Do you get sucked in by the hiked up reptile product prices?

[Skelhorn]

I finally decided to up the temperature in my tank slightly on the weekend and after looking at the effective ways to heat the entire tank slightly, not just a section I decided to spend the money.

I didn't even look at the pet shop, went straight to bunnings and found a flood light that fits perfect in the top corner of my tank (now the snakes are unable to reach the light so there is no worries or burning there).

The flood light is on a timer for a couple of hours a day (no thermostate by you could if you wanted too) and works an absolute charm, plus set me back $10. I was able to get one with barley any plastic on it and was able to remove that so it was just the cable and the light fitting! Works well and even better was only $10. It heats the tank up (and its a 120cmX90cmx60cm tank-so a decent size) to a comfortable 30-33 degree's at the 'hot' end and about 28-30 degrees at the 'cold' end, so works perfectly.

I also have a few decent sized hides that its cooler in yet again.


Anyone else had similar idea's or such so save breaking the bank? And I do understand that its business and everyone needs to survive but sometimes its a cheaper and more effective way to go elsewhere then to a petshop! No disrespect to pet shops!

 

[Dragonwolf]

I started buying bulbs from places other than pet stores and online suppliers after spending good money and having them blow in a short time. I find that the spotlight bulbs I use are sufficient until Winter hits properly. When the spots don't provide sufficient heat I use cords as well.
Like you - no disrespect to pet stores or the online suppliers (which I still make purchases from) but my location makes pet stores and online buying expensive.

I just want to clear this up - I've never felt 'sucked in' by the prices of reptile products. When I was new to keeping I did everything 'by the book' because I didn't have the knowledge or experience to take risks with my animals. I still don't take risks but as I am more knowledgable now I consider that I can make an informed decision about what products I use. I'm converting a cabinet for my Bredli and am getting opinions and guidence from everywhere so that I can make an informed decision.

 

[razeunit]

I am building my snake enclosure rather than buying. Brought to cuboards from ikea that are around 6ft long by 3ft high x 3ft deep and my good friend is cutting out the doors to put windows in. The cubboards cost me 220 for both. A little of subject but I use reptile one bulbs on a on off thermostat and they just keep on going and going. I would guess the bulb thats in now is a good 6 months old. Another brand which was reputable kept blowing after weeks of use.

 

[wokka]

I finally decided to up the temperature in my tank slightly on the weekend and after looking at the effective ways to heat the entire tank slightly, not just a section I decided to spend the money.

I didn't even look at the pet shop, went straight to bunnings and found a flood light that fits perfect in the top corner of my tank (now the snakes are unable to reach the light so there is no worries or burning there).

The flood light is on a timer for a couple of hours a day (no thermostate by you could if you wanted too) and works an absolute charm, plus set me back $10. I was able to get one with barley any plastic on it and was able to remove that so it was just the cable and the light fitting! Works well and even better was only $10. It heats the tank up (and its a 120cmX90cmx60cm tank-so a decent size) to a comfortable 30-33 degree's at the 'hot' end and about 28-30 degrees at the 'cold' end, so works perfectly.

I also have a few decent sized hides that its cooler in yet again.


Anyone else had similar idea's or such so save breaking the bank? And I do understand that its business and everyone needs to survive but sometimes its a cheaper and more effective way to go elsewhere then to a petshop! No disrespect to pet shops!

It sounds as though that set up has very little room for error and depending upon what is being kept in the tank is TOO hot. A cool end of 28-30 sounds very warm. Imagine what temperatures it will achieve in summer!

 

[Skelhorn]

It sounds as though that set up has very little room for error and depending upon what is being kept in the tank is TOO hot. A cool end of 28-30 sounds very warm. Imagine what temperatures it will achieve in summer!

I have 2 Windora Stimson's in there (they do like the warmer temperatures), They have been extremely dormant the last few weeks...the sunshine coast has had a few drops in the temperature scale since the warmer months I only bought the light for a bit of extra warmth in the Winter months...the current set up with a 14watt heatmat seems to be fine for them the flood light will go into retirement in about 4-5 months

I have been paying very close attention to the snakes since chucking the light in as I was aware the temperature was higher, I do also have-its hard to explain but they are like a mini Great Wall of China- in the tank and there is two of them in the cool end, they are a fair bit cooler then the rest of the tank, and like I said I only have it on for a couple of hours just to give the snakes a buzz... Last night for the first time in about 6 weeks my snakes were out and about exploring the tank (I also put some new branches in there) and they were both climbing around having a good geeze-Nighttime temp with the light off was around 27degree's but dropping as the warm dispersed from the tank.

