James_Scott
Well-Known Member
Thanks Ewan,
The whole urinating thing I find interesting. Did you get any caudal luring at any stage?
The whole urinating thing I find interesting. Did you get any caudal luring at any stage?
Breeding Trials of BHP (Het for Axanthic) 2010
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You are right Jay84. Many people seem anxious about the behaviours they might experience from their pythons when they are paired together for the first time. Even though I had no success last season and even if nothing comes of it this season I have still learnt a lot.
this is my first year but My male is 18 month old and 3.5kg and my girl is 3.5 years old and 5kg and i put them together for a week a fortnight ago and had no matings just some aligning. the girl was keen as but the male not so much but he did a lot of following her around and they did coil up together all the time other than to heat up during the day.
In brissy the lowest temp i have recorded in my snake room is 1 night at 17 degrees most are staying above 21 degrees( i believe we are getting a cold snap later in the week). i was told to leave till june and try again after some more cold nights but the way it is going up here i doubt we are going to have many night near the temps wokka described. i have been monitoring the temps around mt isa which is close to dajarra where mine are from and it is getting to 12-14.
So i guess we will all just have to compare notes in a couple months and see who had a win.
And glad to see James someone else as anal as i am at recording every detail....
In brissy the lowest temp i have recorded in my snake room is 1 night at 17 degrees most are staying above 21 degrees( i believe we are getting a cold snap later in the week). i was told to leave till june and try again after some more cold nights but the way it is going up here i doubt we are going to have many night near the temps wokka described. i have been monitoring the temps around mt isa which is close to dajarra where mine are from and it is getting to 12-14.
So i guess we will all just have to compare notes in a couple months and see who had a win.
And glad to see James someone else as anal as i am at recording every detail....
W
wokka
Guest
I dont pair them until mid june and by then I hope to have had say three 24 hour days ( not just nights) at 12-15c.
James_Scott
Well-Known Member
My two are currently mating under the paper and are both still leaving small amounts of secretion from time to time around the enclosure. I suspect my two are too young to breed but it has been a great education in watching their interaction. I will know what to look for in years to come. Thanks for the support to all that have provided it and for the extra information. I wish there was more out there.
Don't know if this will assist but I found it the other week on a US website so dates will coincide with Northern hemisphere:-
"Breeding Blackheads
As stated earlier, Blackheads occupy some pretty variable habitats. For most of their natural range, they experience fairly dramatic climactic changes from season to season. The goal is to mimic the transition of long, warm summer days into the cooler, shorter days of fall and winter. This is simply accomplished using appliance timers on the cage heat and light sources. Summertime cages have 24-hour basking availability and 16 hours of daylight. At the onset of cycling, usually mid-November, the basking spot is plugged into the lighting timer and the timer is gradually reduced along with the night room temperature. By January, the Blackheads are experiencing 8-hour days and long, cool nights of about 65-68 degrees.
Males will begin getting restless early during this cycling period and will start to impatiently cruise their cages looking for their mate. We introduce pairs after the snakes are several weeks into the cycling regime. Courtship is often immediate with copulation quickly following as the female lifts her tail in the air and gapes her cloaca. The male remains with the female courting and breeding until ovulation, at which time he is returned to his cage for some well-earned rest.
Occasionally, a male may seem to have no interest in breeding the female. To initiate courtship and copulation a second male can be brought in to promote combat. A good tussle between the boys often makes all the difference. Combating males are then separated and the intended male can be re-introduced to the waiting female with a renewal of breeding vigor. Attempts at rotating a single breeding male to several females in one season has had limited success for many breeders. Blackhead males seem to “imprint” with the female they were first introduced to and too much shuffling around can result in total breeding failure.
As breeding and courtship continue through the cycling season, the female will begin to show signs of follicular swelling. The swelling will be noticed slightly below the mid-body point. This thickening is frequently mistaken for ovulation causing keepers to prematurely separate the pair only to have the female re-absorb her follicles. Once the follicles are aligned within the body, the swelling subsides a bit. At this point, males catch their second wind and copulations resume. These are the matings that seem to matter most
.
Females will typically go on to ovulate from mid February to mid March. An ovulating Blackhead is completely unmistakable, swelling to almost inconceivable proportions. This massive swelling lasts 24 to 36 hours and is a sure sign that the female is gravid.
