First Time Snake Owner

[Computron9000]

So i just got my snake owners license, looking to buy my first snake.
I applied for the Jungle Python license and i read that they were a good first time snake.

I would just love some more information from experienced snake owners!

The snake im looking at buying is only handled when being fed, and the owner described the parents as the mother being a little aggressive, and the father very docile. It is a black and gold Jungle Python.
Is it a bad idea to get a snake when a parent is described as aggressive or is it all down to handling the hatchling when its young?

How large should i get its first terrarium also?


Any and all information greatly appreciated!

 

[insitu]

Jungle Carpets as a species are generally fairly defensive, so they bite, but thats what snakes do. imo i wouldnt handle it at all as a hatchling and when its older brave the bites and work on getting it used to handling at a more robust size and age if thats the reasons you want one

 

[Lawra]

I applied for the Jungle Python license

I never realised there were specific species licenses in NSW?

Regarding a setup, check out this thread http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/noteworthy-threads-5397/guide-build-click-clack-dial-93266/

Don't handle for the first week or two to let it settle in then attempt feeding. Once you have it feeding regularly you can attempt handling for short periods of time. Jungles are not recommended for newbies but should be fine as long as you have correct husbandry and understand that snakes do not enjoy being handled: some just tolerate it more than others.

 

[Beans]

Should go for a stimson, spotted, or even a bredli. Jungles can and usually are snappy snakes. So if you are prepared to brunt some bites, then good luck :>

 

[Pythoninfinite]

I never realised there were specific species licenses in NSW?

Regarding a setup, check out this thread http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/noteworthy-threads-5397/guide-build-click-clack-dial-93266/

Don't handle for the first week or two to let it settle in then attempt feeding. Once you have it feeding regularly you can attempt handling for short periods of time. Jungles are not recommended for newbies but should be fine as long as you have correct husbandry and understand that snakes do not enjoy being handled: some just tolerate it more than others.

There aren't. You get whatever class of licence you're entitled to and then you can acquire whatever is on that licence.

Jamie

 

[hellohello]

Pet Jungles

Jungles are a beautiful snake but do tend to bite, alot.

Best of luck with your first python!

 

[HAMISH_NOAH]

i think he is talking about a companions license where you apply to only own 1 species and can only own 1 and it costs like $30 so its cheaper for people just wanting a pet

 

[Amynickid]

I own a Jungle and he, Anarchy is known to bite randomly, he has calmed down a lot since being a hatchy and he's only a year and two months old, already almost 1.5m XD Jungle Carpet Pythons ARE DEFINITELY ONE OF THE MOST SKITTISH AND DEFENSIVE sub species. But he was my first snake and still is. with the snake your looking at buying it is completely up to you owning a hatchy was a amazing experience but i only ever plan to now buy them at breeding size and age. But it's definietly worth the none stop bites from a baby, for the joys of having him/her grow up slowly or quickly. Make sure you dont over feed or under feed. tehy should be fed once a week with 25-39% of therer body weight in rats or mice, quial, chicks etc.

Jungles generally prefer mice. so getting mine onto rats was not really difficult just frustrating and time consuming. now he smashes them down with ease. And he will soon be on small adult rats. he is on sub adults atm.

With the nice dad and mean mum, it doesnt matter its all about the individual snakes personality.. no human is the same. neither are animals. honestly research alot! it helps to ahve people around you who own pythons and have for a while also while u first start out. as i did for the first 9months. which helped alot.

heating: heating is extremely important. i recomend het cords or heat mats and a thermostat... NO HEAT ROCKS. they can and will damage your snake. and have the thermostat set to 32 degrees. thats how I have mine and its perfect.

bedding: to start with start with just news paper. easy to clean. but as the snake leaves his hatchy stage and starts his yearling stage.. almost a year old to over a year i strongly suggest repti bark, critter crumble, aspen bedding or newspaper if you wanna be boring.. NO SAND. NO GARDEN SOIL....

