Rough Problems

[Murtletheturle]

Hey
I got a Rough Scaled Python about 2 months ago and it still isn't eating. I have tried reheating the prey, tried rats, mice, everything
Any advice would help
Cheers

 

[JM1982]

Try 'braining' the mouse (put a pin through its skull and squeeze some 'juice' out)
The added scent will normally incite a feeding response.

PS: remove the pin

 

[sara_sabian]

Have you tried quail?

When are you trying to feed it?

 

[Viking_Python]

I had a fussy feeding Albino Darwin Hatchie. Things to try include: Feeding at night or leaving the fuzzy in the click clack overnight for the snake to find. Braining like JM1982 recommended. My Darwin took food after I downsized from Fuzzy mice to Pink mice to start up the feeding process ( even though the hatchling could easily take the fuzzies ). I also monitored the temps to ensure that the warm size was up towards the 30-34 degree range. One of my albino eats weekly but never wants food handed to him and always takes it when I leave it at the entrance to his hide during the night. I find my other Albino usually doesn't take food if she has been handled before a feed. Good luck.

 

[jesus]

How old is it what are ya temps and size of enclosure are you offering a hide are you handling it

 

[Murtletheturle]

It is only about 5 months old and mah temps are 28 - 30 degrees celsius there is a hide in his enclosure and no i'm not handling it until it eats again, the enclosure is a 10 litre click clack

 

[JM1982]

When you say 28-30 are you using a heat mat or is that just ambient temp?

 

[Pythoninfinite]

I have a pair of Roughies which have been a bit fussy from time to time, but I just don't worry about them. If the temps are OK, they'll eat in good time. I do know, however, that they find quail pretty hard to pass up, so you might like to try it on those.

Jamie

 

[JM1982]

How's it going, any updates?

 

[benjamind2010]

I have the same problem with my female, I've had her almost a month...even so my instincts are telling me this is going to be a tough one to handle. She handles fine, my male is a bit skittish but is a very good feeder, and I very rarely handle them, I think I've only handled each of them once since I got that and that was nearly a month ago.

It doesn't really matter what you do, I think it all comes down to the snake. You might want to call the breeder and ask if you can return them for an exchange for one that is a better feeder. It's either that or you can struggle with this one. It's the initial feeding response of a snake that tells me what the snake's personality is - in truth if it's a shy animal and easily stressed or cannot handle stress it may never eat again. By stress, I mean moving from one location to another. That can easily kill a snake. I know it's possible, as I have experienced it myself.

 

[Grogshla]

feed when its dark, nice warm prey and you might have to stir the snake up a bit to get it to strike ie bob the rat on its head.

 

[benjamind2010]

Well today was a real cracker of a day. A while back, after I made that post, I decided to try the warming trick. At first I thought this wasn't going to work as the rodent would cool down too quickly and return to room temperature within a few seconds, but I tried anyway and got a real surprise. She was underneath her hiding spot, as usual. I usually just leave the rodent to thaw on a bench and then offer it once it's soft. But this time I defrosted into a cup of very warm water, let it sit for 5 minutes, and then when it was still very warm I gently vibrated it against her neck, and within about 30 seconds she was completely wrapped around the rodent, jaws and all. I had no idea they had such a strong preference for warm prey items, but I guess that because they have warm prey items in the wild this would make perfect sense.

I used to assume that they will just take thawed rodents, regardless of whether the rodent is warm or not...but I was wrong. I'm going to be offering warm prey from now on. I am beginning to think this is critical to an RSP's feeding response.

 

[Grogshla]

yep warm is good. It also helps digestion.

 

[Trimeresurus]

I think you'll find most snakes with heat pits will prefer warm over cold items.

 

[ronhalling]

Not many cold mammals getting around (unless you count my ex wife) what is it us herpers try to do with our enclosures ?? we try to make them as close to it's natural habitat as possible, same with their food items, if it has a pulse it will be around 36-38 deg C so it is only natural you will have to get the food item nicely warmed up for your RSP to take it willingly. ..............................Ron

 

[Cadjockey]

I tried my first feed of the new arrival (Roughy) on Friday. He was out on top of hide and I offered warmed fuzzy mouse but guess he is still a bit stressed from trip. Struck out at the mouse a few times but was aggression/fear strike. Left mouse in enclosure overnight but not touched next morning.How long should I leave him to settle before trying again? Last fed on the 20th Aug so not too worried yet. Got spoilt with our Spotty who is the biggest guts for food and has been since day one :shock:

 

[Pythoninfinite]

As I said in an earlier post, Roughies can be inconsistent feeders, but it's nothing to worry about. One of my pair hasn't eaten for about 4 months atm, but it will eat when it's ready. That's just the way they are. They do have a great liking for quail though. And yes, heat pits = preference for warm prey, although the short amount of time a warmed animal stays warm would have no effect on digestion.

Jamie

 

[jbest]

I got a hot tip from someone the other day. Take a cracked egg mix it up. Warm up your food item and dip it in the egg. The guy who told me had been struggling with a hatchy for some time and first go with this and it did the trick he said.