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Tit4n

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I did this in 2010, but due to few people asking me on HOW, i thought id post this up :)

This part will take some time to perfect and get right, so try not to rush it and allow at least 1 week for its completion.


Things you will need:

- Acrylic water based paint.
- Styrofoam.
- Acrylic water based concrete/grout/rock sealer. (Non toxic, with no vapours)
- General builders cement mixed with sand
- Backing board. (To which wall be attached to/Formed from).
- PVA glue.
- Liquid nails.
- Stanley knife.
- Vacum cleaner.

Went down to my local general Harvey Norman type store and at the back found heaps of sheets.
35mpd1d.jpg


Got some perspex and measured the size of the wall in the enclosure to suit.
2zz2kqs.jpg


Spread liquid nails to bond the perspex and foam:
2ewp5pw.jpg


After you apply the foam down, lift it back up to allow some air to create stronger faster bonding.
1zfigt4.jpg


So now its dry (allow around an hour) you will see a clean canvas:
ve13y1.jpg


Once you have drawn a rough idea it will be easier to work from here.
2jfi1py.jpg


Shaping begins, adding additional foam with liquid nails to hold it.
qz1x0j.jpg


Start to slice off any obvious sharp corners with the knife, scratching few surfaces to remove the flat boring look.
2zs5pnp.jpg

27zkll3.jpg


By this stage the previously drawn concept went in the bin as more ideas came to mind. I dont want to make the wall come out too much to waste the enclosure space, so some texture is in order with a mild basking spot. (While there will also be thick branches inside for more direct basking).
291lqua.jpg


Here you can see more "scratching" to remove the flat surfaces.
2wpjkoy.jpg

t83qfm.jpg

154arkp.jpg


Now i have mixed cement+sand, put some render colour in (Optional) and some PVA glue to give it some flexibility and better bonding. Try to create a soup type compound where majority is PVA and only some water to thin it out.

Using a medium size brush i dab it on getting into all the little gaps, line etc.
After the first coat i will let it dry 24 hours and then go again to build it up....

w02df6.jpg


When you get to your 2nd and 3rd coat i advise for you to get a sponge and smooth out some of those brush strokes out.

When cementing stage is out of the way feel free to start painting by mixing the paint with some water and spraying it on with a $2 hand sprayer bottle, creating the effect desired.

After its dry apply black paint into cracks and tights corners/joints to create darkness depth.

(Sorry i didnt take pics of these steps)

Once again get a spray bottle and go over it once more to finish the theme.

Once all that is dry apply the cement/grout/rock sealer and allow to dry (Also with spray bottle) 2 coats is more recommended for durability and especially in high traffic areas. While its drying feel free to sprinkle some sand, loose dirt for traction and a more natural feel/look.

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.
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Final product:
23hrsjs.jpg


Note; Soon i will be selling this enclosure with thermo, lights, timer etc etc as im in process of making a new one ;)
 
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Mate sensational thread and appears along the lines of how Jax goes about it. Some great information as I am in the process of just starting my fake background having collected a wad of foam from various sources. I found the fruit and veg retailers to be very useful in supplying the polystyrene broccoli containers and also managed to stumble across some at Target.

You mentioned a backing board...i.e. perspex in your example but is it absolutely necessary and could the foamwork be applied direct to (in my case) melamine ??? Liquid nails or pva glue should bond ok.

Now i have mixed cement+sand, put some render colour in (Optional) and some PVA glue to give it some flexibility and better bonding. Try to create a soup type compound where majority is PVA and only some water to thin it out.

What are your approximate ratios for the above???? i.e. cement/sand/render/pva/water or is a guesstimation?

Cheers.
 
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That’s absolutely amazing!! Thanks for the very clear write up.
-Off topic what are the LCD type panels on either side of the enclosure, they look fancy!
 
:) my liquid consists of 50/50 water&PVA then add render until the desired consistency is reached - each coat thicker than the last
 
Thanks for your comments guys :).

Reptalica: I used perspex as it will not warp from moisture, and is easy to transfer around while in the making. If you get 3mm melamine with one side laminated (Around $6 from bunnings for 1200x600x600) that will also work.
Make sure the backing is light enough as with all that cement it gets tricky to carry around and adds to the weight of the enclosure if you need to lug it around in future.

