RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Inc Pics
By far the easiest way to go is to use a good qualtity dimming or pulse stat and heat cord. No wiring required so if anything does ever go wrong (touch wood) you have not done any illegal wiring. There is also an all in one unit made for incubating chook eggs that you can get in some stock places I believe,or one of those ceramic and stat all in ones would work too. I ran a fan in mine, but it's not really necesary if you only have one tub of eggs or if you have a couple of tubs that require slightly diferent temps. Without a fan, your top shelf will be warmer than the bottom one. If you are somewhere cool, I'd run a 12V fan 24/7, the stat will allow for the heat it's producing as the heat is constant. If you are somewhere where the room temp is often over 30C, I probably would not run a fan. I did not use a perspex viewing window and will not when I build my next one. I open the tubs to check them every few days anyway, so cannot see the point.
There is no need to put the stat in the tubs, in fact this can do more harm than good. As long as you monitor the temp in the tubs, you will be fine. The theory goes something like this.... tempis 30.5C in the incubator, and therefore the tubs. You check the tubs, dropping the temp to 27C in the incubator, and 28C in the tub. Thermostat kicks in more heat to warm the tub up, but due to the poor heat conduction of plastic, the incubator gets up to 34C before the tub gets to 30.5C again. The tub thens continues to warm up, even though the stat has cut out again, allowing the incubator to drop back to 27C......
Using a dummy tub works better, but still causes more variance than just running your probe into the bator.