Once the female has ovulated, it is time to return the cage parameters to their normal conditions. Ovulation to egg deposition is generally 60 days and during this time females bask extensively, often in an extremely inverted position. It is not unusual to see a female completely inverted, head to tail. Females typically deposit 7 to 10 eggs although exceptional clutches have numbered up to 20 eggs. In nature, the female will incubate her eggs by surrounding them, shivering to generate heat".
"Breeding Blackheads
As stated earlier, Blackheads occupy some pretty variable habitats. For most of their natural range, they experience fairly dramatic climactic changes from season to season. The goal is to mimic the transition of long, warm summer days into the cooler, shorter days of fall and winter. This is simply accomplished using appliance timers on the cage heat and light sources. Summertime cages have 24-hour basking availability and 16 hours of daylight. At the onset of cycling, usually mid-November, the basking spot is plugged into the lighting timer and the timer is gradually reduced along with the night room temperature. By January, the Blackheads are experiencing 8-hour days and long, cool nights of about 65-68 degrees.
Males will begin getting restless early during this cycling period and will start to impatiently cruise their cages looking for their mate. We introduce pairs after the snakes are several weeks into the cycling regime. Courtship is often immediate with copulation quickly following as the female lifts her tail in the air and gapes her cloaca. The male remains with the female courting and breeding until ovulation, at which time he is returned to his cage for some well-earned rest.
Occasionally, a male may seem to have no interest in breeding the female. To initiate courtship and copulation a second male can be brought in to promote combat. A good tussle between the boys often makes all the difference. Combating males are then separated and the intended male can be re-introduced to the waiting female with a renewal of breeding vigor. Attempts at rotating a single breeding male to several females in one season has had limited success for many breeders. Blackhead males seem to “imprint” with the female they were first introduced to and too much shuffling around can result in total breeding failure.
As breeding and courtship continue through the cycling season, the female will begin to show signs of follicular swelling. The swelling will be noticed slightly below the mid-body point. This thickening is frequently mistaken for ovulation causing keepers to prematurely separate the pair only to have the female re-absorb her follicles. Once the follicles are aligned within the body, the swelling subsides a bit. At this point, males catch their second wind and copulations resume. These are the matings that seem to matter most
.
Females will typically go on to ovulate from mid February to mid March. An ovulating Blackhead is completely unmistakable, swelling to almost inconceivable proportions. This massive swelling lasts 24 to 36 hours and is a sure sign that the female is gravid.
Once the female has ovulated, it is time to return the cage parameters to their normal conditions. Ovulation to egg deposition is generally 60 days and during this time females bask extensively, often in an extremely inverted position. It is not unusual to see a female completely inverted, head to tail. Females typically deposit 7 to 10 eggs although exceptional clutches have numbered up to 20 eggs. In nature, the female will incubate her eggs by surrounding them, shivering to generate heat".
James_Scott
Well-Known Member
great info mojo73, I wish more aussie breeders published their finding in such detail even if it is just on a forum. We shouldn't have to look to the states for this kind of info on our own native species.
Here is the who article then, courtesy of Jim Sargeant - Split Rock Reptiles.
ps. keep posting as I have found what you have posted so far (an the responses) fascinating.
Split Rock Reptiles
Natural History
The Blackhead Python ( Aspidites melanocephalus ) has long been a fixture in the aura and mystique of Australia's outback. Blackheads, along with the better-known Woma, occupy the genus Aspidites , a group thought to be one of the most ancient of all pythons. Both members of this genus are widely considered primitive pythons. This is mainly due to their lack of the thermoreceptive labial pits along the upper and lower “lip” scales, traits found in every other python. Gerard Krefft officially described Aspidites melanocephalus on July 28, 1864 .
Found along the upper third of Australia, this python is at home in a variety of habitats from sandy ridges at the edge of deserts to lush sub-tropical forests and savannas. Wild Blackheads are largely fossorial and prey almost exclusively upon other cold-blooded animals. A variety of skinks, agamids, and other snakes (including highly venomous species) make up about 90% of their wild food source. The other 10% can be attributed to the rare mammal or bird. Blackheads can be considered medium-sized pythons. Adult males typically reach lengths of 6 to 8 feet and weigh 6 to 10 pounds. Females are generally larger, averaging lengths of 8 to 12 feet and weights of 10 to 20 pounds.