Hahaha and as for temperatures in the summer if I were to keep the light in...geeze they would have to be upto 40!

The other little tip I did-which I learnt from here was put a 20cmx20cm tile over my heatmat. I previously used bark and black rounded rocks but found the rocks went to excessive temperatures and my snakes wouldn't go anywhere near it. The tile idea however is amazing, my heatmat isn't thermostat regulated but the temperature radiating from it is perfect and I have found that both the snakes are now situated at that location in the tank (thats to whoever suggested that idea-forget who it was).

So all in all I am pretty happy with them now-They have not eaten for a while- Female 4 weeks and male 8 weeks but not worried about that, after a couple of days with higher temperatures they might get a little hungry!

I am building my snake enclosure rather than buying. Brought to cuboards from ikea that are around 6ft long by 3ft high x 3ft deep and my good friend is cutting out the doors to put windows in. The cubboards cost me 220 for both. A little of subject but I use reptile one bulbs on a on off thermostat and they just keep on going and going. I would guess the bulb thats in now is a good 6 months old. Another brand which was reputable kept blowing after weeks of use.

Be sure to post pictures up of your tank when its finished mate as I would be curious to see how it turns out. Sounds like an excellent idea and a decent sized tank...I would be interested to do the same if it works well...Is the cupboards flat packed from Ikea?

 

[scorps]

I would get a thermo mate,

Temps sound too hot

 

[MR_IAN_DAVO]

Just one thing that i would like to add, is that do not under estimate the climbing ability of any snake. Certainly if a high temperature heat source is placed inside any snake enclosure it should be securely protected by a wire cage or somthing similar. It may apear that the heat source is only giving off 30 to 35c degree heat, if you are able to guage the temperature at the heat source itself it will be much hotter than that causing burns if anything was to come into contact with it.

Cheers
Ian

 

[Hoplophile]

On-off type thermostats are a recipe for blown globes...the repeated surge in power kills them in no time. If you get a dimming thermostat (Habistats are great) for incandescent lights sources AND use an over-powered globe then the system will last for ages. Do not use a pulse-proportional system - these are used for ceramic heaters and heat panels.

 

[wokka]

The problem with using a relatively large heat source in a small tank is that it is hard to get a temperature gradient. The heat mat with tile should give a warm spot of about 30-32 with a gradient down to ambient in the cool end so the snake has a choice. This would be closer to the temperatures in Windora which i imagine would range from highs of 30-32 to lows in the low teens each day.On top of this in the wild the snake has a far greater opportunity to escape extremes with the more diverse environment being available.

 

[thomasssss]

AND use an over-powered globe then the system will last for ages.

sorry but do you mean use a higher wattage to what you need if it is i don't think thats the best advise what if you thermo stops working and the light starts cooking your snakes because they cant escape the heat if you use the correct wattage the thermostat just helps to keep it at a good temp and if it blows you wont be pumping 200watt of heat at your snake

 

[Skelhorn]

The bulb I have is only a 150watt bulb and the temperature gauge is sitting right near the bulb so giving off a temperature only 15cm away is where I am getting my 32 degrees-Originally I had it down the bottom though after playing with it in locations decided right near the bulb would let me know if the temperature was getting too hot!

Thanks Ian Also my Stimmies are only 70cm long and my tank is 120cm high, the highest branch is about 40cm meaning they can't actually reach the bulb I made sure of this
Also I realise they are normally ground dwelling snakes (why did I get a higher tank? Cause I plan later on converting them to a longer tank and maybe getting a jungle for that tank

I've got the light on for 2 1/2 hours during mid day to 'mimic' maybe what it would be like in the outside environment. As I said I also have the mini Great walls stacked onto of eachother and they stay cool. Several fact sheets I have encountered for the Stimson python suggest they are comfortable in Temperatures uptp 35 Degree's so presume the 30-33 I have them in would be comfortable.

I welcome all feedback however, both good and bad I am a good sport and am willing to learn.
Thanks for the input however-keep it coming!

The problem with using a relatively large heat source in a small tank is that it is hard to get a temperature gradient. The heat mat with tile should give a warm spot of about 30-32 with a gradient down to ambient in the cool end so the snake has a choice. This would be closer to the temperatures in Windora which i imagine would range from highs of 30-32 to lows in the low teens each day.On top of this in the wild the snake has a far greater opportunity to escape extremes with the more diverse environment being available.