I use repti bark as it suits his jungle theme more with the enclosure.... sorry i bet yoou have noticed my slow decline in typing skills, i just wanna get as much info out as possible as quick as possible, sorry.


enclosure: for first 6-9months. if its a hatchy.. or a tub if older. (use it as basically quarantine, doing this will be able to make u watch ur snake closely amke sure he she is not sick and clean things easily if he is)..... use a click clack container.. like the tupper wear ones... or a tub from bunnings type thing.drill holes into it for air.... THEY NEED A HIDE this can be a purchased hide from pet store or just a cardboard box/plant pot etc. the hide goes on top of the heat spot... do not heat the whole enclosure only about 1/4 or 1/3 of it, and the hide needs to be located on that. this proviedes safety, warmth, darkness and security.

A jungle python, obviously comes from naturally a jungle habitat. so it was my best interest to set my enclosure up as decently as possible to look like a jungle. with the click clack container dont worry so much, just have something small for him/her to climb on, water bowl, heat, hide and he will be happy... with a tub.. put some sticks in. i had a stick in the click clack container suspended through it and drilled into place well screwed. give them more to play with... for a hatchy (baby) a hide could also be a toilet role tube for a month. XD

feeding: already talked about it. but best buy yourrself some feeding tongs. so they dont accidently miss and bite you. snake bites are preventable. not always but with things like that yes....

handling: never move quickly around them... scares them.... may end up with bite. most snakes hate there head being touched so avoid it, im slowly trying to just touch my snakes head without being bite it works but im still weary.... handling with confidence is key. and seriously if u wanna own a python... expect to be bite. its what they do. jsut like a dog nibbles and mawls and a cat scratches and kills poor animals...never apprach them face first always try get them from behind never head straight towards their face, try look arond and grab their body. do not restrain them with holding back of head unless neccesary.... do not play with them trhough glass as they may strike glass and hurt themselves.. for eg. tooth may end up piercing there lip. or worse. broken jaw etc.

for first week or two regardlesss of age or sizeof snake when u buy it.. leave him or her alone.. try feeding after a week. this gives them time to settlle. and then two days later start trying to handle. i say two days after feeding becaause you should never handle a snake within tw days of him her feeding.... could cause major problems and death if snake regurgitates food... i never got myself a snake hook bcos i want mine to be able to be handled so i always just braved it out aand went in with hands. but even the nicest snakes can get grumpy some days... remember this.


ummm.. im tried atm. if u need any help message me or comment. this is all i can think of atm... oh and my python loves playing in the garden or in a small tree. just make sure your with them within aa metre at all times if u let em roam around house or garden. so u dont loose, hurt or something or someone else doesnt hurt them. for example in garden or outside, cats. birds etc etc can hurt them....

but with jungles they are known for bitey personality. but hey if i can do it you can. he only bites randomly now. and in all honesty its due to me accidently scaring him, pushing my luck, or pure accident, or me just being careless while rumaging around his enclosure.

 

[Rlpreston]

1 - the hide goes on top of the heat spot... do not heat the whole enclosure only about 1/4 or 1/3 of it, and the hide needs to be located on that. this proviedes safety, warmth, darkness and security.

2 - most snakes hate there head being touched so avoid it, im slowly trying to just touch my snakes head without being bite....... expect to be bite. its what they do. jsut like a dog nibbles and mawls and a cat scratches and kills poor animals...

3 - two days later start trying to handle. i say two days after feeding becaause you should never handle a snake within tw days of him her feeding.... could cause major problems and death if snake regurgitates food...


4 - i never got myself a snake hook bcos i want mine to be able to be handled so i always just braved it out aand went in with hands. but even the nicest snakes can get grumpy some days... remember this.


5 - and my python loves playing in the garden or in a small tree. just make sure your with them within aa metre at all times if u let em roam around house or garden. so u dont loose, hurt or something or someone else doesnt hurt them. for example in garden or outside, cats. birds etc etc can hurt them....

Okay....... So I have selected a few of my favorite points from your post and though I might be able to add some value to the conversation here.

1- the hide doesn't belong on top of the heat. Ideally, more than one hide can be made available, but if using only one and having it placed directly on the heat the snake will have to choose between overheating or being exposed. Neither are very good for a young/new snake.