Blackheads are obviously named for their striking black head and neck and are sometimes referred to as “Tommy Tar Pots” by locals because they look as if their shiny heads had been freshly dipped into a pot of tar. The purpose for this hood is poorly understood, but one possibility could be camouflage for entering dark burrows with little detection. It also has been suggested that the hood is beneficial to basking in cooler temperatures. Blackheads, while cool and their reactions slow, can stay concealed but safely expose the jet-black head to the sun allowing the brain and body to gain function. The width of the head is not particularly distinct from the neck and allows them to hunt the narrow earthen burrows of goannas and skinks with ease.
In addition to the jet-black hood, Blackheads have a banded pattern across the body. These are remarkably variable pythons and there are tremendous differences in band width, spacing, and overall count from specimen to specimen. Coloration of the body is also highly varied. The base color can range from a light brown through brilliant white or banana yellow. The banding itself can even be black, brown, red, orange, or shades in between. On rare occasions, some Blackheads go through incredible color transformations during early adulthood (5 to 7 years of age). This transformation is usually rapid and involves the replacement of dark pigment in the banding and ground color with pastel shades of red, pink, and orange.
Captive Husbandry
Blackhead Pythons are probably one of the easiest pythons a keeper could have. They reach impressive sizes, are eager feeders, and are very forgiving of keeper errors. Because of their expansive and climactically varied natural range, they are highly adaptable to nearly any captive condition. This makes them generally without shedding problems and equipped to handle a wide range of temperatures. It stands to reason that a species at home in so many natural habitats should feel quite comfortable within the narrow range of extremes they will face in the captive environment.
The temperament of captive Blackheads is as variable as the snake itself, but generally very pleasant. Babies will often bluff by flattening their heads with an open-mouthed hiss. When striking, it is very rare in our experience that a Blackhead will truly bite. They lunge aggressively forward with a closed mouth in a “head-butt” attempt to scare the source of agitation. Adults are very inoffensive, rarely offering even a hint of discontentment while being handled. Larger adults make quite fantastic displays with their long, mature hood and muscular build.
Blackheads are very easily housed in captivity. Babies can be started in the commonly seen tub rack systems. All they need is a thermal gradient (80 cool end/ 90 warm end), a suitable substrate, and a water bowl and they will thrive. As they grow, our juveniles are progressively stepped through larger and larger tubs until 4 to 5 feet long. At this point they can be moved into their permanent enclosures. An enclosure with 4 feet by 2 feet of floor space is suitable for adult males. The larger females will benefit from a roomy 6 feet by 2 or 2 ½ feet of floor area. Adults should also be given a wider thermal gradient than offered to juveniles. A basking spot of up to 95 degrees and a cool end temperature down to 80 degrees is ideal. Adult Blackheads greatly appreciate top entry hide boxes, giving the sense of a subterranean burrow.
There are many acceptable substrates for these adaptable pythons. Avoid things like pine and cedar shavings due to the oils they contain. Newsprint works great for raising babies. Aspen, CareFresh, and paper (newsprint or cage liners) can be used for adults. Substrates that have small debris mixed in such as cypress mulch aren't recommended for Aspidites .
Feeding Blackheads is one of the great joys of ownership for keepers. They process their food quickly and efficiently and grow at a tremendous rate. Young Blackheads can easily be raised to adult size in 2 ½ to 3 years. It is hard to overfeed growing Blackheads but mature specimens must be prevented from becoming obese. This can be accomplished by offering multiple smaller rats as opposed to feeding single large meals. A good feeding schedule for juveniles is a meal every 5 to 7 days. Adults should be fed medium rats every 2 to 3 weeks for maintenance with pre-breeding females being fed every 10 days. There are no problems or dietary “quirks” with this species; they rarely refuse a meal and are always looking forward to their next dining experience.
Not only do Blackheads make easy captives they are incredibly interesting as well. Although there is no way to accurately evaluate the intelligence of a snake, Blackheads seem quite astute and interested in their surroundings. They are well aware of their domain and seem very curious about the outside world. Blackheads can often be seen sitting for extended periods with their hooded neck and head at a constant 40 to 90 degree angle while their bodies are well hidden beneath the substrate. They do this particularly when outside, much like our North American Racers (Coluber constrictor) can be seen doing in the field.
