Albino Carpet curled up in water bowl

[Flaviemys purvisi]

Thanks guys for the info on the water bowls you use, my MD is a chunky 6 footer, so I'll have to take that into consideration. I do have an Exo-Terra water bowl, but sadly it's too small now for any of my pythons. I'll keep it for future snakes. haha

Buy a big terracotta pot from Bunnings for like $10 And silicone up the drainage hole with a silicone gun. Let it cure for 24-48 hours and you're all set.

 

[Snapped]

Thanks Kev, another good idea. Looks like I'll have to go shopping and visit a few places. But not till next pay day, darn electricity bill just came in.

 

[Flaviemys purvisi]

Thanks Kev, another good idea. Looks like I'll have to go shopping and visit a few places. But not till next pay day, darn electricity bill just came in.

Do what I did man and Bpay your powerbill weekly. I'd get my quarterly bill, always around $700 - $800 And divide by 12... between $58 - $69 week. So I always just paid $65 weekly, bill was always covered and I was only issued with quarterly statements.
As we speak, there's 12 blokes on my roof now from Solar Hart installing 22X 290KW panels and a 6.4kw inverter. 13K worth. No more power bill for me.

 

[Mick666]

I do the same with my power bill. so much easier.

 

[Flaviemys purvisi]

I do the same with my power bill. so much easier.

I always (since 2007) paid my power bill weekly. I now pay my council rates weekly too, a lot easier to come up with $70/week rather than $1,500 every 6 months. lol

 

[pythoninfinite]

I always spray the enclosure before school.

I wonder why you do that? Constant high humidity and constant high temps will potentially cause health problems in the long-term in a relatively small enclosure. I never spray any of my Carpets, regardless of where they come from, and even my Green Pythons are lucky to get a misting more than once or twice a fortnight, and then usually when they are shedding. In a relatively small enclosed environment, consistently high temps and humidity is not mimicking nature at all, because the animals have no other niches to escape from these negative influences. The notion the we need to keep belting our snakes with constant heat 24/7 unfortunately seems deeply entrenched.

Jamie

 

[Mick666]

mine only get heat for a few hours each morning, but I'm in North Queensland so it's not hard to get the temps up. Summer they barely get any.

 

[Bl69aze]

I only spray the substrate every month or so,just to fluff it up and make it look nice aswell as easier to find any poopoo that’s been buried

 

[Yellowtail]

Do what I did man and Bpay your powerbill weekly. I'd get my quarterly bill, always around $700 - $800 And divide by 12... between $58 - $69 week. So I always just paid $65 weekly, bill was always covered and I was only issued with quarterly statements.
As we speak, there's 12 blokes on my roof now from Solar Hart installing 22X 290KW panels and a 6.4kw inverter. 13K worth. No more power bill for me.
View attachment 323762

Mate I'm getting 20 x 330W LG panels with 20 micro inverters so I don't loose efficiency if some are shaded for $8,400, plan to add a battery but waiting a year or so for the price to come down. Also have lined and super insulated my main snake room plus air con for extra hot days.
5 acre block without town water, (60,000 litre tanks and a creek) rates only $756 a year. My power bill in Sydney was close to $2000 a quarter, council and water another $6,000 a year.

 

[Flaviemys purvisi]

That's only 220kw more than my system. Less than 1 panel.
None of my panels will be shaded at all and my new tech REC TwinPeak 2 - 290W series panels work just as well on cloudy overcast days as on clear sunny days thanks to anti-reflective low iron solar glass, half cut cell design, passivated emitter rear cells, split junction boxes and five bus stars. The leading standard for polycrystalline solar panels. 13k with Solar Hart and worth every cent. Coulda got the same sized system through someone like Euro solar for $4,600 but they are dodgy as. This system was the largest I could get approval for. We're battery ready but not getting batteries at this point as my current usage wouldn't allow any charge of the batteries during the day so it'd be pointless. This system is perfect for me. My mum lives on 5 acres less than 10km away and her rates are $450. My block is in the big end of town though and I have to pay through the nose.

 

[Yellowtail]

That's only 220kw more than my system. Less than 1 panel.
None of my panels will be shaded at all and my new tech REC TwinPeak 2 - 290W series panels work just as well on cloudy overcast days as on clear sunny days thanks to anti-reflective low iron solar glass, half cut cell design, passivated emitter rear cells, split junction boxes and five bus stars. The leading standard for polycrystalline solar panels. 13k with Solar Hart and worth every cent. Coulda got the same sized system through someone like Euro solar for $4,600 but they are dodgy as. This system was the largest I could get approval for. We're battery ready but not getting batteries at this point as my current usage wouldn't allow any charge of the batteries during the day so it'd be pointless. This system is perfect for me. My mum lives on 5 acres less than 10km away and her rates are $450. My block is in the big end of town though and I have to pay through the nose.

My installer was recommended by LG. I went for the highest output panels because my effective roof area is restricted by tree shade. I have room for another 10 panels on a shed and will install those when I get the battery.

 

[Flaviemys purvisi]

My installer was recommended by LG. I went for the highest output panels because my effective roof area is restricted by tree shade. I have room for another 10 panels on a shed and will install those when I get the battery.

REC are world leaders in Solar panels, manufactured in Singapore. I've got room for at least 60 more.




Barely used any of my avail roof space and my house faces north east too.


We are battery ready, when the price comes down from 18k I'll get batteries.