My mix is something along the lines of: 70% PVA, 25% water, 5% acrylic grout sealer, then as Jax suggested you add cement and keep mixing to get a nice soup consistency. If you get it too thick don't panic and just add bit more water. It must be like a mix between milkshake and thickshake consistency easy enough to put on the brush and while it almost runs/drips off it you apply to the surface.

SkitzMaster: The LCD displays are thermometers/humidity screens. One on cool end and one on hot end. They also record the maximum temp reached and lowest temp reached. Very good for keeping accurate track of temps inside.
 
Thanks Jax. Knew it wouldn't be long before you chimed in with a reply and informed answer :D

LOL, my radar seems to let me know when someone has posted something interesting.

I find a pencil butane torch really handy for taking the flat surface off, just make sure you're in a ventilated area (or put a fan on a distance away to blow the fumes away) the flame doesn't have to touch the foam to get a great result
 
LOL, my radar seems to let me know when someone has posted something interesting.

I find a pencil butane torch really handy for taking the flat surface off, just make sure you're in a ventilated area (or put a fan on a distance away to blow the fumes away) the flame doesn't have to touch the foam to get a great result

I'll just wait till the cheese and kisses is in a bad mood then I can get her to blow some hot air onto the foam.
 
How does it go with cleaning Tit4n?

haha reptalica I still giggle at cheese and kisses.
 
LOL, I hope she doesn't read the forum or your tank won't be the only thing receiving hot air !
 
the thing I am curious about is it strong enough for a dragon to climb on without ripping into the foam?
I once built something with space filler and painted it and covered it with marine grade sealer for a tortoise but claws did some damage
 
Mad: easy to clean, simple vacume up, spray with cleaner and then spray with water after all runs down as its is waterproof.

Dragonlover: this is not just styrafoam, hence the reason for cement and pva mix. It creates a hard rock like feel and very tough. Pushing it with a finger wont even flex it.
 
If I place the background (foam) directly onto the melamine would that work ok??? I would be using either pva glue or liquid nails as the adhesive or is a backing board i.e. perspex, pegboard the way to go and mount the foam onto that???
 
I work directly on the enclosure, no chance of inhabitant getting behind, and no matter how it's attached to the enclosure, if sealed properly it's easy to clean
 
LOL, my radar seems to let me know when someone has posted something interesting.

I find a pencil butane torch really handy for taking the flat surface off, just make sure you're in a ventilated area (or put a fan on a distance away to blow the fumes away) the flame doesn't have to touch the foam to get a great result

I've done the same, I also use a heat gun (industrial hair dryer) I bought a cheapy from bunnings, it works great to create random, more natural shapes compared to just carving.
 
I've done the same, I also use a heat gun (industrial hair dryer) I bought a cheapy from bunnings, it works great to create random, more natural shapes compared to just carving.

I have used that for few areas, you can see some of the heat melting in this pic:
t83qfm.jpg
 
love it, similar to a certain hawkesbury resident said elsewhere I hate all you talented people, my first attempt failed so bad........no pics were taken lol

*this should be made a sticky it's got all the right info' and pictures to match up 99.99% of it
 
love it, similar to a certain hawkesbury resident said elsewhere I hate all you talented people, my first attempt failed so bad........no pics were taken lol

*this should be made a sticky it's got all the right info' and pictures to match up 99.99% of it


Another wall made using same method by me:

2jg1c8n.jpg


1494fg7.jpg
 
Hey All,
Such a great idea and lots of good results here!!!! :). Just another tip: make friends with your local Aquarium shop. They receive all their fish in plastic bags inside good sized styrofoam boxes, which they then have to dump. I've had to move house and used all styrofoam boxes supplied to me free by the Aquarium guy next door to my brother's shop. (BTW - you can't beat them for packing up a house, they are waterproof and tetrus together beautifully, plus no arses falling out like with cardboard boxes!) I have an endless supply of styrofoam needless to say.......so all you DIY junkies race down to your local Pet shop. Even if you offer to pay a bit for each box, it's worth it. ;)

Morgana
 
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