Breeding Blackheads
As stated earlier, Blackheads occupy some pretty variable habitats. For most of their natural range, they experience fairly dramatic climactic changes from season to season. The goal is to mimic the transition of long, warm summer days into the cooler, shorter days of fall and winter. This is simply accomplished using appliance timers on the cage heat and light sources. Summertime cages have 24-hour basking availability and 16 hours of daylight. At the onset of cycling, usually mid-November, the basking spot is plugged into the lighting timer and the timer is gradually reduced along with the night room temperature. By January, the Blackheads are experiencing 8-hour days and long, cool nights of about 65-68 degrees.
Males will begin getting restless early during this cycling period and will start to impatiently cruise their cages looking for their mate. We introduce pairs after the snakes are several weeks into the cycling regime. Courtship is often immediate with copulation quickly following as the female lifts her tail in the air and gapes her cloaca. The male remains with the female courting and breeding until ovulation, at which time he is returned to his cage for some well-earned rest.
Occasionally, a male may seem to have no interest in breeding the female. To initiate courtship and copulation a second male can be brought in to promote combat. A good tussle between the boys often makes all the difference. Combating males are then separated and the intended male can be re-introduced to the waiting female with a renewal of breeding vigor. Attempts at rotating a single breeding male to several females in one season has had limited success for many breeders. Blackhead males seem to “imprint” with the female they were first introduced to and too much shuffling around can result in total breeding failure.
As breeding and courtship continue through the cycling season, the female will begin to show signs of follicular swelling. The swelling will be noticed slightly below the mid-body point. This thickening is frequently mistaken for ovulation causing keepers to prematurely separate the pair only to have the female re-absorb her follicles. Once the follicles are aligned within the body, the swelling subsides a bit. At this point, males catch their second wind and copulations resume. These are the matings that seem to matter most
.
Females will typically go on to ovulate from mid February to mid March. An ovulating Blackhead is completely unmistakable, swelling to almost inconceivable proportions. This massive swelling lasts 24 to 36 hours and is a sure sign that the female is gravid.
Once the female has ovulated, it is time to return the cage parameters to their normal conditions. Ovulation to egg deposition is generally 60 days and during this time females bask extensively, often in an extremely inverted position. It is not unusual to see a female completely inverted, head to tail. Females typically deposit 7 to 10 eggs although exceptional clutches have numbered up to 20 eggs. In nature, the female will incubate her eggs by surrounding them, shivering to generate heat.
Egg Incubation and Neonate Care
Successful artificial incubation of Blackhead eggs has challenged experienced keepers for years. Eggs placed in a sweater box on plastic egg crating, over damp perlite provides the necessary humidity without the danger of direct contact with moisture. Direct contact with moisture can send a clutch to failure quickly. Incubation temperatures should be around 88 to 89 degrees in a stable incubator. The eggs should be oxygenated frequently by opening and closing the lid while making a quick visual egg check. The eggs will pip after 62 to 65 days of incubation.
Seeing little black heads poke through the white shells is a thrilling and humbling experience as the young heirs peer out into their new world. Babies absorb a huge amount of yolk at birth and generally don't require feeding for the first 6 to 8 weeks. After this initial period, babies are offered frozen-thawed rat pinks weekly. These are usually placed in the cage and left overnight. Uneaten meals are discarded the following morning. Some babies eat voluntarily, but many will require assist feeding for several months until they are ready to feed independently. This process requires time and patience. Once feeding, the rewards of seeing a baby Blackhead taking off on their journey to adulthood are immeasurable.
ps. keep posting as I have found what you have posted so far (an the responses) fascinating.
Split Rock Reptiles
Natural History
The Blackhead Python ( Aspidites melanocephalus ) has long been a fixture in the aura and mystique of Australia's outback. Blackheads, along with the better-known Woma, occupy the genus Aspidites , a group thought to be one of the most ancient of all pythons. Both members of this genus are widely considered primitive pythons. This is mainly due to their lack of the thermoreceptive labial pits along the upper and lower “lip” scales, traits found in every other python. Gerard Krefft officially described Aspidites melanocephalus on July 28, 1864 .
