warm side of their enclosure, and normal room temperature (around 70-74°) on the cool side. Using a UTH is recommended instead of overhead
heat sources since in their natural habitat they utilize the heat absorbed from the sun in the soil and rocks of to aid in their digestion.

Substrates:
Use a 1⁄2” layer of non-silica sand on the warm end, graduating to about 3-4” on the cool end. The cool end should be kept slightly damp by misting with water a few
times a week. Place the cave shelter somewhere in between the warm and cool sides. Smooth Knobtail geckos will burrow tunnels in the damp sand where they utilize the
condensation of moisture to keep hydrated.

Lighting:
Unlike most other reptiles that bask in the sun to keep warm and to assimilate Vitamin D from natural sunlight, Smooth Knobtail Geckos are mainly nocturnal so they
do not require special lighting. Keep in mind that additional overhead lighting will raise the temperature in the enclosure. Be aware that Smooth Knobtail Geckos'
eyes are very sensitive and their eyesight is poor in bright light. Never expose your gecko to direct sunlight.Handling:

Smooth Knobtail Geckos will only tolerate occasional handling, and are easily stressed. When you must handle your gecko, it is best to slowly offer your hand, kept
low with your palm up, before picking them up. Avoid reaching down from over their head to grab them because they may become startled thinking you are a predator
coming down to attack them. Always handle your Smooth Knobtail Gecko with care, and never grab it by the tail. Like all lizards, when they are attacked or threatened
they can "drop" their tails. When a lizard loses its tail, it becomes vulnerable to disease and infection until it grows a new one. Smooth Knobtail Geckos will
eventually grow new tails, but the regenerated ones are never quite as nice as the original.
Shedding:
Reptiles shed their skin on regular basis, and Smooth Knobtail should molt about every 2-4 weeks. These geckos usually eat their molted skin, so do not be alarmed
if you never see the skin. It is extremely important that ALL the skin comes off, especially from the eyes (eyecaps) and toes, as geckos can lose their digits to
infection if the skin does not completely shed. If shedding is a problem for your Smooth Knobtail Gecko, it may be necessary to keep the substrate around their
cave moist by misting it with water, or placing a damp paper towel inside. Keep in mind that Smooth Knobtail Geckos have very sensitive skin, and can develop
infections if the substrate is too wet.

This info was given to me by Kupper so go Rep him.
Feel free to add anything. :)
 
Dry woodland? Really?....that's interesting. All lizards lose their tails? I didn't know that. My impression was that they were strictly nocturnal, not mainly. Also, I wouldn't describe a burrow as a cave-like dwelling, it's just a stable tunnel dug into the side of a sand dune, reportedly at the base of a low-lying shrub or plant species.

I personally think this was written by a keeper based overseas, as a result of the use of farenheit temperature measurement.
 
Apart from those mistakes on info the caring methods seem pretty much spot on, and thats the most important thing.
 
Heat rocks arent very good they can burn the gecko. Plus, geckos burrow so the heat needs to be from under the tank, so they can be warm while underground.
 
Thanks for the help, I'm looking into getting some gecko's soon and was told that heat rocks could be used instead of heat mats as the are self regulated, so i wouldnt need to get a thermostat. But thought i'd ask around because from all i've read it seemed that a mat on the side of the tank is the best thing to do.
 
Nephrurus levis belong to the family Carphodactylidae. Not all lizards have the ability of autotomy in fact many geckos do not have 'true' autotomy. I am not sure if Nephrurus levis have 'true' autotomy but they can certainly lose their tails.
 
Thanks for the help, I'm looking into getting some gecko's soon and was told that heat rocks could be used instead of heat mats as the are self regulated, so i wouldnt need to get a thermostat. But thought i'd ask around because from all i've read it seemed that a mat on the side of the tank is the best thing to do.

Heatrocks are notorious for malfunctioning. You can pick up heat mats with built in thermostats for about $60
 
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