 

[Yellowtail]

I’ve got a large 5 bedroom single storey but surrounded by big trees so usefull area is reduced.
You can get a Tesla battery 2 for 11K installed but price and capacity will probably be way better in a year after the Tesla 3 is released

 

[Flaviemys purvisi]

I’ve got a large 5 bedroom single storey but surrounded by big trees so usefull area is reduced.
You can get a Tesla battery 2 for 11K installed but price and capacity will probably be way better in a year after the Tesla 3 is released

I assume you've no intentions of bringing any of the trees down or at least lopping them partially?
[doublepost=1523255158,1523255055][/doublepost]The battery we'd be looking at is the LG CHEM RESU10H Battery.

 

[Jason m]

its nothing to do with shedding! especially as the enclosure has good humidity already. ...If they soak in the bowl before shedding , it’s only ever briefly , once. Any longer will soften the skin too much, similar to human skin after too long in the bath or pool.

I can GUARANTEE it’s trying to stay cool. Do you have the Heaton overnight? You should turn the heat off at night, it’s not needed.

All that’s required in the enclosure is one hotspot area of adequate temperature, 30-35 (35 MAX!), with the rest of the enclosure remaining at room temp. This allows the snake to efficiently choose his desired body temp by moving to the hotspot and back.

If the enclosure cool end is 29, it’s way too warm, the snake can’t escape the heat. They MUST be able to escape heat.

Snakes DONT LIKE TO BE WARM all the time, unlike warm blooded creatures with near constant metabolism rates. They have a wide range of preferred temps, warmer when digesting a meal, and cooler in between meals. If they have no food in their digestive tract, they like to remain cool to slow their metabolism, saving energy. Pythons increase their metabolism (heart rate, breathing, oxygen usage, energy production) by a staggering 15 times after eating a meal, which requires warmer body temperature. It’s Interesting to watch how a snakes breathing rate differs so widely. In between meals in cool conditions, a snakes breathing may not even be noticeable (as expansion/contraction of the lungs). But after a meal when the snake is warmed to its preferred “digestive” temp, it will often be seem to be rapidly breathing Large volumes in and out.

IF the enclosure is small , you may need to change the heat source to a different type, I.e heat rock/pad, to avoid heating the whole enclosure like an oven.

Yes, snakes need a SOURCEof heat, but that doesn’t mean they need to always be KEPT. warm, as that will eventually do damage to a snake if it is always “stuck” in a warm box. They simply need ACCESS to heat, at their discretion.

I would suggest immediately lowering temps, providing cooler spots, and ACCURATELY measuring the air temps, surface temps and body temp of the snake. I use an infrared “temp gun” to measure my snakes temp, and have two seperate dual thermometer probes at strategic locations. That’s a total of five readings.

DONT just wait and see if he stops soaking. his behaviour is telling you something isn’t right, snakes can endure low temps (even below freezing ambient overnight) for extended periods of time, but constant heat will just cook them in no time

 

[Lanea]

its nothing to do with shedding! especially as the enclosure has good humidity already. ...If they soak in the bowl before shedding , it’s only ever briefly , once. Any longer will soften the skin too much, similar to human skin after too long in the bath or pool.

I can GUARANTEE it’s trying to stay cool. Do you have the Heaton overnight? You should turn the heat off at night, it’s not needed.

All that’s required in the enclosure is one hotspot area of adequate temperature, 30-35 (35 MAX!), with the rest of the enclosure remaining at room temp. This allows the snake to efficiently choose his desired body temp by moving to the hotspot and back.

If the enclosure cool end is 29, it’s way too warm, the snake can’t escape the heat. They MUST be able to escape heat.

Snakes DONT LIKE TO BE WARM all the time, unlike warm blooded creatures with near constant metabolism rates. They have a wide range of preferred temps, warmer when digesting a meal, and cooler in between meals. If they have no food in their digestive tract, they like to remain cool to slow their metabolism, saving energy. Pythons increase their metabolism (heart rate, breathing, oxygen usage, energy production) by a staggering 15 times after eating a meal, which requires warmer body temperature. It’s Interesting to watch how a snakes breathing rate differs so widely. In between meals in cool conditions, a snakes breathing may not even be noticeable (as expansion/contraction of the lungs). But after a meal when the snake is warmed to its preferred “digestive” temp, it will often be seem to be rapidly breathing Large volumes in and out.

IF the enclosure is small , you may need to change the heat source to a different type, I.e heat rock/pad, to avoid heating the whole enclosure like an oven.

Yes, snakes need a SOURCEof heat, but that doesn’t mean they need to always be KEPT. warm, as that will eventually do damage to a snake if it is always “stuck” in a warm box. They simply need ACCESS to heat, at their discretion.

I would suggest immediately lowering temps, providing cooler spots, and ACCURATELY measuring the air temps, surface temps and body temp of the snake. I use an infrared “temp gun” to measure my snakes temp, and have two seperate dual thermometer probes at strategic locations. That’s a total of five readings.

DONT just wait and see if he stops soaking. his behaviour is telling you something isn’t right, snakes can endure low temps (even below freezing ambient overnight) for extended periods of time, but constant heat will just cook them in no time

Thanks for this. My coastal has been sleeping in his water bowl at night, only the past 3 nights. I too suspected he is escaping heat, bc def has no mites. I've given him hides in the hot, medium and cool end. But I think I may try turning off his heat at night from midnight till 7am and will check temp throughout the night tonight, to see what reading I get (Have infrared gun) I am in Melbourne and its just become quite cold here and we have the heater on, on low at night for our benefit in the house from about 4 days ago. That's when he started water bowl sleeping. Obviously the reptile enclosures temp and gradient changed 4 days ago once we added house heater heat.

Going to keep heater on for us tonight and turn off coastal light/heat source through the night. Betcha he won't be sleeping in the water bowl tonight!