Found along the upper third of Australia, this python is at home in a variety of habitats from sandy ridges at the edge of deserts to lush sub-tropical forests and savannas. Wild Blackheads are largely fossorial and prey almost exclusively upon other cold-blooded animals. A variety of skinks, agamids, and other snakes (including highly venomous species) make up about 90% of their wild food source. The other 10% can be attributed to the rare mammal or bird. Blackheads can be considered medium-sized pythons. Adult males typically reach lengths of 6 to 8 feet and weigh 6 to 10 pounds. Females are generally larger, averaging lengths of 8 to 12 feet and weights of 10 to 20 pounds.
Blackheads are obviously named for their striking black head and neck and are sometimes referred to as “Tommy Tar Pots” by locals because they look as if their shiny heads had been freshly dipped into a pot of tar. The purpose for this hood is poorly understood, but one possibility could be camouflage for entering dark burrows with little detection. It also has been suggested that the hood is beneficial to basking in cooler temperatures. Blackheads, while cool and their reactions slow, can stay concealed but safely expose the jet-black head to the sun allowing the brain and body to gain function. The width of the head is not particularly distinct from the neck and allows them to hunt the narrow earthen burrows of goannas and skinks with ease.
In addition to the jet-black hood, Blackheads have a banded pattern across the body. These are remarkably variable pythons and there are tremendous differences in band width, spacing, and overall count from specimen to specimen. Coloration of the body is also highly varied. The base color can range from a light brown through brilliant white or banana yellow. The banding itself can even be black, brown, red, orange, or shades in between. On rare occasions, some Blackheads go through incredible color transformations during early adulthood (5 to 7 years of age). This transformation is usually rapid and involves the replacement of dark pigment in the banding and ground color with pastel shades of red, pink, and orange.
Captive Husbandry
Blackhead Pythons are probably one of the easiest pythons a keeper could have. They reach impressive sizes, are eager feeders, and are very forgiving of keeper errors. Because of their expansive and climactically varied natural range, they are highly adaptable to nearly any captive condition. This makes them generally without shedding problems and equipped to handle a wide range of temperatures. It stands to reason that a species at home in so many natural habitats should feel quite comfortable within the narrow range of extremes they will face in the captive environment.
The temperament of captive Blackheads is as variable as the snake itself, but generally very pleasant. Babies will often bluff by flattening their heads with an open-mouthed hiss. When striking, it is very rare in our experience that a Blackhead will truly bite. They lunge aggressively forward with a closed mouth in a “head-butt” attempt to scare the source of agitation. Adults are very inoffensive, rarely offering even a hint of discontentment while being handled. Larger adults make quite fantastic displays with their long, mature hood and muscular build.
Blackheads are very easily housed in captivity. Babies can be started in the commonly seen tub rack systems. All they need is a thermal gradient (80 cool end/ 90 warm end), a suitable substrate, and a water bowl and they will thrive. As they grow, our juveniles are progressively stepped through larger and larger tubs until 4 to 5 feet long. At this point they can be moved into their permanent enclosures. An enclosure with 4 feet by 2 feet of floor space is suitable for adult males. The larger females will benefit from a roomy 6 feet by 2 or 2 ½ feet of floor area. Adults should also be given a wider thermal gradient than offered to juveniles. A basking spot of up to 95 degrees and a cool end temperature down to 80 degrees is ideal. Adult Blackheads greatly appreciate top entry hide boxes, giving the sense of a subterranean burrow.
There are many acceptable substrates for these adaptable pythons. Avoid things like pine and cedar shavings due to the oils they contain. Newsprint works great for raising babies. Aspen, CareFresh, and paper (newsprint or cage liners) can be used for adults. Substrates that have small debris mixed in such as cypress mulch aren't recommended for Aspidites .
Feeding Blackheads is one of the great joys of ownership for keepers. They process their food quickly and efficiently and grow at a tremendous rate. Young Blackheads can easily be raised to adult size in 2 ½ to 3 years. It is hard to overfeed growing Blackheads but mature specimens must be prevented from becoming obese. This can be accomplished by offering multiple smaller rats as opposed to feeding single large meals. A good feeding schedule for juveniles is a meal every 5 to 7 days. Adults should be fed medium rats every 2 to 3 weeks for maintenance with pre-breeding females being fed every 10 days. There are no problems or dietary “quirks” with this species; they rarely refuse a meal and are always looking forward to their next dining experience.