2 - you may be spot on there with them hating their head being touched. So, I have to ask, why on earth are you forcing your snake to endure something it 'hates' (likely causing stress)? It's not necessary to touch their head so don't do it at all!

3 - from what I have read/learned (happy to stand corrected if someone with some more experience can chip in here) the risks of regurgitation are actually rather low. Still, you are correct in that it is to be avoided, but the way you have stated it fails to lend credibility.

4 - I would always advocate removing from enclosures with a hook and from my own experience (and that of MANY others it seems) this doesn't change anything at all except to make an initial handling bite less likely. Hook them out and then handle them is the best advice on this.

5 - don't let them 'roam' anywhere, snakes are capable of impressive speed if need be and from 1m away you would be too slow to save it from any swooping birds of prey, pouncing felines. Seriously though, 'roaming' is unnecessary and pythons don't 'play'.


You've obviously got a strong desire to help others, which is lovely, but sometimes it's better to try to answer within established fact/knowledge.

 

[Amynickid]

Okay....... So I have selected a few of my favorite points from your post and though I might be able to add some value to the conversation here.

1- the hide doesn't belong on top of the heat. Ideally, more than one hide can be made available, but if using only one and having it placed directly on the heat the snake will have to choose between overheating or being exposed. Neither are very good for a young/new snake.




Plenty of people let there pythons roam and they seem to love it, so ill stick to that thanks. A lot of proffesionals do either, handle or hook when removing. and it's still a risk I personally am not willing to take as it's very likely for serious injury or death to occur. I touch him on head occasionally to try get him use to it, I know python owners who do the same. And the hide can be placed wherever, multiple hides are a great idea yes, but if the heatings right the snake will not over heat. So the only way having ahide on top of heat is if its not set to proper heat. MULTIPLE PYTHON OWNERS have told me this

- - - Updated - - -

So what you think is fact, is indeed just your opinion, just like everyone elses.

 

[Rlpreston]

Okay....... So I have selected a few of my favorite points from your post and though I might be able to add some value to the conversation here.

1- the hide doesn't belong on top of the heat. Ideally, more than one hide can be made available, but if using only one and having it placed directly on the heat the snake will have to choose between overheating or being exposed. Neither are very good for a young/new snake.




Plenty of people let there pythons roam and they seem to love it, so ill stick to that thanks. A lot of proffesionals do either, handle or hook when removing. and it's still a risk I personally am not willing to take as it's very likely for serious injury or death to occur. I touch him on head occasionally to try get him use to it, I know python owners who do the same. And the hide can be placed wherever, multiple hides are a great idea yes, but if the heatings right the snake will not over heat. So the only way having ahide on top of heat is if its not set to proper heat. MULTIPLE PYTHON OWNERS have told me this

- - - Updated - - -

So what you think is fact, is indeed just your opinion, just like everyone elses.

I think you (and your MULTIPLE PYTHON OWNERS) need to brush up on your knowledge of ectothermic temperature regulation.

As you have stated, you are well and truly entitled to your opinions on what is best to do, even if I hardly agree. The point I am making is, don't present that information as knowledge based fact or advice.

I'm sure you've had a very productive 6 months with your python but that can hardly qualify you to reply as you did to a post requesting advice from experiences owners.

For the record, it is just flat out bad advice to encourage a keeper, (who has already expressed some anxiety about a snakes temperament) or advocate grabbing it out with your hands and petting it on the head.

Snakes "enjoying" roaming is a human projection. Snakes are not pleasure seeking, they have simple brains and simple needs. Playing is not one of those.

 

[RedFox]

Okay....... So I have selected a few of my favorite points from your post and though I might be able to add some value to the conversation here.

1- the hide doesn't belong on top of the heat. Ideally, more than one hide can be made available, but if using only one and having it placed directly on the heat the snake will have to choose between overheating or being exposed. Neither are very good for a young/new snake.




Plenty of people let there pythons roam and they seem to love it, so ill stick to that thanks. A lot of proffesionals do either, handle or hook when removing. and it's still a risk I personally am not willing to take as it's very likely for serious injury or death to occur. I touch him on head occasionally to try get him use to it, I know python owners who do the same. And the hide can be placed wherever, multiple hides are a great idea yes, but if the heatings right the snake will not over heat. So the only way having ahide on top of heat is if its not set to proper heat. MULTIPLE PYTHON OWNERS have told me this

- - - Updated - - -

So what you think is fact, is indeed just your opinion, just like everyone elses.

