D
Dannyboi
Guest
Yeah true but in that case you can use sheet foam. I dunno what else would be an option. This with a cardboard box should suffice but it may not take the weight of an olive python sitting on it. ahaah
How To Make A Hide
- Thread starter saximus
- Start date
Help Support Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum:
- Status
saximus
Almost Legendary
It's for a 5 or 6' Jungle and a couple of spotteds. After reading stuff on the group I was thinking of using chicken wire for strength and use something round as the mould. So it won't have any big horizontal parts and won't be taking heaps of weight.
Cheers Rockstar I'll check it out. I also saw something about just sprinkling sand on the last coat of grout/cement for the textured thing
How easy is expand foam to work with? Any tips for practising shaping and stuff before I try this? Do you shape it while it's wet or just wait till it's dry and cut it?
Cheers Rockstar I'll check it out. I also saw something about just sprinkling sand on the last coat of grout/cement for the textured thing
How easy is expand foam to work with? Any tips for practising shaping and stuff before I try this? Do you shape it while it's wet or just wait till it's dry and cut it?
D
Dannyboi
Guest
Yeah sprinkling sand looks off trust me.
I made hides for my snakes using popsticks and tissues...
I made a frame out of popsticks (using glue to hold it all together of course!), allowing it to dry as I went, then when it was ready I paper-mached ordinary tissues all over it. How you use the tissues determines how the texture comes out. I painted and sealed them and my snake hasn't had any problems with them. Using this method means the hides are lightweight (sure the snake will probably be able to move them around, but at least if it falls it won't hurt them - my enclosure is largely vertical) and easy to replace and clean.
I made a frame out of popsticks (using glue to hold it all together of course!), allowing it to dry as I went, then when it was ready I paper-mached ordinary tissues all over it. How you use the tissues determines how the texture comes out. I painted and sealed them and my snake hasn't had any problems with them. Using this method means the hides are lightweight (sure the snake will probably be able to move them around, but at least if it falls it won't hurt them - my enclosure is largely vertical) and easy to replace and clean.
D
Dannyboi
Guest
Thats a fairly good idea. I think you could solve the moving around bit somehow. I will let you know when I think of a safe way.
reptishack101
Not so new Member
i yous expanda foam i spray a big blob then it expans 3 times the size and then i carve it to the shape i want and hollow the inside out then paint it with that paint from bunnings that feels like rocks when dry, they yous it in houses as a feature wall its expansive but looks great then i do a coat of non toxic matt finish so its not all glossy when i buy the paint if i dont like the colour they got there i ask them to change it up a little to look like i want it to they usually dont charge extra for this, this also works well for backgrounds and the paint is made to last the great aussie heat so shouldent crack with heat like cement and grout can
for expanda foam i just yous ether a sharp Stanly knife or a glass ingraver my dad had lying in the shed for years they cost about $20 for a cheap one and anything higher for an expansive one just a Stanly knife is good for smaller jobs small being a 600mm by 600mm back ground and large being 1200mm by 600mm i started yousing the Stanly knife but have resantly found out the glass ingraver works 3 times quicker also its trial and eror but just remember if you cut it wrong you can always patch it up with more foam till its they way you want it
for expanda foam i just yous ether a sharp Stanly knife or a glass ingraver my dad had lying in the shed for years they cost about $20 for a cheap one and anything higher for an expansive one just a Stanly knife is good for smaller jobs small being a 600mm by 600mm back ground and large being 1200mm by 600mm i started yousing the Stanly knife but have resantly found out the glass ingraver works 3 times quicker also its trial and eror but just remember if you cut it wrong you can always patch it up with more foam till its they way you want it
Last edited:
dylan-rocks
Well-Known Member
caution do not use any spray paint on stiro foam because it turns into something like acid that melts and burns it away
J-A-X
Very Well-Known Member
A hacksaw blade works well on expanda foam. And a bit easier to control than a Stanley blade. They (Stanley blades) can easily slip if it hits a hard bit, please be super careful with Stanley knives a good friend slashed an artery when one slipped.
@ saximus can I link this thread in the DIY group ? It's exactly the sort of thing we're after.
@ saximus can I link this thread in the DIY group ? It's exactly the sort of thing we're after.
A good mould would be a suitable sized bowl or food storage container. Just cut an entry hole and start from there. For hides the expanda foam method would be best to get the basic shape and add bits of polystyrene into it before it hardens to get your desired look. Generally the expanda foam has a natural uneven surface when it hardens so you only really need to trim off any abnormally large lumps. Then you can paint it with a cement/paint mix like danny suggested and you can also mix in some sand to give it a rough texture. If your a bit arty you can mix up some natural colored paints and give it a more natural look with the varying shades
saximus
Almost Legendary
Jax: Feel free to link it. You guys have been so helpful how could I say no 
Hornet: I was actually thinking something like a big salad bowl for the round shape so cheers for confirming. I'm not really "arty" (being an engineer and all) but I definitely think I have some great ideas now.
