Lighting/Heating

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Nathan101

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Ok well I'm buying my tank, lighting and heating stuff tomorrow.
Could I get some info on basic lighting/heating of a enclosure. I remember looking at a diagram with information on it but can't find it.



Thanks guys

Nathan
 
Basically:

One heat source at one end connected to a thermostat and aim for a gradient of 32 hot 25 cold (depends on species).
What you use depends on what you want-heat emitter (ceramic lasts longer than glass) or IR bulb arrangement. Also there are radiant heaters (she herpshop) and heat coils and heat matts. Your choice dependant on the effect that you want. If you have a naked (exposed) heat source I also suggest that you have a cage around it as some snakes (diamonds come to mind) like to climb and cuddle heat lamps.

Lights: depends on the effect that you want. Either naked standard bulb of varying wattage (use edison ceramic screw fittings rather than bayonets and you can interchange the bulbs easier with heat emmitters if you wnat to change things). Remember that they also emit heat as well so people tend to keep them at the hot end with their heat source.
Also if you are going to use a light source it is best to have it on a timer to get a day/night cycle as then animal will then act a bit more naturally.
Bulbs may also need a cage to prevent burns to your snake.
Slightly more complicated option is a fluro tube which gives off less heat but more light with less cost (eletricity). You have to make the system snake proof tho as they get into fluoro tubes and hide in the tube holder/wiring or whatever. The other advantage is the ability to add UV tubes to fluoros and therefore allow a certain amount of UV light for dependant animals.
Other options are halogen downlights and specialized UV mercury lights whic require a bit of work to build into a system.
You may also think about a blue or red light source for your system as well for night illumination. This allows you to look at your animals (particularly if they are nocturnal) and also provide backup heat (low wattage bulb) if your primary heat soruce fails.
This can be linked to your day light source via a Night/Day timer (see www.reptilebarn.com.au) so that you can get more consistent day night cycles.

Hope this helps

Cheers Hawkeye

PS: I suggest that you use a licenced electrician to put the enclosure lighting together as it may invalidate your insurance if their is a fault in the wiring that burns your house down.
 
Thanks for that.
I went down to Reptile Barn and they gave me a heat mat and said that will do for the heating of the enclosure for a childrens python. But I'm not sure that will be enough?



thanks Nathan
 
Should be fine as long as you can establish a gradient. What enclosure are you using? Plastic pet cage or proper enclosure.

Cheers Hawkeye
 
The problem with glass tanks is that they don't hold heat well and if it nis large and your heat mat is not you may have a bit of a problem with low temps especially at this time of year. You should try it but put in a high/low thermometer in to have a look at what is happening at the temperature. Those indoor/outdoor thermometers are good I got one with recording facility and hygrometer for $39 at Dick Smiths prior to putting the snake in it. If it doesn't reach temperature then you need to take it back and change it for a heat system that does warm the enclosure to the temp required (remember aiming for a 32/25 gradient roughly.) All that being equal, Childrens can probably tolerate cooler than that but it's nice to have higher temps available if required.

Cheers Hawkeye
 
Those Dick Smith Thermometer / Hygrometer devices are just great aren't they? I have one permanently fixed in each of my enclosures and I just Love them :)
 
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