Whats wrong with my tank size Wokka These snakes are small...this is a good sized tank for them

 

[MR_IAN_DAVO]

The bulb I have is only a 150watt bulb and the temperature gauge is sitting right near the bulb so giving off a temperature only 15cm away is where I am getting my 32 degrees-Originally I had it down the bottom though after playing with it in locations decided right near the bulb would let me know if the temperature was getting too hot!

Thanks Ian Also my Stimmies are only 70cm long and my tank is 120cm high, the highest branch is about 40cm meaning they can't actually reach the bulb I made sure of this
Also I realise they are normally ground dwelling snakes (why did I get a higher tank? Cause I plan later on converting them to a longer tank and maybe getting a jungle for that tank

I've got the light on for 2 1/2 hours during mid day to 'mimic' maybe what it would be like in the outside environment. As I said I also have the mini Great walls stacked onto of eachother and they stay cool. Several fact sheets I have encountered for the Stimson python suggest they are comfortable in Temperatures uptp 35 Degree's so presume the 30-33 I have them in would be comfortable.

I welcome all feedback however, both good and bad I am a good sport and am willing to learn.
Thanks for the input however-keep it coming!




Whats wrong with my tank size Wokka These snakes are small...this is a good sized tank for them

Mate i am certainly not trying to ridicule you or anything that you may call it, & not commenting on other posts or anything but just mine.
Please check out & do a search in the top right hand corner on heating & also another one on temperature findings which might bring up a thread where i did some personal findings on the surface temperature of bulbs & heat emmitters.

I would bring it up for you but i am not very computer literate, & i just want to try & help you. the suface temperature of these heat sources is a lot more intense heat than i thought was even possible.

Cheers
Ian

 

[Skelhorn]

Yeah cheers Ian I will check it out and see what I can find!
Yeah I did touch the bulb to feel the temperture (so i was aware on the very very unlike off chance where a snake can climb a smooth surface) how hot they would be and it felt like a freshly boiled kettle if not hotter So easily 100+ Degree's!

 

[MR_IAN_DAVO]

[h=2][hide]- [top]Heat source temperature findings[/h]

Here are my temperature findings on the heat sources in my snake enclosures.
Unfortunatly the thermal imaging camera maxed out at 130 degrees c. this is due to that it is used mainly for bearing or motor overtemp findings which normally do not get that high.

But it did confirm the readings on my infrared thermometer which maxs out at 300 degrees c. I have no reason to doubt Carpet pythons previous findings of 150 watt emitters surface temp getting to 600 degrees c. For my findings I will refer to as 300 degrees c +

These temps are also taken on a cold day with ambient temperature of only 16 degrees c & a normal day of 30 to 40 degrees would see these temps raised somewhat.

75 watt heat lamp - surface temp of bulb 170 degrees c
- dome cage top mounted surround 48 degrees c

100 watt heat lamp - surface temp of bulb 220 degrees c
- aluminium surround 37 degrees c

100 watt ceramic heat emitter - surface temp 300+ degrees c
- aluminium surround temp 40 degrees c

100 watt ceramic heat emitter - large steel surround 35 degrees c

150 watt ceramic heat emmitter - surface temp 300+ degrees c
- aluminium surround temp 50 degrees c
- small steel surround temps 55 degrees c

These temps are the maximum temps found on the day of test.

As you can see by covering heat sources, you are much less likely to cause accidental burning to snakes or ourselves & much less likly to cause melting or fire due to combustable items comming into contact with extreme hot surfaces.

Hope this is of good information to you all.
If I can get a better infrared thermometer I will get better surface temps & let you know.

This info has already enlightened myself to the extreme heat that these sources can give off.

Cheers
Ian​

​

I think i have found it for you & if this works I am better than i thought i was.
But also please don't underestimate the climbing powers of your snakes. I have had many young snakes climb to the top of thier enclosure & wonder how the hell they did that. I have had BHPs climb the pool fence & then onto the shade pole & then try to climb onto the palm trees. So they can climb a lot better than we give them credit for.

Cheers
Ian

 

[Skelhorn]

I think i have found it for you & if this works I am better than i thought i was.
But also please don't underestimate the climbing powers of your snakes. I have had many young snakes climb to the top of thier enclosure & wonder how the hell they did that. I have had BHPs climb the pool fence & then onto the shade pole & then try to climb onto the palm trees. So they can climb a lot better than we give them credit for.