To expand on what Rlpreston said. A lot of pythons like to have an average body temp of around 29ish. They achieve this through thermo regulation.

Most people, with the exception of some species, should have a hotspot above that temp in the mid/low 30's. By having one hide over the hot spot you are forcing them to either be exposed or at a constant temp of mid/low 30's. Neither are very good long term. I personally use a minimum of two hides. One on it near the hotspot and one at the cool end.

Are you saying using a hook is likely to harm/kill your python? If so this is false. A hook used correctly is a great tool to use. It is much less intimidating than using hands. A gentle tap wakes them up if they are resting and let's them know there is no food around.

Obviously the use of a hook is up to the individual though.

For the OP, hatchling can be kept in a click clack. There is a great tutorial under noteworthy threads on how to set one up.

Some jungles can be known for being snappy. You are better off asking the breeder which one is best for a beginner and taking it on a snake by snake basis. Most good breeders are more than happy to help out.

 

[Amynickid]

i never for one secod even hinted it would hrt them using a hook..... dunno where u got that from.

 

[RedFox]

A lot of proffesionals do either, handle or hook when removing. and it's still a risk I personally am not willing to take as it's very likely for serious injury or death to occur.

I wasn't sure what you meant hence the question mark, no offense was intended.

 

[Senator358]

A lot of proffesionals do either, handle or hook when removing. and it's still a risk I personally am not willing to take as it's very likely for serious injury or death to occur.

You said it right here or did you mean something else.

You have now posted this misinformation in two threads but there is too many things for me to try to correct you on. If you have not had much experience with pythons then it may be an idea to let some more experienced keepers answer these sorts of threads before you give someone the wrong advice.

 

[Amynickid]

i was talking about two different things. i shud have made it more obvious. each sentance was refering to something else. that was about regurgitating food and not holding for two days

 

[critterguy]

Here's a good guide for the main sp of pythons, ease/difficulty of care, husbandry etc, this is just a general guide, different snakes have different temperments but some sp are more commonly aggressive than others, best to read the whole thing.

Also don't handle them until a day or 2 after a feed because of the chance of them regurgitating the food if stressed too soon after a feed, especially not within minutes of being fed, their feeding response will likely still be kicking in and they will likely coil you.

Don't handle them close to a shed as they get a bit more tempermental and you could risk making the old skin rip before they get to start the shed and make it a harder shed for them, I think that was the 2 reasons if I remembered correctly.
Also wait a day or 2 after a shed, I forget the reason for that but have stuck to it.

Using a hook is less intimidating, my wife and I still use hands but usually after Spector has started to explore the exit (she most often sleeps on a shelf just below the door in the lid) or atleast got to register we are there if elsewhere in the tank.
Not just grab her straight up or wake her and pick her up suddenly, that's has a good chance of not going well even with a well tempered snake like ours that has rarely tried to bite even after being held down to get needles etc.

 

[Beans]

With hides, you need to have one hide on the hot spot, and a few other hides on the cooler end of the tank. This is so that it can be warmer or cooler if it likes and still remain hidden.

As mentioned only heat about 1 / 3 of the tank, the other end of the tank should be about 26 degrees.

I have always gotten my snakes out of the enclosure with my hands, you can use a hook if you like but I don't really think it makes too much of a difference.

With food and handling. General rule of thumb is to wait until the lump in the belly is gone, but I personally wait about 4 days or so. Don't handle them at all for at least 2 days after feeding to be safe

As for letting your snake roam, eeeeeh they don't really need it. But if you let them outside in a tree stand close to them and be ready to grab them if they start moving too high, or look stressed. Weather they like it or not I don't know but, I like to let freya do this sometimes just to let her smell different smells.

Yeah I just read the above post, I think it's always a good idea to let the snake know you're going to get it out. So tap on the side of the cage or something just to let it know you are there. You don't want to just take its hide away and get it out. That could freak it out a little.