I'll post pics when I finally have time to make them
Hornet: I was actually thinking something like a big salad bowl for the round shape so cheers for confirming. I'm not really "arty" (being an engineer and all) but I definitely think I have some great ideas now.
I'll post pics when I finally have time to make them
For moulds, I use the plastic storage boxes you get from Go-Lo, they start at about $5 depending on the size. For smaller snakes, the decor 5 litre red lunchboxes work well. You can get big ones - about 15-20 litre for under $10.
For my lizards I have also used 'In-trays' ... the plastic ones that are stackable that you find on any office desk. No need to make an entrance hole for these.
Melt an entrance to the container with a soldering iron or cut with a stanley knife. I find the soldering iron better because sometimes the plastic can be brittle and stan can snap it. If you use the soldering iron do it in a well ventilated area as the plastic will give off fumes as it melts.
Cover with expanda foam .... wear disposable gloves! ..... pat down lightly as you go to so it smooths out a little and doesn't look like long strands of turds!
Leave for 24 hours and then paint. Don't bother with grout or cement on expanda foam because it doesn't stick very well (even with bondcrete in it). I use cheap fence paint in mission brown or green as a base and then highlight with cheap tubes of acrylic paint from the $2 shop.
I find sponges - the ones with the harsh green side and the yellow sponge bit - are great for applying paint affects, and spray paint works a treat as well.
One large can of expanda foam does one large hide (15 litre container) and one small hide (5 litre lunchbox) and an In-Tray.
I'm just starting out but having a great time making stuff, and I'm getting a bit carried away getting foam from dumpsters outside shops!
I've done a couple of backgrounds, some hides and just some random formations for my lizards to climb under or over.
I still use alot of natural things like real rocks and branches, but made stuff is much easier to clean.
P.S. Old style foam eskies also make a great base for a hide for smaller snakes & lizards
For my lizards I have also used 'In-trays' ... the plastic ones that are stackable that you find on any office desk. No need to make an entrance hole for these.
Melt an entrance to the container with a soldering iron or cut with a stanley knife. I find the soldering iron better because sometimes the plastic can be brittle and stan can snap it. If you use the soldering iron do it in a well ventilated area as the plastic will give off fumes as it melts.
Cover with expanda foam .... wear disposable gloves! ..... pat down lightly as you go to so it smooths out a little and doesn't look like long strands of turds!
Leave for 24 hours and then paint. Don't bother with grout or cement on expanda foam because it doesn't stick very well (even with bondcrete in it). I use cheap fence paint in mission brown or green as a base and then highlight with cheap tubes of acrylic paint from the $2 shop.
I find sponges - the ones with the harsh green side and the yellow sponge bit - are great for applying paint affects, and spray paint works a treat as well.
One large can of expanda foam does one large hide (15 litre container) and one small hide (5 litre lunchbox) and an In-Tray.
I'm just starting out but having a great time making stuff, and I'm getting a bit carried away getting foam from dumpsters outside shops!
I've done a couple of backgrounds, some hides and just some random formations for my lizards to climb under or over.
I still use alot of natural things like real rocks and branches, but made stuff is much easier to clean.
P.S. Old style foam eskies also make a great base for a hide for smaller snakes & lizards
saximus
Almost Legendary
Nice work Lippy they look really nice. Do you need to put something on the mould so the foam doesn't stick to it or can you just pull it out once it's dry?
Thanks! These were my first attempts, the ones I have on the go are improving!
I haven't figured a way to get the container out...because the foam expands so much and so it gets into the rim where the lid would sit on the container if it was the right way around.
I haven't given it a huge amount of thought yet but will because it would be so much better to re-use the container as a mould.
I reckon if you could stop the foam getting into the rim it would be easy to pry it apart when the foam is about 70% set.
I have tried half heartedly when doing one but I think the next one I'll give it a good yank and see how hard it is to get out.
Expanda foam doesn't have many good points, but one of them is that it takes hours to fully set so if you damage it in any way in the early stages then it keeps expanding to cover up your mistake!
L
LizardLady
Guest
Hi all!
I've made hides for my geckos using foam balls (from Craft Shops), Bondcrete (used for sticking tiles to a floor), and Grout colour.
First cut ball in half, 'scoop' out the middle (not too much, you'll need a little bit of thickness to make it sturdy)...
