Heat fittings and melamine edging

[reptinate]

Hey guys,

I'm getting my snakes lights/heat light fittings wired up soon. I was planning on mounting the fittings to pieces of melamine and screwing that to the roof, as that's what I've heard a lot of people say. Can I put the iron on edging around the pieces of melamine board, or will the heat from the light just make it come off? Anyone had that problem before?

Thanks

Here's what I'm using.

 

[Rogue5861]

Not sure about those mounts but this is mine, had no issues with it peeling.


Rick

 

[reptinate]

Thanks, Rick. Does the base of that one get warm? I think mine should be fine if I make the melamine a little bigger than yours. Anyone else have any problems?

 

[Rogue5861]

Ill check temps tomorrow for ya, i think it gets around 55c on the melamine.


Rick

 

[Jacknife]

No, melamine will be fine.

 

[Rogue5861]

No, melamine will be fine.

Its not the melamine he is worried about, it is the 1mm iron on edging tape that could peel off if it heated up enough.


Rick

 

[Jacknife]

Its not the melamine he is worried about, it is the 1mm iron on edging tape that could peel off if it heated up enough.


Rick

Yep I know. The melamine stripping is on the outside and I can't see how temps on the outside of the enclosure can reach +60c.

 

[Rob]

Yep I know. The melamine stripping is on the outside and I can't see how temps on the outside of the enclosure can reach +60c.

The way I read the OP he wants to attach the fitting to a (square ?) piece of melamine, then fix that to the ceiling inside the enclosure. Obviously the heat would be more intense, but will it be enough to dislodge the edging ? Trial & error, I guess.

Alternatively, instead of using melamine, use something similar like MDF and just paint it to match the melamine colour.

 

[bigjoediver]

What sort of heat source are you planning to use? CHE's give off a lot more heat than globes for instance.

 

[reptinate]

Ill check temps tomorrow for ya, i think it gets around 55c on the melamine.


Rick

Okay, thanks.

 

[reptinate]

The way I read the OP he wants to attach the fitting to a (square ?) piece of melamine, then fix that to the ceiling inside the enclosure. Obviously the heat would be more intense, but will it be enough to dislodge the edging ? Trial & error, I guess.

Alternatively, instead of using melamine, use something similar like MDF and just paint it to match the melamine colour.

Yeah, that's what I mean. Just worried if it does come off because then I'd have to replace the melamine with different wood, which means I'd have to get the electrician back out to rewire it. I'll try and test it beforehand, and go with MDF if it doesn't stay on. Would normal interior house paint be okay?

 

[reptinate]

What sort of heat source are you planning to use? CHE's give off a lot more heat than globes for instance.

Was probably going with CHE's, so I can save money on globes.

 

[Rogue5861]

Okay. Thanks.

Yep, my lamp fitting is around 55c and the melamine is around 30c. The surrounds on the globe are 105c.


Rick

 

[andynic07]

Hey guys,

I'm getting my snakes lights/heat light fittings wired up soon. I was planning on mounting the fittings to pieces of melamine and screwing that to the roof, as that's what I've heard a lot of people say. Can I put the iron on edging around the pieces of melamine board, or will the heat from the light just make it come off? Anyone had that problem before?

Thanks

Here's what I'm using.

Why are you wanting to screw it to an extra piece of wood? If you are going to put an extra piece of something between to enclosure and the light fitting I would use something that has a higher heat resistance like cement board (fibro).

 

[Rob]

Why are you wanting to screw it to an extra piece of wood?

Those particular fittings typically have a flat base, with no groove to run the cable, so your only option is to either drill a hole in the roof, or install the fitting on a "base" that has a groove routed for the cable on the opposite side. You may be able to make a suitable base out of cement board ?

 

[andynic07]

Those particular fittings typically have a flat base, with no groove to run the cable, so your only option is to either drill a hole in the roof, or install the fitting on a "base" that has a groove routed for the cable on the opposite side. You may be able to make a suitable base out of cement board ?/QUOTE]
Ah i see now thanks mate but wouldn't you need to drill a hole somewhere for the wire to come out anyway? I find that if I run the cable along the roof my snakes like to climb on it sometimes pulling more wire through the back wall.

 

[Rob]

Ah i see now thanks mate but wouldn't you need to drill a hole somewhere for the wire to come out anyway?

Yes, it is usually drilled on the back wall as close to the ceiling as possible (you want it this way so that your animal can't "hook" onto it). The advantage of this over a hole in the roof is that there is no unsightly cable sticking out the top, as it is hidden at the back. It is a much better option for bank tanks too, otherwise you would have the cable running on the floor of the top tank.

I find that if I run the cable along the roof my snakes like to climb on it sometimes pulling more wire through the back wall.

All my tanks are wired this way and I've never had an issue. The cable is held flush to the ceiling by the light cage, then the exit hole and then at the back it is fixed in place with nail clips. There is absolutely minimal movement of the cables inside the tank, and certainly not something a snake could move.

 

[andynic07]

Yes, it is usually drilled on the back wall as close to the ceiling as possible (you want it this way so that your animal can't "hook" onto it). The advantage of this over a hole in the roof is that there is no unsightly cable sticking out the top, as it is hidden at the back. It is a much better option for bank tanks too, otherwise you would have the cable running on the floor of the top tank.




All my tanks are wired this way and I've never had an issue. The cable is held flush to the ceiling by the light cage, then the exit hole and then at the back it is fixed in place with nail clips. There is absolutely minimal movement of the cables inside the tank, and certainly not something a snake could move.

Cheers mate, although I have thought of the nail clips and should be doing that as an electrician I have not bought any for mine yet as I have not really seen the harm apart from it being a little unsightly until I pull it through again. It has only happened with my woma and only happens once every few months.

 

[reptinate]

Tested the edging by heating it to 60c and it was fine. Don't think I'll have a problem. Is there a minimum distance I should install the heat light from the walls? Is 10 - 15cms enough?

 

[Snowman]

Those particular fittings typically have a flat base, with no groove to run the cable, so your only option is to either drill a hole in the roof, or install the fitting on a "base" that has a groove routed for the cable on the opposite side. You may be able to make a suitable base out of cement board ?

I do the same as this only I don't make the whole thing a circle. I just use a square/rectangle, but same thing with the hole in the middle and routed out to the edge.