Not only do Blackheads make easy captives they are incredibly interesting as well. Although there is no way to accurately evaluate the intelligence of a snake, Blackheads seem quite astute and interested in their surroundings. They are well aware of their domain and seem very curious about the outside world. Blackheads can often be seen sitting for extended periods with their hooded neck and head at a constant 40 to 90 degree angle while their bodies are well hidden beneath the substrate. They do this particularly when outside, much like our North American Racers (Coluber constrictor) can be seen doing in the field.
Breeding Blackheads
As stated earlier, Blackheads occupy some pretty variable habitats. For most of their natural range, they experience fairly dramatic climactic changes from season to season. The goal is to mimic the transition of long, warm summer days into the cooler, shorter days of fall and winter. This is simply accomplished using appliance timers on the cage heat and light sources. Summertime cages have 24-hour basking availability and 16 hours of daylight. At the onset of cycling, usually mid-November, the basking spot is plugged into the lighting timer and the timer is gradually reduced along with the night room temperature. By January, the Blackheads are experiencing 8-hour days and long, cool nights of about 65-68 degrees.
Males will begin getting restless early during this cycling period and will start to impatiently cruise their cages looking for their mate. We introduce pairs after the snakes are several weeks into the cycling regime. Courtship is often immediate with copulation quickly following as the female lifts her tail in the air and gapes her cloaca. The male remains with the female courting and breeding until ovulation, at which time he is returned to his cage for some well-earned rest.
Occasionally, a male may seem to have no interest in breeding the female. To initiate courtship and copulation a second male can be brought in to promote combat. A good tussle between the boys often makes all the difference. Combating males are then separated and the intended male can be re-introduced to the waiting female with a renewal of breeding vigor. Attempts at rotating a single breeding male to several females in one season has had limited success for many breeders. Blackhead males seem to “imprint” with the female they were first introduced to and too much shuffling around can result in total breeding failure.
As breeding and courtship continue through the cycling season, the female will begin to show signs of follicular swelling. The swelling will be noticed slightly below the mid-body point. This thickening is frequently mistaken for ovulation causing keepers to prematurely separate the pair only to have the female re-absorb her follicles. Once the follicles are aligned within the body, the swelling subsides a bit. At this point, males catch their second wind and copulations resume. These are the matings that seem to matter most
.
Females will typically go on to ovulate from mid February to mid March. An ovulating Blackhead is completely unmistakable, swelling to almost inconceivable proportions. This massive swelling lasts 24 to 36 hours and is a sure sign that the female is gravid.
Once the female has ovulated, it is time to return the cage parameters to their normal conditions. Ovulation to egg deposition is generally 60 days and during this time females bask extensively, often in an extremely inverted position. It is not unusual to see a female completely inverted, head to tail. Females typically deposit 7 to 10 eggs although exceptional clutches have numbered up to 20 eggs. In nature, the female will incubate her eggs by surrounding them, shivering to generate heat.
Egg Incubation and Neonate Care
Successful artificial incubation of Blackhead eggs has challenged experienced keepers for years. Eggs placed in a sweater box on plastic egg crating, over damp perlite provides the necessary humidity without the danger of direct contact with moisture. Direct contact with moisture can send a clutch to failure quickly. Incubation temperatures should be around 88 to 89 degrees in a stable incubator. The eggs should be oxygenated frequently by opening and closing the lid while making a quick visual egg check. The eggs will pip after 62 to 65 days of incubation.
Seeing little black heads poke through the white shells is a thrilling and humbling experience as the young heirs peer out into their new world. Babies absorb a huge amount of yolk at birth and generally don't require feeding for the first 6 to 8 weeks. After this initial period, babies are offered frozen-thawed rat pinks weekly. These are usually placed in the cage and left overnight. Uneaten meals are discarded the following morning. Some babies eat voluntarily, but many will require assist feeding for several months until they are ready to feed independently. This process requires time and patience. Once feeding, the rewards of seeing a baby Blackhead taking off on their journey to adulthood are immeasurable.