Then break off (or cut) an entrance...
Mix Bondcrete and Grout colour with water to make a thick paste...
With a paint-brush, dab on 'paste', inside and out, paying particular attention to any cracks or crevices. If you do it 'roughly', it will look better (imo)...
Sprinkle sand (your choice of colour, I used Red Desert Sand) over the 'hide' whilst still wet, so the sand will set with the Bondcrete...
Set aside to dry...
Here are the photographic 'steps'...
You are now only limited by your imagination!
Hope this helps!
Best,
Carolyn
I've made hides for my geckos using foam balls (from Craft Shops), Bondcrete (used for sticking tiles to a floor), and Grout colour.
First cut ball in half, 'scoop' out the middle (not too much, you'll need a little bit of thickness to make it sturdy)...
Then break off (or cut) an entrance...
Mix Bondcrete and Grout colour with water to make a thick paste...
With a paint-brush, dab on 'paste', inside and out, paying particular attention to any cracks or crevices. If you do it 'roughly', it will look better (imo)...
Sprinkle sand (your choice of colour, I used Red Desert Sand) over the 'hide' whilst still wet, so the sand will set with the Bondcrete...
Set aside to dry...
Here are the photographic 'steps'...
You are now only limited by your imagination!
Hope this helps!
Best,
Carolyn
Attachments
saximus
Almost Legendary
They look awesome Carolyn. Man so many awesome ideas. How big can you get those foam balls? My Jungle will need something fairly decent sized. Thanks everyone for the suggestions and ideas. Keep them coming
How do you get one of these turned into a sticky? I think it would be quite helpful for new DIYers.
How do you get one of these turned into a sticky? I think it would be quite helpful for new DIYers.
J-A-X
Very Well-Known Member
Maybe if we push hard enough we could have our own space on the forum.... that would be awesome....
as well as the 'in-box' suggestion, you could use kitty litter trays, only $2 from the local 'reject' type of shop. For the larger hides i wouldn't worry about removing the mould, it will add a bit of strength to it. expanda foam isn't known for its strength over a larger area with no support. A kitty litter tray would easily fit a 6ft snake both in it and on top of it.
great to see people now taking progress shots, a picture paints a thousand words so they say, yours almost look like coconut halves Carolyn.
as well as the 'in-box' suggestion, you could use kitty litter trays, only $2 from the local 'reject' type of shop. For the larger hides i wouldn't worry about removing the mould, it will add a bit of strength to it. expanda foam isn't known for its strength over a larger area with no support. A kitty litter tray would easily fit a 6ft snake both in it and on top of it.
great to see people now taking progress shots, a picture paints a thousand words so they say, yours almost look like coconut halves Carolyn.
saximus
Almost Legendary
Great suggestion Jax. We just need a mod to read this now and get it rolling *ahem* Fay if you're reading this...
When you paint the cement or whatever onto it does that add a lot of weight? Like was mentioned earlier I worry about the bigger ones being able to shift them and even knock them off and damage it or themselves.
When you paint the cement or whatever onto it does that add a lot of weight? Like was mentioned earlier I worry about the bigger ones being able to shift them and even knock them off and damage it or themselves.
J-A-X
Very Well-Known Member
I saw Colin floating around on one of the other threads.....
the paint won't add any significant weight to it. and with larger hides, as long as it is stable and on the floor, Heavier is better. it wont be dragged around the enclosure. If its going on a shelf then maybe think about putting a 'lip' on the shelf so it doesn't shift and keep the weight to a minimum.
the paint won't add any significant weight to it. and with larger hides, as long as it is stable and on the floor, Heavier is better. it wont be dragged around the enclosure. If its going on a shelf then maybe think about putting a 'lip' on the shelf so it doesn't shift and keep the weight to a minimum.
Yep, a lip on high shelves works great. I made my shelves to fit my hides and the dowel holds them in place.
I don't have alot of experience with snakes ones on the ground as mine sit up high, but for my lizards who have substrate you just squish it down in there and it doesn't move.
My hides with the foam on them and 3-4 coats of paint and varnish are totally lightweight and wouldn't harm an animal if they managed to knock it over.
My 2yr old Bredli hasn't shifted one even during shedding. His favourite spot is actually sitting on top of one.
For the backgrounds, my first one I did with cement and the weight of it was ridiculous. After switching to tile grout it's lightweight and easy to manoeuvre.
P.S. Another mould for smaller animals is go to Bunnings and buy a $1 or $2 bucket they they usually have on special at the end of aisles and cut the bottom out about 3-4 inches from the bottom, turn it upside down and cut an entrance. Cheap as!!
Great size for juvenile morelia or antaresia
- Status
