Angry Carpet Python

[faceofluna]

My brother's carpet python (male, ~1 year old) cannot be held. He lunges and bites. Whenever anyone opens the glass of the enclosure, or even looks too closely at him, he rears up. He's had him since he was about 6 months old and has never been able to handle him.
Any advice?

 

[souldoubt]

We need to know a little more about the husbandry:

What size food is it eating, how often? - is there a noticeable bulge after feeding?
Does it have hides in the enclosure?
Is the enclosure in a high traffic area of the house?
What are the temps at the hot and cold end?

All that kind of stuff

 

[longqi]

It is scared

Snakes only bite through food or fear

In this case it is most definitely fear

Basically all you have to do is teach the snake to trust you
As soon as it trusts you it will not be scared and will not bite

 

[faceofluna]

From what I know, it's a small mouse weekly. You can tell where the food is, but it's not a gigantic bulge.
He has rocks and potted plants that he hides under/in.
The snake is in a studio apartment, so I guess it's in a high traffic area as the place is only one room. But there's also only my brother living there.
Not sure on the temps. I vaguely remember it being in the high 20's when I checked once, but I might be wrong.

How can he get it to trust him? I dont think he's too keen to touch it at this stage after all the bites.

 

[Khagan]

Sounds like its food is too small and temps are too low if that was the hot end.

 

[souldoubt]

The temperature for carpet pythons should be 35 at the hot end and about 25ish at the cool end to give the snake a temperature gradient to move between. Since it does sound like its in a high traffic area I would try to place as many hiding spots in there as possible so that it has ample places to hide when its feeling threatened. Some snakes respond better to high traffic areas than others so that could definitely be a source of its insecurity.

To get it to respond better to handling I would put it in a pillowcase and just sit in on his lap when hes watching tv or doing something else that doesnt require much movement, eventually he should be able to sit with it in his lap without a pillowcase and eventually handling. Familiarising a snake with your scent helps because that snake stops associating you with being a threat (in my opinion). Although some snakes dont calm and never respond well to handling.

I agree with Khagan that its probably time to increase its food size

 

[Schnecke]

Could he maybe try upgrading to a weaner rat or something even more substantial? Once a week sounds ok from what I've read.

What kind of carpet is it? A coastal? (Many people who say carpet mean a Coastal - just wanting to clarify that) as it will have an impact on what the best temps are for the python... 28-35 hot spot seems to be the norm (Cooler for Diamonds, middle for Jungles and Coastals and warmer for Bredli etc I believe)

EDIT: Above poster beat me to most of that

 

[souldoubt]

haha Sorry Schnecke! didn't mean to steal your thunder

 

[faceofluna]

Yeah I have no idea what sort of carpet python it is. I just googled pictures and it looks like a Coastal though.
The temperature I really have no idea about. The thermometer I read was at the bottom back of the enclosure, but like I said, I may have got the wrong temp.
I like the idea of the pillowcase. I will suggest that to him.
Thanks so much for everyone's advice. I hate the thought of him giving up on this gorgeous snake.

 

[Schnecke]

thermometer and thermostat must read the hottest part of the enclosure. Either below a basking globe or almost sitting on top of a heat mat.

 

[xxMelissaxx]

thermometer and thermostat must read the hottest part of the enclosure. Either below a basking globe or almost sitting on top of a heat mat.

Not always, I prefer mine placed somewhere in the middle..

 

[mysnakesau]

I don't reckon its food related - although upsizing can be good for his health. To rear and strike like that is because he is scared. What is his enclosure made of and how big is it? If their area feels too big for them they will feel vulnerable moving about. They don't know that there are no predators in there, and to see faces coming up to the glass to check him out would not make it easier for him trying to settle down. Try imagine the world through his eyes, and imagine what you might think if eyes and a mouth the size of yours came too close to you. You'd probably crap yourself. In his case, he is striking trying to defend himself.

Get his temperatures working right, and perhaps use a hook to get him out rather than leaning in at him. Learn what actions you are making that startles him and do your best to avoid those movements - touching him suddenly or unawares, moving too quickly for him, and putting him too close to your face are just some things to work towards changing. And maybe get him out when he's cooler. He'll be less active and should be easier to handle. IF he can get use to this, getting him out when he's warm or cool will be no issue.

thermometer and thermostat must read the hottest part of the enclosure. Either below a basking globe or almost sitting on top of a heat mat.

I'm with Melissa on this one. Yeah, you want the probe at his warmest basking spot, but below a light can cause a false reading from the thermostat as the probe will heat up hotter quicker than down at his basking spot. I had that issue with my water dragons, the light kept going on and off too much and their basking spot was barely warm. It was because I had the probe too close to the light. SO I moved the probe down lower, closer to their basking rock, and that settled things much better.

 

[nico77]

I find the best way ( for me ) to calm a snake down is to get it out of the enclosure on a hook and let it come of the hook onto your arm or hand , once its there use your other hand to keep its attention ( dont wave it around just hold it far enough away to not get bitten ) , most of the time they will watch the hand that its not on and realize that you are safe and dont want to hurt them . Slow and steady is the main thing with taming a snake if you move fast or nervously you will scare the snake more .
I have found with a few of my adults that were real bitey , that after they were put in high traffic areas they get used to it and handle better than when they were in low traffic areas .
This is just what has worked for me , so i hope it helps your brother be able to handle his snake , lol that last line sounds wrong

goodluck

Nico

 

[Bandit05]

I just got a Darwin Python who at 10 months had never been handled, I also put him in a bag but gently handled him all over including the head area, as he couldnt see anything he didnt bite and it didnt stress him, after 5 mins I got him out and he was perfect to handle, this may have to be repeated a few times and only works on scared snakes not mean tempered ones

 

[longqi]

The bag is an excellent idea especially if you use the bag to gently lift it out of its viv too
The first few times it will strike at the bag
Dont worry about it as it will only hit the bag
It wont hit you
It lets the snake take its own time about how it wants to be handled
After a while it will poke its head out of the bag and look around
Dont try to touch it with bare hands
Let it explore you rather than you explore it
When it feels there is no threat it will slowly check you out
This may takes several days
Dont force it to do anything
Just let it become comfortable

Most of our snakes are wild caught and we use this method exclusively
Works like a dream
Neither staff or customers get bitten and everyone who drops in comments on how calm our snakes are