Cheers
Ian​

Thanks mate, So what do you suggest just get a wire fitting to chuck around the bulb for protection? Do you know where you can buy these or do I have to pay a visit to a pet shop? haha
I have a large bulb in the fitting atm-Can change to a smaller 100-150w bulb that doesn't phase me but currently the bulb is about 12cm wide...in comparison to the smaller ones of about 8cm..so finding a fitting might be a little harder?​

 

[Dragonwolf]

Thanks for the information Mr_Ian_Davo, very interesting.

 

[MR_IAN_DAVO]

Thanks for the information Mr_Ian_Davo, very interesting.

Hey am not impling at all that any bulbs or heat sources are better than others. you need to choose what siuts your own needs.
Yes i do use cheap heat bulbs & i also use heat emmitters & heat cables/mats. Every one of these has a different application.

Cheers
Ian

 

[Australis]

The bulb I have is only a 150watt bulb

Any money saved purchasing from a hardware store instead of a pet-store is a little redundant when you are using that many watts i think. Also the positioning of the heat so far away from basking area is pointless. 150w for a single python enclosure is very excessive. Electricity is just too expensive now to throw away heating the ceiling of an enclosure.

What i do for pythons i have had is something like a 60w (as a guide) ceramic with accessible basking area very close directly underneath caged heating (15-20cm max).


Also, when you consider the temperatures it can be easy to overstate an animals tolerance to temperatures based on locality...for example some heat sensitive species of reptile are found in North Australia also arid areas do get hot as #$^#^ during the day, but animals will hide away from these extremes... the other side is arid areas get deathly cold at night.
During one particularly bitter winter in QLD i recorded -9 in the floor of my jungle carpet aviary.

 

[MR_IAN_DAVO]

Thanks mate, So what do you suggest just get a wire fitting to chuck around the bulb for protection? Do you know where you can buy these or do I have to pay a visit to a pet shop? haha
I have a large bulb in the fitting atm-Can change to a smaller 100-150w bulb that doesn't phase me but currently the bulb is about 12cm wide...in comparison to the smaller ones of about 8cm..so finding a fitting might be a little harder?[/INDENT]

Mate you could make one yourself if you had the right gear. But this is where pet stores can help & a visit to your local pet store will probably be able to provide you with a suitable wire cage for you to mount over your heat source, if it is not the right size, consider getting a smaller size (not wattage) globe. Also as others have said avoid excessive heat when your python only needs a small basking area of about 32c tops & a cool retreat area is a must.

Cheers
Ian

 

[Skelhorn]

Any money saved purchasing from a hardware store instead of a pet-store is a little redundant when you are using that many watts i think. Also the positioning of the heat so far away from basking area is pointless. 150w for a single python enclosure is very excessive. Electricity is just too expensive now to throw away heating the ceiling of an enclosure.

What i do for pythons i have had is something like a 60w (as a guide) ceramic with accessible basking area very close directly underneath caged heating (15-20cm max).


Also, when you consider the temperatures it can be easy to overstate an animals tolerance to temperatures based on locality...for example some heat sensitive species of reptile are found in North Australia also arid areas do get hot as #$^#^ during the day, but animals will hide away from these extremes... the other side is arid areas get deathly cold at night.
During one particularly bitter winter in QLD i recorded -9 in the floor of my jungle carpet aviary.

I have two pythons in there plus on an upside we actually recently got the QLD climate change mob to come to our house and install the electicity meter etc etc and I was able to work out exactly how much that bulb uses an hour. If I were to have it on for 10 hours a day it would cost me -
.03kw per hour..which would be .3kw per day and we pay 22c per kw so approx 9c per day. etc etc but am only using the bulb for 2-3hours a day so reduces the cost greatly. I chose this bulb due to the tank size, a 60watt bulb (I realised you said as a guide) would not do anything for a tank this size, also right near the bulb is the top vent allowing air exchange-the heat from a 60 would go straight out this section.

I do have a 60watt upstairs in my Bredli tank. That tank is approx 120-140cm long. The ceremic bulb heats a very tiny section. I also see him on top of his hide positioned right below the bulb

I found that this bulb heats the top section of the wall-see photo's attached to a comfortable ttemperature...but I mainly got this bulb for heating the whole enclosure not a particular area-which I have found that when you open the tank and stick your hands in there you can feel a temperature difference in comparison to outside the tank...

I agree with the tolerence also, and have ensured that there are locations where the snakes are able to go to escape the heat.



WHOLLY -9 degree's...thats freezing haha how was the snake coping? Huddled up on the heatmat?
However thanks for the input.