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lawrence5

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:?: I have 2 yearling murray darling in a 1200x600x600 mm enclosure with a 150w infrared heat lamp from URS is seemed to only get from christmas to now out of the lamp. Should I go to a ceramic heat emitter or not. If so should I use the same wattage. What temps should I run during the seasonal changes I run the hot end at about 30 degrees and the cold end at the moment with it being cold is 18 degrees. I have cages over the lamps and no normal or fluro lights is that OK :? .
Cheers Justin
 
I dont like ceramic heat emitters. Just a personal choice but its hard to tell if it is actually working or not unless you stick your hand in and feel the warmth. With my enclosures I just use normal everyday incandescent bulbs (red globes).I also use 2 globes per enclosure.Should 1 blow I still have the back up of the 2nd globe for security not letting temps drop dramatically.I'd prefer 2x 75watt globes over 1x 150 watt. I know many people that dont use arteficial lighting and they have success.As for temps I try to use the following heat:

Day
Summer 32-30*
Spring + Autumn 28-26*
Winter 24-22* or 22-20* depending on age and species

Night
Summer 28-26*
Spring + Autumn 24-22*
Winter 20-18* or 18-16* depending on age and species
 
:)

Whereas I DO like ceramic heaters - the thermometer tells me if it's working or not, and they last a LOT longer and don't interrupt the day/night cycle. :eek: However, it all boils down to what you feel most comfortable with - either is good!
 
True David,
It comes down to personal choice.
For me its mainly because incandescents are alot cheaper.Also because I run 3 tiered enclosures off the 1 thermostat I prefer the safety of 2 heat sources incase the pilot enclosures globe blows I have the safety of a back up so the other 2 cages wont be on constant heat.
 
I use ceramics and I love 'em! If you don't trust your thermometer you can always wire in a small L.E.D. as an indicator.
 
I am a fan of the ceramic too...and economically it works out cheaper in the end as you are replacing IR bulbs every 4 months.
Africa how do you wire a LED to tell you when the emitter is kaput vs the power supply is off?

Cheers Hawkeye
 
African - You could follow Homer Simpson's "Everything's OK alarm" idea and have a siren that sounds every 5 seconds telling you that the ceramic is working....:lol:
 
I don't like ceramics, mostly due to the risk of thermal burns. Even with a wire cage, the cage often get hot enough to burn.
I use radiant heat panels, am finding them expensive but great. Also should have a life of pretty much forever so a once off cost only.
They have a built in red LED that tells you when they are on and also gives off just enough light to see your snakes by (once you let your eyes adjust to a dark room)
This is definately one of those personal choice areas. In answer to your question Justin, yes you can go ceramic if you want to, they do get a much longer life than IR lamps. Yes, go the same wattage if the 150W IR lamp was doing the job nicely (pretty sure you can get 150W ceramics.) But you will have no light to see your snake by at night if you do this. If you have an edison screw fitting for your golbes, worth checking out is the herp shop economy IR globes @$7.00 each. Only in 60 and 75W though :(
 
Hi there, I see that heat panels were mentioned. I have used only heat panel for over ten years and have not had one break yet. Used properly they are the best. You can read up on them at
http://www.pro-products.com/proheat.html
If you mention The SnakeBabe sent ya you may get a discount!

Hugs and Hissessss,
Maria
 
Hi Lawrence

I assume that you are running a thermostat with the lamp. This will switch on and off as the temp hits the mark. If you incorporate a dimmer switch between the thermostat and the lamp. Then set the dimmer so that it's set just below the max of the thermostat (which can be set a little higher). This way the lamp stays on continuosly at a lower output and doesn't suffer the stree of the on / off shock. I do the same with my ceramics (which are hidden in the enclosure hoods behind a metal flyscreen mesh - inaccessible to them that snakes)

G 8)
 
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