Stable Heat Source

[andynic07]

I think they produce all spectrums UV but not in large enough amounts. The cover filters out all UV light and some people were cutting this off to try take advantage of the UV but the primary function of the outer glass is to contain the explosion if the inner globe breaks.

 

[Senator358]

As you said they may produce a small amount of uvb but no where near enough for what you need. Cutting the globes seems nuts to me.

 

[andynic07]

Definitely not worth the risk for virtually no reward.

 

[Bluetongue1]

What is immediately evident to me is that you have three distinct groups based on their requirements... (i) Terrestrial pythons that are essentially nocturnal, do not need to climb and do not require exposure to UVB light so long as they are fed whole vertebrates; (ii) Dragons which require exposure to relatively high levels of UVB light and a basking spot temperature that is relatively hot; (iii) Monitors which do not require exposure to UVB light as long as whole vertebrates are included as a significant part of their diet and which require the hottest basking temperatures.

When it comes to heating, there is more than one way to achieve the required effects. The following are simply my preferences (with reasons).

Terrestrial pythons are known to shelter under shallow heated rocks to absorb their heat. A heat cord covered by a slate or ceramic tile provides an excellent, safe and cheap to run mimic of what they would often use in nature. By adjusting the length of cord under the tile the desired temperature can be obtained without the need for a thermostat. There are a number of threads here that describe how to construct this easily made heating appliance. If you have any trouble locating, just let me know. Daytime lighting is not required where light from a window or skylight is adequate but if desired, light is cheaply provided by a straight, full spectrum (white) fluorescent tube or LED strip lighting.

Dragons in nature expect to get their heat, UVB and light from the one source – the sun. The best artificial alternative is a Mercury Vapour Bulb (MVB). Due to the amount heat put out by these, they can only be used in large enclosures. In a smaller enclosure, a spotlight globe and a compact fluoro UVB 10, both with reflectors, focussed on the basking spot will achieve the desired effects. By experimenting with the wattage of the spot light, you will be able to determine the required wattage to produce the desired temperature and a thermostat will not be needed. You can, if needed, simply change the wattage for different seasons. With adult lizards, if the beam from the spotlight (30[SUP]o[/SUP]) is too narrow, then switch to a floodlight (60[SUP]o[/SUP]).

Monitors require particularly hot basking spots but do not need UVB light if fed whole vertebrates. The basking spot for monitors should provide light and heat, which is what they expect in nature. A stack (sometimes known as “Retes Stack” after Frank Retes who popularised its use) is strongly advised, the top of which is the basking spot. A spotlight or floodlight focussed on top of the stack provides the needed basking spot as well as a gradation of temperatures down through its levels. Once again, correct choice of wattages of bulbs obviates the need for use of a thermostat. I will add that Varanus caudolineatus require a basking spot of 50[SUP]o[/SUP]C – 60[SUP]o[/SUP]C and need to be kept very dry. Bear in mind these are an arboreal lizard and so should be housed in an enclosure of appropriate height. Some info: http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/australian-lizards-5383/v-caudolineatus-140981/#post1753910

Blue

 

[Alchemy]

Hey,
thanks for the replys so I had a look at CHE's, the price was a little high considering the heat out put for a 100w, so I am going to try A Flood light to start with 150 watt cost $9 I also got my self a themo stat when connected I got a reading 43c and climbing with in a minut I was impressed to say the least.
cheers