mad_at_arms
Very Well-Known Member
A couple of coats of acrylic paint will suffice.
I would no more gaps the drill holes.
As soon as the smell from the paint/sealer is gone.
Airflow problems with new enclosure
- Thread starter blakewilson
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A couple of coats of acrylic paint will suffice.
I would no more gaps the drill holes.
As soon as the smell from the paint/sealer is gone.
caliherp
Well-Known Member
.
Last edited:
J-A-X
Very Well-Known Member
Looks like mad beat me to it.
If you've got some silicone/no more gaps open then just a smear of that in the vent holes, with your finger - remove the vents it's easier to smear and make sure it's sealed
smileysnake
Well-Known Member
with your airflow problem vents shoulb placed down low on hot side and up high on the cold side to create proper airflow and to get your ambient temps right one vent in middle not gonna do jack....easily fixed mate like cypher said bunnings is great even buy some sink drains they do the trick bunnings have heaps of those plastic vents in all different sizes just got to find the right size for your enclosure.....good luck...
buffcoat
Well-Known Member
So, what that diagram is showing me, and tell me if I'm wrong, the vents need to be on the same side, one high one low? Then the heat source should be on the opposite side, correct?
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blakewilson
Not so new Member
I think there are many various ways of doing it, the main thing is one up high and one down low it all depends on where windows are situated in your house. The low side should be facing the window IMO. I put my vents on opposite sides and it is working really well. My enclosure keeps a steady temp within .4 of a degree
mad_at_arms
Very Well-Known Member
The configuration and size of your vents will depend on whether you are trying to increase ambient air temp as well as a basking spot, hold humidity etc.
B
Bluetongue1
Guest
Buffcoat,
Mad-at-arms and Blakewilson (although I do not agree with the window comment – plenty of herp rooms do not have one) have got it right.
What the diagram is showing is the flow of air as a result of convection. The placement of the vents will, in simple terms, affect how much air in an enclosure is exchanged in a given period of time. The diagram shows how to get the maximum amount of air exchanged. Minimum would be both vents on the hot side.
Say you wanted to have a section with high humidity, you wouldn’t want that air to be constantly exchanged. By putting both vents at the hot end, most of the air in the cool end stays put and you can build up the humidity there.
Say you have a carpet enclosure and you want warm air in the top section because that’s where it likes to hang out a lot. Set up the vents as per the diagram, except the top vent would be positioned only 2/3 to 3/4 of the full height. This would result in a layer of warm air being trapped in the top section of the enclosure. As it cools off it is constantly being replaced by the rising warm air.
The thermodynamics of enclosures is not simple to dissect and explain. It involves the size, shape, construction material, surrounds and positioning of an enclosure. It also involves the type of heating, the wattage thereof, the position and how long it runs and if controlled by a thermostat. It is also influenced by the position, size and nature of vents plus any incidental openings, such as sliding door gaps, which allow airflow in or out.
Thank goodness, so long as we have a few basics in place, the temperatures can be fine tuned by playing with the wattage of heating elements and using a thermostat.
Blue
Mad-at-arms and Blakewilson (although I do not agree with the window comment – plenty of herp rooms do not have one) have got it right.
What the diagram is showing is the flow of air as a result of convection. The placement of the vents will, in simple terms, affect how much air in an enclosure is exchanged in a given period of time. The diagram shows how to get the maximum amount of air exchanged. Minimum would be both vents on the hot side.
Say you wanted to have a section with high humidity, you wouldn’t want that air to be constantly exchanged. By putting both vents at the hot end, most of the air in the cool end stays put and you can build up the humidity there.
Say you have a carpet enclosure and you want warm air in the top section because that’s where it likes to hang out a lot. Set up the vents as per the diagram, except the top vent would be positioned only 2/3 to 3/4 of the full height. This would result in a layer of warm air being trapped in the top section of the enclosure. As it cools off it is constantly being replaced by the rising warm air.
The thermodynamics of enclosures is not simple to dissect and explain. It involves the size, shape, construction material, surrounds and positioning of an enclosure. It also involves the type of heating, the wattage thereof, the position and how long it runs and if controlled by a thermostat. It is also influenced by the position, size and nature of vents plus any incidental openings, such as sliding door gaps, which allow airflow in or out.
Thank goodness, so long as we have a few basics in place, the temperatures can be fine tuned by playing with the wattage of heating elements and using a thermostat.
Blue
Last edited by a moderator:
buffcoat
Well-Known Member
Thank you Blue! I watch the Big Bang Theory. You explained that like Leonard would to Penny. /highfive
Seriously though, thank you. I'll be building an enclosure that will need higher humidity soon. That explanation helped tons. Thank you.
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Seriously though, thank you. I'll be building an enclosure that will need higher humidity soon. That explanation helped tons. Thank you.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
B
Bluetongue1
Guest
That's good to hear Buffcoat (my many years in the classroom werenot wasted).
You will find that with a top and bottom vent and some bottom heating, it really is very easy to get good ventilation and the size of the vents donot have to be very big. Due to designs that were inefficient at ventilating, there has been a tendency to over-play its importance. So you have had people suggest all sorts of things. For example, you can do the same using a computer fan - buy why go to all the extra effort if you do not have to? You can get good ventilation having a wire grid at the entire top of an enclosure. But it will usually require a higher wattage of heater and it becomes difficult yo maintain a high level of humidity, dependening on where you are etc. An understanding if convection currents should make life simpler and easier in achieving the conditions you want in an enclosure.
Good luck. And feel free to PM me if you ever have a question you think I might be able to answer.
Cheers,
Blue
You will find that with a top and bottom vent and some bottom heating, it really is very easy to get good ventilation and the size of the vents donot have to be very big. Due to designs that were inefficient at ventilating, there has been a tendency to over-play its importance. So you have had people suggest all sorts of things. For example, you can do the same using a computer fan - buy why go to all the extra effort if you do not have to? You can get good ventilation having a wire grid at the entire top of an enclosure. But it will usually require a higher wattage of heater and it becomes difficult yo maintain a high level of humidity, dependening on where you are etc. An understanding if convection currents should make life simpler and easier in achieving the conditions you want in an enclosure.
Good luck. And feel free to PM me if you ever have a question you think I might be able to answer.
Cheers,
Blue
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