S
solar 17
Guest
I have used the 44 rule for approx. ten years now with great success, but it doesn't mean to say at 18 months they want breed..but l doubt it, but a couple of other points [1] where in Oz is there 40c for 8 hours [at this time of the year] theres probably someone going to flame me but imo you would be far better off with 35c where your critter would be likely to toast for a while. [2] you didn't mention over what period you have cooled you herps down [to similate the seasons].....just my experiences and queries....cheers solar 17 [Baden]
dangermouse
Not so new Member
i started introducing my bhps 3 weeks ago my male is 8 years old and is around 8 foot the female is 7 years old and around 7 foot don't know how heavy have not got scales big enough.
it is the females first time to breed this year the male has been breeding for the past 4 years
i introduced the male in the morning he curled up and stayed at the hide end of the enclosure the female was at the heat end they stated like that for 10 minets then the female approached the male and was sliding all over him and started the tail twitching and urinated.
the male then started to follow and respond to female his tale twitching over her and spuring they did this for a while under the paper and then they both went into the hide and continued.
so i left them to it
this behavior pretty well repeated every time i introduce the male.
the female is the first one to approach and start the proceedings off
temps in the room lowest was 16 c and i have a difference from room to enclosure of 5 degrees
approx
day temps 32 hot end 26 to 28 hide end
just some of my observations
it is the females first time to breed this year the male has been breeding for the past 4 years
i introduced the male in the morning he curled up and stayed at the hide end of the enclosure the female was at the heat end they stated like that for 10 minets then the female approached the male and was sliding all over him and started the tail twitching and urinated.
the male then started to follow and respond to female his tale twitching over her and spuring they did this for a while under the paper and then they both went into the hide and continued.
so i left them to it
this behavior pretty well repeated every time i introduce the male.
the female is the first one to approach and start the proceedings off
temps in the room lowest was 16 c and i have a difference from room to enclosure of 5 degrees
approx
day temps 32 hot end 26 to 28 hide end
just some of my observations
James_Scott
Well-Known Member
Bandy Andy,
you miss the purpose of this thread. I agree I am no pro and all of this is a learning experience and like all learning curves you will find that failures can teach us just as much as successes. I have read a lot on the topic and don't expect success however there isn't a lot written on the actual behaviour in detail on this process and thought we could all share our findings. We all witness things differently and when you start shooting people down you may miss out on what others have learned because they are too scared to post.
you miss the purpose of this thread. I agree I am no pro and all of this is a learning experience and like all learning curves you will find that failures can teach us just as much as successes. I have read a lot on the topic and don't expect success however there isn't a lot written on the actual behaviour in detail on this process and thought we could all share our findings. We all witness things differently and when you start shooting people down you may miss out on what others have learned because they are too scared to post.
dangermouse
Not so new Member
thanks mojo73 will let u know
James had mine together this week and saw tail twisting in the hide. my male is 18 months old and 3.5kgs girl is 2 and half and just under 5 kg and when i take my male out of the girls cage he paces his cage relentlessly. for 2 days now since i seperated them i am yet to see him in his hide he is just pacing back and forward along the glass . i have had a couple of 14 degree nights in my cages so can only hope
dangermouse
Not so new Member
how long are you leaving the male in with the female
i have red some different and been told different methods
i have red some different and been told different methods
James_Scott
Well-Known Member
I put my male in with the female for 1week and then out for one week. When he is in there they bask under the heater for most of the day and then they both lay in the hide together at night. I would be interested what temps most people are keeping the hot and at. I increased it to 40c but to be honest I am following the instruction of more experienced breeders literature but not sure if it makes complete sense to me. I understand the daytime heat is only for 8 hours but if we are replicating temps in the wild wouldn't we drop it to at least the low 30's? I would like to know more on this subject.
Fantazmic
Very Well-Known Member
hi everyone
I am an absolute newbie. I am sitting here reading this thread with great interest as Elvira my Jungle is watching me sitting on top of my monitor. She is five months old. I have a very long way to go in my knowledge and experience before i could even consider breeding and certainly i have no idea whether hubby and i will breed or not. It is threads like this where people are so honest and put themselves out there and share that really helps newbies like me learn
Great thread..many thanks...and those critics...get back in your box !!!!!!!!!!
Elizabeth
I am an absolute newbie. I am sitting here reading this thread with great interest as Elvira my Jungle is watching me sitting on top of my monitor. She is five months old. I have a very long way to go in my knowledge and experience before i could even consider breeding and certainly i have no idea whether hubby and i will breed or not. It is threads like this where people are so honest and put themselves out there and share that really helps newbies like me learn
Great thread..many thanks...and those critics...get back in your box !!!!!!!!!!
Elizabeth
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