Power save globes opinion

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ratsnakeroger

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Hi all as our reptile collections are increasing and the electricity bills are as well I'm just wondering if anyone uses incandescent power save globes to cut costs and if they work effectively I have heard that they give of uv light which is unsiutable for pythons but its great for lizards is this true
all opinions welcome
cheers Roger
 
How many lights do you run & how much has it increased your power bill by?
Just interested as i haven't received a bill since i got a few herps a month ago & am looking at getting more in the future
Rob
:eek:
 
I have used compact fluorescents in the past, but only for lighting purposes, not for heating. I currently use spotlights to create basking spots. Didn't bother considering the UV as I don't think they produce very much. But I could be wrong on that count.

:p

Hix
 
Good for a light sorce but useless as a heat sorce.
 
One of the reason they are power save globes is that globe don't generate to much heat. Normal globes waste about 70% of energy creating heat instead only light.
 
OK they don't create much heat therefore no good for basking spots but what about the uv benifets are they an alternative to buying uv batterns for lizards or even snakes as these can be anywhere up to $60 whereas 1 power save globe may only cost $10
 
ratsnakeroger said:
OK they don't create much heat therefore no good for basking spots but what about the uv benifets are they an alternative to buying uv batterns for lizards or even snakes as these can be anywhere up to $60 whereas 1 power save globe may only cost $10

Ratsnakeroger,

I will test one for UVB output and let you know, but my guess is that they won't produce any viable amounts beneficial to reptiles health and wellbeing.

Cheers Neil
 
Bunnings sell a compact UV flouresent (Black light) which has a warning that it emits UV. I the right situation I would be tempted to try one in an enclosure. I doubt however that they would be as effective as the Black light tubes from the Herp Shop or would work out anywhere near as cheap as a source of usable UV.

Hix said:
I have used compact fluorescents in the past, but only for lighting purposes, not for heating. I currently use spotlights to create basking spots. Didn't bother considering the UV as I don't think they produce very much. But I could be wrong on that count.

:p

Hix

--
Herp Shop - http://www.herpshop.com.au
hs_CompleteChondro_thumb.jpg

January 2006 Herp Shop Special
Order your copy of the
** Hot off the press **
"The More Complete Chondro"
during January 2006 and receive a bonus free Oz Herp Thermometer and Oz Herp Hygrometer with each copy.
These neat little units normally sell for $6 each or $10 the pair.
hs_OzHerpTherHygro_thumb.jpg
 
i know downlights throw some uv off and can get quite hot. usually around $20 bucks with light and tranny, the only trick is you have to remove the glass cover to let the uv through
 
I have a solarmeter which reads the viable amount of UVB, if anyones interested i can find out how much one would cost sent to Aus, but i should'nt imagine much change out of $300.00. :shock:
But atleast now i really know how naff flouresent reptile tubes are !
 
Sorry to take the post a little of track, but how efficient are blacklights in providing full spectrum UV for lizards, could they be used as the only source for all UV requirements (with minimal sun light) ?
 
A couple of years ago B.Munday and G.Fyfe did some work at the Alice Springs Desert park into UVs - the only 'downlight' they looked at was the GE MR16 75watt bulb. The one with a 15 degrees spot had a good UVA/UVB rating compared to other light sources (1600/800 microwatts/cm2 at 500mm). The glass cover was removed. The 25 degree beam was only 500/400.

They may have done some further research since then.

:p

Hix
 
I discussed with Greg Fyfe the possiblity of publishing 's UV paper as a care sheet on the Herp Shop web site some time ago. In the end we did not go ahead because his suggestion of removing the face glass from the globe had been questioned. The glass plate is not there to filter out UV and only does this to a limited extent anyway.

With normal incandescent globes the bulb is filled with a near vacuum and if the globe is to break the glass tends to implode. With halogens on the other hand they are filled with a gas under preasure. If the halogen globe breaks it explodes sending glass everywhere. Remembering that halogen globes function at high temperature (they have to to work properly - another reason whey the glass cover plate is installed) this makes them more likely to fail in a spectacular way and makes them more dangerous when they do fail. I have had a couple fail with the cover plates on and you end up with millions of tiny specks of glass inside the cover.

That said, before I was aware of this I did try removing the covers and they come off surprisingly easy but I was using them for geckos (low wattage only) and behind heavy duty fly wire. I don't think they get much extra UV but in this set up I have not had problems... yet.

The main finding of Fyfe's paper is that the most ecconomical source of UV comes from the NEC black light flourecent tubes such as available from the Herp Shop (and other places). They were shown to produce greater amounts of useable UV than many of the tubes sold specifically for use with reptiles at a fraction of the cost.


--
Herp Shop - http://www.herpshop.com.au
hs_CompleteChondro_thumb.jpg

January 2006 Herp Shop Special
Order your copy of the
** Hot off the press **
"The More Complete Chondro"
during January 2006 and receive a bonus free Oz Herp Thermometer and Oz Herp Hygrometer with each copy.
These neat little units normally sell for $6 each or $10 the pair.
hs_OzHerpTherHygro_thumb.jpg
 
Hi Guys,
I think many of your questions about lights and meters may be answered by the site: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/index.htm

As regards compact globes I'm not sure about the UVB component of standard ones. It would be nice if someone with a UVB meter could find out.
Bob
 
I have had a solarmeter for a while now, and find it quite useful.
I didn't get any change from $380 all up once imported, duties etc.

I have been discussing the UV from downlights with the Guru's on a few UV sites, and bascially, most produce no real useable amounts of UVB with or without the glass removed. The other problem is that the glass is there to protect and filter, alot of the down lights have dangerous UVC, which can be dangerous to the retinas of reptiles, UVC is not something any animal on earth is naturally exposed to as it is filtered out by the ozone layer. There is also a risk that when the filters are removed tha the elements can explode and rain glass down onto the animals below, they can happen if for example a bit of water is sprayed onto the element. There is also a risk of thermal burns due to the incrediably hot temps that are reached.
Many of these things have not been mentioned in previous articles condoning the use of downlights, my advice is to steer clear.
Unfortunately, people seeking a cheap source of UVB/UVA will be disappointed, you need to buy the proper tubes or bulbs designed for the job.

Cheers
Neil
 
Bugger!

I wanted to use dichroics in my next cages. Bunnings have some that don't need an electrician to wire up.

:(

Hix
 
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